DQG 18650 mini clicky

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Firelight2
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DQG 18650 mini clicky

Looks like a new version of the DQG 18650 is out…. this time with a side electronic clicky.





DQG 18650 clicky at CNQG

At 87mm long this is the shortest 18650 side-clicky on the market. 8mm shorter than a Zebralight SC62w.

Hopefully the quality is better than the earlier model twisty DQG 18650s.

Edited by: Firelight2 on 02/09/2015 - 15:37
ackattacker
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The runtimes and amps in the description don’t add up.

He says 50ma>500ma>2A>3A and runtime 350hr>19hr>5hr (then 60 second turbo) from 3400mAH cell

doing some simple math the runtimes should be closer to 68hr>6.8hr>1.7hr assuming a perfectly efficient driver.

First reaction is, I want it, but I’ll wait for some reviews to come in given that the previous generation was unusable and the price isn’t exactly throw-away money. Side clicky without lockout could be a problem, and the optic and XML-2 is going to be floody. I really wish they would make a version of the “brass beauty” (tail clicky, XP-G2) in aluminum.

dangerous
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Looks nice, but the ui doesn’t seem great and it’s a shame the low isn’t lower.

BLF

Firelight2
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I have a first generation DQG 18650 twisty. It was awful. The light constantly flipped modes when twisting. Usually multiple tries and 2-hands were required to get the desired mode. Even worse, the battery compartment tapered and was too small at the bottom for all but the narrowest of 18650s. Anything wider would go in, but get stuck and never come out.

From what I read, the generation DQG 18650 twisty fixed the battery not fitting issue, but the problem with mode changes when twisting remained.

This new clicky DQG looks like it has the switch from the DQG 26650…. a much better light.

However, from the pictures I can still see some potential issues:
1. Protruding side electronic clicky may turn-on accidentally in the pocket unless it is VERY stiff. This may make it unusable for EDC pocket use unless tailcap lockout is used.
2. Unknown if threads are anodized right to the end so we don’t know if it has the ability to have tailcap lockout.
3. The DQG 26650 had a crappy UI and this doesn’t look like an improvement.
4. Heat will be an issue. The DQG series definitely aren’t up to Zebralight quality when it comes to heat dissipation.
5. In order to get such a short light, many of the DQG series lights use an integrated driver/star. Instead of a separate star, the LED is mounted directly to the driver board. This makes reflowing to change the emitter MUCH harder. This light probably isn’t mod friendly.

On the upside:
1. Super-small 18650 light. And not a twisty so the issues with mode flipping with the previous DQG 18650s should not be present.
2. Nice looking styling
3. Nice knurling. Unlike the Zebralight SC62w this light actually has knurling.

adnj
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That’s pretty short – actually a little shorter than I find comfortable.

blueb8llz
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Really like the light but hate the ui.
Why does turbo have to be hidden. And starts on low. Does it turn off after cycling through modes?

mortuus
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35$ sounds a little high for such a small flashlight, whats the actual lumen ? it doesnt say..

...where Frugal meets with Flashlight!

              つ ◕_◕ ༽つ

raccoon city
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Brightness:

Turbo mode>850 Lumens   (Step down to previous mode after 60 seconds)

High mode>300 Lumens   (5 hrs by 3400mah Battery)

Middle mode> 80 lumens  (19 hrs)

Low mode: 3.5 Lumens  (350 hrs)

Chicken Drumstick
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I hope this is good. I have two of the original twisty ones and frankly they were one of the biggest flashlight let downs I’ve had.

My prime concern here is, if it turns on in your pocket – it’s NOT an EDC!!!!

A crappy UI certainly wouldn’t help any either. The UI description doesn’t sound bad however, but would like to see it in action. As it doesn’t say how you change modes with the light on, or how you turn it off.

Chicken Drumstick
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ackattacker wrote:
the optic and XML-2 is going to be floody.

I dunno, the twisty version actually throws pretty good. You might not think it would, even when white wall hunting, but outside I’d say it throws better than my Convoy S2+
Gunga
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This would be okay if it could fit a 17mm driver and I can swap in a Dr Jones driver!

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Would be nice to see a lockout feature like cheap egics have. 5 quick presses locks out, 5 quick presses unlocks. 

When they make stuff like this, they really need to ask us what the UI should be before hand. A crappy UI can kill a potentially great light

WarHawk-AVG
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Oh wow…what a gorgeous light…a bit outside my “budget” range…but daggum, very very nice looking!

Firelight2
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Gunga wrote:
This would be okay if it could fit a 17mm driver and I can swap in a Dr Jones driver!

