Flashlight as motorcycle highbeam assist

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ImA4Wheelr
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Yeah, the MCU Pin used for PWM would be determined by the firmware. 

I didn't see the other 3 legs of that component due to shadow in picture.  I'm not familiar with that marking though.  Could you clean up the driver with alcohol and then take a picture of each side with light behind it.  It would make the traces stand out.

It looks like the top right Pin of the MCU (In 2nd picture) maybe the PWM out.  The PWM out should go into one of the Pins of the Buck Controller and then a different Pin on the Buck Controller should feed the Gate Pin to your MOSFET.  The Gate Pin of the FET should be the right pin when your looking at it with the big tap pointing up.

EDIT:  I take that back about the top right pin of the MCU.  I think I see a trace for that Pin also going to that Capacitor.  Maybe that Pin is Vcc.  Maybe better pictures will help answer some questions.

Which Pin does the data sheet say is Vcc?  Is Ground the bottom right Pin per the data sheet?

tjeret
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Ok will try to clean those board
quality of soldering is mess plus they did not clean flux at all :Sp

Yes, those pin 1 MCU is V+ and pin 8 connected to GND
I have a scope, should i try to probe at medium or low mode to see PWM ?

This is the output with 4.2A
Great, now its very close to CX5 HID projector highbeam with “BIGGER” hotspot Smile

ImA4Wheelr
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Oh, that looks very nice.  The tint looks much better at the current.  Did you change the camera settings?  You should be proud of that light.  Really has a smooth beam profile.  Congrats Smile

I think your idea for using the scope is very good.  I wish I knew how to use one.  Check all the pins (except Vcc and Gnd) on the MCU and also on the 6 pin "buck controller".

FrickelFreak
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Congrats on the successful mod, beam looks awesome! Beer

I’m sure you’ll figure out the 1-mode conversion too.

tjeret
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Thank you Smile

This is what i got from my scope
Upper picture = Output MCU
Lower pcture = Mosfet gate input

Low Mode

Medium Mode

High Mode

Yes, you right ImA4Wheelr
Those MCU only “pull up” output to approx 5V (scope at DC coupled)
So if i jumper those pin to V+ (lets says i’m feed it with 15V supply), its will be fine ?
p.s
Camera setting still same, ISO 400 ; F/3.5; 1/4s IIRC

FrickelFreak
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I would not Jumper it directly to the input voltage of the driver, that might damage something…

Just look for the VCC-Pin of the µC (should be ~5V constantly) and jumper that to the Controller’s PWM output/Mosfet Gate.

ImA4Wheelr
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^ I agree with FF.  You definitely don't want to feed 15v.  You want the Vcc for the MCU which should be in the 3 to 5 volt range.  Nice work.  I need to learn how to use a scope.

tjeret
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A = Output from MCU
B = Output to Gate Mosfet

Ok so from Pin 1 to pin 4 jumper right Smile

You should learn, its pretty simple. Operate an Android phone is more difficult to me :bigsmile:

p.s
I have try to put 18V input at this driver
test about 5 minutes, yes everything is hot especially those diode + mosfet but run just fine

ImA4Wheelr
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You got it bro.  Jumper MCU pad for Pin 1 to the MCU pad for Pin 4.  Keep or pull the MCU, which ever you prefer.   Nice mod work tjeret.  Great DIY attitude and initiative.  Glad you joined BLF.

Any plans to increase current further?

EDIT: Wonder why Pin4 and Pin 5 have a jumper.  Trying to look at the trace for Pin 5, but can't make it out.  Are you counting the pins like this?:

4 3 2 1

5 6 7 8

tjeret
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Ok will try to remove those MCU
Those pin 4 and 5 already have a jumper as default configuration
i don’t know if output MCU can be parallel
yes i count like datasheet

Look like i’m good with those 4.2A
modification to heatsink for higher current will be PIT* Smile

p.s
I accidentally pull a trigger for K40M couple week ago after testing the output Solarforce K3
because i thought this one will not be a good “thrower”
Hopefully it will arrive soon and will try to crank current little further

ImA4Wheelr
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tjeret wrote:

Ok will try to remove those MCU

No need to remove on my behalf.  It should be fine with it.  If you do remove, I suggest a cheap hot air gun (not a hair drier.  I think  you know that but other readers may not).  If you do, please try to get a back lit trace picture.

tjeret wrote:

Those pin 4 and 5 already have a jumper as default configuration
i don’t know if output MCU can be parallel

Me either.  A good trace picture of each side would help.

tjeret wrote:

Look like i’m good with those 4.2A
modification to heatsink for higher current will be PIT* Smile

Sounds good.  I know where you are coming from.

tjeret wrote:

I accidentally pull a trigger for K40M couple week ago . . .

ah, huh, accidentally.  I've accidentally pressed the "buy" button and accidentally input the payment information too.  clumsy fingers.  Wink

 

 

tjeret
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This is what it looks like. Yep now it’s only have single mode

Buehehe, actually i only bough it because that’s 34% off Oops
I’m hoping that K40M is good enough so i don’t have to mod anymore Smile

Thank you everyone (ImA4Wheelr & FrickelFreak) that have guide me to complete this Beer
now still thinking about best mounting point in my bike

ImA4Wheelr
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Nice looking driver mod there.  So the pad for Pin 5 goes to nothing.  My guess is that Pin 5 on the MCU was the actual PWM out.  So they had to bridge it to Pad 4 to feed the buck controller.

