iPhone ready - Nanjg stripping and A17DD-SO8 building videos

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wight
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iPhone ready - Nanjg stripping and A17DD-SO8 building videos
Updated with iPhone / iPad / Google Chrome / Internet Explorer compatible videos.
Please see post #24 for the correct links.

I did some videos this evening. At first I thought I’d continue the BLF tradition of burying this info on page 7 of a semi-related thread, but then something came over me! Shocked

How to strip a Nanjg-105D for parts with a soldering iron:

http://photo.jesusthepirate.com/blf/17mm_DD-S08/v020_builds/video/strip_...

How to assemble an A17DD-SO8 with a soldering iron:

http://photo.jesusthepirate.com/blf/17mm_DD-S08/v020_builds/video/build_...

If the player doesn’t work on your device you may right click (or long touch, or CTRL+click, or whatever) and save as on these links:
http://photo.jesusthepirate.com/blf/17mm_DD-S08/v020_builds/video/strip_...
http://photo.jesusthepirate.com/blf/17mm_DD-S08/v020_builds/video/build_...

Here is the equipment list I used:
Hakko FX-888 w/ T18-D16 chisel tip
a wet sponge (hence the sizzle noises from offscreen in the video)
Kester 951 liquid flux in a syringe
3mm Goot Wick (CP-3015 via this listing?)
Radio Shack .032” 60/40 Rosin Core solder
WeiTus No. 10 stainless tweezers (130mm x 13mm) from IOS/MTN < these are my favorite tweezers.
black stainless tweezers.. maybe ESD13 or ESD14 from this VETUS set.
Automatic wire strippers of this type.

Really you don’t need all that stuff, but as you can see sometimes it makes things easier. I’d start with a cheap iron w/ a 2mm chisel tip or similar, 60/40 solder, and stainless tweezers. Anything else is gravy!

As far as techniques, mine are not always good. I won’t say that these videos show what you should do. I didn’t get around to really needing the flux, sometimes it helps tremendously.

Basic soldering advice: All of these components are pretty heat tolerant, but if you find yourself unable to make something happen, take a break from doing that thing. Eventually you can burn components by rubbing the iron on them long enough! I made some mistakes with the OTC at the end and really dumped a lot of heat into it. Ideally I would have given up for a while, then come back to it. I’d have removed it, cleaned up the area, and then soldered it in place again. Don’t start over until you can hold your finger on the component. Impatience will cause more damage than anything else.

Still fine, still on a break. One day I’ll catch up with you folks! previous wight catchup Wink
list of my drivers & variants (A17DD, FET+1 stuff, WIP stuff, etc)

Edited by: wight on 01/29/2015 - 21:14
WarHawk-AVG
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Awesome! Thanks!

Do you have a hot air reflow station yet?

Chazzy
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Great video wight! I have a couple of your 17DD boards on the way but I think it’s time for me to invest in a better soldering station.

"Whoa that's a bright light!" ... Yea I guess.

wight
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WarHawk-AVG wrote:
Awesome! Thanks!

Do you have a hot air reflow station yet?

I have a station, but I keep it in storage. I never really liked it that well. I don’t normally build or strip drivers this way. I normally use a 1500W heat gun for reflow, the Milwaukee MHT3300. While that model is no longer available, it was made by Wagner and the housing and controls of the Wagner HT3500 look identical in form/function to my Milwaukee MHT3300. http://www.homedepot.com/p/Wagner-HT3500-1500-Watt-Digital-Heat-Gun-0503...

Chazzy wrote:
Great video wight! I have a couple of your 17DD boards on the way but I think it’s time for me to invest in a better soldering station.
I think I should do another video with a basic iron, just to see how it goes. I do recommend getting a nice station. It made a big difference for me in a couple of different ways. Unfortunately the FX-888 is discontinued and the FX-888D is slightly more annoying to use as I understand it. That said, it’s not really a big deal and the FX-888D is probably the one to get IMO. (Frankly it might actually be better, despite the naysayers.)

Still fine, still on a break. One day I’ll catch up with you folks! previous wight catchup Wink
list of my drivers & variants (A17DD, FET+1 stuff, WIP stuff, etc)

MRsDNF
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I cant thank you enough wight. That was two amazing videos. It makes me want to rush out to the shed now and give it ago. Along with Hoops new thread there really is no excuse.

 

djozz quotes, "it came with chinese lettering that is chinese to me".

                      "My man mousehole needs one too"

old4570 said "I'm not an expert , so don't suffer from any such technical restrictions".

Old-Lumens. Highly admired and cherished member of Budget Light Forum. 11.5.2011 - 20.12.16. RIP.

 

DavidEF
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Great videos! Thanks for posting these!

The Cycle of Goodness: “No one prospers without rendering benefit to others”
- The YKK Philosophy

Mike C
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Thanks for the vids… You make it look so easy. I’ve found soldering with so small components extremely frustrating.

nitro
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Wight i just got my boards, and my parts few weeks ago can u post a mouser/digikey parts list please ?

AlexTG
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wight wrote:
How to strip a Nanjg-105D for parts with a soldering iron

Thanks for the video!

