Dry 3 x XM-L T4 7C. Coming Soon : T5 Neutral White

Very happy with my Dry 3 x XM-L T4 7C.

LED is the warm white but with a wee bit of pinkish tint. So it is not the Solarforce P4, DX P3 P60 or Xeno E03 T4 7B. So it is not thhhaattttt yellow, but healthy yellow with more reddish pink component in it. CRI seems high enouh (i am a pro-photographer)....it makes skin tones look nice and healthy type (I do it all the time while I DI my wedding photos)

2 guys mentioned that they got 4 and 4.6A 3 x 18650 with their DD T6 1A. I am very happy to say that my copy of T4 7C is 2.8A at the tail. Not sure what is the exact current since bro HKJ technically said that we will never get accuate current measurements at low voltage even with expensive Flukes, but i guess since this is 12V it should be decently ok (anyway it is a good enough for relative comparisons with my other lights).

So 2.8A for 3 x 18650 Solarforce V2 2400s protected, 3 good cells fully charged at 12.63V unloaded (will try to get loaded voltage soon, that should be pretty accurate). No issue of fitting in XTAR 18700s I think, plenty of space.

Thanks to Ric of cnqualitygoods for bringing this in at a decent price. It is not low, but it is supposed to be low-numbers run from OEM.

http://www.cnqualitygoods.com/goods.php?id=1177

Oh I have been looking forward to someone recieving this! Any photos you can post of it disassembled? How is the heatsinking? Output? Output compared to the skyray and other 3x XM-L lights? Thanks for the info 2100!:slight_smile:

Seems like the warm ver is the one to get. 4+ amps is suicide like the 980L's.

I received Dry 3 x XM-L T4 7C.

Mine is 2.51A at tailcap when using LG unprotected 2600mAh. The beam profile is clean and shows not only very bright but wide beam.

I guess T6 1A give more and more bright beam. It's a monster. Wink

It's well made torch and heatsinking is OK to me. There are thermal taping & pads inside, but I applied thermal compound to

around the circuit. I heard DRY T6 1A cool white is much more brighter than Sky ray 3 XM-L.

Great another light I have sneak into the house when my girlfriend isn't looking. I was really hoping this thing was going to be garbage I guess I should just get it over with and order one before they change it on revision 2 and wreck it.

980L would be very good if you live at Yakutsk, - 50 deg C in winter. Smile

But my copy is actually decent. At about 3.3-3.4A with good cells (you know the drill), it is getting about 10% more ceiling reflected lux than U80 at 2.5A like 1-2 mins. Though it does heat up fast. 3A long term usage is really reserved for 2-cell 60mm lights with fins + a bit of breeze @ 30 deg C or no breeze at 10 deg C.

Warm white is definitely unique.

1 NW version coming up.....releasing this week. Will do up a detailed review on lux measurements etc then.

I opened up the driver, it is not the same one as the Sky RAy. But the good news is, it is exactly the same version 0 of the Sky Ray. Flat black aluminum backing for the LED stars to Fujik on, central screw (same size as Sky Ray). If you live in sub zero climates, confirm can gun with each emitter at 2.8-3.0A. (!!!) This would be close to TK70 emitter lumens performance. There is additional thermal foam betwen LED and driver for protection.

The hotspot is somewhat slightly smaller than the Sky Ray.

NW = 5A3 4000-4200k.

http://flashlight-wiki.com/images/f/f6/Ansiwhite.jpg

So it would be a bit on the healthy red NW. I like....

There will be new UI with NW and WW. High (3A), Med, Low, Strobe. CW is 4A Hi Lo Strobe. This explains it.

Size comparison. This thing is solid.

Is this T4 7C as bright as the Sky Ray 3xT6 ?

Bro, so how's your SR 3xT6 status with Manafont, fixed it?

Most definitely this is much brighter with much more current to the emitters. In fact if you are very sure that you are going to be operating in sub-zero temps, you would reap the full benefits of the 3A driver. There is a lot of meat left for XM-L at 3A, just that you need to actively pull the heat away and just having a big block of aluminum isn't enough. Anyway there is always medium power.

NW might be better if you want lumens.

Today I returned the SR 3xT6 to China, after mailing by Jim.

He asked me to ship with trackingnumber, but this is rediculous expensive. From Belgium to China = almost 55 euro!!!

So I took the risk to ship it on the cheapest way, without trackingnumber and this cost me 20Euro!

Don't know how the Chinese webstores can ship at such a low amount.

I had also to retain the receipt from my Post office.

Hope that they refund also the shipping fee.

I hope also that tomorrow my DRY wil arrive

I wouldn't have even bothered... I would have bought another and used the other for mods.

Anybody's got a broken one in the U.S., I'll take it for the emitters.

Rich

Hehe I'm from Belgium too, being tossed between the sky ray and now the DRY. Shipping form CN is how much? because 55$ 80+$ will be a huge difference so it has to be worth it.

Could this light been driven with trustfire flames?

Is it easy to hold (I have rather small hands :p)

How is throw/spill compare to sky ray

Difference except for color between cool and warm white?

greetings!

The CW is $76, not $80. MF uses unregistered Air Mail, and Air Mail from CNQ site I see here is $9. Go for EMS or DHL, $13 and $16. Register an account and you'll see it in Checkout.

I'd advise not driving with Trustfire Flames for these 2 and 3 cell lights which take in quite a high current at a certain point. Mine always stays somewhat balanced during discharge but not as close as I'd love to, as in not within 0.01V. Understand that these are not exactly your regular flashlights and a degree of discipline is needed for both runtime and cell handling (same goes for lasers). But it's good, that's why it's called a hobby.

PS. Both lights, this Dry and other Sky Ray/Trustfire/Fandyfire variants, they need to be fed good cells. For the SR/TF/FF, it is regulated in the sense that if your cells voltage sag it would pull more current. The higher current triggers the cell PCB protection. For this it takes 3A or 4A give or take. If your cell is unable to provide that juice, it also triggers the protection. A UF-980L triggers some of my cells PCB protection but not the Solarforce/Xtar/TF Flames. Anyway XTAR 18700 fits, very tight fit but it is ok and fits somewhat tightly in the tube which is good, absolutely no rattle.

In short, this is a product which is really a pocket rocket. It fits in the pocket, and basically the same thing as those customs. You need to know what are the operational characteristics. Eg 9A 1-cell LiMn https://budgetlightforum.com/t/-/2853 In fact this DRY 3 XM-L packs more battery power (runtime etc)....and the CW is eating 4A.

But nothing else has WW/CW at this point.

Mmm more expensive lights, more expensive cells ... :)

Could you link me to a site where they sell cheap yet good batteries? CW can only use unprot batteries unless they are really good like AW there is stated, but 15$ a battery is way over my budget ...

Is using TF flames = suicide :p?

greetings!

Search the group buy for XTAR 18700 2600mAh. It is just usd13.50 shipped for a pair. Basically they are Sanyo 2600s. Not sure if it is still valid, the end date is 31st July.

You need to be very careful with the TF Flames, probably do a reading before discharging and another reading after discharging to see if they are balanced.

EDIT: store removed

You mean these batteries?

Yes that is correct, all details in the group buy thread.