It was a real pleasure collaborating with you and FrickelFreak on these mods.  You should be proud of your accomplishments on this light.  You demonstrate some fine craftsmanship.  Looking forward to seeing what else you come up with in the future.

Best wishes on mounting that baby on your bike.

tjeret
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Add some of my previous test with original driver (Data taken after 30 sec warm up)

DC Supply with 12,6V CV setting with kelvin connection
DC Load with 6.0V CV setting, i did not use kelvin (i think cable already short)

Modded version, its start with 4.22A and after 5 minutes it down to 4.10A
Thank you BLF Forum Beer Beer Beer

FrickelFreak
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Wow, those are great results!
Have fun with this light on your bike!

(I’m a little jealous of you though, because of your equipment Wink that’s nice stuff you got there.)

tjeret
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And this big bro came to me yesterday
will try to update output compare to K3 Smile

MustSimon
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That is a very nice mod, bro Cool

tjeret
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Thanks

This is output that i take last night

They almost have same “hotspot area”
But this K40M eat my K3

Looks like I change my mind.
Will try to push current little more, K40M is my new target Wink

tjeret
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I put back two 0R27, now current around 5.7A
with 1 minutes operating those tiny driver is very hot
Unfortunately still can not reach those K40M :_(
I’ll stop with 5.7A Smile

ImA4Wheelr
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Congrats again tjeret.  Pushing the poor little driver hard now.

I'm not aware of any good buck drivers that get much over 5 amps that are under 26mm diameter.  There are a couple great minds on BLF working on diy solutions for that but it seems to be quite a challenge.

That driver of yours looks quite small for 5.7 amps.  What diameter is it?

tjeret
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This one have around 19mm diameter
Ok, what about linear regulator like parallel 7135 ? better than buck regulator ?
No problem, i can DIY a little bit Smile

ImA4Wheelr
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Someone that knows better will chime in.  I think you have done well to pull 5.7 amps out to that driver.  So that Solarforce K3 driver seems to be a pretty decent driver, potentially.  But, maybe its the other mods you did to it that is enabling it to handle 5.7 amps.  Either way, good on you Smile

Hmmmm, 7135 does not seem to be a good option.  They would have to shed tons of voltage (heat). 

How large a diameter driver can you fit in that host?  Or, do you mind moving the driver external to the head?

tjeret
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That a maximal diameter (20 mm inside host)
I thinking on external driver too, but i’m aware about high current
since i can not replace those “thin” cable to Emitter :~
any thought?

ImA4Wheelr
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There are probably all kinds of option if you can go external.  The HX-1175ba is one, but there may be others that are just as good or better.  I've driven it to 11 amps to the emitter with 4S Li-ion without any problems (talking MT-G2).  The large diode on it is only rated for 10 amps though.

tjeret
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Da*n, thats a very nice one driver Steve
I like no component at the bottom PCB. Tempted to buy it
but only can purchase in 5 pcs ?

p.s
Do you have a recommendation about “simple” buck IC Controller ?
i see those “six leg” is also driving fet
I don’t mind to made my own driver, since i have some of Low rds Mosfet and Schottky diode around Smile

ImA4Wheelr
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That same vendor sells a quantity of 2 HX-1175b1's for like $22USD on his own website here:

http://www.topledlight.com/led-driver-input-3v18v-for-phlatlight-luminus...

The most knowledgeable member I know of here regarding buck controllers is wight.  He introduced me to the QX9920 buck controller which appears to be the most widely used one out there in budget buck drivers.  It seems to be the same buck controller used in the HX-1175b.  It is different than the one in your K3 driver due to obvious pin out difference.

That would be so cool if you built your own driver.  I will be watching with great interest.  You're getting in to territory that is well beyond my electronics knowledge base and I would love to learn from it.

tjeret
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Thanks for the link Smile
Wow thats a very cheap buck controller
Yes indeed IC that used in K3 have different pinout as you said and different feedback voltage around 195mV
And i don’t like its freq, only 17.6kHz which seems to “low for most buck controller” i know

Well, the only drawback is make PCB layout
But I will try, it seems fun Wink
But don’t expect a small factor.
I will use TO-247 package for Mosfet and Diode 0:)

tjeret
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Since i’m not good with PCB, i go with traditional way
Take 6 hours and still not complete yet Tired

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