What temperature setting have you used for this?
Looks like a pretty hot (or remarkably regulated) iron.

cajampa
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Thanks for the video wight lot of moves i probably will try out sooner rather than later, on the second to the end i saw your
pomona test clip…… please don’t stop there Smile the flashing how to part is still a bit fuzzy to me.
It would be really nice to have some how to on that, or if i have overlooked some guide on that, here on blf please someone direct me.

I understand i need 3 parts
I asked Tom E and these where his recommendation, thanks again Tom

a Pomona test clip, i haven’t ordered that because i haven’t found any in Europe yet, if i can’t i guess i have to order it from the US.
http://www.digikey.com/product-search/en?KeyWords=501-1311-ND&WT.z_heade...

40-pin Splittable Ribbon Cable (20cm)
http://www.fasttech.com/products/1011800

ATmega/ATtiny 51 AVR ISP USBASP USB Programmer Downloader (HQ)
http://www.fasttech.com/products/1002900

Everything is very affordable about 20$ but unfortunate the 30$ shipping from digi-key to Sweden kind of makes it less so Sad

But where do i find the drivers for the usb programmer and driver firmwares and how to set up modes and tune those, that is the big question now, and again if there are already some how to’s i have missed please direct me.

DavidEF
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Cajampa, did you look at this one? http://budgetlightforum.com/node/36216

The Cycle of Goodness: “No one prospers without rendering benefit to others”
- The YKK Philosophy

cajampa
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DavidEF wrote:
Cajampa, did you look at this one? http://budgetlightforum.com/node/36216

wow Smile yes that looks exactly like something that will straighten out a lot of ?
thanks

Rufusbduck
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Nice videos. If a picture is worth a thousand words, then a video is worth the commercials, then a video is worth pixels times as many, then a video is worth more. Some different techniques to try.

Three Tanna leaves to give him life, nine to give him movement. But what if he eats the whole bag?

Scott

wight
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You’re all welcome. (And thanks for the complements folks.)

I struggled with soldering for a long time – but I don’t feel like the struggle was at all necessary to become proficient. The struggle was all because I hadn’t learned to solder correctly, it was not part of the learning process. If you find that the soldering is not as easy for you as it looks in my videos, please post about where you’re getting hung up.

For me the biggest sources of problems tended to be excessive use of force and/or applying heat for too long. IMO generally both of those problems are/were actually symptoms of either a technique or equipment problem. Nobody uses too much force or heats for too long just for the heck of it..

MRsDNF wrote:

I cant thank you enough wight. That was two amazing videos. It makes me want to rush out to the shed now and give it ago. Along with Hoops new thread there really is no excuse.

Go do it! If you want to start with something disposable then strip some of the worthless 2-amp DD drivers, you’re probably saving a pile for no good reason. (I know I am.)

Mike C wrote:
Thanks for the vids… You make it look so easy. I’ve found soldering with so small components extremely frustrating.
What aspect do you have trouble with?

nitro wrote:

Wight i just got my boards, and my parts few weeks ago can u post a mouser/digikey parts list please ?

Which boards? If you have the parts what do you need a list for!? Silly Check posts #36 & 38 in the driver thread for A17DD-SO8 parts from Digikey and Mouser. I’d go with Mouser because the shipped cost is significantly lower.

AlexTG wrote:
[snip] What temperature setting have you used for this? Looks like a pretty hot (or remarkably regulated) iron.
I’m using ~392° Celsius. I rarely adjust, check, or pay attention to the temp knob.

cajampa wrote:
Everything is very affordable about 20$ but unfortunate the 30$ shipping from digi-key to Sweden kind of makes it less so Sad
I think I’d spring for the Pomona, but I wouldn’t get it from Digikey! There should be plenty of options for European folks to pickup a Pomona 5250… I think you can keep it under $20 USD. This ebay seller for example: http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Pomona-5250-SOIC-8-pin-Testclip-test-clip-for-SOP-EEPROM-24-25-93CXX-93C46-ICSP-/121281073490 EDIT: the shipping preview price seems to be very wrong. Maybe this Italian seller instead? – http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Clip-Test-SOIC-8-pin-Cable-POMONA-5250-ORIGINALE-/271702107691?pt=LH_DefaultDomain_101&hash=item3f42b5262b

As to the flashing, DavidEF’s link is exactly where I would have sent you. Hoop drew on all the scattered BLF resources I normally refer back to, as well as probably a couple of things I missed. Wink Be very gentle with your SOIC clip, do not pull on or attempt to bend the contact pins.

Still fine, still on a break. One day I’ll catch up with you folks! previous wight catchup Wink
list of my drivers & variants (A17DD, FET+1 stuff, WIP stuff, etc)

Mike C
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wight wrote:
Mike C wrote:
Thanks for the vids… You make it look so easy. I’ve found soldering with so small components extremely frustrating.
What aspect do you have trouble with?

Mainly trying to keep the components in place. I’m probably applying too much force.
Rufusbduck
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SMD parts do seem to have a very low escape velocity.

Three Tanna leaves to give him life, nine to give him movement. But what if he eats the whole bag?

