D.I.Y. Illuminated tailcap

1813 posts / 0 new
Last post
emarkd
emarkd's picture
Offline
Last seen: 6 months 1 day ago
Joined: 04/14/2015 - 22:04
Posts: 1608
Location: Georgia, USA
J-Dub74 wrote:
These gaskets are on the house, compliments of Simon.

That’s awesome JDub, I really appreciate it and I’m sure the rest do too! I’m happy to help with shipping. Also I should revise my “order” since I said a dozen (which I would have happily bought just to have extras) but I actually only have 7 of these hosts. So don’t send me a free dozen at the expense of supplying the rest of the crew when I don’t really need them.

nofear87
Offline
Last seen: 7 months 1 week ago
Joined: 03/07/2015 - 05:40
Posts: 114

How can I measure the bleeded current of my lights without a tailcap? Is this possible? thanks!

zipelgas
zipelgas's picture
Offline
Last seen: 1 hour 46 min ago
Joined: 08/25/2014 - 09:22
Posts: 324
Location: Estonia

Hi!
Can anyone assist me figuring out the ‘best’ bleeder resistor value for BLF A6. The tail lights up nicely with stock driver, but the driver acts funky. I measured 0.24mA in the tail if that helps.
Thanks!

Overkill is just about enough!

pilotdog68
pilotdog68's picture
Offline
Last seen: 1 month 3 weeks ago
Joined: 05/30/2013 - 23:31
Posts: 6422
Location: Held against my will in IOWA, USA

nofear87 wrote:
How can I measure the bleeded current of my lights without a tailcap? Is this possible? thanks!

You mean how much current is bypassing the driver? I think it’s easier to just “do the math” based on voltage and resistance. To actually measure you’d have to isolate it somehow, or disable the mcu so it doesn’t turn on when you bridge the tail with a meter.

My Favorite Modded Lights: X6R, S8 , X2R , M6, SP03

Major Projects:  Illuminated Tailcap, TripleDown/TripleStack Driver

pilotdog68
pilotdog68's picture
Offline
Last seen: 1 month 3 weeks ago
Joined: 05/30/2013 - 23:31
Posts: 6422
Location: Held against my will in IOWA, USA

zipelgas wrote:
Hi!
Can anyone assist me figuring out the ‘best’ bleeder resistor value for BLF A6. The tail lights up nicely with stock driver, but the driver acts funky. I measured 0.24mA in the tail if that helps.
Thanks!

Maybe someone else knows how to predict it or something, but I use trial and error. Try a 680ohm first, and if that is still acting funny start going down from there. 680ohm, 560ohm, etc

My Favorite Modded Lights: X6R, S8 , X2R , M6, SP03

Major Projects:  Illuminated Tailcap, TripleDown/TripleStack Driver

zipelgas
zipelgas's picture
Offline
Last seen: 1 hour 46 min ago
Joined: 08/25/2014 - 09:22
Posts: 324
Location: Estonia

pilotdog68 wrote:
zipelgas wrote:
Hi!
Can anyone assist me figuring out the ‘best’ bleeder resistor value for BLF A6. The tail lights up nicely with stock driver, but the driver acts funky. I measured 0.24mA in the tail if that helps.
Thanks!

Maybe someone else knows how to predict it or something, but I use trial and error. Try a 680ohm first, and if that is still acting funny start going down from there. 680ohm, 560ohm, etc

Thanks for the quick reply.
I would if I could.. but I just don’t have many SMD resistors laying around. I need to get me a value-pack Big Smile

Overkill is just about enough!

pilotdog68
pilotdog68's picture
Offline
Last seen: 1 month 3 weeks ago
Joined: 05/30/2013 - 23:31
Posts: 6422
Location: Held against my will in IOWA, USA

Higher resistance is better for efficiency when the light is on, but lower resistance is more likely to restore driver function.

My Favorite Modded Lights: X6R, S8 , X2R , M6, SP03

Major Projects:  Illuminated Tailcap, TripleDown/TripleStack Driver

write2dgray
Offline
Last seen: 1 week 14 hours ago
Joined: 09/24/2015 - 06:21
Posts: 41
Location: United States

write2dgray wrote:
Thanks again for all of the advice, much appreciated!

