Yeah, if the blink could just be a quick 25% reduction in output (slight PWM drop then back up) rather than a full off/on flash that would be alot better
Nice! Though I do prefer the old way of soldering star than the updated 2 group version. The way it flashes once on low in three mode, always distracting.
I agree. I strongly dislike the blink/flash – it is startling.
and i have old 7135 verison ,
i also have LD25 with hidden strobe .
i think LD25 is better,no pwm
Nice! Though I do prefer the old way of soldering star than the updated 2 group version. The way it flashes once on low in three mode, always distracting.
I agree. I strongly dislike the blink/flash – it is startling.
and i have old 7135 verison ,
i also have LD25 with hidden strobe .
i think LD25 is better,no pwm
I always buy these: fasttech.com-8-amc7135-2-group-25-modes. Bought a ton, usually 10 or 5 per order. I don't care bout the modes because I reprogram them all. Is there any difference besides the modes? Maybe these are still the old style? I got a bunch in stock now and am using them less often.
Actually my last buys were these: fasttech.com-6-amc7135-2-group-35-modes, simply because I have so many 7135's to use up. Was buying them in qty 100 from FT at the great price.
Actually I just noticed the two pics of the 2 group and 4 group mode drivers is exactly the same - no difference at all . So if you re-program, it's just throwing money away - not much money though...
I always buy these: fasttech.com-8-amc7135-2-group-25-modes. Bought a ton, usually 10 or 5 per order. I don’t care bout the modes because I reprogram them all. Is there any difference besides the modes? Maybe these are still the old style? I got a bunch in stock now and am using them less often.
Actually my last buys were these: fasttech.com-6-amc7135-2-group-35-modes, simply because I have so many 7135’s to use up. Was buying them in qty 100 from FT at the great price.
Actually I just noticed the two pics of the 2 group and 4 group mode drivers is exactly the same – no difference at all . So if you re-program, it’s just throwing money away – not much money though…
I don’t think you paid close attention to the SKU. 1186301 is exactly what we are talking about!
It seems ordering the four group version should force them to send one with stars.
That’s a good point Fritz.
For my own part I’m actually not interested in paying a higher price just for the stars, but other people might be. As far as I’m concerned the OTC can be placed on top of the driver and the most recent version of my A17PZL Nanjg-replacement driver has a place for sending your <1mm switch+ wire through.
You can always stick the cap directly on the MCU pin, but it is a pain compared to having its own pad. I did this last summer with a bunch of AK47a drivers that I needed to be 100% single sided, and did it with the first revisions of the BLF17DD driver, but it really stinks to get it in place and is even worse if you have to reflash the MCU.
I agree RMM – when I saw others do that it looked easy, but when I went to do it myself I found that it was a real pain. I guess a person determined to do it that way could use a little radial-lead cap to make the job much easier? http://www.ebay.com/itm/3-x-1uF-35V-Radial-Capacitor-Tantalum-Free-Shipp...
If there is room I agree that a leaded capacitor would probably be easier. I actually bought some leaded components a while ago because in some custom configurations they are easier to use and more reliable than SMD components air wired together or soldered in crazy positions on the board.
Well, those should be fine here. Just triple check polarity and de-rate the marked voltage 33%. They are notorious for exploding and flaming, plus they often fail shorted, so I always think of how fun they can be in some places. Personally, when possible, I avoid them.
Well, those should be fine here. Just triple check polarity and de-rate the marked voltage 33%. They are notorious for exploding, plus they often fail shorted, so I always think of how fun they can be in some places. Personally, when possible, I avoid them. If a ceramic cap fits use that instead.
Ceramics use to be more limited in uF or larger in size for an equal uF but they’ve improved, less need for tantalum now. And no polarity to care about.
Sorry for the OT. Simon, you say that your version of the LD25 is 3000mA, 700mA and 80mA yet your aliexpress store says modes are 100%, 40%(1200mA) and 6% (180mA). Please update your store information.
—
My gratitude to those who are willing and able to help others (in whatever way you can)! Being human is more than just existing for yourself.
