D.I.Y. Illuminated tailcap

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mattlward
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pilotdog68 wrote:
Good news: I have initial word that Simon/Convoy will try to source the 16mm clear boots

This would be awesome!!!

EDC rotation:
FW1A, LH351D 4000k (second favorite)
FW3A, LH351D 3500k
FW3A, SST20 FD2 4000k
FW3A, Nichia 4000k sw40 r9080 (favorite light!)
FW3A, Cree XP-L Hi 5A3
Emisar D4V2, SST20 4000k
S2+, XM-L2 T6 4C

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Simon! Party Beer

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pilotdog68 wrote:
zoom zoom wrote:

So I re-read djozzs’ post, he actually used a 1k resistor and suggested a 15k would work better with his setup With the red LEDs and 680ohm bleeder. 

 

I’m using a 560ohm bleeder and a 15k resistor. I’m thinking I’m holding back too much power? Even if I bypass the diode pads with wire/solder I still shouldn’t be putting too much to my leds since it’s 7.5mA (4.2/560)   15,560ohms=.2mA+/- the 100kohm pot.

 

i think that is where I will start my troubleshooting. I also want to order 680ohm resistors to use as a bleeder and see if it fixes my mode switching issues.


I have never been able to use that high of resistance. Usually the highest I can use in the tail is about 6.8k before I can’t see it though the tailcap anymore. I know Djozz does use higher resistance than me, but I think his spacers/washers let more light through than mine do. I would definitely try lower resistance.

Maybe one or two of the clear insulation/spacer discs would work allowing more light through with less parasitic drain?

Three Tanna leaves to give him life, nine to give him movement. But what if he eats the whole bag?

Scott

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Rufusbduck wrote:

Maybe one or two of the clear insulation/spacer discs would work allowing more light through with less parasitic drain?

Maybe, I’m not sure if that would be sturdy enough though.

My Favorite Modded Lights: X6R, S8 , X2R , M6, SP03

Major Projects:  Illuminated Tailcap, TripleDown/TripleStack Driver

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pilotdog68 wrote:
Good news: I have initial word that Simon/Convoy will try to source the 16mm clear boots

Just reporting that I have a more definite answer on this. Simon has found a source and ordered some for his store. The only thing that can stop us now is if that supplier backs out.

My Favorite Modded Lights: X6R, S8 , X2R , M6, SP03

Major Projects:  Illuminated Tailcap, TripleDown/TripleStack Driver

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I HAVE LIGHT!!!!

 

I tried a couple different things, here are my results...

 

MTN17DD driver with guppydrv rev2 in a Sinner host.

 

560ohm driver bleeder between + spring and ground ring.

15k resistor on the diode pads

NO LIGHT!

 

560 ohm driver bleeder resistor

560 ohm resistor on diode pads

pot turned full left, no light

pot turned half, no light

pot turned full right, very very dim light!!!

 

so then I removed the resistor on the tailcap pcb and used half the strands from a piece of 20ga wire to bypass the resistor pads. 

560 ohm driver bleeder

bypassed diode spot with wire

pot turned full left, no light

pot turned half, no light

pot turned 3/4 right, very very dim light

pot turned full right, decent but dim light!!! Not visible through switch boot.

 

so my modes don't switch at all not with guppydrv, I swapped the 15k driver bleeder resistor hoping to change that and have very very dim light that may charge the gitd switch boot, but even with the 15k driver bleeder the firmware still will not function right. 

 

I'm going to have to try more experiments with the blf a6 firmware I have on order. For now I'm going to put the 560ohm resistor back on the driver and leave it at 30% so I can have some light and see if the dim light is enough to keep the boot charged. I am going to order brighter leds from lighthouse as well as more resistors from digikey and go from there.

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For the record, normally you would need a lower resistance for the bleeder to help make the modes work better. I am not surprised at all that 15k on the driver didn’t fix it. That being said, I have never used guppy so I don’t know it does memory.

BLF A6 might cause you even more problems. It definitely takes playing with, there isn’t a 1-step solution to making these things work. Hang in there.

My Favorite Modded Lights: X6R, S8 , X2R , M6, SP03

Major Projects:  Illuminated Tailcap, TripleDown/TripleStack Driver

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For reference I’m using 120 ohm bleeder resistor on driver and 10K POT on the tail

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I’m thinking we can get the same brightness from a lot less battery drain by using XQ-E’s instead of the little 0805’s. They’re a bit more expensive, but maybe it’s worth it?

