D.I.Y. Illuminated tailcap

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djozz
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btw, the pot I linked is 3x3.5mm, should fit your pads Smile

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pilotdog68 wrote:
I guess I don't understand the circuit, pyro. The diode is just on one led? What does the back of the board look like?

From Oshpark:

 

pyro1son
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It occurred to me that the layout wasn’t optimum

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Hey pyro, where did you get your library part for the pot? I want to try playing with it tonight. Yours looks good! So the diode is to protect if the pot is left fully “open”? I’m wondering if it might be better to put a 500ohm or 1kohm resistor for that instead. In the past the diode in series has made the light drop off too fast as the battery gets low.

My Favorite Modded Lights: X6R, S8 , X2R , M6, SP03

Major Projects:  Illuminated Tailcap, TripleDown/TripleStack Driver

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I can change the pad then people can choose what they use but your right a resistor may work better, but wouldn’t give polarity protection.

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Yeah I wasn’t thinking about reverse polarity. I tend to put my batteries in the correct way Wink Oops

My Favorite Modded Lights: X6R, S8 , X2R , M6, SP03

Major Projects:  Illuminated Tailcap, TripleDown/TripleStack Driver

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Yeh so do I but you never know

.lbr file is here

Thinking of just making an order of some then measuring and making sure before any boards are ordered. What value are we thinking 20k? 50k?

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djozz
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pyro1son wrote:
Yeh so do I but you never know .lbr file is "here":http://forum.arduino.cc/index.php?PHPSESSID=luta6krda4f5g79mnpqe96k3n3&a... Thinking of just making an order of some then measuring and making sure before any boards are ordered. What value are we thinking 20k? 50k?

To be able to make it really dim definitely 50K, perhaps even 100k (you can always set it lower)

Polarity protection is only needed with the pot fully open I guess? In that case when setting the pot you have to be careful, when it is set you can just put in your battery the wrong way around with no damage to the tail leds?

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I use clear perspex spacers so can get away with even lower brightness and longer run times I’m leaning towards 50K then use the D1 pad to set the lowest available value around 10K

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where do you get that perspex? Wouldn’t the LED’s themselves be reverse-polarity protection?

My Favorite Modded Lights: X6R, S8 , X2R , M6, SP03

Major Projects:  Illuminated Tailcap, TripleDown/TripleStack Driver

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Yes I suppose that’s true. They are the ones from aliexpress

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I make the spacers myself, I have a chunk of 2mm clear perspex. Drill a 7.5mm hole, saw a squarish piece around it and then sand it round to size with the disc-sander.

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pyro1son wrote:
They are the ones from aliexpress

Would you mind posting a link? The link I had in the op originally now redirected to a completely different product, so I deleted it.

Thanks

My Favorite Modded Lights: X6R, S8 , X2R , M6, SP03

Major Projects:  Illuminated Tailcap, TripleDown/TripleStack Driver

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HERE

Took me a while to find

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pyro1son wrote:
HERE

Took me a while to find


uhh is the brown just a peel off paper or something? I think that’s the link I had originally, but the pictures used to show clear

My Favorite Modded Lights: X6R, S8 , X2R , M6, SP03

Major Projects:  Illuminated Tailcap, TripleDown/TripleStack Driver

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Oh that’s not right! Bare with me!

Appears they no longer stock them. I have quite a few if you’re in need.

Found! HERE

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lol that looks better. Do those require any trimming at all?

My Favorite Modded Lights: X6R, S8 , X2R , M6, SP03

Major Projects:  Illuminated Tailcap, TripleDown/TripleStack Driver

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I haven’t had to trim any so far but depends on the light being used.

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pyro1son wrote:
I haven’t had to trim any so far but depends on the light being used.

Cool. The smaller ones from Home Depot I always have to increase the interior diameter a bit to fit over the switch.

My Favorite Modded Lights: X6R, S8 , X2R , M6, SP03

Major Projects:  Illuminated Tailcap, TripleDown/TripleStack Driver

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What Home Depot dept? I have a step drill.