I’m liking the size of the 18350 version S2+ for this application in blue, but it appears only the gray and black come with the rubber tailcap. So, to lego something together in blue I’m looking at the following items for the host:

Host =
Convoy S2+ Host
18350 Tube
Convoy S2+ with LED gray

For the LED driver, it would be nice to get a flood with one low light mode (like 10-15 lumens or less). I’m looking at a Nanjg driver with one 7135 chip (380mAh output) programmed with guppydrv which can be set to one mode at 100%.
LED/Driver/Optic =
LED – re-use XM-L2 that comes in gray S2+ host
Optic – 60 Degree Flood
Nanjg Driver w/ guppydrv firmware and (2) 7135 chips removed

And for the tailcap I’d like to go with purple LEDs (will the UV emitted potentially be harmful? should I use one red and one blue LED instead?):
Lit Tailcap =
PD68 Lighted Switch – 17mm Rev 3
Omten 1288 Switch
Spring
Translucent Tailcap
Purple 0805 LEDs x 2
nylon or acrylic washer
+ some 0603 or 0805 resistors for bleed resistor on driver and to adjust LED brightness level at tail

See any glaring problems, omissions, or have better recommendations for any components?

Small update on the plan above – we have light! The host, LED, driver, and optic worked out perfectly. Unfortunately, I’ve ran into a couple of snags on the lit tailcap.

It turns out, the S2+ tailcap with rubber boot cannot be swapped out onto the S2+ with metal tailcap boot, the tailcap design is different. So, you can’t end up with a rubber tailcap S2+ in any other color except for black and gray (only two colors made with both rubber and metal tailcap). As such, I’ve decided the best way to go is to use the washer ring led on the red S2+ I have – a new project!!!

As for outfitting the gray S2+ rubber tailcap, it seems I should have gone with a 16mm LED board to match the original tail switch size as the 17mm PCB will not fit in the brass retaining ring, or is there another way?

jingleberry
Offline
Last seen: 3 years 9 months ago
Joined: 09/07/2015 - 13:22
Posts: 20
Location: US

Where would I place the bleed on a stock S2+?

I also built one with a rev 5.1 board with 1k ohm resisters in a triple xpl with a FET MTN-17DDm driver (without a bleeder), but the LEDs do not appear as bright as the ones shown in this thread.

pilotdog68
pilotdog68's picture
Offline
Last seen: 1 month 3 weeks ago
Joined: 05/30/2013 - 23:31
Posts: 6422
Location: Held against my will in IOWA, USA

jingleberry wrote:
Where would I place the bleed on a stock S2+?

You probably don’t need one

My Favorite Modded Lights: X6R, S8 , X2R , M6, SP03

Major Projects:  Illuminated Tailcap, TripleDown/TripleStack Driver

jingleberry
Offline
Last seen: 3 years 9 months ago
Joined: 09/07/2015 - 13:22
Posts: 20
Location: US

I tried without a bleeder but the tail cap nor the light will turn on.

emarkd
emarkd's picture
Offline
Last seen: 6 months 1 day ago
Joined: 04/14/2015 - 22:04
Posts: 1608
Location: Georgia, USA

I’ve built a bunch of S2+ lights but I’ve never bought one already working, so I’m not sure what driver comes in that light. But if its got 7135s on the bottom of the driver near the positive spring, just drop a resistor between that positive spring and the center pin on a 7135 (they’re all connected to ground). Just be careful not to short anything.

Here’s a photo of one I did:

nofear87
Offline
Last seen: 7 months 1 week ago
Joined: 03/07/2015 - 05:40
Posts: 114
pilotdog68 wrote:
nofear87 wrote:
How can I measure the bleeded current of my lights without a tailcap? Is this possible? thanks!
You mean how much current is bypassing the driver? I think it’s easier to just “do the math” based on voltage and resistance. To actually measure you’d have to isolate it somehow, or disable the mcu so it doesn’t turn on when you bridge the tail with a meter.

Thanks PD! I think I will build a board without mcu to test it or maybe erase the mcu on a complete driver.

write2dgray
Offline
Last seen: 1 week 14 hours ago
Joined: 09/24/2015 - 06:21
Posts: 41
Location: United States

This may be helpful for those who don’t have the proper 2mm thick material around to make a clear washer. I discovered that the 3/4” washers with 5/16” holes are exactly what is used in tattoo machines, here are some on eBay in clear acrylic . They also come in frosted clear acrylic and various other colors :).

nofear87
Offline
Last seen: 7 months 1 week ago
Joined: 03/07/2015 - 05:40
Posts: 114

will it be available separately, that we can update existing hosts?

J-Dub74 wrote:
Hey all,

Simon is working on making that steel S2+ switch more “glowable” for you guys. How does this look?

Anything else that needs to change? Do you usually take care of the washer part or should I try to have him work something out there? Just check out the picture and then ask away. Thanks.

