D.I.Y. Illuminated tailcap

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thijsco19
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This is just awesome!
Making a simple part that complicated can only being done by BLF :P.

Pulsar13
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pilotdog68 wrote:
Pulsar13 wrote:
I don’t see any minimum resistor being set in series. Just wondering, what happens if you set the pot to 0 ohm? With the bleeder resistor only at about 0.5k, will the tiny LED withstand the current?

Right, so don’t set your pots to 0! :bigsmile:

There just isn’t anywhere to put another component that I can see. If you just want the on/off function, Rev2 and Rev3 have the resistor in series with the pot.

Right, don’t drink and pot! :bigsmile:

Interesting progress with the switching, one can set between glow and nightlight mode.

Maybe we can drill the tailcap and allow access to the switch from outside in future versions. That would be cool.

pilotdog68
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Whenever I grab a light to show off to muggles, it’s usually my naked S8 and it’s usually in the daytime indoors, so I want the blue tailcap to be bright enough to stand out. The rest of the time, I want it more dim and functional. That was my inspiration.

My Favorite Modded Lights: X6R, S8 , X2R , M6, SP03

Major Projects:  Illuminated Tailcap, TripleDown/TripleStack Driver

Rufusbduck
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Thanks pilotdog, using a via and means less solder wicks up the wire to stiffen it when you add the spring. Also means less likely hood of bridging in this case and placement is automatic.

Three Tanna leaves to give him life, nine to give him movement. But what if he eats the whole bag?

Scott

pilotdog68
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Good to know, RBD. So is that a good size and placement? (although I don’t know how much I could change it anyways)

My Favorite Modded Lights: X6R, S8 , X2R , M6, SP03

Major Projects:  Illuminated Tailcap, TripleDown/TripleStack Driver

Rufusbduck
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Placement is great. Via is big enough for awg18 though I think the insulation of silicon wire might be to thick in that size to clear the spring. Thoughts on that? I’ve only done solder wick bypasses so far so not sure of the ideal wire size but a .8 via would still allow up to awg22 and put solder mask between the via and the spring. The problem I’ve had is the spring requires more heat to wet and sharing the same pad means the wick takes up more solder than is wanted. A via takes less space than a pad and is easier to keep discrete. I appreciate the work that goes into this and I’m making an effort to consider how this board might be used by others besides myself and not just making more work for you. Thank you.

Three Tanna leaves to give him life, nine to give him movement. But what if he eats the whole bag?

Scott

pilotdog68
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Rufusbduck wrote:
Placement is great. Via is big enough for awg18 though I think the insulation of silicon wire might be to thick in that size to clear the spring. Thoughts on that? I’ve only done solder wick bypasses so far so not sure of the ideal wire size but a .8 via would still allow up to awg22 and put solder mask between the via and the spring. The problem I’ve had is the spring requires more heat to wet and sharing the same pad means the wick takes up more solder than is wanted. A via takes less space than a pad and is easier to keep discrete. I appreciate the work that goes into this and I’m making an effort to consider how this board might be used by others besides myself and not just making more work for you. Thank you.

1.1mm is the drill diameter I used for the via, but I think that’s before it gets plated. They always end up smaller when I get them from Oshpark. I understand what you’re saying about wicking, but I don’t think I can do much to get around that. Even if the pad is small enough to have solder resist between it and the spring, it’ll still be connected by the copper underneath. I would just solder the wire in its hole, then tack the spring down in the two corners furthest from the wire to avoid the wicking as much as possible. I never solder the spring all the way around, just in 2 or 3 places.

My Favorite Modded Lights: X6R, S8 , X2R , M6, SP03

Major Projects:  Illuminated Tailcap, TripleDown/TripleStack Driver

chouster
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PD and pyro you guys are awesome!

djozz
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My first adventures with the transistor circuit, quick story because I need sleep now.

 

I used one of the older boards, cut some traces, scratched off some solder mask and got the circuit done.

Long story short, it does not work straight out of the box, I tried lots of other configurations and resistor values (the bleeder eats voltage so that has its influence on the working of the circuit), even refreshed my knowledge of NPN transistors for this (keep enough voltage over the base), I get red light (most of the times), I get blue light, but no switch-over at certain voltages. Too low resistor values even keep the driver MCU alive (LVP warning Laughing), etc. What does not help is that I have no electronics background.

A dedicated board would help the testing, but if it will work at all in the end, I don't know.

An explanation of how I think the circuit works: at voltages closer to full battery the green led (I used blue btw) lights up and that keeps enough voltage on (and thus current through) the transistor base that a free current flows from emitter to collector, thus bypassing the red led, that stays off. Below a certain voltage the green led drops out, the voltage between the transistor base and ground drops below 0.7V, the transistor stops conducting and the red led lights up.     Anyone knows better than this??

Next round of fiddling some other time..

Werner
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Are there no pots available which can be adjusted from the underside so that we could turn the pot through a small hole….?

Edit:
Trimmer rear adjustment…
http://www.mouser.de/ProductDetail/Murata-Electronics/PVZ3R203C01R00/?qs...

mattlward
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That was what I had in mind a few posts back… would be great for final adjustment.

EDC rotation:
FW1A, LH351D 4000k (second favorite)
FW3A, LH351D 3500k
FW3A, SST20 FD2 4000k
FW3A, Nichia 4000k sw40 r9080 (favorite light!)
FW3A, Cree XP-L Hi 5A3
Emisar D4V2, SST20 4000k

Werner
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It Would also make the Second Trimmer and the switch obsolet…

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Werner wrote:
It Would also make the Second Trimmer and the switch obsolet…

I disagree. I feel adjusting such a small pot with such a wide range of resistance is going to be very very touchy. And you won’t be able to see the led’s when you’re adjusting it. I’d rather have preset options that I’ve already dialed in to where I want them.

