Review TrustFire TR-3T6 Triple XM-L T6 5-Modes Memory LED Flashlight (3x18650)

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gogosmama
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Werner wrote:
Sorry. I am currently experimenting with dropbox for uploading my pictures. I am still unsure what happened. I am sure that the picture was visible after posting.
Hi, Werner
Could you please, reupload the photo to see the conection?

5Mode…. SunLight!!!!!

gogosmama
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Thanks Werner, Got the photo, I’m gonna test it right now.!!!!!!

5Mode…. SunLight!!!!!

zeremefico
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Wow.
Easy solution for the 3/5 modes of this driver.
Can we have the same result with the pencil&capacitor tweak?

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gogosmama
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zeremefico wrote:
Wow. Easy solution for the 3/5 modes of this driver. Can we have the same result with the pencil&capacitor tweak?

Τι εννοείς?????

5Mode…. SunLight!!!!!

Werner
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I am curious to see your results gogo.
——
I guess the driver stores the mode permanent in his EEPROM, it never looses the last mode, at least it didn’t in the time I tried. you can try it too, maybe I am wrong.
So a faster discharge with a pencil won’t work. Also there are a lot capacitors on this driver which have different reasons so I will not investigate this further. This seems to be fairly easy too.
—-
This mod is only to make it one mode always high.
If you want custom modes you can hang another controller on top of the driver, like I did. For example you can use a nanjg and simply solder the PWM pin on the right spot of the driver that’s what comfy and me are investigating right now with the srkdrivers…

P.S.: still waiting for the 64k Wink

gogosmama
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As far as good Werner, the flashlight works great with that mod. That was exacly what i was looking for.
Thanks Werner.

5Mode…. SunLight!!!!!

Bob Loblaw
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is there any fix for the nasty pwm on these drivers?

Werner
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Wire another controller on the driver and use the modes and PWM from the new controller…

aoeu
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Reviving old thread!

I have one of these, it works fine on 3 battery setup. Last night I switched it to 2 battery mode and it wouldn’t work. Just flashed once when turned on. Admittedly using Shitfire blue batteries. They’re all at 4.1 volts.

Does a 2 battery setup draw more current to trip the protection circuit?

MRsDNF
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aoeu wrote:
Reviving old thread! I have one of these, it works fine on 3 battery setup. Last night I switched it to 2 battery mode and it wouldn't work. Just flashed once when turned on. Admittedly using Shitfire blue batteries. They're all at 4.1 volts. Does a 2 battery setup draw more current to trip the protection circuit?

Yes I believe it will.

 

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Werner
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Of Course, if you use just two batteries the current will be higher.
If your batteryvoltage breaks further in at 2A the current increases even more and this can be too much for Garbage batteries, a kind of vicious cycle.
Check post 689 to See some measurements…

Cereal_killer
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Hey guys just picked one of these up and looking for throw (yes I know it’s not a thrower). I am planning on either all XP-G2’s on copper or possible 2x XP-G2’s and 1 XP-E2 all dedomed. Do to think the addition of 1 XP-E2 would give it any additional throw? What about even switching it up and doing 2 E2’s and 1 G2 or even all E2’s? I could care less about about total output but I have set a goal of 100kcd, I got the driver covered just tell me what emitter setup to use.

Any thoughts?

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Werner
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For throw you would be better served with a different flashlight, a c8 with xpg for example…

aoeu
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Werner wrote:
I am not modding the driver now because I have no use for it because its too huge... But the math is easy Total stock resistance: 1÷(1÷0.1+1÷0.2+1÷0.25)=0.0526 ohm So the sense Voltage is with estimated stock led current of 4.5A 0.0526ohm*4.5A=0.2367V Now you can calculate the resistance for the wished current... 0.2367/wishcurrent=total resistance needed For example: 0.2367A/7.5A=0.032ohm So I guess if you use 3 parallel R100 resistors you will get 0.033ohm and about 7A... If you add a single 0.2Ohm resistor you will get about 5.7A... Think of the fact that tailcapcurrent increases with sinking voltage and that your batteries have to deliver this....
I'm going to be adding in a .2. My board is the one with R100 200 250 already in place. Do I add the .2 ontop / of any of them or does it have to be a specific resistor? The most accessible is 200.

 

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I am looking for the cheapest price i can find on at least four to six of these. (i have plans.. Silly

That Canadian flashlight guy & Lantern Guru -Den / DBSARlight

aoeu
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Ok, so as above I have the driver with R100 200 250. I added an extra 200 in on top.