Halo...
Halo...'s picture
Offline
Last seen: 4 years 10 months ago
Joined: 12/15/2011 - 02:39
Posts: 3304
Location: Halo island

nofear87 wrote:
will it be available separately, that we can update existing hosts?
http://budgetlightforum.com/comment/918735#comment-918735
J-Dub74 wrote:
When I asked him to switch the black gasket to translucent I also asked if he would make extra for the people that had been pioneering this and he was happy to do so. He’s having extra translucent gaskets made. I’ll let you know when they are available here in this thread. I don’t know that these will be a store listed item but we’ll work that out.

Once they’re ready, 100 of them are coming my way. I’ll post here when I have them and I will help distribute to those who need them here in the US. These gaskets are on the house, compliments of Simon. I may send in small quantities to key people and maybe they can pay it forward so I don’t have to buy 100 stamps but either way…we got this. Wink

nofear87
Offline
Last seen: 7 months 1 week ago
Joined: 03/07/2015 - 05:40
Posts: 114
Blushing thanks
write2dgray
Offline
Last seen: 1 week 14 hours ago
Joined: 09/24/2015 - 06:21
Posts: 41
Location: United States

I spent a couple hours playing with different LEDs and resistor values with very little success, basically, if you try to use different LED colors with much different Vf then the light output will vary significantly between them over the operating range of 3.7-4.2V. No combination of resistors for blue and red LEDs produced a consistent light output from each LED. Best results are obtained by using all LEDs of the same color (really more same Vf = forward voltage) IME YMMV.

EllaEmma
Offline
Last seen: 4 years 2 months ago
Joined: 09/01/2015 - 08:49
Posts: 85
Location: Toronto, Canada

If I had the Rev3 PCB and I want to use the Rev5b LED ring…where on the Rev3 PCB should I connect the positive and negative leads from the Rev5b LED ring?

I feel really stupid asking this question. Blushing

emarkd
emarkd's picture
Offline
Last seen: 6 months 1 day ago
Joined: 04/14/2015 - 22:04
Posts: 1608
Location: Georgia, USA

EllaEmma wrote:
If I had the Rev3 PCB and I want to use the Rev5b LED ring…where on the Rev3 PCB should I connect the positive and negative leads from the Rev5b LED ring?

I feel really stupid asking this question. Blushing

Don’t feel stupid. The answer is – anywhere you can find the power. To be more specific, I’ve been tapping all my Rev5 ring boards directly to the switch itself, one lead on each side. One side of the switch is always connected to the battery’s negative and the other one is always connected to the body of the flashlight. Press the switch and the circuit is completed. I think the fact that one side of the switch is always connected to negative is pretty obvious. What may not be immediately obvious is that from this point in the flashlight circuit the body of the light, which we normally think of as ground, is actually connected to the positive “bleed” from the driver. You’ll have to do a bit of testing to figure out which side of the switch is which.

write2dgray
Offline
Last seen: 1 week 14 hours ago
Joined: 09/24/2015 - 06:21
Posts: 41
Location: United States

I’ve ran into an unexpected glitch with the S2+ build and the offtime based STAR_1mode firmware when using the lit tailcap. The driver will operate correctly when a battery is first inserted, but if I return and try some minutes later the light will not turn on unless I remove and replace the battery.

If I change to a standard (not LED lit) tail the driver operates perfectly all the time, so it has something to do with the lit tail. Any suggestions on what the issue may be or how to resolve? Will this still require a bleed resistor possibly?

The only changes I made to STAR_1mode were to reduce #define LVP_MIN from 7 to 6, uncomment #define MODE_LOW, and comment //#define MODE_TURBO. Here for reference in case it’s at all helpful now or to anyone in the future :):
https://www.dropbox.com/s/ozgfqq3ejh8lnit/STAR_1mode%20Single%20Low%20Mo...

nofear87
Offline
Last seen: 7 months 1 week ago
Joined: 03/07/2015 - 05:40
Posts: 114

Ist this the correct circuit for rev3 board?

