D.I.Y. Illuminated tailcap

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Halo...
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You could add programing pads. Just pads for pogo pins if nothing else.

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DB Custom wrote:
You really should look at the MMU MCU… The downside is that you have to mount it on a flash board then remove it and put it on the driver. Can’t flash it on the driver for changes.

Which is exactly why I hate it. I’ll test out the concept with the full-size mcu on the 19mm board. If it works, I’ll make an mmu version for the smaller sized caps for other people to use. But personally, I’d rather use a “dumb” tailcap than mess with those mmu’s. To each their own I guess. (I only have maybe one flashlight that uses a 14mm boot anyways)

My Favorite Modded Lights: X6R, S8 , X2R , M6, SP03

Major Projects:  Illuminated Tailcap, TripleDown/TripleStack Driver

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pilotdog68 wrote:
And here is the Rev5 board for 14mm tail boots.

I think it looks a little like Captain America’s shield.

I think I foresee several of these in my future…

… unless, of course, a 14mm version of the MCU-driven version pans out.

I wonder where to get a variety of LED colors. If I make a bunch of the non-smart ones, it might be nice to make them… hmm… maybe purple.

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I wanted to do purple as well!

Are you looking for real purple (red/blue mix) or are you ok with ultraviolet ~405nm? UV is available on ebay and other places but purple leds which use a colored phosphor are really rare, mouser doesn’t even have any in a small smd size. But alternating red and blue leds would probably look pretty cool. A problem with UV is that since it’s at the edge of our visual spectrum you’d have to turn up the brightness (and current draw).

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I was hoping for a true magenta color, but a red/blue mix would probably be okay too. UV usually needs way too much power.

I’m really tempted to start writing code for the fancier tail board. I could probably have it working before Oshpark even ships the prototypes.

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Problem is that there is no magenta wavelength in the visible spectrum. It’s made by mixing. All the normal direct color leds are specific wavelengths. The few non-direct colors are made with blue leds exciting a phosphor to create a mix. White, pink and a couple rare purples. I guess there isn’t enough of a market for magenta or purples. Pinks are cheap and easy to get.

Another option would be a white led with a filter over it. Colored markers can work good enough. You can color layers of scotch tape to get the color darker than a single layer of ink will do.

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For the record I had bought some of the UV/purple leds from lighthouse, and I couldn’t get them to work in the tail.

My Favorite Modded Lights: X6R, S8 , X2R , M6, SP03

Major Projects:  Illuminated Tailcap, TripleDown/TripleStack Driver

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I have a 405nm purple  lighted tailcap in my 365nm flashlight (a BLF-A6 with led4power's led@700mA and ZWB2-filter). I bought the 603 leds on ebay.

Thanks pd68 for the 14mm dumb boards, they look awesome, I ordered it! Smile

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mattlward wrote:
I am not surprised, the triple that I build it on copper in an S2 and it draws very hard. I suspect that the OTC is heating up and the values read by the ADC are all over the place. I may convert it to a Qlite driver and see what happens. Hey Dog, all these revs… I want the one that will give me multiple LEDS and only replaces the washer… Which one do I want. Standard diameter, not 14mm.

Looks like I need this one…
PD68 Illuminated Switch – 19mm Rev5.1b

Dam, I do not have any 0603 resistors.


Here is a simpler version of the 19mm Rev5.1b. I literally took the 16mm board and stretched it out to 19mm. I’ve named this one Rev5.1, and renamed the 0603 board Rev5.1x

https://oshpark.com/shared_projects/iHPx1bOY

My Favorite Modded Lights: X6R, S8 , X2R , M6, SP03

Major Projects:  Illuminated Tailcap, TripleDown/TripleStack Driver

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Before and after:

My Favorite Modded Lights: X6R, S8 , X2R , M6, SP03

Major Projects:  Illuminated Tailcap, TripleDown/TripleStack Driver

Dusty
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I really like that! I have been following this thread, but have gotten confused. Can you explain exactly what you are using for this?
Thanks

Bug

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this cqnuality goods are really gitd or just cheap good looking ones?never had it in hand..:)

EDC-Mateminco mt04 xhp50 nw,Sofirn If-25a cw

Headlamp-Thrunite th30 nw

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So… I made code to run on the fancy “smart” lighted tailcap. It works on my Ferrero Rocher driver, at least… though it’s a little odd on that driver since it uses red, green, and the FET-driven white LED.

http://bazaar.launchpad.net/~toykeeper/flashlight-firmware/sandbox/files...