My Favorite Modded Lights: X6R, S8 , X2R , M6, SP03

Major Projects:  Illuminated Tailcap, TripleDown/TripleStack Driver

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Possibly.
With the new option from OSHPark we can get thinner boards with double copper!!!

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Hey guys, the 16mm clear boots are at Convoy now. Lot of 10 is $4.05, free shipping.

http://www.aliexpress.com/store/product/Flashlight-tailcap-translucent/3...

My Favorite Modded Lights: X6R, S8 , X2R , M6, SP03

Major Projects:  Illuminated Tailcap, TripleDown/TripleStack Driver

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I ordered a batch. Hopefully they will arrive in decent time.

Thanks for the heads-up PD!

have light, will travel

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The only thing missing now is that beautiful glow. And I have to remind Simon that the clip goes one groove back! :bigsmile:

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pyro1son wrote:
Possibly. With the new option from OSHPark we can get thinner boards with double copper!!!

 

I ordered a couple batches of those Smile thanks for the pot board!

 

I went to lowes yesterday and picked up a piece of plexiglass and a hole saw. Ended up making about 50 clear washers that let practically all the light through. Pretty much doubled the brightness in my sinner tailcap! 

 

I got the sinner with mtn17DD/guppydrv rev2 working like it's supposed to. I didn't have the right resistors but I had 2 200ohm ones here, those in parallel make 100ohms, and after adjusting the potentiometer a few times everything is back to normal with the firmware. 

 

I put in a couple rather large orders for everything. Hopefully I got the right diodes. 

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I’m beginning to think my nylon washers are blocking more light than I originally thought, even though the light diffusion is nice. I think I’ll do the same with the lexan and a hole saw. Maybe I’ll add some DC Fix too, we’ll see.

Also, my potentiometers came this week. I ordered the 20k range, and they work quite well. Thanks pyro for sharing the Eagle part, it fits perfectly.

My Favorite Modded Lights: X6R, S8 , X2R , M6, SP03

Major Projects:  Illuminated Tailcap, TripleDown/TripleStack Driver

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Tight fit but looks pretty good nice job

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Yep, it’s definitely tight. This is the little 16mm board, the 20mm is a bit more roomy.

My Favorite Modded Lights: X6R, S8 , X2R , M6, SP03

Major Projects:  Illuminated Tailcap, TripleDown/TripleStack Driver

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Ok, just got back from Home Depot. I grabbed a 7/8” hole saw bit and a sheet of the cheapest and thinnest plastic sheet. It is sold as a replacement for glass in picture frames. On the left is the ring I made from that sheet, on the right is the nylon ring I had been using. In the middle is what I think I will be using from now on. As you can see the middle one is a lot more translucent than the nylon washer, but should give a more even spread of light than the totally clear sheet from HD. It’s also stronger and less brittle than the clear sheet. Anybody want to guess what plastic I made it from?

My Favorite Modded Lights: X6R, S8 , X2R , M6, SP03

Major Projects:  Illuminated Tailcap, TripleDown/TripleStack Driver

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PVC plastic, some food packaging? (But which?) :~ How’s that for a non-answer!
How thick is it?

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It’s about the same thickness as the nylon washer, approx 0.07”. And no, not from any kind of packaging

I’ll just tell you. It’s the same plastic I used to make a replacement lens for my Nitefighter L1A. I cut it from the drawers of a set like this:

My Favorite Modded Lights: X6R, S8 , X2R , M6, SP03

Major Projects:  Illuminated Tailcap, TripleDown/TripleStack Driver

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Lol brilliant! I ordered 10 and 20k pots, wasn't sure which one would be better. 

 

The sinner modes went finnicky on me yesterday. It wouldnt change groups then it was fine. 20 minutes later it quit changing modes and started comming on on high, 3 minutes later it was back to normal. I don't know why it's doing that, hasn't happened today.

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Zoom: that’s weird about the modes, any chance heat could have something to do with it?

………………………

Has anyone tried removing the metal button on a colored S2+?

My Favorite Modded Lights: X6R, S8 , X2R , M6, SP03

Major Projects:  Illuminated Tailcap, TripleDown/TripleStack Driver

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TK posted pictures of a disassembled button. Somewhere.