Sorry for the OT. Simon, you say that your version of the LD25 is 3000mA, 700mA and 80mA yet your aliexpress store says modes are 100%, 40%(1200mA) and 6% (180mA). Please update your store information.
Did you ever carry/make a Nanjg 7135 driver that had moonlight low (I think it was 5mA mode) as well as H-M-L? I am trying to find a driver like this but can only find old discussions of it.
Did you ever carry/make a Nanjg 7135 driver that had moonlight low (I think it was 5mA mode) as well as H-M-L? I am trying to find a driver like this but can only find old discussions of it.
Location: A light beam away from the missus in the land of Aus.
Chloe wrote:
convoy-flashlight wrote:
sorry ,there is no star version LD25
Thanks for clarifying! Did you ever carry/make a Nanjg 7135 driver that had moonlight low (I think it was 5mA mode) as well as H-M-L? I am trying to find a driver like this but can only find old discussions of it.
I'm not sure if these are low enough for you but are four modes. Supposedly .03 amp on low.
Thanks for clarifying! Did you ever carry/make a Nanjg 7135 driver that had moonlight low (I think it was 5mA mode) as well as H-M-L? I am trying to find a driver like this but can only find old discussions of it.
I’m not sure if these are low enough for you but are four modes. Supposedly .03 amp on low.
:_( I notice that Ric did not bother posting 17mm pictures, both listings show the 20mm version. Do you have these? If so will you measure the spring for me? Mostly I’m interested in what diameter it is where it sits on the PCB.
Yeah, if the blink could just be a quick 25% reduction in output (slight PWM drop then back up) rather than a full off/on flash that would be alot better
LD-25 http://www.aliexpress.com/item/Free-Shipping-5pcs-LD-25-XML-T5-T6-dedicated-single-lithium-drive-circuit/1972673860.html
Flomotion
no ,not this version ,the mode of LD25 in my stock is different ,
it’s Lo (80mA) > Mid (700mA) > Hi (3000mA);
Double half-press: Strobe
my aliexpress store:
http://www.aliexpress.com/store/330416
skype: simon.maomao
Okay, I agree that your product is better, sorry ….
Flomotion
Still fine, still on a break. One day I’ll catch up with you folks! previous wight catchup
list of my drivers & variants (A17DD, FET+1 stuff, WIP stuff, etc)
uh ,yes ,you are right
my aliexpress store:
http://www.aliexpress.com/store/330416
skype: simon.maomao
This LD25 or another? This one has two groups. Do you have LD25 with 4 groups/stars?
http://www.aliexpress.com/store/product/Free-shipping-LD25-Flashlight-ci...
I always buy these: fasttech.com-8-amc7135-2-group-25-modes. Bought a ton, usually 10 or 5 per order. I don't care bout the modes because I reprogram them all. Is there any difference besides the modes? Maybe these are still the old style? I got a bunch in stock now and am using them less often.
Actually my last buys were these: fasttech.com-6-amc7135-2-group-35-modes, simply because I have so many 7135's to use up. Was buying them in qty 100 from FT at the great price.
Actually I just noticed the two pics of the 2 group and 4 group mode drivers is exactly the same - no difference at all
. So if you re-program, it's just throwing money away - not much money though...
Shame that there's no more star/pad for an off-time cap. Can't go back to on-time memory anymore.
Still fine, still on a break. One day I’ll catch up with you folks! previous wight catchup
list of my drivers & variants (A17DD, FET+1 stuff, WIP stuff, etc)
Oops you're right - thought the OP was pointing to the other one for some weird reason...
Still fine, still on a break. One day I’ll catch up with you folks! previous wight catchup
list of my drivers & variants (A17DD, FET+1 stuff, WIP stuff, etc)
It seems ordering the four group version should force them to send one with stars.
Flashlight designers should look at lighthouses and pottery.
这些谁设计的手电筒应该看灯塔，以及在陶器。
For my own part I’m actually not interested in paying a higher price just for the stars, but other people might be. As far as I’m concerned the OTC can be placed on top of the driver and the most recent version of my A17PZL Nanjg-replacement driver has a place for sending your <1mm switch+ wire through.