That’s just my opinion, but it sounds like the boards pyro already made are perfect for your desires.

My Favorite Modded Lights: X6R, S8 , X2R , M6, SP03

Major Projects:  Illuminated Tailcap, TripleDown/TripleStack Driver

Werner
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you can also dial in your preference and mark it with a permanent marker so you could simply “switch” between preferences once you have found them. Depending on the position it might be able to write down some “clock like labels” so you can just use resistance number 3 and 8.
Also I would simply wire it up while adjusting it, crocodile clips are our friends;)
But maybe I am underestimating how close high and low brightness are…

The benefit would be that no parts would be in the battery compartment. And that the hole could be not in the center where the spring with bypass is a big obstacle.
But anyway it seems that the rear adjustement trimmers are rare and big…

Rufusbduck
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I thought trim pots didn’t like being moved much. More of a set it and leave it thing.

Three Tanna leaves to give him life, nine to give him movement. But what if he eats the whole bag?

Scott

Rufusbduck
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Just an FYI. Looking at a mini omten there is a five pin locator on the bottom. Four .55 mm plastic pins in a 2.7mm square(2.9-3.1mm outside dimensions) with one in the enter. Could be easily cut off or pattern incorporated into boards.

Three Tanna leaves to give him life, nine to give him movement. But what if he eats the whole bag?

Scott

pilotdog68
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Rufusbduck wrote:
Just an FYI. Looking at a mini omten there is a five pin locator on the bottom. Four .55 mm plastic pins in a 2.7mm square(2.9-3.1mm outside dimensions) with one in the enter. Could be easily cut off or pattern incorporated into boards.

On the Omten 1288? mine do not have that…

The little slide switches do have 2 little plastic pins on the bottom though, that’s what those random holes in the middle of the PCB are for.

My Favorite Modded Lights: X6R, S8 , X2R , M6, SP03

Major Projects:  Illuminated Tailcap, TripleDown/TripleStack Driver

Rufusbduck
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Quote:
On the Omten 1288? mine do not have that…
The little slide switches do have 2 little plastic pins on the bottom though, that’s what those random holes in the middle of the PCB are for.

The switch I looked at says omten and came off a switch pcb with matching holes. I figured that your holes were for your switch. I have some small push button switches with the same pins.

Three Tanna leaves to give him life, nine to give him movement. But what if he eats the whole bag?

Scott

pilotdog68
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Interesting. I haven’t seen one of those switches.

My Favorite Modded Lights: X6R, S8 , X2R , M6, SP03

Major Projects:  Illuminated Tailcap, TripleDown/TripleStack Driver

Halo...
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Some components are available both with and without locater pins. They could both be the same switch just different variations.

DrafterDan
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Okay, I’m running into some issues. This is the V3 20mm board.

I assembled it like the previous versions, but the LED’s won’t light. I did some checking with the multimeter, and things do appear to be getting power like they should.
The spring wire is attached to that central via.

I did cut off the switch, and found a possible short from the NEG side to that POS via trace. I shortened the leg of the next switch, but the results are the same: no joy.

Here are both sides, see anything obviously wrong?

have light, will travel

djozz
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You could unsolder the leds to see if there isn't one solder-bridged underneath (it happens to me too often).

pilotdog68
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That switch tab should not be touching the little center via.

Sorry for the short response, I’m at work.

My Favorite Modded Lights: X6R, S8 , X2R , M6, SP03

Major Projects:  Illuminated Tailcap, TripleDown/TripleStack Driver

Rufusbduck
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pilotdog68 wrote:
That switch tab should not be touching the little center via.

Sorry for the short response, I’m at work.


I think that’s the short he alluded to but yeah, that one for starters. Have you checked the polarity of the LEDs and verified their operation with a low cell? A pair of half drained alky’s or nimh’s would be better.

Three Tanna leaves to give him life, nine to give him movement. But what if he eats the whole bag?

Scott

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Hey guys! Smile

i was just modding a prototype tail cap Manker sent me for the new X6/X5 lights. They came with two 2ohm resistors, one for each LED (red). Removing one of the resistors made it better (less bright) but I still found it to be too bright so I changed it to a single 3.9ohm resistor and it wouldn't even light up at all. I swapped in a single 2.5ohm resistor and it is about perfect.

i love the idea of a pot being built in but wanted you to know that anything over 3-4 ohms is pointless.  The workable range is only about as high as 3ohms in my findings so using anything too wide in range will be nearly impossible to dial in to even get it to light if you use a 50k or higher like I read some of you wanting to do. Try to use a pot with as low a range as possible. 

If anyone has had a different experience than I did I'd love to hear about it. Smile

Rufusbduck
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Does the X6 /X5 prototype driver have a bleeder and what resistance is it?

Three Tanna leaves to give him life, nine to give him movement. But what if he eats the whole bag?

Scott

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Rufusbduck wrote:
Does the X6 /X5 prototype driver have a bleeder and what resistance is it?
it does but I'm not positive on the resistance. I believe it is 560.  I'm checking with Selene and krono for a definitive answer.
Werner
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Are you sure it were only 2-3ohm??? Or kohm?

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Ohms.  THe original was 30B. 

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No offence, but I’m willing to bet money it was kOhms.

For a nice bedside glow I usually use 3.6-5.6kohm

My Favorite Modded Lights: X6R, S8 , X2R , M6, SP03

Major Projects:  Illuminated Tailcap, TripleDown/TripleStack Driver

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