[WIP] 17mm DD+single-7135 driver / single sided / Dual-PWM

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DavidEF
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fixed it wrote:
ToyKeeper wrote:
Any idea if it would run on a 15A 120V circuit which is already at ~30% capacity?
Depends a lot on the type of circuit breaker or fuse. Some large 15A breakers will easily supply 20-25A forever. The slimmer type, especially if next to another loaded circuit, may not fare as well. I used to have a microwave pulling 19A (official rating was 1500W…) on a 15A circuit together with about 2-3A of lighting. The lights would dim when using the microwave… but the breaker never tripped. The only sure way to find out is to try it.

Pro Tip: You want those breakers to trip. It’s what they were designed for. If they aren’t tripping on overcurrent, they’re not doing their job and are very dangerous! Shocked Worse, the issue might not be the breaker itself, but the wiring. It could be already damaging your electronics. Sorry to be so alarmist, but as an electrician, I’m trained to care about these things.

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Cousin Elmer
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I decided to give the large heat gun that’s been lying around my job (for a few decades) a try. I think it’s great for emitters but it doesn’t give me much/enough control on driver boards. I wanted to touch up some resistors on the edge of the board but I couldn’t avoid desoldering the MPU and 7135 at the same time. The FET wasn’t affected — it was far enough away. If I can’t fashion a nozzle for it I’ll gladly likely spring for the 858D. Now that I think about it, the air flow with a nozzle on that gun would be far too high… Parts would be flying everywhere. A purpose built hot air station would be worth a few bucks.

FWIW, after watching the technique shown at the 1:40 mark in this video I’ve been pretty happy with most surface mount work using an iron. However the pads on some of our drivers are so small it’s a bit more difficult.

fixed it
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DavidEF wrote:
fixed it wrote:
Depends a lot on the type of circuit breaker or fuse. Some large 15A breakers will easily supply 20-25A forever. The slimmer type, especially if next to another loaded circuit, may not fare as well. I used to have a microwave pulling 19A (official rating was 1500W…) on a 15A circuit together with about 2-3A of lighting. The lights would dim when using the microwave… but the breaker never tripped. The only sure way to find out is to try it.

Pro Tip: You want those breakers to trip. It’s what they were designed for. If they aren’t tripping on overcurrent, they’re not doing their job and are very dangerous! Shocked Worse, the issue might not be the breaker itself, but the wiring. It could be already damaging your electronics. Sorry to be so alarmist, but as an electrician, I’m trained to care about these things.

No worries, said microwave is now on its own 20A circuit. I was just pointing out that 15A is not a hard limit. Few breakers will trip right at 15A and properly installed wiring won’t magically burn up at 16A. But you certainly already know that Smile In fact, the only wiring I’ve hard melt down on me was crappy aluminium (probably on the wrong type of socket) in an apartment building from the 70s. It was only lightly loaded.
giorgoskok
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Hello everyone .
After making some wight’s 17mm fet drivers (A17DD) , i think i should step to this driver now .
So , first question : Which package of attiny is compatible with these drivers (if i want to use attiny 25/85) . SSU ? or what ?

Also , which version of the board i should use and which is the preffered components list ?

thanksss

FmC
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giorgoskok wrote:
Hello everyone .
After making some wight’s 17mm fet drivers (A17DD) , i think i should step to this driver now .
So , first question : Which package of attiny is compatible with these drivers (if i want to use attiny 25/85) . SSU ? or what ?

Also , which version of the board i should use m and what other components ?

thanksss

The parts list is the same as the A17DD, with the addition of a 7135 chip.

If you are using in an e-switch light, you may want to substitute the resistors with 10x higher values, as has been recently discussed, to lower the parasitic drain when not in use.

I’m using v009, not sure on the differences of the later revisions.

giorgoskok
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FmC wrote:
giorgoskok wrote:
Hello everyone .
After making some wight’s 17mm fet drivers (A17DD) , i think i should step to this driver now .
So , first question : Which package of attiny is compatible with these drivers (if i want to use attiny 25/85) . SSU ? or what ?

Also , which version of the board i should use m and what other components ?

thanksss

The parts list is the same as the A17DD, with the addition of a 7135 chip.

If you are using in an e-switch light, you may want to substitute the resistors with 10x higher values, as has been recently discussed, to lower the parasitic drain when not in use.

Thank you FmC !
Any clue about which version of the board i should use ? I’m not interested in e-switch.
Also which package of attiny i should use . On A17DD i used attiny13a-SSU . So in attiny 25/85 still SSU is what i need ?

pilotdog68
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Attiny25v-SSU would be the right size. the 85 doesn’t come in SSU package so you would have to use the SU package and bend the legs under, but it’s workable.

