Solarforce Switch problems - erratic when screwed down

14 posts / 0 new
Last post
RWS34
Offline
Last seen: 6 months 2 weeks ago
Joined: 09/29/2013 - 21:48
Posts: 46
Solarforce Switch problems - erratic when screwed down

I rely heavily on Solarforce P60 hosts, particularly the L2P. The first one I bought 15 months ago is solid and trouble free.

I recently bought another complete L2P host, plus 2 additional/spare reverse click tailstand caps, for a total of 4 reverse click tailcaps owned.

On all 3 of my new tailcaps, the light will erratically cut out when the tailcap is screwed all the way in, if I unscrew the tailcap to relieve some pressure, the switch then works fine…no dimming, no dropouts. Its as if too much tension on the spring is causing some sort of odd behavior and shorting with the switch. Help! What’s going on?

Batteries are 18650s, either Orbtronic 3100, or Panasonic NCR18650B.

Default Username
Offline
Last seen: 6 years 3 months ago
Joined: 07/14/2012 - 17:54
Posts: 387
Location: Ontario, Canada

If you look inside the tailcap, you should see a threaded aluminum retaining ring that holds the switch in place. Try tightening the retaining ring with a sturdy pair of tweezers or some circlip pliers and see if that helps.

chops728
Offline
Last seen: 3 hours 29 min ago
Joined: 08/30/2014 - 16:00
Posts: 1931
Location: Swampland,La

Check the retaining ring inside the tail cap—could be loose and when you dog down the tail cap it’s pushing the switch away from the retaining ring—Snap ring pliers work best but needle nose pliers work to
Wow we must of been replying at close to the same time with same answer

RWS34
Offline
Last seen: 6 months 2 weeks ago
Joined: 09/29/2013 - 21:48
Posts: 46

I check those right off the bat on all my lights, a loose retaining ring is not the issue in this case.

bushwhacked
bushwhacked's picture
Offline
Last seen: 7 years 2 months ago
Joined: 11/22/2012 - 20:18
Posts: 537
Location: NovaScotia, Canada

What kind of dropin are you using.

Edit: try taking apart the tailcap assembly (clicky boot etc) and see if there’s a bad connection somewhere. Missing solder or solder breaks. Maybe the rubber boot has too big of a nub on the inside causing it to “half click”

P60dropins.com (just a redirect for now)

RWS34
Offline
Last seen: 6 months 2 weeks ago
Joined: 09/29/2013 - 21:48
Posts: 46

I have 3 drop ins that I’ve rotated and experimented with. 2 came from International Outdoor Store. First is XM-L2 T6 3C which is wonderful as far as brightness and tint, second is XP-L U5 7A3 which I hate…its far too yellow, and dim. The third drop in is a single mode Cree XP-G R5 from Solarforce, and its not too bad for a lower drain, less floody, general utility role…but the tint is still a bit on the blue side for my tastes.

Rufusbduck
Rufusbduck's picture
Offline
Last seen: 5 months 12 hours ago
Joined: 04/04/2012 - 15:34
Posts: 10401
Location: Golden state

Maybe the problems at the other end. Bad driver ground or reflector shorts to emitter pos when under pressure.

Three Tanna leaves to give him life, nine to give him movement. But what if he eats the whole bag?

Scott

Kodachrome40
Kodachrome40's picture
Offline
Last seen: 4 years 5 months ago
Joined: 12/04/2013 - 14:34
Posts: 853

I’ve had the same issue. In my case it was the drop-in spring. It wasn’t making proper contact. A bit of sandpaper action and all is fine. Smile

Cereal_killer
Cereal_killer's picture
Offline
Last seen: 2 years 9 months ago
Joined: 07/22/2013 - 13:10
Posts: 4005
Location: Ohio

I’ve had a rash of bad luck with switches themselves recently, all due to the nub on the boot being slightly to tall (I’ve also been replacing all my SW boot’s so it’s a parts incompatibility issue) holding the plunger just ever so slightly depressed. When that happens I just cut about 1mm off the nub and all’s well again.

