I received some clear gaskets yesterday (thanks J-Dub!) including a few extras. If anyone needs one please let me know and I’d be happy to drop some out in the mail :).
Now to get some PCBs on order. I believe it should be Rev5.1b for 14mm boots and I just use this above the stock switch in place of the metal washer? Which ones would you recommend for modding a S2+ metal boot tailcap?
That would be the one! I need a couple, but was on the early list!
Thanks for the quick confirmation and please let me know if I can help in any way.
mattlward wrote:
Well crap! I have an S2+ that is my EDC and I decided to try out one of the new washer replacement tailcap boards. Got it build, it ohmed out well and all of the leds lit on my bench supply. So, I took the 2 led switch out of my S2+ and replaced it with this…
It lit up and worked well, for a while.
Then I lost mode switching! If I very quickly lock out and lock in the tailcap it will switch modes. But, if I half press the reverse clicky it will not switch modes to save it soul now.
What the hell? My meter sees an open on a half press with it mounted in the tailcap. I used 4.7k resistors, so now it would be seen as 3*4.7k in parallel?
Any ideas? Can a switch go bad this way?
Matt
Did you ever get this problem worked out? I’m afraid I might run into the same issue on my S2+ and I don’t need another reason to drink :).
I received some clear gaskets yesterday (thanks J-Dub!) including a few extras. If anyone needs one please let me know and I’d be happy to drop some out in the mail :).
Now to get some PCBs on order. I believe it should be Rev5.1b for 14mm boots and I just use this above the stock switch in place of the metal washer? Which ones would you recommend for modding a S2+ metal boot tailcap?
Awesome. Let me know how they work out. I have more. I’m going to try to get maybe 50 or so in the mail to Richard in the next couple days.
That would be the one! I need a couple, but was on the early list!
Hey mattlward. Was I supposed to send you some clear rubber seals or are you talking about something else? If you need some send me a PM with your address and how many you need. Most of the rest I’ll ship off to Richard.
I don’t recall exactly but it was over 200. I just counted what I still have. 147 left and I think I sent out somewhere between 70 and 80 in total already to those who asked. So, I’ll probably send 100 or so to Richard and then a few here and there to whoever needs them. Anyone I send them to will get more than they need giving the opportunity to pay it forward if another BLFer needs a few. If anybody wants some just send me a PM.
Edit
The bummer is Simon was supposed to send a bunch to djozz too. When I reminded him he said the equivalent of “oops”. He’s going to make some more though. It was my intention for him to just switch over to clear for all the future S2+ models to make these switches easier going forward. Waiting for confirmation on that.
I received some clear gaskets yesterday (thanks J-Dub!) including a few extras. If anyone needs one please let me know and I’d be happy to drop some out in the mail
Would love to get two if you still have extras. Sent a PM.
Well crap! I have an S2+ that is my EDC and I decided to try out one of the new washer replacement tailcap boards. Got it build, it ohmed out well and all of the leds lit on my bench supply. So, I took the 2 led switch out of my S2+ and replaced it with this…
It lit up and worked well, for a while.
Then I lost mode switching! If I very quickly lock out and lock in the tailcap it will switch modes. But, if I half press the reverse clicky it will not switch modes to save it soul now.
What the hell? My meter sees an open on a half press with it mounted in the tailcap. I used 4.7k resistors, so now it would be seen as 3*4.7k in parallel?
Any ideas? Can a switch go bad this way?
Matt
Did you ever get this problem worked out? I’m afraid I might run into the same issue on my S2+ and I don’t need another reason to drink :).[/quote]
I did get it working… the board was bad. I moved all of the parts to another board and started in on the first one with an ohm meter. I found a short on the board that was still there with the components removed.
Hi!
Can anyone assist me figuring out the ‘best’ bleeder resistor value for BLF A6. The tail lights up nicely with stock driver, but the driver acts funky. I measured 0.24mA in the tail if that helps.