You’ll need to calibrate voltage for your board, possibly re-assign pins for the various colors, adjust resistor values to balance the output of each color, etc. And also tweak a few compile-time options:

  • How long should it “spin” at each boot (when the main light gets turned off) before measuring voltage?
  • How fast should it spin?
  • How often should it re-check voltage after the first time? (a.k.a. how long between beacon blinks)
  • Should it act as a beacon, or always stay on?
  • Should it spin again each time it re-measures and blinks?
  • Should it do a full spin or partial spin at each beacon?

By default, it’s configured to spin for a second, settle on one of five colors based on voltage, stay there for a couple seconds, then turn off and enter a beacon mode. This beacon does an abbreviated spin up to the relevant color, stays on for a second, then shuts off. Beacon repeats every 4 seconds.

You could also configure it a bunch of other ways… for example, the loop could just stay on all the time and merely adjust the color as voltage changes. This gives a realtime voltage display while the main light is off.

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Sounds fabulous ToyKeeper, as usual. Beer

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Now pilotdog68 gets to do the hard part — making the hardware actually work. Smile

BTW… As is, the colors from full to empty go: blue, cyan, green, yellow, red. Do you think it should use all six colors instead? Magenta, blue, cyan, green, yellow, red?

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pilotdog68 wrote:
Before and after:

!{width:30%}http://i.imgur.com/wVSh5zx.jpg!

PD that looks awesome! I know we discussed it briefly in another thread and maybe I just missed the follow-up details here, but how did you accomplish that? Or is that done by brute power/leaving out parts?

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Thanks TK. I’ll let everyone know when I get the boards.

Emarkd, I took out the black silicone piece completely. The switch still works perfectly, but even less waterproof right now.

My Favorite Modded Lights: X6R, S8 , X2R , M6, SP03

Major Projects:  Illuminated Tailcap, TripleDown/TripleStack Driver

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Be, er, thoughtful about the 405nm emitters.
That’s close to the edge of perception, for most people’s vision — the retina has to intercept a lot of those high-energy photons before you see a faintly visible color.

From Google Scholar, the lab result:
http://iovs.arvojournals.org/article.aspx?articleid=2357960

Much back and forth among the bloggers, e.g.:

As the talking heads say after any industrial oops event, there’s “no immediate and acute danger to public health” from this sort of exposure.

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That tailcap of the blue convoy is a beauty, PD68! Super nice!

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Both rev 5.1 boards and the rev 6 board. Can’t wait to test that one. So, the bleeder resistor is going to have to change, the old 560 can’t supply enough to run it all???

Matt

EDC rotation:
FW1A, LH351D 4000k (second favorite)
FW3A, LH351D 3500k
FW3A, SST20 FD2 4000k
FW3A, Nichia 4000k sw40 r9080 (favorite light!)
FW3A, Cree XP-L Hi 5A3
Emisar D4V2, SST20 4000k
S2+, XM-L2 T6 4C

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mattlward wrote:
Both rev 5.1 boards and the rev 6 board. Can’t wait to test that one. So, the bleeder resistor is going to have to change, the old 560 can’t supply enough to run it all???

Matt


Mm in my experience the 560 bleeder does fine all the way up close to 0.75ma draw in the tail before the driver starts acting weird. I expect it to still be fine with Rev6, but I guess we’ll find out in a couple weeks

My Favorite Modded Lights: X6R, S8 , X2R , M6, SP03

Major Projects:  Illuminated Tailcap, TripleDown/TripleStack Driver

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I apologize if this has been suggested already. Has anybody considered putting one of these dual LEDs in the tail?

The green has a Vf of 3.3 and the red has a Vf of 1.95. Wouldn’t this work as a “dumb” battery level indicator?

I found a few green LEDs with a higher Vf but they were more expensive. My thought was that multiple greens that fall off at various voltages would allow the light to shift away from green, to yellow (green+red), to red.