Agreed.

However, I think it unlikely that this will be possible. The previous DQG 18650 models were so short because they were built with just one circuit board that contained both the driver circuitry and the LED. There was no separate star. Zebralight has used the same design strategy starting with the SC52.

Given how short the new model DQG 18650 is I think they probably used the same type of design. Not having a separate star can save as much as 1cm of overall length in the light, but unfortunately makes it almost impossible to do conventional simple mods.

Of course even if there isn’t room for a DrJones driver, 18650 and star, there are options for the creative modder.

Mod idea 1:
1. Remove the integrated driver/star.
2. Install new Noctigon star, heatsink plug and 17mm DrJones driver.
3. You’ll probably also need to install a new switch. Old switch is likely mounted on the edge of the original driver. Glue the new switch onto the new driver with some arctic alumina.
4. If switch turns on in pocket, replace switch and switch spring to make it stiffer. Consider gluing small aluminum ring around edge of switch button to make accidental turn-on much less likely.
5. Run the light on IMR 18500.
6. If there’s still extra space in the light after installing the mod and shorter battery, file down the back of the battery tube and top of the tailcap to shorten the overall length of the light.

Mod idea 2:
1. Remove the integrated driver/star.
2. Install 20mm triple noctigon with your choice of emitter + Carclo optic.
3. Because the new optic is shorter than the original optic there should now be enough room for a thin driver. Install driver of your choice. A single-sided STAR FET driver from Mountain Electronics would do the job and give you a nice pocket rocket. Mount new switch to upper edge of the new driver.
4. If switch turns on in pocket, replace switch and switch spring to make it stiffer. Consider gluing small aluminum ring around edge of switch button to make accidental turn-on much less likely.

Firelight2
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Chicken Drumstick wrote:
I hope this is good. I have two of the original twisty ones and frankly they were one of the biggest flashlight let downs I’ve had.

My prime concern here is, if it turns on in your pocket – it’s NOT an EDC!!!!

A crappy UI certainly wouldn’t help any either. The UI description doesn’t sound bad however, but would like to see it in action. As it doesn’t say how you change modes with the light on, or how you turn it off.

Re: pocket friendly
It’s amazing how pocket friendly a protruding sideswitch becomes when you glue a small ring, aluminum strip, or o-ring around the edges of the button. Very simple mod that can quickly convert a protruding button into a flush or even recessed button making accidental activation much less likely. Use super-glue gel or epoxy though… you don’t want runny glue running into the switch and gluing the button in place.

Re: UI
I agree the UI doesn’t sound too bad. Instant shortcuts to all modes from off sounds good. I do also have some questions though:
1. Turbo mode – does this only stay active while the button is held down? Or can you click and hold, then release after a second or two to stay in turbo mode?
2. How do you turn it off? Single click once on? Click and hold for 3 seconds once on? etc.

The UI would actually be pretty nice if the turbo mode was a click and hold for one second to toggle it on. And if turning it off from any mode was a single click after the light had been on more than 2 seconds.

Firelight2
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adnj wrote:
That’s pretty short – actually a little shorter than I find comfortable.

Yes it is pretty small. At 87mm it’s 5mm shorter than a Sipik 68.

This kind of light is for someone who wants the smallest possible light while still maintaining the runtimes of an 18650. So its main purpose would be pocket EDC where small size and weight are desired. This isn’t a duty light where comfort and ergonomics are more important than tiny size.

Hopefully the protruding switch doesn’t cause a problem.

Gunga
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Firelight2 wrote:

Given how short the new model DQG 18650 is I think they probably used the same type of design. Not having a separate star can save as much as 1cm of overall length in the light, but unfortunately makes it almost impossible to do conventional simple mods.

Of course even if there isn’t room for a DrJones driver, 18650 and star, there are options for the creative modder.

Mod idea 1:
1. Remove the integrated driver/star.
2. Install new Noctigon star, heatsink plug and 17mm DrJones driver.
3. You’ll probably also need to install a new switch. Old switch is likely mounted on the edge of the original driver. Glue the new switch onto the new driver with some arctic alumina.
4. If switch turns on in pocket, replace switch and switch spring to make it stiffer. Consider gluing small aluminum ring around edge of switch button to make accidental turn-on much less likely.
5. Run the light on IMR 18500.
6. If there’s still extra space in the light after installing the mod and shorter battery, file down the back of the battery tube and top of the tailcap to shorten the overall length of the light.