Thanks!
A 100 ohm bleeder worked for me. I have to check what resistors I used in the tail though.
Hey all. I just got confirmation from Simon that he intends to go forward with switching the S2+ metal switch inner seal to the clear version across the board but he want’s to do some testing first. Have any of you guys that I sent them to installed an tested them yet? Simon is looking for feedback on how well they work so if you’ve used them please let me know how well they work and if you see any potential issues. Post pictures if you could. Either in the thread here or a PM to me is fine. Also some news for those on the “other side of the pond” as they say. Simon had another batch made and shipped to djozz in Amsterdam.
Looking forward to hearing some (hopefully good) reports.
I meant to install them in my already-modded lights this weekend and I had too much family stuff going on. Didn’t find the time. I’ll get it done one evening in the next few days and report my findings here. I’ve also already sent some out to a few other folks who’ve been working on these lights, but they probably haven’t had time to arrive yet. I’ll follow up with them.
I meant to install them in my already-modded lights this weekend and I had too much family stuff going on. Didn’t find the time. I’ll get it done one evening in the next few days and report my findings here. I’ve also already sent some out to a few other folks who’ve been working on these lights, but they probably haven’t had time to arrive yet. I’ll follow up with them.
I completely understand. Family certainly comes before flashlights. No rush buddy just let me know how they work when you get around to it. I still have to get around to sending a pile of these off to Richard.
Ok, I figured out that the parts do not separate… I feel really stupid at this point. So I pulled a working switch and LED ring from another light to try it and I just get no light out of it. I found that i had to put kapton tape on the 2 solder points for the wires that tie to the switch, the board lights fine. I am assuming that these will have to be really bright to work.
Picture with out switch button installed. No light gets thru, at all!
On the metal switches, it’s definitely more for show than function. It looks awesome, but it does require more light (higher power draw) and it only has a small viewing angle (from the top)
do you have pics how to put them together? I have some understanding how to mod and soldering.
Please help
The S2+ will have just a little light showing through the ring around the metal switch. It will take more power draw for it to be seen vs a light with a silicone boot, and it will be mostly for looks, not as effective for locating the light. But man, it sure does look cool.
Parts:
- Rev 5.1 ring for 14mm boots
- 0805 LEDs in your choice of color (the board has room for 6 on three channels of 2 LEDs each, but I usually use 3 in parallel).
- 0805 Resistors
- Clear gasket from Simon or nylon glove to waterproof.
- Small amount of wire, preferably something small like 24awg or smaller
You do not need the switch, that come in the S2+ already.
The S2+ has that metal switch that I talked about, so it won’t take a silicone boot.
You will need to solder the LEDs and Resistors to the ring, then connect the vias (plated holes) to the standard switch connections in the light. It will not require moving the switch or spring to a new board. It would be helpful to have a power supply or something to test the ring outside of the light to get your brightness set without having to assemble/disassemble the light constantly.
Btw I will be making a new version of Rev5, with pots on the underside of the board, and 2 channels of 3 emitters instead of 3 channel’s of two. That will work better for how I have been using them.
Btw I will be making a new version of Rev5, with pots on the underside of the board, and 2 channels of 3 emitters instead of 3 channel’s of two. That will work better for how I have been using them.
Hello everyone .
I want 2 of these clear rubber seals , where can i get them from?
thanks
It’s a little tougher outside the US a the moment but a bunch are on their way to Amsterdam yet as more requests keep coming in from different parts of the globe Simon is going to list them in his store soon. If you are ordering anything else from Simon’s Aliexpress store just send him a message with your order and he can throw them in with whatever else is being shipped.
Btw I will be making a new version of Rev5, with pots on the underside of the board, and 2 channels of 3 emitters instead of 3 channel’s of two. That will work better for how I have been using them
Here we go, 16mm Rev5.2. One potentiometer per three emitters. Keep in mind potentiometers will probably need to be adjusted before installation in the light, as they will be hard to access once everything is soldered down.