EDIT: If we could find an appropriate LED where the lowest Vf is around 2.8 wouldn’t that be ideal? That way when the LED goes out the battery is depleted and won’t discharge any further.

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SciFiFreak wrote:
EDIT: If we could find an appropriate LED where the lowest Vf is around 2.8 wouldn’t that be ideal? That way when the LED goes out the battery is depleted and won’t discharge any further.

It’d be great, but frankly, it doesn’t seem to work that way in my testing. I’ve used these led’s which have a rated Vf of 3.0-3.2v, and even with a limiting resistor in series, they are still giving off a little light at ~2.5v input. Eventually that would stop, but the listed Vf’s are usually at normal operating currents, not a strict cut off voltage.

My Favorite Modded Lights: X6R, S8 , X2R , M6, SP03

Major Projects:  Illuminated Tailcap, TripleDown/TripleStack Driver

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pilotdog68 wrote:
SciFiFreak wrote:
EDIT: If we could find an appropriate LED where the lowest Vf is around 2.8 wouldn't that be ideal? That way when the LED goes out the battery is depleted and won't discharge any further.
It'd be great, but frankly, it doesn't seem to work that way in my testing. I've used "these led's":http://lighthouseleds.com/0805-smd-led-blue-ultra-bright-170-mcd.html which have a rated Vf of 3.0-3.2v, and even with a limiting resistor in series, they are still giving off a little light at ~2.5v input. Eventually that would stop, but the listed Vf's are usually at normal operating currents, not a strict cut off voltage.

At which voltage a certain colour led drops out I found also highly dependent on battery type. Not that I can explain why...

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pilotdog68 wrote:
It’d be great, but frankly, it doesn’t seem to work that way in my testing. I’ve used these led’s which have a rated Vf of 3.0-3.2v, and even with a limiting resistor in series, they are still giving off a little light at ~2.5v input. Eventually that would stop, but the listed Vf’s are usually at normal operating currents, not a strict cut off voltage.
djozz wrote:
At which voltage a certain colour led drops out I found also highly dependent on battery type. Not that I can explain why…

OK, so the consensus seems to be that using the LED Vf to prevent over-discharge probably won’t work. What are your thoughts on the dual LED that should shift its combined color spectrum as the voltage falls?

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SciFiFreak wrote:

OK, so the consensus seems to be that using the LED Vf to prevent over-discharge probably won’t work. What are your thoughts on the dual LED that should shift its combined color spectrum as the voltage falls?

I think Djozz actually tried to jerry-rig something like that. Djozz?

My Favorite Modded Lights: X6R, S8 , X2R , M6, SP03

Major Projects:  Illuminated Tailcap, TripleDown/TripleStack Driver

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IIRC, the dual-LED color-shift thing worked sometimes… but it was awfully sensitive to the wrong things — didn’t work the same on multiple units (or even one unit with different cells), and still didn’t really cut out at the desired voltages. But you can do it if you’re willing to fiddle with it a lot.

That’s much of why I’m hoping the smart version of the tail board will pan out. It can be more more responsive, consistent, and explicit about the cell status. And, if desired, even animated.

Plus, I want colorful shiny things to play with.

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ToyKeeper wrote:
Plus, I want… shiny things to play with.

Basically the BLF motto

My Favorite Modded Lights: X6R, S8 , X2R , M6, SP03

Major Projects:  Illuminated Tailcap, TripleDown/TripleStack Driver

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I can’t wait to see first results of the smart tailcap.

TK, I had a look at your firmware, but due to my lack of knowledge I have trouble understanding what it does… But I think I understand enough to say it’s cool. May I ask some questions?

That colorful swirl… it does it on every boot. So would it start blinking on every short press?

When is the MCU sent to sleep? If watchdog wakes it up every x seconds, basically all the functions like ADC (and that other stuff on page 32 in the t13A datasheet) could be turned off and the port pins can be set to inputs before going to sleep for power reduction, right?

I think we would need a firmware for calibration, right? Could we just use battcheck for that, or would we need something different here?

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Has anyone tried adding a diode in series with the LED to increase the total Vf? that might make the drop off with battery voltage steeper.

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