Standard tailcap with Shitfire – 1.8a (3 cells)
Modded tailcap with Samsung ICR18650 4.3 @ 4.17v – 2.0a (3cells)

Does that sound right? Thought there would be a bit more?

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Cereal_killer wrote:
Hey guys just picked one of these up and looking for throw (yes I know it’s not a thrower). I am planning on either all XP-G2’s on copper or possible 2x XP-G2’s and 1 XP-E2 all dedomed. Do to think the addition of 1 XP-E2 would give it any additional throw? What about even switching it up and doing 2 E2’s and 1 G2 or even all E2’s? I could care less about about total output but I have set a goal of 100kcd, I got the driver covered just tell me what emitter setup to use.

Any thoughts?

You probably already know that there are a ton better hosts for throw, so I’m going to assume you’re set on using this particular host.
XP-Es will give you the best throw at the lowest lumens, then XP-G.
Not sure about XPEs but at 4A, you can get a de-domed XPG up to 900+ lumens.

Slewflash 

aoeu
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Ok wasn’t happy with the 2a figure so I used a resistor calculator reach the .033 bench everyone else was using.

After the first mod I had
.1 + .2 + .2 + .25 = .041

Stacked another .2 on top = .0344

That equates to 2.8a and a nice bright light now.

Is there any issue with stacking 3 resistors? Any heat longevity issues?

Werner
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The tailcap current is just a hint if it works, but no absolute thing. That’s because with decreasing voltage the current increases. That could lead to higher current with less charged batteries. That’s the difficulty you have in mind with measuring regulated drivers..
It doesn’t matter where you solder the resistor because all three resistors are parallel.

Your numbers seem correct. This thing is not super bright(for us) because the stock current is very low(4.5A for 3 XMLs) and with a single 0.2ohm resistor you get around 6A, with two 0.2(same as one 0.1ohm) you will get around 6.8A emitter current. If you would go even higher you should also pay attention to the emitter stars and their heatsinking…
These drivers are very reliable, but they get hot. So the pros here try to heatsink them as good as they can. The diode and FET get either potted or a small heatsink attached. But this is no must, time will tell if it works. From my experience these thing can get seriously abused.

SeAcabo
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Hi there,

I have exactly the same driver as Werner posted (on image with cut trace). Strobe and SOS modes are annoying, but the most disappointed is PWM frequency in medium and low mode (it’s barely 130Hz).

Werner, what You can recommend to replace this PWM driver (correct me if I’m wrong – PWM driver is on the bottom with 10 legs? – in upper PCB we have buck-boost converter?)?

You said that could be done with nanjg (this mean ATTINY with software?), but what about other components??

Another disappointment – original driver hasn’t got battery protection Sad

I have the right to remain STUPID

Werner
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You can use a nanjg and strip down the 7135. Flash firmware with modes you like and connect the PWM out of the nanjg controller to the 3T6 driver and the power from 3t6driver to the nanjg like in the picture.
If you want battery monitor the standard resistors aren’t suitable and the wiring is also not correct because the voltage divider doesn’t sees the full voltage…

Check out the oshpark projects thread you might find a better base than a nanjg if you order some different resistors anyway…

SeAcabo
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I need to desolder this driver and check all traces. Maybe You have all schematic written down? I’ve got on eye Attiny13 with really good software. Maybe I could use it with TR-3T6 driver. Time will tell Smile

I have the right to remain STUPID

Werner
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I am confused which traces do you need to check?
Check post 717 to see the connections you need for the 3t6 driver.

SeAcabo
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All traces needed to get battery status detection and protection. If I understand the situation properly, point with +5V for PWM controller on Your photo is stabilized and don’t change value if I use 2 or 3 cells? (You mentioned about voltage divider). Or we misunderstand here?

I have the right to remain STUPID

Werner
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Of course the voltage is lower that is important because the controller can’t handle the full voltage.
The full voltage can be get from driver easyly, ground is ground and the battery + can be easyly spotted and checked for continuity with a DMM.

On the nanjg you only need to cut the trace from + to the resistor R1 and connect the resistor with battery+ From 3t6. And of course you need to use different values of resistors and or another firmware depending on what you want to achieve.
I will send you comfys picture of a stripped nanjg to make this clear.

xristos
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Hello
children
Can anyone help
can from 5 mode ang 1
Is there any way

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