good form factor , sensibly driven will run for days

and they are rugged as hell with common batteries

looks like  a perfect mod for those less than LEDS sitting in the drawer

Well, yes... kinda. A friend of mine has a Fulton, and wanted it converted to LED. But the thing completely lacks thermal pathways (apart from the aluminium reflector, which is surrounded by plastic and therefore no help at all). My idea would have been: find someone with a lathe, have him turn a aluminium-dropin the  size of the reflector with a hole in the front for one low driven XP-G and a fitting polymer optic. But finding a 3 V driver is hard, getting the setup even remotely watertight is even harder...

So I did a cheap-ass mod that can't be considered a mod really. I just popped in one of these:

http://www.systart-webshop.de/index.php?page=shop.product_details&flypag...

It has a LED of unknown make, very strange dome that is supposed to work with all kinds of reflectors, and comes with its own 1-9V buck/boost driver. Don't know if it's thermally regulated, i tested one of these at 4.8V (4 eneloops)  and it did get quite warm...  55°C or so, but stable over 10 minutes. Light output is okay, definitely better than original, but nothing spectacular. Beam shape stays rather ugly.

Unfortunately the manufacturer is in Germany, so probably not an option for you as they don't ship overseas.

If you want I can forward you one at cost, but shipping things from Germany is rather expensive. PM me if you are interested.

Hopefully someone else has a better mod for this light, these are very cool!

EDIT: Lots and lots of typos. Stup'id figners!1

That photo brought back some memories for me! My first real flashlight, kindly provided to me by Ronald Reagan and the US Army. I loved that light.

The best move is definately the LED bulb drop-in

Here's the best for 2D lights.  Its 3W, and uses a Luxeon Rebel LED.

EDIT - Ooopps......Wrong.....its the Terralux TTS-3WP than you need

I thought I would add this here for anyone who love these lights as much as I do. This one has an aluminum HS but the ones I have made after this are copper.

This anglehead I decided to add a little more ooomph, and went with a Madmax wide open plus. The LED is the XP-G r5 mounted on a 20mm board and attatched to a piece of aluminum I found at work. I drilled out the bottom and potted the MM+ in the heatsink.

You will have to excuse the cotton on the bottom of the potted MM+. I put a small amount of a cotton ball in the anglehead to check out the beam before I attatched the reflector to the LED and some stuck to the bottom:ohgeez:, the reason for this is the crappy Loctite clear epoxy, I don’t know if I got a bad batch but it was suppose to setup in 60 mintues and even after a few days it was still tacky. I will go back to the superior Devcon clear 30 minute epoxy.

The reflector is the most excellent reflector for the XP-G. It is 41 × 31 and only requires a slight trim to the inside lip of the anlehead to fit flush in the light. I epoxied the reflector to the heatsink so that it would transfer heat to the reflector and not move around at all.

IMO, this is the ultimate reflector/LED combo for the Fulton anglehead. Now on to the pictures.

Heatsink and LED

Back of heatsink

Reflector

Notice how close the reflector mates to the emitter board for more heat dissipation to the reflector.

Epoxied the reflector to the HS with the good stuff! 5 Minute Devcon clear.:party:

This shows how the reflector sits after a little trim to the mouth of the anglehead.

Next are some reflector and body photos. Excuse the ugly plastic lens, I have some glass on the way.

I hope this will help guide some in modding this great light. Enjoy!

Nice!

Nice! Is there any way for the heat to escape out of the flashlight?

scaru wrote:

Nice! Is there any way for the heat to escape out of the flashlight?

The Madmax wide open is only pushing 700mA to the XP-G so heat is not and issue with this light. I built this about 2 years ago and it is still kicking. This light gets a lot of use with dog walking and camping. One of my favorites and still runs off of alkalines. It it so much brighter than the stock light.

The achilles hill of the Fulton anglehead is the crappy switch. It flickers sometimes and I have not fooled around with it to find a fix, maybe one day.

Beamshots plz :D?

vēer wrote:

Beamshots plz :D?

I will take some later when I get home. 2nd shifter here so it will be after midnight when I post them.

I will say that the deep reflector makes this light a thrower of sorts, but it does have some side spill.

Lately I have thought about building a triple anglehead with some glow around the optics. 8)

vēer wrote:

Beamshots plz :D?

Any light as a comparison to it you would like to see? If I have it that is.

Distance measurement will be fine, but if you have something with similar led inside and around the same power draw, then it would be very interesting to compare :)!

Good product…but maybe aluminum version will be better?

SIPIK flashlight factory wrote:

Good product…but maybe aluminum version will be better?

It would be an expensive flashlight to machine, but I would love to see it made out of metal.

I will work on some beamshots tonight as it was raining very hard last night.

Wow! I have not taken any photos since I sold my Nikon D70s. So I used my son’s crappy Samsung camera, so please excuse the lame beamshots.

I will be buying a new camera soon.

The other light that I compared the anglehead to is a SS XR-E r2. The anglehead is an XP-G r5.

XR-E

XP-G anglehead

Both lights were place on the black car on the right.

Wow, that is a tight beam!

That looks pretty nice. Good job.

scaru wrote:

Wow, that is a tight beam!

It is very tight. Like I said, it’s the best reflector I have seen for an XP-G if you want throw. It transforms the Fulton from below average to awesome!

I have added a custom glow o-ring made with IV line a v10 glow powder.

Here was a safety orange anglehead that I modded and sold. This one had the copper HS. I wish Fulton had of made these in Safety orange, unfortunately this was a chinese knockoff and the quality of the switch and belt clip show as it used screws vs. rivets.

Langcjl wrote:

That looks pretty nice. Good job.

Thanks!