Mod idea 2:
1. Remove the integrated driver/star.
2. Install 20mm triple noctigon with your choice of emitter + Carclo optic.
3. Because the new optic is shorter than the original optic there should now be enough room for a thin driver. Install driver of your choice. A single-sided STAR FET driver from Mountain Electronics would do the job and give you a nice pocket rocket. Mount new switch to upper edge of the new driver.
4. If switch turns on in pocket, replace switch and switch spring to make it stiffer. Consider gluing small aluminum ring around edge of switch button to make accidental turn-on much less likely.

Wow, those are excellent ideas! I don’t have the time or desire to carry these out, I’d rather just use my Zebra lights. I am also expecting a Brass beauty 18650 that I will outfit with a Dr Jones driver. Love the creative ideas though!

Leeuwenhoek
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This appears quite similar to the DQG 26650. The ui on the DQG 26650 is great apart from holding to turn off/on but I guess this is necessary for the other features of the ui. The turbo is easy to access from any mode. If the on/off was just a half second hold that would be great.

Great idea on modifying the switch to make it harder to accidentally activate. The 26650 is pretty easy to mechanically lockout anyway if you remember. The clip might help protect the switch as well. I would like to know if this will fit all batteries though.

Chicken Drumstick
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Lock out is all fine and good for storage or when packed in your luggage. But should not be needed for a pocket EDC while being used for EDC purposes.

Firelight2
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Chicken Drumstick wrote:
Lock out is all fine and good for storage or when packed in your luggage. But should not be needed for a pocket EDC while being used for EDC purposes.

Agreed.

Having to disable a lockout to use a light that negates the advantage of having a convenient side-switch. Even a twisty would probably be less effort. I like having a tailcap lockout with e-switch lights to cancel out parasitic drain during extended periods of non-use. But during pocket EDC use I wouldn’t ever want to use a lockout.

Fortunately, there are ways to mod sideswitches to make them much less likely to accidentally activate in the pocket so lockout shouldn’t be needed.

Luminous
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Hoping this light is reviewed soon. Holding off on the buy until there’s more info.

Firelight2
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Luminous wrote:
Hoping this light is reviewed soon. Holding off on the buy until there’s more info.

I ordered one. When it arrives (probably 6-8 weeks) I’ll let everyone know how it is. :bigsmile:

Luminous
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Firelight2 wrote:
Luminous wrote:
Hoping this light is reviewed soon. Holding off on the buy until there’s more info.

I ordered one. When it arrives (probably 6-8 weeks) I’ll let everyone know how it is. :bigsmile:

Very much looking forward to it. I have the AAA clicky and the 26650 triple. Both have been quite good. This one could be a nice addition.

akoposilester
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Firelight2 wrote:
Luminous wrote:
Hoping this light is reviewed soon. Holding off on the buy until there’s more info.

I ordered one. When it arrives (probably 6-8 weeks) I’ll let everyone know how it is. :bigsmile:

looking forward for your review.

the dqg tiny 18650 is the worst flashlight i had, because of that i will never buy twisties again. i hope the clicky version is not another disappointment.

FL Newbie

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Anyone take delivery of this light yet?

Firelight2
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Luminous wrote:
Anyone take delivery of this light yet?

Still waiting for mine to arrive.

Typically here in California I receive deliveries from CNQG anywhere from 3-8 weeks after ordering. I expect to wait for some time yet.

Firelight2
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Just received my notification from CNQG that it shipped. So I figure another 3 weeks and I might get the light.

Firelight2
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Just received my DQG18650 mini clicky.
 photo IMG_0346.jpg

The picture has from left to right:

  • My modded Convoy S2+ mini. 18500 cell, 2500 lumens, 74mm, 49g empty.
  • DQG18650 mini clicky. 18650 cell, 87mm, 38g empty
  • Zebralight SC62w, 95mm, 40g empty

My initial impressions of the new DQG18650:

  • This light is tiny. It’s MUCH smaller than my Zebralight SC62w. It’s even noticeably shorter than my DQG18650 twisty (1st version).
  • Glossy green-grey anodizing looks very well nice. Looks much better than the black anodizing on my early version DQG18650 twisty.
  • The button is tiny and has a metal cap. It sticks out maybe half a mm from the body. It also doesn’t require that much pressure to click so there is a definite risk of accidental activation.
  • UI is a mixed bag. It’s not great:

single-click from off: low
double-click from off: medium
triple-click from off: high
long-click from on: turbo
double-click from low, med or high: advance to next non-turbo mode (low-med-high-then back to low)
single-click from low, med or high: off
single-click from turbo: goes back to previous mode before entering turbo
double-click form turbo: off
click from off-wait half second-click and hold: turbo
fast double-click from turbo: off

It has nice shortcut to minimum. Medium and high are also easily accessible. The problem is with turbo. To get to turbo from off you have to first single-click, then wait a half second for the light to turn on, then click-and-hold. Also, turning the light off from turbo requires a double-click, but only a single-click from other modes.