Thanks!

pilotdog68
pilotdog68's picture
Offline
Last seen: 1 month 3 weeks ago
Joined: 05/30/2013 - 23:31
Posts: 6422
Location: Held against my will in IOWA, USA

By default yes, but there are extra traces so you can split the two sides of the board and have a different resistor value for each LED

edit: technically the order of the circuit (where the button is) is flipped around in your drawing, but it doesn’t matter for what I think the root of your question was

My Favorite Modded Lights: X6R, S8 , X2R , M6, SP03

Major Projects:  Illuminated Tailcap, TripleDown/TripleStack Driver

nofear87
Offline
Last seen: 7 months 1 week ago
Joined: 03/07/2015 - 05:40
Posts: 114

Thanks for fast answer….so for default config one resistor for both leds is enough?

pilotdog68
pilotdog68's picture
Offline
Last seen: 1 month 3 weeks ago
Joined: 05/30/2013 - 23:31
Posts: 6422
Location: Held against my will in IOWA, USA

nofear87 wrote:
Thanks for fast answer….so for default config one resistor for both leds is enough?

yes.

My Favorite Modded Lights: X6R, S8 , X2R , M6, SP03

Major Projects:  Illuminated Tailcap, TripleDown/TripleStack Driver

EllaEmma
Offline
Last seen: 4 years 2 months ago
Joined: 09/01/2015 - 08:49
Posts: 85
Location: Toronto, Canada

emarkd wrote:
EllaEmma wrote:
If I had the Rev3 PCB and I want to use the Rev5b LED ring…where on the Rev3 PCB should I connect the positive and negative leads from the Rev5b LED ring?

I feel really stupid asking this question. Blushing

Don’t feel stupid. The answer is – anywhere you can find the power. To be more specific, I’ve been tapping all my Rev5 ring boards directly to the switch itself, one lead on each side. One side of the switch is always connected to the battery’s negative and the other one is always connected to the body of the flashlight. Press the switch and the circuit is completed. I think the fact that one side of the switch is always connected to negative is pretty obvious. What may not be immediately obvious is that from this point in the flashlight circuit the body of the light, which we normally think of as ground, is actually connected to the positive “bleed” from the driver. You’ll have to do a bit of testing to figure out which side of the switch is which.

Thanks for your help emarkd! I’ll give it a go. Also thank you Pilotdog, I love these lighted tailcaps.

nofear87
Offline
Last seen: 7 months 1 week ago
Joined: 03/07/2015 - 05:40
Posts: 114
pilotdog68 wrote:
nofear87 wrote:
Thanks for fast answer….so for default config one resistor for both leds is enough?
yes.

Whats your advice for resistor value when using only one resistor and have two blue leds (2.85V) on the board?

write2dgray
Offline
Last seen: 1 week 14 hours ago
Joined: 09/24/2015 - 06:21
Posts: 41
Location: United States
nofear87 wrote:
pilotdog68 wrote:
nofear87 wrote:
Thanks for fast answer….so for default config one resistor for both leds is enough?
yes.

Whats your advice for resistor value when using only one resistor and have two blue leds (2.85V) on the board?

Based on my experience I’d recommend about 20kOhm. Blue has the lowest Vf of the ones I’ve used and benefited from the highest resistor value to appropriately dim.
write2dgray
Offline
Last seen: 1 week 14 hours ago
Joined: 09/24/2015 - 06:21
Posts: 41
Location: United States

write2dgray wrote:
I’ve ran into an unexpected glitch with the S2+ build and the offtime based STAR_1mode firmware when using the lit tailcap. The driver will operate correctly when a battery is first inserted, but if I return and try some minutes later the light will not turn on unless I remove and replace the battery.

If I change to a standard (not LED lit) tail the driver operates perfectly all the time, so it has something to do with the lit tail. Any suggestions on what the issue may be or how to resolve? Will this still require a bleed resistor possibly?

The only changes I made to STAR_1mode were to reduce #define LVP_MIN from 7 to 6, uncomment #define MODE_LOW, and comment //#define MODE_TURBO. Here for reference in case it’s at all helpful now or to anyone in the future :):
https://www.dropbox.com/s/ozgfqq3ejh8lnit/STAR_1mode%20Single%20Low%20Mo...

Update: Added a 510mOhm bleed resistor on the driver and it operates perfectly now. I thought that the offtime based firmware should not require a bleed resistor for operation :/ ?
J-Dub74
J-Dub74's picture
Offline
Last seen: 1 month 3 weeks ago
Joined: 03/14/2015 - 17:17
Posts: 2231
Location: Michigan

Hey all. The clear S2+ gaskets were waiting for me yesterday when I got home. Now I just need to pick up some stamps. Smile I haven’t really mailed anything in a while. I’m going to send some out in the next few days and I’ll see if I can get Richard to take some so he could just throw them in if you happen to be in the US and ordering something from Mountain Electronics. They come in a sheet like below so you just need to pop them out. Hopefully these will make the glowing S2+ tails a little better.

Once you pop it out you’re left with this:

Pages