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pilotdog68 wrote:
Zoom: that's weird about the modes, any chance heat could have something to do with it? ........................... Has anyone tried removing the metal button on a colored S2+?

 

yea I think heat has something to do with it. it would go back to normal after it cooled down. I got the pots and new resistors in, and diodes. I ordered 200mA/30V schottky diodes which seem fine as long as the line is on the right side, which is the left, closer to the LED. With these 120ohm resistors and the new brighter leds I cannot get the modes to work 100%. There is only one spot on the 100k pot that modes will work at all, between 75&80%(3/4 or a little more from full right) and it is always a "next mode memory" even when there isn't supposed to be memory. I am now using a convoy s6 with triple nichia and BLF A6(mtn17DDm) firmware as well as a triple XPL sinner with guppydrv rev1(mtn17DD) for testing, both with 120ohm bleeder resistors.

 

 

The 10k pots are small, I haven't tried to fit one yet, kind of doubt they will work. The 20k pots were the right size but they have a tab right between the two legs that wants to contact one side or the other which causes the pot (and leds) not to work at all. More searching through digikey is required for a 20k pot that might work easier, for now I'm just using the 100k.

 

 

I paralleled 120ohm resistors and I have the same issue, with modes working fine until the light warms up, and then the modes do weird things, stuck on low, no memory, reverting to turbo then strobe and beacon with normal fast presses, until the light cools and it goes back to normal.

I can't help but wonder if swapping for a different value capacitor would remedy the situation, I hate to go with a bleeder resistor that will let too much more power leak off. Richard told me that I could try it, so that will be the next thing I try.

 

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Well the issue is definitely that the capacitor is being inconsistent. Maybe it’s just a damaged cap, or maybe it does need a different value. I’m not sure, I’ve never had issues persist this long.

My Favorite Modded Lights: X6R, S8 , X2R , M6, SP03

Major Projects:  Illuminated Tailcap, TripleDown/TripleStack Driver

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I've been using 3 different drivers, one just went to a friend with an s2+. Without the bleeder resistors everything is kosher. I am getting parts for more drivers in the next day or two so I'll swap drivers with different value capacitors when I get a chance. These drivers don't look fresh and clean anymore after all the flux I've used so they need cycled out anyway lol

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So, I pulled the bleeder resistors off the drivers and I'm still getting a parasitic drain. Has to be a bad component on the drivers. They weren't doing this before so I wonder if something in the lighted tailcaps caused the failure? 

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How much parasitic drain? The lvp circuit lets some current through, but normally the tail switch stops that when the light is off. Since we essentially bypassed the tail switch with the LTC, it allows the lvp voltage divider to drain some.

My Favorite Modded Lights: X6R, S8 , X2R , M6, SP03

Major Projects:  Illuminated Tailcap, TripleDown/TripleStack Driver

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I have had issues with the Convoy S2 triple that I built.  If I run it on high for very long and then shift modes, I do not always get the mode I want.  Sometimes it is back to ML or further back to battery check.  I am pretty sure it is a heat issue, if I avoid the top 2 modes things stay good and a couple minute cooldown brings back normal function.  Bear in mind, this is a triple on solid copper with a FET+1 running BLF A6, a lighted tailcap battery + contact is a copper disk and tailcap spring is bypassed.  I run it with a 30q, so the power is flowing freely!  Draws about 5.2 amps at start on high!

It serves duty as my nightstand light and an occasional holy crap light when someone wants to see one.

EDC rotation:
FW1A, LH351D 4000k (second favorite)
FW3A, LH351D 3500k
FW3A, SST20 FD2 4000k
FW3A, Nichia 4000k sw40 r9080 (favorite light!)
FW3A, Cree XP-L Hi 5A3
Emisar D4V2, SST20 4000k
S2+, XM-L2 T6 4C

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Alright, this version is a little different. This time the led’s (4 of them) will be mounted on a ring that’s designed to replace the clear/translucent washers we have been making. You should still be able to use the older versions as the bottom pcb’s for the switch, but I also made a new main pcb with larger solder points to attach wires to connect the two boards. On my version of the bottom board the pots will be basically inaccessible once you stack the top board, but pyro’s bottom-pot board obviously won’t have that problem.

Here they are.

edit: added to OP

My Favorite Modded Lights: X6R, S8 , X2R , M6, SP03

Major Projects:  Illuminated Tailcap, TripleDown/TripleStack Driver

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