 RIP  SPC Joey Riley, KIA 11/24/14. Now I am become death, the destroyer of worlds.

ri chevy
Offline
Last seen: 1 year 7 months ago
Joined: 11/26/2011 - 20:50
Posts: 782
Location: Ocean State

You may also want to consider replacing the switches with a Mc Clicky switch. THey seem to have a better feel, and are a little more reliable. Or even a Tofty 10A switch.

Dimbo The Blinky
Dimbo The Blinky's picture
Offline
Last seen: 7 months 3 weeks ago
Joined: 11/27/2012 - 09:46
Posts: 1626
Location: The Indigo State, USA, Earth

RWS34 wrote:
On all 3 of my new tailcaps, the light will erratically cut out when the tailcap is screwed all the way in, if I unscrew the tailcap to relieve some pressure, the switch then works fine…no dimming, no dropouts. Its as if too much tension on the spring is causing some sort of odd behavior and shorting with the switch.
My two cents:

(Just re: my P60s) Just about every tailcap I own has a different stack of goodies inside, even though most of the switches-on-boards are ~similar. I have to be very careful to keep the things like the plastic lump that fits around the switch body, the customary washer(s) (metal and plastic), etc. together with the tailcap they came in. Rubber boots aren’t even fully identical, as some have the lump over the switch button, some don’t.

Here’s what I think is happening: When you tighten the tailcap’s retaining ring, you’re actually tightening against some of the stuff between the switch board and the rubber boot. Then when you tighten the tailcap, the end of the Body mashes on the retaining ring, before it’s all the way screwed down. At that point, all is well electro-mechanically, but when you crank it down either the retaining ring, the circuit board or the “stuffing” above/around the switch get distorted somehow. Possibly the friction between the body and the retaining ring is enough to get a little more ‘turn’ in the ring, which would cause erratic behavior.

You can always assemble one without the rubber boot in place, the better to examine the “nether regions” of the tailcap in situ. It may even be that you’ll need to remove “packing” to get the switch’s circuit board “deeper” in the tailcap…

“There is no darkness but ignorance.”

Rufusbduck
Rufusbduck's picture
Offline
Last seen: 5 months 12 hours ago
Joined: 04/04/2012 - 15:34
Posts: 10401
Location: Golden state

With the switch ring snugged down all the stack height issues should be eliminated. Either it works or it doesn’t. Loosening the tail cap should not affect the button or any of the tail cap stack. With all 3 switches behaving the same it points a connection issue at the other end, ground spring, solder ground, or the very common reflector short. If the springs aren’t getting weak from over heating due to a short I would look to the ground possibilities. That or you aren’t snugging the retainer all the way and tightening the tail cap does in fact mess with switch stack as the others have said.

Three Tanna leaves to give him life, nine to give him movement. But what if he eats the whole bag?

Scott

ri chevy
Offline
Last seen: 1 year 7 months ago
Joined: 11/26/2011 - 20:50
Posts: 782
Location: Ocean State

Excellent point Scott! Maybe even try wrapping the drop in with some copper tape or aluminum foil to see if it solves the issue.

Windsurf
Windsurf's picture
Offline
Last seen: 9 months 2 weeks ago
Joined: 08/22/2014 - 15:27
Posts: 343
Location: Boston, MA

RWS34 wrote:
I rely heavily on Solarforce P60 hosts, particularly the L2P. The first one I bought 15 months ago is solid and trouble free.

I recently bought another complete L2P host, plus 2 additional/spare reverse click tailstand caps, for a total of 4 reverse click tailcaps owned.

On all 3 of my new tailcaps, the light will erratically cut out when the tailcap is screwed all the way in, if I unscrew the tailcap to relieve some pressure, the switch then works fine…no dimming, no dropouts. Its as if too much tension on the spring is causing some sort of odd behavior and shorting with the switch. Help! What’s going on?

Batteries are 18650s, either Orbtronic 3100, or Panasonic NCR18650B.

Did you resolve this problem? How? Didyou try using the end cap from the other Solarforce to see if you had the same problem or if the problem disappeared?