The interface works. It isn’t bad. But it’s not great either. There should be a faster shortcut to max power, and turning it off should be the same from al modes.

  • Ergonomics: This light feels GREAT in the hand. It’s fully knurled making it MUCH grippier than than the Zebralight SC62w. And it doesn’t have the wobbly head issue typical of many twisties.
  • Clip: Quite nice actually. It grips firmly and has a nice cutout for a finger. It’s also reversible.
  • Battery: I tested this light with a Zebralight protected 18650 cell (3100 mAh Panasonic NCR18650B with protection circuit and wrapper), and a Samsung 20R IMR cell. The light worked flawlessly with both cells. Unlike my early version DQG18650, this light looks like it should fit any 18650 cell. It works fine with flat top cells.
  • The head and body tube appear to be separate pieces, but the body tube seems to be threadlocked where it meets the head. Batteries are loaded from the tailcap. Any attempt to mod the driver would need to break the threadlocker though.
  • To save space, the battery tube is actually quite cleverly done. There is no spring in the battery tube. Instead there’s a raised post surrounded by a foam donut slightly higher than the post at the rear. Install a battery then screw it in until the foam donut stops the rattle. Screw it in further to make electrical connection. This mechanism allows for a shorter battery tube than if the light used a spring. It also gives the light tailcap lockout despite not having anodized tailcap threads. The light is 87mm long with a Samsung 25R installed and screwed down. If you use a longer cell, it will still work fine, but the tailcap won’t screw down quite as far making the entire light longer. There are plenty of extra threads in the tailcap to accomodate this system.
  • Tailcap lockout works with all sizes of cells and is easy to toggle with one-hand.
  • Beam pattern is excellent. Not surprising since it appears to use the same TIR optic found in the earlier DQG18650s. I chose neutral tint. It looks like an XML2 with 3C tint. The beam is fine, though as expected the tint isn’t quite as good as that found on lights with 3D or 4D tint.
  • Accessories: minimal. Came in a plastic case with a spare o-ring and the clip. No instructions or any other accessories.
  • Glow in the dark o-ring under the bezel.

Initial Impression:
Overall, despite the less than perfect UI, this is a much better light than my first generation twisty DQG18650. It’s the smallest single-18650 light on the market in both length and weight. It’s an excellent choice for anyone who wants the smallest possible light with the runtime of an 18650.

The UI is vastly inferior to Zebralight especially when combined with the risk of turning on in the pocket if tailcap lockout is not used. However, this can be forgiven given that it’s smaller and grippier than the Zebralight and costs 1/3 as much. Overall, I like this light.

Gunga
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That looks awesome, but I would want to swap out drivers instead of using that UI…

Firelight2
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Gunga wrote:
That looks awesome, but I would want to swap out drivers instead of using that UI…

Yes, I’ve been thinking about that too.

I suspect that one way they got the head so short is by using a single circuit-board combining both the driver and the emitter. Earlier DQG lights and all the recent Zebralights use this method. By only having a single board space is saved making for a shorter light.

This makes a driver change rather awkward, since there isn’t room in the light for a driver and a separate star while using the stock TIR optic.

NOTE: I haven’t verified that they used a single board… but I suspect they have.

I think the best potential for modding this light is in converting it into a triple. A triple TIR optic is much shorter than the stock optic. There should be room for a standard triple star and a conventional driver to fit into the light along with a Carclo optic. The star and optic can sit on top of the shelf in the head instead of behind it. A standard driver could then be installed behind it in place of the stock circuitboard. The hardest part might be finding room for the switch since I think it will end up pretty close to the star.

Both the bezel/head and the head/body threads appear to be threadlocked. But breaking that threadlock shouldn’t be an issue if you’re replacing the guts of the light anyways.

For the new emitter I’m thinking of a 3-amp Nanjg105c with triple Nichia 219B and DrJones lumodrv or Mokkdrv.

I’m not sure I want to tear apart the light when I only have the one though. I might order another and wait till it arrives before beginning the rebuild.

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Thanks for a great summary of this light, it is exactly the amount and type of information that I like most Smile

Looks like a nice light, but I would carry a light this size in my pocket and with this switch that would be a problem. Come to think of it, unintended pressing the button would just switch the light on in low, the next click would be off again, etc., not a really big deal perhaps..

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