D.I.Y. Illuminated tailcap

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djozz
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BeamN8 wrote:

i have a quick question I suppose in the same realm of tailcap lighting. On the emisar d1 driver there is a unused pad for an indicator light, or other device but indicator is what im after. What type led should be used and how would I go about doing it for the e switch?


I think that whatever you solder in, it will need adaptation of the firmware too, the standard D1 firmware does not support an indicator led AFAIK.
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I do believe you are most likely right. I just recently obtained the d1 and upon looking through this site found a post that revealed that info. So I wanted to do that modification if it was able. Oh...and it's an honor to have you reply to my post. I've watched and read most of your posts and YouTube videos 

djozz
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BeamN8 wrote:

I do believe you are most likely right. I just recently obtained the d1 and upon looking through this site found a post that revealed that info. So I wanted to do that modification if it was able. Oh…and it’s an honor to have you reply to my post. I’ve watched and read most of your posts and YouTube videos 


Do people actually watch those video’s? I should make more then Smile And it is a good practise here on BLF that new members are helped out with stuff, for we all want more flashlight lunatics, makes us feel normal Big Smile
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[/quote] Do people actually watch those video's? I should make more then Smile And it is a good practise here on BLF that new members are helped out with stuff, for we all want more flashlight lunatics, makes us feel normal :D[/quote]

Yes, i did watch them when i was researching led emitter reflowing  I also seen the blf a6 triangle fix. I believe that is what it was 

Dutcheee
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It was a bit of fiddling around, but I finally got my illuminated tailcap working on my just modded Lumintop AA. New EDC is born Cool

What I used eventually:

*Lexel’s 15mm drvr with BistroHD. Had to be sanded down just slightly.
I Added 1*2.2Kohm (SMD 222) bleeder between + and middle of an AMC7135. The AMC had to be replaced, since the middle paws were missing on the ones from Lexel. I assume for clearance to the + terminal. Adding a bleeder over C1 is easier I guess, but I had already glued the driver on the pill. I wasn’t aware that a bleeder was needed on this driver Facepalm

*XPL HI on noctigon star

*17mm Illuminated tailcap from fasttech. Replaced the leds with 2*0805 red’s and 2*473 SMD resistors.
The transparent spacer had to be sanded down a bit to fit.

*Green transparent tailcap from kaidomain. Nice transparency and no problems with tailstanding.

*Keeppower 14500

The tailcap is perfect for finding your light at night. Basically invisible in daylight. Just how I like it.

I couldn’t measure (0.000A) any current through the tailcap, so it’ll last at least 2,5 months on a full keeppower.



skinny_tie
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I’d like to make a couple of single AA lights with illuminated tail caps for my young kids.

Apart from the Tool AA (thanks Dutchee) can anyone recommend a single AA or three AAA light that takes s 17mm Switch PCB?

I’d prefer no strobe and not too bright. I was originally planning to give the single mode SK68s (with a resistor in series with the LED, but I think they have press-fit switches.
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^ mind that a lighted tail the way it is done in this thread only works on li-ion cells because there is no voltage boosting for the tail leds going on. You might get away with a 2xAA light and red tail leds.

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Hello all,

Here's my take on the lighted tailcap - a simple version (no microcontroller required!) which has two groups of LEDs and two configurable threshold voltages, for example 3V and 2.7V.

When the voltage is above the first threshold, the primary colour lights up (e.g. Blue). When the voltage is between these two voltages, the 2nd bank of LED is switched on and the first switched off (e.g. Red) - this can act as an indicator to recharge your battery! When the voltage falls below the 2nd threshold, both LED banks shut off to increase standby duration.

Also while at it, why not convert your switch to a FET switch instead?

You can achieve single milliohm switch resistances depending on the FET used. sealed The FET board has an onboard tiny rechargeable battery, so servicing is not required once installed! This may be useful for those wanting to increase the durability of the tail switch, esp. on lights with high battery currents.

Please feel free to check out this thread for more information, including OSHpark projects so you can make your own:

http://budgetlightforum.com/node/59550

Hopefully this is useful for some people! I know I'll be using it in my lights. sealed

www.loneoceans.com/labs/

- Next-gen Switching Drivers: Lume X1 and Lume1
- High Power Boost Drivers: GXB100 GAN 100W, GXB172 17mm 50W
- Older: GXF22, GFS16, GXB17 & GXB20

skinny_tie
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djozz wrote:
^ mind that a lighted tail the way it is done in this thread only works on li-ion cells because there is no voltage boosting for the tail leds going on. You might get away with a 2xAA light and red tail leds.

Thanks djozz, I’d forgotten about the voltage issue. Facepalm

I suppose I could use a 14500, but want to avoid letting the kids use Li-Ion cells unsupervised.