Bridge point “P” (parallel) to put all six emitters in parallel under the same pot.
Bridge point “B” (Bypass) to bypass the pots and directly connect the LEDs to the Pos and Neg terminals (will need to use pots or resistors on the switch pcb, such as the Rev4 board.
Yes!
EDC rotation:
FW1A, LH351D 4000k (second favorite)
FW3A, LH351D 3500k
FW3A, SST20 FD2 4000k
FW3A, Nichia 4000k sw40 r9080 (favorite light!)
FW3A, Cree XP-L Hi 5A3
Emisar D4V2, SST20 4000k
S2+, XM-L2 T6 4C
I received some clear gaskets yesterday (thanks J-Dub!) including a few extras. If anyone needs one please let me know and I’d be happy to drop some out in the mail :).
Now to get some PCBs on order. I believe it should be Rev5.1b for 14mm boots and I just use this above the stock switch in place of the metal washer? Which ones would you recommend for modding a S2+ metal boot tailcap?
That would be the one! I need a couple, but was on the early list!
EDC rotation:
FW1A, LH351D 4000k (second favorite)
FW3A, LH351D 3500k
FW3A, SST20 FD2 4000k
FW3A, Nichia 4000k sw40 r9080 (favorite light!)
FW3A, Cree XP-L Hi 5A3
Emisar D4V2, SST20 4000k
S2+, XM-L2 T6 4C
Did you ever get this problem worked out? I’m afraid I might run into the same issue on my S2+ and I don’t need another reason to drink :).
Great idea sending some to RMM. I hope to get a few myself.
Three Tanna leaves to give him life, nine to give him movement. But what if he eats the whole bag?
Scott
BTW, Kaidomain has 10mm translucent buttons now.
Three Tanna leaves to give him life, nine to give him movement. But what if he eats the whole bag?
Scott
Awesome. Let me know how they work out. I have more. I’m going to try to get maybe 50 or so in the mail to Richard in the next couple days.
How many did Simon send you?
My Favorite Modded Lights: X6R, S8 , X2R , M6, SP03
Major Projects: Illuminated Tailcap, TripleDown/TripleStack Driver
Hey mattlward. Was I supposed to send you some clear rubber seals or are you talking about something else? If you need some send me a PM with your address and how many you need. Most of the rest I’ll ship off to Richard.
I don’t recall exactly but it was over 200. I just counted what I still have. 147 left and I think I sent out somewhere between 70 and 80 in total already to those who asked. So, I’ll probably send 100 or so to Richard and then a few here and there to whoever needs them. Anyone I send them to will get more than they need giving the opportunity to pay it forward if another BLFer needs a few. If anybody wants some just send me a PM.
Edit
The bummer is Simon was supposed to send a bunch to djozz too. When I reminded him he said the equivalent of “oops”. He’s going to make some more though. It was my intention for him to just switch over to clear for all the future S2+ models to make these switches easier going forward. Waiting for confirmation on that.
Would love to get two if you still have extras. Sent a PM.
Replied :), got some heading your way! Looking forward to seeing some more successful mods.
I did get it working… the board was bad. I moved all of the parts to another board and started in on the first one with an ohm meter. I found a short on the board that was still there with the components removed.
EDC rotation:
FW1A, LH351D 4000k (second favorite)
FW3A, LH351D 3500k
FW3A, SST20 FD2 4000k
FW3A, Nichia 4000k sw40 r9080 (favorite light!)
FW3A, Cree XP-L Hi 5A3
Emisar D4V2, SST20 4000k
S2+, XM-L2 T6 4C
A 100 ohm bleeder worked for me. I have to check what resistors I used in the tail though.