I just started reading this thread, and am fascinated. I like my Fulton angle-head light, which I have put some sort of PR based LED in (I think, a Terralux 1 watt, but not sure.) It is some brighter than the original bulb, and the battery life is counted in months, but my AA MiniMag with Terralux LED out throws it, and is brighter! That’s just wrong!

Anyhow, I would like to make my Fulton better, and reading the posts about mods, I ran into a problem; I follow directions extremely well, but when it gets beyond “Glue this to that,and add this, like so, then, do that”… I tend to get lost. Reading through the instructions, I found the reflector/heat sink on DX, but Kai has sold out of the 1AA bost current PCB, and I am not sure what to replace it with, or where to get one. Any suggestions?
What does that thing do, anyhow?

Please school me: Would I run into any problems replacing the MC-E emitter the reflector is designed for with, say a Nichia 219?

Which Cree emitter would I need to provide a close to daylight color balance? I notice Nichias are rated at 4500 K, so I think about 4500-5500K would give good color differentiation and tint.

One last thing: I noticed one poster used Devcon 5 minute Epoxy to fasten the reflector to the assembly. I like the epoxy idea, but but iirc, heat will debond epoxy, and a necessary part of an assembly like that is heat transfer from the LED to the metal parts of the assembly, which I am not sure if regular Epoxy provides. Is there a better solution?

Dumb questions, I know, but any help will be appreciated. Moderator; If this is not in the right place, please move it. Thanx.

You could spend a bit of money and get one of these.

http://www.king-cart.com/cgi-bin/cart.cgi?store=elektrolumens&product=Anglelux

I wasn’t sure about starting a new thread. I came across these ‘genuine GI issue’ from a UK based shop. I don’t know if they are Fulton or not though.

flyboy wrote:

I just started reading this thread, and am fascinated. I like my Fulton angle-head light, which I have put some sort of PR based LED in (I think, a Terralux 1 watt, but not sure.) It is some brighter than the original bulb, and the battery life is counted in months, but my AA MiniMag with Terralux LED out throws it, and is brighter! That’s just wrong!

Anyhow, I would like to make my Fulton better, and reading the posts about mods, I ran into a problem; I follow directions extremely well, but when it gets beyond “Glue this to that,and add this, like so, then, do that”… I tend to get lost. Reading through the instructions, I found the reflector/heat sink on DX, but Kai has sold out of the 1AA bost current PCB, and I am not sure what to replace it with, or where to get one. Any suggestions?
What does that thing do, anyhow?

Please school me: Would I run into any problems replacing the MC-E emitter the reflector is designed for with, say a Nichia 219?

Which Cree emitter would I need to provide a close to daylight color balance? I notice Nichias are rated at 4500 K, so I think about 4500-5500K would give good color differentiation and tint.

One last thing: I noticed one poster used Devcon 5 minute Epoxy to fasten the reflector to the assembly. I like the epoxy idea, but but iirc, heat will debond epoxy, and a necessary part of an assembly like that is heat transfer from the LED to the metal parts of the assembly, which I am not sure if regular Epoxy provides. Is there a better solution?

I modded this light in 2010 and it still works today and the epoxy has never separated from the heat sink.

I would use an XPG2 from Illumination supply in 5000k which is a nice tint.

Need any other help with this you can ask me here or PM me. Good Luck!

Here is a part list to get you started. The glass lens is a couple of MM small, but the o-ring can be used to center it.

Glass lens
Reflector for XPG
Good driver for single mode with 2 batteries
Multimode driver for 2 D setup

bikenber73 wrote:

You could spend a bit of money and get one of these.

http://www.king-cart.com/cgi-bin/cart.cgi?store=elektrolumens&product=Anglelux

You can build your own light for less than that and it will be much better! Heck, I could build out someones anglehead for less than that.

Chloe wrote:

I wasn’t sure about starting a new thread. I came across these ‘genuine GI issue’ from a UK based shop. I don’t know if they are Fulton or not though.

It looks to be genuine.

Things to look for would be rivets on the switch and clip, vs screws on a knockoff. The name fulton industries MX-991u is usually in a raised letters in the circle on the top head of the angle.

Quote:

Here is a part list to get you started. The glass lens is a couple of MM small, but the o-ring can be used to center it.

Glass lens
Reflector for XPG
Good driver for single mode with 2 batteries
Multimode driver for 2 D setup

Thanks for this

Haterade wrote:

Thanks for this

No problem! Post your progress.

nitroz wrote:

It looks to be genuine.

Things to look for would be rivets on the switch and clip, vs screws on a knockoff. The name fulton industries MX-991u is usually in a raised letters in the circle on the top head of the angle.

Thank you, Nitroz!

Old type 2D cell lights are the original flashlight configuration and are still available for well under $5. D cells are a really good source of power if you don’t mind the size and weight. The problem is that they have incandescent bulbs, and therefore no attempt at cooling. A low power led replacement bulb gives a light with not much output but a very long battery life. To get something like a 1 to 3 amp led to work in one, I am thinking of filling one with oil or alcohol or glow model airplane fuel. The circulating, and possibly boiling, liquid would take the place of the missing aluminum for cooling. Two alkaline D cells supply the current and nearly the voltage of an 18650 and several times the life. Water would almost work but it hydrolyses at around 3 volts and promotes electrochemical reactions of the metal parts.
One of the incandescent bulbs I have says 0.8 amp, 2.8 volt, so this is what was expected of 2D cells a couple of decades back. It would be better not to use the conduction strip and spring, as these are made of steel. I suppose I can kludge waterproof seals with epoxy and silicone rubber cement.
I have a spare 18650 XM-L light I can use parts from. I think I can leave the pill alone and just epoxy it to the truncated reflector. The throw should come out better than my small 18650s if I get the focus right.