Still fine, still on a break. One day I’ll catch up with you folks! previous wight catchup
list of my drivers & variants (A17DD, FET+1 stuff, WIP stuff, etc)
You can always stick the cap directly on the MCU pin, but it is a pain compared to having its own pad. I did this last summer with a bunch of AK47a drivers that I needed to be 100% single sided, and did it with the first revisions of the BLF17DD driver, but it really stinks to get it in place and is even worse if you have to reflash the MCU.
Mountain Electronics : batteries, Noctigon, and much more! What's new?
I agree RMM – when I saw others do that it looked easy, but when I went to do it myself I found that it was a real pain. I guess a person determined to do it that way could use a little radial-lead cap to make the job much easier? http://www.ebay.com/itm/3-x-1uF-35V-Radial-Capacitor-Tantalum-Free-Shipp...
Still fine, still on a break. One day I’ll catch up with you folks! previous wight catchup
list of my drivers & variants (A17DD, FET+1 stuff, WIP stuff, etc)
If there is room I agree that a leaded capacitor would probably be easier. I actually bought some leaded components a while ago because in some custom configurations they are easier to use and more reliable than SMD components air wired together or soldered in crazy positions on the board.
Mountain Electronics : batteries, Noctigon, and much more! What's new?
Tantalum caps are tiny party grenades.
xkcd.com/1603 Li-ion battery safety 101.
Seriously though, what exactly are you implying?
Still fine, still on a break. One day I’ll catch up with you folks! previous wight catchup
list of my drivers & variants (A17DD, FET+1 stuff, WIP stuff, etc)
Well, those should be fine here. Just triple check polarity and de-rate the marked voltage 33%. They are notorious for exploding and flaming, plus they often fail shorted, so I always think of how fun they can be in some places. Personally, when possible, I avoid them.
xkcd.com/1603 Li-ion battery safety 101.
Still fine, still on a break. One day I’ll catch up with you folks! previous wight catchup
list of my drivers & variants (A17DD, FET+1 stuff, WIP stuff, etc)
Ceramics use to be more limited in uF or larger in size for an equal uF but they’ve improved, less need for tantalum now. And no polarity to care about.
xkcd.com/1603 Li-ion battery safety 101.
Sorry for the OT. Simon, you say that your version of the LD25 is 3000mA, 700mA and 80mA yet your aliexpress store says modes are 100%, 40%(1200mA) and 6% (180mA). Please update your store information.
My gratitude to those who are willing and able to help others (in whatever way you can)! Being human is more than just existing for yourself.
sorry ,there is no star version LD25
my aliexpress store:
http://www.aliexpress.com/store/330416
skype: simon.maomao
I have two version LD25
my aliexpress store:
http://www.aliexpress.com/store/330416
skype: simon.maomao
Thanks for clarifying!
Did you ever carry/make a Nanjg 7135 driver that had moonlight low (I think it was 5mA mode) as well as H-M-L? I am trying to find a driver like this but can only find old discussions of it.
Still fine, still on a break. One day I’ll catch up with you folks! previous wight catchup
list of my drivers & variants (A17DD, FET+1 stuff, WIP stuff, etc)
I'm not sure if these are low enough for you but are four modes. Supposedly .03 amp on low.
http://www.cnqualitygoods.com/goods.php?id=2203
http://www.cnqualitygoods.com/goods.php?id=2070
djozz quotes, "it came with chinese lettering that is chinese to me".
"My man mousehole needs one too"
old4570 said "I'm not an expert , so don't suffer from any such technical restrictions".
Old-Lumens. Highly admired and cherished member of Budget Light Forum. 11.5.2011 - 20.12.16. RIP.
Still fine, still on a break. One day I’ll catch up with you folks! previous wight catchup
list of my drivers & variants (A17DD, FET+1 stuff, WIP stuff, etc)
Can do but you will have to remind me when I get home from work in 9 hours as I will forget.
djozz quotes, "it came with chinese lettering that is chinese to me".
"My man mousehole needs one too"
old4570 said "I'm not an expert , so don't suffer from any such technical restrictions".
Old-Lumens. Highly admired and cherished member of Budget Light Forum. 11.5.2011 - 20.12.16. RIP.
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