I’m not current on the different board versions though

My Favorite Modded Lights: X6R, S8 , X2R , M6, SP03

Major Projects:  Illuminated Tailcap, TripleDown/TripleStack Driver

DB Custom
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Whether you use the 13A or 25 will depend on which firmware you wish to utilize. The A6 firmware uses the 13A, Bistro uses the 25.

V013 is probably the board to use.

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I know about the firmwares for each attiny .
i will build some with 13a and some with 25 .

Thank you Dale ! Beer

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Built today 4 drivers :
One with attiny25 , and it works like a one mode driver (like the led minus and the ground is connected)…
Three with attiny13a that don’t even light up…

Checked all 4 boards for shorts (if there was any drop of solder for example) , but there aren’t any.

Any clue ? I believe there is a short inside the pcb layer , but i don’t know….

Flashy Mike
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Can’t you use a DMM for shortcut measurement? With so few parts it should be easy to find.

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On the attiny25 board there is a short between led minus and ground …
Desoldered all the components and it’s still the same . Soldered components in an other board and works perfect .

On the other 3 boards , checked the diode (if it was the other way around) but it is the right way installed .

DB Custom
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Did you put the ATTiny on in proper orientation? Don’t laugh, I’ve put em on backwards before…

Edit: I’ve also built a light completely that wouldn’t work at all, only to find the MCU was never flashed with firmware.

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Pictures, show us the drivers…

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The orientation is right , checked that too .
I flashed the attinys as long as i received them , but i’m going to reflash them today afternoon.

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wight]Up front: Sorry if I miss anything folks – I don't have a lot of time so I've skimmed the last 10+ posts.

[quote=DB Custom

wrote:
[lots of posts] I used the ATtiny13A for a couple of reasons: (a) because I’m rusty and I wanted something I knew I could program properly. (b) I also knew that it would be stable regardless of the hardware, so I’d be able to move through the modes properly and view them on my oscilloscope.

Having done those things, it looks to me as if this driver is ready to use with the more sensitive ATtiny25/45/85 MCUs. The extra components are present for a variety of reasons – one resistor is for the tailcap LEDs, one is for OTC pulldown, one is an FET gate pulldown resistor, and then I think the rest are there for regulating the voltage to the ATtiny25/45/85 (spike reduction). For more details look at #‘s 301, 314, 326. I’m sure there are more details in there somewhere. (I’m under the weather today and my mind is elsewhere to boot. Sorry!!)

R5 hasn’t been established, but Sharpie made a suggestion a few posts ago. I left the OTC pad at 0805 with the intention of testing moving to 10uF w/ a pulldown. Sharpie suggested 100K. His suggestion was also to change R1/R2 out for 10x the resistance, which I find to be a very reasonable suggestion. (so approximately 191k / 47k) Rather than bypassing R3, 10ohm might be a good start. Sharpie seemed to think so too. I still haven’t ordered 0603 sized components, but once I do I’ll test that myself.


Do any BLF member experiment to confirm these components values (resistors and capacitors)? Wight is offline for some time now. Perhaps he had made the research to find out. Thanks if someone can help. Already ordered the necessary stuff to start building some V032 boards.
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Mozart - not sure what parts you are referring to exactly for confirming. I lost track of all this - I'm using MtnE's MTN17DDm v1.1 boards now, mostly. I dunno for what MCU or usage you are building it for. For 13A's, it's all the standard parts for C1, D1, R1, R2, and OTC.

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Tom E, thanks for your reply.
I need to build some drivers for 1s flashlights with single, triple and quad emitters. I will be using 13A and 25 tinys. The parts that I would like to confirm are for the 25s. Can I use 1uf for C1, or a larger value is recomended? I have some 0603 4.7uf X7R capacitors if needed for C1. The otc can be 10uf with 100k pulldown resistor R5? As I will use these drivers with one cell lights the zener load resistor R3 can be 200ohm or a smaller value one? For the R6 FET gate pulldown I’m thinking to try 40k to 60k as Richard use in his 1.11 v driver, what do you think? Please, I need some “light guru” advice to correctly build these drivers.

finges
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What drivers are you planing to build?

Look at this post for the details on what components to use

http://budgetlightforum.com/node/35507

Basically, I use the following values in all drivers

C1 – 10uF
OTC – 1uF
R1 – 22k
R2 – 4.7k

With one cell you don’t need R3.