Three Tanna leaves to give him life, nine to give him movement. But what if he eats the whole bag?

Scott

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Rufusbduck wrote:
What Home Depot dept? I have a step drill.

They’re nylon washers, in the hardware/screws/nails aisle at my home depot. I also use a step bit to drill out the middle.

They’re not exactly clear, but they help to diffuse the light more evenly under the boot at the cost of some efficiency.

Linked at the bottom of the OP

My Favorite Modded Lights: X6R, S8 , X2R , M6, SP03

Major Projects:  Illuminated Tailcap, TripleDown/TripleStack Driver

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Thanks. I think Orchard Supply might also have them. That’s where I normally get nylons. Wink

Three Tanna leaves to give him life, nine to give him movement. But what if he eats the whole bag?

Scott

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A while ago I realized 17mm was still too big for many lights. A few months later, I have finally gotten around to shrinking the pcb down to 16mm. While I was at it, I enlarged all pads bigger than they were on v3, and added the pot footprint (thanks pyro for the idea and .lbr). Also, instead of adding 1 or 2 more vias, I made all vias much larger than before. The only negatives I can think of vs the 17mm v3 board are:
- The two sides are now dependent, you can’t just cut a trace and have two distinct circuits
- The spring pad diameter has gone down from 10mm to 9.5mm

As always, let me know if you see any errors.

My Favorite Modded Lights: X6R, S8 , X2R , M6, SP03

Major Projects:  Illuminated Tailcap, TripleDown/TripleStack Driver

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I was thinking about doing one with the pot right in the middle of the spring pad. Thoughts?

My initial concerns:
I don’t know if the pot case is electrically neutral
It would make spring bypasses more difficult

My Favorite Modded Lights: X6R, S8 , X2R , M6, SP03

Major Projects:  Illuminated Tailcap, TripleDown/TripleStack Driver

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The kind of spring bypass i do with silicon wire shouldn’t connect to the casing of the pot if the spring dosen’t bottom out, are you thinking of copper braided spring bypasses?

We could always do spring bypasses on the outside if the pot where in the way.

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I think a slider switch in the middle of the spring is a better idea, but the switches I have are just barely too big. Has anyone found a switch smaller than 6.75*4.5mm?

My Favorite Modded Lights: X6R, S8 , X2R , M6, SP03

Major Projects:  Illuminated Tailcap, TripleDown/TripleStack Driver

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I really like that last design, with the pot in there, it could be fine tuned or one could even eliminate the fixed value resistor with a jumper and only tune the pot. Maybe a thru hole behind the pot to allow for adjustment without taking it all apart? Please?

Matt

EDC rotation:
KR4, SST-20 FA3 4000k (favorite!)
FW3A, Nichia 4000k sw40 r9080 (second favorite)
FW1A, LH351D 3500k (third favorite)
FW1A, XP-L Hi 3A
FW3A, LH351D 3500k
FW3A, SST20 FD2 4000k
FW3A, Cree XP-L Hi 5A3
Emisar D4V2, SST20 4000k
Emisar D4V2, brass E21A 3500k (night light of choice)

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I’m not 100% on which pads we need to be using for the pot. I think the way you have it set at the moment will be fixed at the maximum value of the POT

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It occurred to me this morning that as long as the bleeder resistor is on the cap after the D1 on the driver board we would still have reverse polarity protection.

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mattlward wrote:
I really like that last design, with the pot in there, it could be fine tuned or one could even eliminate the fixed value resistor with a jumper and only tune the pot. Maybe a thru hole behind the pot to allow for adjustment without taking it all apart? Please? Matt

Hmm, you're on to something here Smile . But in an assembled tail, the hole would be behind the retaining ring. How about a version with the pot on the spring side, right in the middle? The middle contact of the pot can be made the batt-minus to that contact with the compressed spring is allowed.

(artist's impression:)

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