Scott

wight
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Mike C wrote:
wight wrote:
Mike C wrote:
Thanks for the vids… You make it look so easy. I’ve found soldering with so small components extremely frustrating.
What aspect do you have trouble with?

Mainly trying to keep the components in place. I’m probably applying too much force.
You’re probably right. The iron only requires gentle pressure; it’s the same for the tweezers and component. In the videos I think the only time I applied any pressure was with the solder wick, which I’m not always very good at using. I should have added flux instead of pressure. The rest of the video I’m really just placing the iron against things.

If heat isn’t moving from the iron to the target then maybe it’s time to clean and re-tin the iron or maybe add some flux to the area the joint needs to be in.

I most often lose components when they escape my tweezer death-grip. There’s no reason for that much pressure on the tweezers but I’m impatient, stubborn, and over-eager enough to have the problem regularly.

Still fine, still on a break. One day I’ll catch up with you folks! previous wight catchup Wink
list of my drivers & variants (A17DD, FET+1 stuff, WIP stuff, etc)

Angler
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Wow very nice videos. It’s most informative to see how you do this. Thanks!

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oh wight…I ordered some of that no clean liquid flux

You’re video’s made it look “too” easy Wink

chouster
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@cajampa

You could also order a pomona clip from tme.eu

cajampa
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Thanks wight for trying to find some more affordable options, but unfortunately the italian ebay sellers price would be 58$ delivered to Sweden Sad

But thanks to chouster i think we have found the cheapest price yet for the pomona test clip in the EU only 29.51$ delivered, nice now i have to check if tme have some of the driver components so i can order them at the same time, thanks again chouster you saved me 30$ Smile

So in the EU the final cost for the MCU flasher kit amounts to
Pomona test clip 29.51$ delivered
http://www.tme.eu/en/details/pom-5250/test-clips/pomona/5250/
USB programmer from fasttech $3.93
https://www.fasttech.com/products/1002900
40-pin Splittable Ribbon Cable (20cm) from fasttech $1.99
https://www.fasttech.com/products/1011800

Total = 35,42$

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I want also to build the A17DD-SO8, so from my understanding all the parts are from the nanjg 105d like the resistors, capacitor and the attiny except the FET and otc that i have to buy separately? How about the 105c, are the components the same as the 105d?

Summy
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Yeah,looking forward to getting more videos of the flashlights Smile

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johnvilla136 wrote:
I want also to build the A17DD-SO8, so from my understanding all the parts are from the nanjg 105d like the resistors, capacitor and the attiny except the FET and otc that i have to buy separately? How about the 105c, are the components the same as the 105d?
Yes 105D is the same, just a different location of the 7135’s on the spring side of the board, a different PCB layout, same components
wight
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Here are links to stream/watch the videos on a modern iPhone or iPad. They should also work on Android phones and Google Chrome. You may also right-click and save-as if preferred.
How to strip a Nanjg-105D for parts with a soldering iron. – iPad / iPhone
How to assemble an A17DD-SO8 with a soldering iron. – iPad / iPhone

Here are lower resolution links for older iPhones and/or devices which cannot play 720P. (For anyone who’s concerned about data usage these files are also much smaller.) You may also right click and save-as if you prefer.
How to strip a Nanjg-105D for parts with a soldering iron. – lowres iPhone
How to assemble an A17DD-SO8 with a soldering iron. – lowres iPhone

For Internet Explorer using the original video URLs is still best:
How to strip a Nanjg-105D for parts with a soldering iron. – Internet Explorer
How to assemble an A17DD-SO8 with a soldering iron. – Internet Explorer

Still fine, still on a break. One day I’ll catch up with you folks! previous wight catchup Wink
list of my drivers & variants (A17DD, FET+1 stuff, WIP stuff, etc)

Cereal_killer
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Dude alex, I know you don’t think you need one, you think your way is easy enough (right? I know I did for years) but get yourself a few decent work holders, I promise you it’ll make your life a hundred times easier!

I know, I know, the pieces didn’t move around much in the video’s but dude I swear to you, start using work holders (helping hands or a jewlery clamp) and you won’t believe you used to think it was easy to not use them.

I highly recommend the same for beginners too, nothing more frustrating when your new and trying to learn than your work piece rotating around on your or sliding further and further away!

 RIP  SPC Joey Riley, KIA 11/24/14. Now I am become death, the destroyer of worlds.

wight
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I have multiple work holders. I only find them of limited usefulness…

EDIT: Especially in this case. The relatively tight zoom gives a limited DoF and you’ll note that I frequently rotate the work.

Still fine, still on a break. One day I’ll catch up with you folks! previous wight catchup Wink
list of my drivers & variants (A17DD, FET+1 stuff, WIP stuff, etc)

zoom zoom
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Thanks for doing that, it's always good to watch a master in action. I obviously need to invest in a good soldering iron!

T-boon
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nice video, steady hands and very good soldering skills.
thanks.

n10sivern
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Almost makes me wanna try it…….almost Wink

Three tomatoes are walking down the street- a poppa tomato, a momma tomato, and a little baby tomato. Baby tomato starts lagging behind. Poppa tomato gets angry, goes over to the baby tomato, and smooches him… and says, Catch up.