Hey all. I just got confirmation from Simon that he intends to go forward with switching the S2+ metal switch inner seal to the clear version across the board but he want’s to do some testing first. Have any of you guys that I sent them to installed an tested them yet? Simon is looking for feedback on how well they work so if you’ve used them please let me know how well they work and if you see any potential issues. Post pictures if you could. Either in the thread here or a PM to me is fine. Also some news for those on the “other side of the pond” as they say. Simon had another batch made and shipped to djozz in Amsterdam.
Looking forward to hearing some (hopefully good) reports.
I meant to install them in my already-modded lights this weekend and I had too much family stuff going on. Didn’t find the time. I’ll get it done one evening in the next few days and report my findings here. I’ve also already sent some out to a few other folks who’ve been working on these lights, but they probably haven’t had time to arrive yet. I’ll follow up with them.
I completely understand. Family certainly comes before flashlights. No rush buddy just let me know how they work when you get around to it. I still have to get around to sending a pile of these off to Richard.
how does one get that metal tail cap apart? I can’t seem to separate the buttons.
EDC rotation:
FW1A, LH351D 4000k (second favorite)
FW3A, LH351D 3500k
FW3A, SST20 FD2 4000k
FW3A, Nichia 4000k sw40 r9080 (favorite light!)
FW3A, Cree XP-L Hi 5A3
Emisar D4V2, SST20 4000k
S2+, XM-L2 T6 4C
Ok, I figured out that the parts do not separate… I feel really stupid at this point. So I pulled a working switch and LED ring from another light to try it and I just get no light out of it. I found that i had to put kapton tape on the 2 solder points for the wires that tie to the switch, the board lights fine. I am assuming that these will have to be really bright to work.
Picture with out switch button installed. No light gets thru, at all!
EDC rotation:
FW1A, LH351D 4000k (second favorite)
FW3A, LH351D 3500k
FW3A, SST20 FD2 4000k
FW3A, Nichia 4000k sw40 r9080 (favorite light!)
FW3A, Cree XP-L Hi 5A3
Emisar D4V2, SST20 4000k
S2+, XM-L2 T6 4C
On the metal switches, it’s definitely more for show than function. It looks awesome, but it does require more light (higher power draw) and it only has a small viewing angle (from the top)
My Favorite Modded Lights: X6R, S8 , X2R , M6, SP03
Major Projects: Illuminated Tailcap, TripleDown/TripleStack Driver
Btw where did you buy your yellow leds? Mine are more orange
My Favorite Modded Lights: X6R, S8 , X2R , M6, SP03
Major Projects: Illuminated Tailcap, TripleDown/TripleStack Driver
Hello everyone .
I want 2 of these clear rubber seals , where can i get them from?
thanks
- George
My Reviews : KDlight C8 / ThruNite Archer 1A V3 / Thorfire C8s / ThruNite TN12 (2016) / Utorch UT01 / Utorch UT02 / Jetbeam WL-S2 (xp-l) / ThruNite TC12 V2 / Massdrop Brass AAA / Manker LAD / Lumintop SD26 / ThruNite Mini TN30 (3x xm-l2) / Qualilite D81 / Nitecore MH20GT / Odepro TM30 / Klarus XT30R / Nitecore NU20 CRI / Ultrafire XM-L2 / Foursevens Mini MK II / Manker E02 / Manker E14 II / Teekland Flashlights / Lumintop Elfin / Thorfire S70S / ThruNite Neutron 2C / Jaxman M8 / KDLITKER C8.2 / Zanflare F1 / Nitecore Concept 1 / Emisar D4 / Astrolux MF-01 / ThruNite TC10 V3 / Amutorch JM70 (xpl hi)
It should be these… The 0603’s are a PITA! I think I will go back to 0805’s.
Yellow LED
EDC rotation:
FW1A, LH351D 4000k (second favorite)
FW3A, LH351D 3500k
FW3A, SST20 FD2 4000k
FW3A, Nichia 4000k sw40 r9080 (favorite light!)
