Fix 105c driver

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Fix 105c driver

I broke this in another thread that was getting pretty long. I am direct driving the led off the battery and getting 3.2A out of it, but I really miss my low modes lol. I needed to see the absolute maximum brightness I could get out of the light, it's on par with my p60 drop ins now but I have an idea that might help me do that, WITH low modes. First things first I need to fix this driver if it's possible. 

 

http://i60.tinypic.com/2583r0l.jpg

 

the leg on the 7135 driver is contacting what I believe is the - contact for the LED. I am sorry for the bad picture it's the best camera I have right now. is that the real issue with this driver? I am going to head to RadioShack and get supplies to work on drivers. I think a magnifing glass/glasses, good solder tip, and flux should go a long way toward improving my Shadetree methods I've been using for years now. This is quite a bit smaller than what I'm used to soldering...car wires and such. Anything else that could help me get the job done better?

nofearek9
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do you have photo of the other side ?

tacitapproval
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Looks like the Led- is making contact with the ground ring. That would put it in direct drive. Do you have solder wick to clean up that blob? If not, Radio Shack has this too.

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Pic of the other side..

 

http://i60.tinypic.com/2dsmed0.jpg

 

 

im not having any luck removing the bridge from the 7135 + post to the - led contact patch. I think I've applied too much heat in too many attempts????? It's like the solder is embedded into the board.

 

is it possible to remove the 7135 driver next to the - lead?? Would I have to do anything else?

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This his is what I'm looking at. The LED ground next to the 7135 driver In the second pic. Looks like they are touching is that normal or ...? That's supposed to be the 7135 output leg if the other diagram I'm looking at is right.

 

Old-Lumens wrote:

nan1

Battery positive is where the spring is. Ground, (as in body or battery ground), goes to the outer ring.

 

 

nan2

LED positive and LED negative go to the pads shown here.

As comfychair said, the regulation is through the negative side.

tacitapproval
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The third leg of that 7135 is in contact with the Led- pad. No need to worry about bridging there. The Led- should not be in contact with the ground ring/battery ground, which is what it looks like is happening in your original picture.

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This pic is a little more clear, should I try this then?

 

http://tinypic.com/view.php?pic=10xvtko&s=8#.VLwViIo8KnM

tacitapproval
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The new picture looks fine. Have you tested it yet?

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Nope I'll let you know what happens, I have to clean up the old mess lol. thanks.

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Nope now I guess I screwed up the LED. I accidentally ripped the dome off. Put my finger straight down to hold it, it slipped sideways waiting for the solder to heat up and boom... There it was no dome, can't even bypass it and get light. Pretty frustrated, maybe I should give it up and just buy a couple new ones.

wight
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You’re going to kill a few things. No way around it.

The driver is probably OK, so you just need a new LED. No component on that driver is easy to kill. I recommend that you establish a test rig of some kind. Some people mount an LED & MCPCB on a heatsink. Others mount the LED inside the head of a light, as normal – and then run wires out of the light so that they can test drivers outside of the light.

Still fine, still on a break. One day I’ll catch up with you folks! previous wight catchup Wink
list of my drivers & variants (A17DD, FET+1 stuff, WIP stuff, etc)

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I finagled a p60 drop in inside the convoy s4. 2 mode light is almost perfect, hidden beacon mode would be cool. Anyway this will work for now, if I go messing with it again I might end up without any lights lol. My next couple lights I want to be bigger thrower lights. Probably best for me to get somebody else to build for me, I'll stick with the smaller cheaper stuff for now. 

 

Is it possible to get 5-600 lumens from a light the size of an sk68 clone, or smaller? I really like the brass 'keychain' type flashlights, if one was made with a control ring it would be ideal imo. Will 17500's give me the power needed to do that? I'm going to look into it I'm really not sure what I'll need, if it's even possible.

wight
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Yes, it’s possible.

Still fine, still on a break. One day I’ll catch up with you folks! previous wight catchup Wink
list of my drivers & variants (A17DD, FET+1 stuff, WIP stuff, etc)