105c driver testing?

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NeilP
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105c driver testing?

Just wondering about testing one of these boards.

I just fitted a new 105c 17mm 8 * 7135 3 amp board from James3 on the forum here. It worked fine and cycled through the default modes when out of the host.
Soldered star 4 to the earth track and assembled in to the host

It did not work.

Took it out and it still did not work, so for now have put the old OEM driver board back in . LED is still good.

Noticed a small solder bridge between Star 4 and the inner contact pad of the cap C1.

Remove solder bridge, but it still is dead.

Would shorting that cap to the star kill the driver / MCU chip?
How could I test the board apart from finding another LED to connect it to? no spare LED’s at the moment

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Second question:

Are they constant current out? so if the output is “short circuited” via a multi meter in current mode, will they output the set current and the meter read the correct amperage?

I bought some more advanced constant current driver boards on e-bay a while ago, and that was the CC setting test method. First set the CV output, then ‘short the output with an ammeter to set the constant current.

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Rufusbduck
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Pics really help with diagnostics. Sounds like you had a dead short to B+. Did the springs get hot and lose their temper? Check the resistance across the input diode, D1. It might have fried. Alternately, if it works when you bypass the diode then that’s probably it.

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Scott

NeilP
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No nothing like that , never got hot, never left it connected long enough,
it did not come on , so turned it off.

If i connect a battery to the board via an ammeter, no current flows.

Monitoring the output voltage with no LED, voltage peaks then dies to zero within half a second

photos coming

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Rufusbduck
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I suggested a bad input diode because a short from C1 to gnd would dump the short circuit current through the diode bypassing the mcu. The 7135’s don’t turn on because there’s no voltage to the 7135 Vdd pins to turn them on. Fried diode = open circuit and no power to the mcu. Check voltage from pin 8 to gnd, it should equal Vb minus a small drop across that diode. If you still have voltage at pin 8 then mcu may be toast.

Three Tanna leaves to give him life, nine to give him movement. But what if he eats the whole bag?

Scott

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I’ll be back here in an hour or so. off down the workshop to attempt to break something else…open the ‘pill heads’ on two SingFire lamps.

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NeilP
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Rufusbduck wrote:
I suggested a bad input diode because a short from C1 to gnd would dump the short circuit current through the diode bypassing the mcu. The 7135’s don’t turn on because there’s no voltage to the 7135 Vdd pins to turn them on. Fried diode = open circuit and no power to the mcu. Check voltage from pin 8 to gnd, it should equal Vb minus a small drop across that diode. If you still have voltage at pin 8 then mcu may be toast.

Can only see one diode, on the output side of the board near the red power out wire..is that the one?

Appears to be open circuit using cheap DVM diode function

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NeilP
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Battery voltage on one side of the diode …4 volt and 1.3 volt on other side of the diode and pin 8

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OK, so it looks like the diode.
??

Found a diode that works and all good….but before I put it back i the pill…it looks like the pill, although the correct diameter, the shoulder interferes with the tops of the 7135’s and touches the outer tab . The 7135’s are too close to the edge of the board really.

Pill is just a hollow tube..the LED star is not connected to a heat sink, it is just sitting on the edge of the star.

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NeilP wrote:
OK, so it looks like the diode. ?? Found a diode that works and all good....but before I put it back i the pill...it looks like the oil, although the correct diameter..the shoulder possible touches the outer tab of the 7135's ..is this an issue? the 7135's are too close to the edge of the board really
No problem, those tabs are connected to batt-minus anyway Smile
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Great, thanks.

Been back and edited my post you quoted…

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Ok, so working great, but a question

What is the diode there for ? Is it merely reverse polarity protection.
That diode produces a voltage drop of approx 0.7 volts right? So does this not impact on run time?

The MCU will be detecting a cell voltage less that diode drop. ?

What am I missing? Could I run without that diode? Need to know the power requirement of the chip I suppose.

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NeilP wrote:
Ok, so working great, but a question

What is the diode there for ? Is it merely reverse polarity protection.
That diode produces a voltage drop of approx 0.7 volts right? So does this not impact on run time?

The MCU will be detecting a cell voltage less that diode drop. ?

What am I missing? Could I run without that diode? Need to know the power requirement of the chip I suppose.

Yes you could run it without the diode, no reverse protection and the low voltage protection flashes or stepdown or whatever won’t be right, but yes…it is possible
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Neil, the 105c has been dissected 6 ways from Sunday buy members here.

Check out the 2nd picture in this link for a clear view of the traces of the board.

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FmC wrote:
Neil, the 105c has been dissected 6 ways from Sunday buy members here.

Check out the 2nd picture in this link for a clear view of the traces of the board.


Hah…that is one of the main images I use as a template for some of my designs

Comfychair is one of the drivah mastah’s here on the forum…

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Edited

 

 

WarHawk-AVG wrote:

NeilP wrote:

 

Could I run without that diode? Need to know the power requirement of the chip I suppose.

Yes you could run it without the diode, no reverse protection and the low voltage protection flashes or stepdown or whatever wion't be right, but yes...it is possible

 

Oh yes of course, the MCU is programable, so the LVC setting will have been set to take account the drop. I went and grabbed the Atmel ATtiny13 pinout and went to Dr.Jomes page about his firmware and slave board wiring. I got my head around things a bit better now.

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NeilP wrote:
WarHawk-AVG wrote:

Could I run without that diode? Need to know the power requirement of the chip I suppose.

Yes you could run it without the diode, no reverse protection and the low voltage protection flashes or stepdown or whatever won’t be right, but yes…it is possible

Oh yes of course, the MCU is programable, so the LVC setting will have been set to take account the drop.
I went and grabbed the Atmel ATtiny13 pinout and went to Dr.Jomes page about his firmware and slave board wiring. I got my head around things a bit better now.[/quote]

Look in on JohnnyC’s STAR firmware, you can tweak the level it goes into it’s low voltage mode…you would have to test it out w/o the diode set it from the stock 130 to say 120 or lower or something then compile but it is adjustable

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I’ve been looking into firmware flashing and think I’ll pass.
On the e-bike controllers the job is very easy, TX/Rx pins on the board, nice GUI interface, adjust settings and hit the flash button, but that is only changing certain settings. Looks like changing making firmware on these is a little more complex. More than I need to get in to.

I finally repaired a farm tractor exhaust manifold the other day, bought the parts 18 years ago. Got a Harley in bits 4 years, and two e-bike builds on the go, plus Fordson Dexta restoration. I took 3 weeks holiday, now over, and all I have done is start a new project… flashlights… don’t need to get deeper into this !

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Grrrr. What is it with this damn forum software that it had to hijack the first line of each post, use it as a subject line , and in doing so, screw up and quotes.

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NeilP wrote:
… flashlights… don’t need to get deeper into this !

AAHHHhahahahha too late, bud Cash

NeilP
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I know Sad
Been looking up SOIC clips already

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I don’t see any pics on the link

FmC wrote:

Check out the 2nd picture in this link for a clear view of the traces of the board.

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FmC wrote:
Here ya go….

Gee, thanks. !!

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NeilP wrote:
I don’t see any pics on the link

FmC wrote:

Check out the 2nd picture in this link for a clear view of the traces of the board.

Here’s another.

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