FW3A, Cree XP-L Hi 5A3
Emisar D4V2, SST20 4000k
S2+, XM-L2 T6 4C
For Convoy S2+ i meant
- George
My Reviews : KDlight C8 / ThruNite Archer 1A V3 / Thorfire C8s / ThruNite TN12 (2016) / Utorch UT01 / Utorch UT02 / Jetbeam WL-S2 (xp-l) / ThruNite TC12 V2 / Massdrop Brass AAA / Manker LAD / Lumintop SD26 / ThruNite Mini TN30 (3x xm-l2) / Qualilite D81 / Nitecore MH20GT / Odepro TM30 / Klarus XT30R / Nitecore NU20 CRI / Ultrafire XM-L2 / Foursevens Mini MK II / Manker E02 / Manker E14 II / Teekland Flashlights / Lumintop Elfin / Thorfire S70S / ThruNite Neutron 2C / Jaxman M8 / KDLITKER C8.2 / Zanflare F1 / Nitecore Concept 1 / Emisar D4 / Astrolux MF-01 / ThruNite TC10 V3 / Amutorch JM70 (xpl hi)
a user PM’d me this question
The S2+ will have just a little light showing through the ring around the metal switch. It will take more power draw for it to be seen vs a light with a silicone boot, and it will be mostly for looks, not as effective for locating the light. But man, it sure does look cool.
Parts:
- Rev 5.1 ring for 14mm boots
- 0805 LEDs in your choice of color (the board has room for 6 on three channels of 2 LEDs each, but I usually use 3 in parallel).
- 0805 Resistors
- Clear gasket from Simon or nylon glove to waterproof.
- Small amount of wire, preferably something small like 24awg or smaller
You do not need the switch, that come in the S2+ already.
The S2+ has that metal switch that I talked about, so it won’t take a silicone boot.
You will need to solder the LEDs and Resistors to the ring, then connect the vias (plated holes) to the standard switch connections in the light. It will not require moving the switch or spring to a new board. It would be helpful to have a power supply or something to test the ring outside of the light to get your brightness set without having to assemble/disassemble the light constantly.
My Favorite Modded Lights: X6R, S8 , X2R , M6, SP03
Major Projects: Illuminated Tailcap, TripleDown/TripleStack Driver
Btw I will be making a new version of Rev5, with pots on the underside of the board, and 2 channels of 3 emitters instead of 3 channel’s of two. That will work better for how I have been using them.
My Favorite Modded Lights: X6R, S8 , X2R , M6, SP03
Major Projects: Illuminated Tailcap, TripleDown/TripleStack Driver
Yes! That would be a welcome change for me too
Thanks Pd
It’s a little tougher outside the US a the moment but a bunch are on their way to Amsterdam yet as more requests keep coming in from different parts of the globe Simon is going to list them in his store soon. If you are ordering anything else from Simon’s Aliexpress store just send him a message with your order and he can throw them in with whatever else is being shipped.
Here we go, 16mm Rev5.2. One potentiometer per three emitters. Keep in mind potentiometers will probably need to be adjusted before installation in the light, as they will be hard to access once everything is soldered down.
Bridge point “P” (parallel) to put all six emitters in parallel under the same pot. Bridge point “B” (Bypass) to bypass the pots and directly connect the LEDs to the Pos and Neg terminals (will need to use pots or resistors on the switch pcb, such as the Rev4 board.My Favorite Modded Lights: X6R, S8 , X2R , M6, SP03
Major Projects: Illuminated Tailcap, TripleDown/TripleStack Driver
Hey pdog… can you make the center hole a little larger so that it will fit over the square body switches?
EDC rotation:
FW1A, LH351D 4000k (second favorite)
FW3A, LH351D 3500k
FW3A, SST20 FD2 4000k
FW3A, Nichia 4000k sw40 r9080 (favorite light!)
FW3A, Cree XP-L Hi 5A3
Emisar D4V2, SST20 4000k
S2+, XM-L2 T6 4C
Pages