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Tom E wrote:
MtnE’s MTN17DDm v1.1 boards

Here is the parts list for this driver http://www.international.mtnelectronics.com/index.php?route=product/prod...

Quote:

FET: LFPAK56 N-Channel Mosfet
7135: AMC7135 Linear Regulator
D1: SOD-323 / 0805 / 0603 Schottky diode
Z1: SOD-323 Zener Diode – 4.3v <—> 5.1v
C1: 10uF MLC capacitor, 0603 or 0805 (X7R preferred)
R1: 19.1K, 1% resistor, 0603 or 0805
R2: 4.7K, 1% resistor, 0603 or 0805
UI: ATTINY13A MCU, SSH or SSU variant * symbol indicates MCU Pin 1 location
Spring / LED leads
OTC: 1uF MLC capacitor, 0603 or 0805 (X7R preferred) Pad with side closest to MCU can also be used as electronic switch pad
P: ~40K-60K 0402 or 0603 resistor

Tom E
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+1 w/finges. I've bee doin this stuff so long - there's so much history here, I make assumptions along the way.

C1 has been 10 uF since the beginning - last 3+ years, never changed, until the 25/45/85 came along and we(me) experimented with beefing up the cap. I go as high as 20 uF sometimes, stacking caps adds uF. Found it's needed on some boards, maybe with some parts, dunno.

I would also "always" populate R6 on the v032 board for a 25/45/85. I've used 12K's, but can go as high as 47K -- the lower, the more effective but don't go below 12K - some recommend not going below 40K.

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I’m using too 19.1k for R1 , not 22k .

Tom E
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Voltage divide resistors using batt+ after the diode should be 19.1K, before the diode should use 22K - that's been the rule so we don't have to use different values in the firmware. This board is before the diode, so you should use 22k so as not to impact the LVP values in all flavors of firmware out there.

This has been the "rule" for a long time now. Wight's boards are, I think, always before the diode. The diode causes a voltage drop, and that's why the difference.

If you mix it up, then the onus is on you to change the LVP values in the firmware - not sure if any firmware is around that configures it both ways, and allows you to choose at compile time -- could probably be done though, but you do want your voltage range you monitor roughly centered in the range you read in via the A-to-D.

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Hi,

I’m a noob in modding a torches here, I hope I can get a little insight on making lighted tailcap for Manker E14.

I have put resistors and LEDs on my tailcap board, but still have no idea where should I add the “bleeder” on the driver.

Any information is highly appreciated.

Thanks!

DB Custom
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The bleeder goes between ground and positive, pretty much anywhere you can find these 2 in close enough proximity to put the resistor.

Seems counter intuitive doesn’t it? lol

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lumenzilla wrote:
Hi,

I’m a noob in modding a torches here, I hope I can get a little insight on making lighted tailcap for Manker E14.

I have put resistors and LEDs on my tailcap board, but still have no idea where should I add the “bleeder” on the driver.

Any information is highly appreciated.

Thanks!

There are pads for this resistor where the red wire (+) is connected.
lumenzilla
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Thanks Dale & Mike, it works now!
I’m now adjusting the R size to get desired brightness.

Vaping
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Apologies for bringing up an “older” thread – I am looking to build a Fet+1 17mm Attiny13 driver which is one-sided and works with common firmware (like the ones in the repository, I have all flashing tools here). Initially I was going to order the MTN-17DDm (v1.11) from MTN, but realized that international shipping for 1 PCB (which is 0.65 cent) would not be that efficient.

Is https://oshpark.com/shared_projects/N0qhFri4 comparable with the MTN 17DD v.1.11 and would that be the current PCB version to use? Would anybody know whether that board works out?

I already own the following parts – do I need anything else? It is for a 1s configuration, so no Z1 required, I guess.
attiny13a-SSU
C1 – 10uF 10V+ 0603 or 0805
OTC: 1uF 0805
7135 (380 mA)
R1: 19.1k 0603
R2: 4.7k 0603
D1: SOD-323 Schottky

fet: PSMN0R9-25YLC (I tested this NXP fet before and it worked fine in another driver).

Thank you!

ps: I am also open to listen to other ideas, links to other boards and vendors. I have build an Oshpark board before and that all worked out.

giorgoskok
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I use this board with the exact same components you mentioned except 7135 (350mA) , and A6 firmware :

https://oshpark.com/shared_projects/dlwrGztk

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Thanks, I was going to order a board with a bypass hole, if possible. But thank you for confirming that your board works (I assume you worked out all the issues you mentioned above?).

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