A 3xAAA light should work. I put a lighted tailcap in a Sofirn SF30A last night, but it’s a little bit bigger and a lot brighter than I’m hoping for.

skinny_tie
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loneoceans wrote:

Here’s my take on the lighted tailcap – a simple version (no microcontroller required!) which has two groups of LEDs and two configurable threshold voltages, for example 3V and 2.7V.


When the voltage is above the first threshold, the primary colour lights up (e.g. Blue). When the voltage is between these two voltages, the 2nd bank of LED is switched on and the first switched off (e.g. Red) – this can act as an indicator to recharge your battery! When the voltage falls below the 2nd threshold, both LED banks shut off to increase standby duration.

Thanks for sharing your designs loneoceans! Thumbs Up

Building them is beyond my capabilities at the moment, but as soon as my skills are up to scratch I want to put them on all my lights. Big Smile

lumenzilla
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loneoceans wrote:
When the voltage is above the first threshold, the primary colour lights up (e.g. Blue). When the voltage is between these two voltages, the 2nd bank of LED is switched on and the first switched off (e.g. Red) – this can act as an indicator to recharge your battery! When the voltage falls below the 2nd threshold, both LED banks shut off to increase standby duration.

This is clever Thumbs Up

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Is yellow doomed for being inefficient (ie. high current)? I’ve tried 2 suppliers with similar results, and expecting another supply of 0805 yellow LEDs any day now.

Here are the milliamps for my various tailcaps. The brightness of each is about the same, per the perception of me and my family. If one was considered brighter/dimmer, I would change the resistor value accordingly.

  • Orange (.56), yellow (.99), green (.07), blue (.21), pink (.26), white (.33)

As you can see, the yellow current is much higher than the others. I like the various colors, but don’t like how inefficient the yellow is. Maybe I’m having bad luck with where I’m buying them, or perhaps yellow is just inefficient.

I’d rather use my flashlight around the house than turn on the lights.

djozz
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NeutralFan wrote:
Is yellow doomed for being inefficient (ie. high current)? I’ve tried 2 suppliers with similar results, and expecting another supply of 0805 yellow LEDs any day now.

Here are the milliamps for my various tailcaps. The brightness of each is about the same, per the perception of me and my family. If one was considered brighter/dimmer, I would change the resistor value accordingly.

  • Orange (.56), yellow (.99), green (.07), blue (.21), pink (.26), white (.33)

As you can see, the yellow current is much higher than the others. I like the various colors, but don’t like how inefficient the yellow is. Maybe I’m having bad luck with where I’m buying them, or perhaps yellow is just inefficient.


Nice measurements!
Yellow is indeed doomed, they are inefficient. I like the colour and I have used them for the switch of a C8F, looks really cool, but they drain the battery a lot faster for the same brightness as other colours. Blue and pink and white have similar current because all three are a blue led. Orange is also pretty inefficient, while red (not in your list) is much more efficient, I expect it to end up at .20 in your list.
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Warm white is good alternative and it's few times more efficient.

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Didn’t know red was more efficient than orange djozz – so I may swap them out, or add red to another flashlight. And good tip led4power to use warm white instead of yellow – I may order some. When my new yellow LEDs arrive, I’ll see if they are any better.

I did try putting some layers of yellow plastic sheets over the white LEDs, but it barely made the tailcap yellow. Certainly not as yellow/gold as the yellow LEDs.

I’d rather use my flashlight around the house than turn on the lights.

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Another great BLF innovation.
I tried this on a Convoy S2+ with 18350 tube. Took awhile to get the right combination, thought I’d share what worked for me.
I’m using a “BLF X6 driver that comes with a attiny25 and Bistro as the UI.”:https://www.banggood.com/BLF-X6×5-Driver-ATTiny25V-Based-and-FET7135-Po...
I used the “lighted tail switch from fasttech.”:https://www.fasttech.com/products/9627747
The driver has a 470 ohm bleed resistor already installed. The lighted switch has 2- 330 ohm resistors and blue led’s already installed.
These two together would not work correctly running Bistro. It couldn’t detect the off time, no memory and no medium press.
What finally did work, using the 330 ohm resistor from the switch on the driver as the bleed resistor and changing both switch resistors to 10k.
The” banggood lighted switch”:https://www.banggood.com/Astrolux-SCSS-BLF-X5×6-Flashlight-Lighting-Switch-For-DIY-p-1102279.html?stayold=1&cur_warehouse=CN may work as is, from the pics it uses 2-15k resistors.

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moderator007 wrote:
The” banggood lighted switch”:https://www.banggood.com/Astrolux-SCSS-BLF-X5×6-Flashlight-Lighting-Switch-For-DIY-p-1102279.html?stayold=1&cur_warehouse=CN may work as is, from the pics it uses 2-15k resistors.

Should work without a problem

I use two 22K resistors and two blue LEDs on the original switches of BLF X5/X6 kit (wood box)

Sorry for my bad English (gogole transtorla)

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led4power wrote:

Warm white is good alternative and it’s few times more efficient.

My warm white LEDs finally arrived. I put them in a Convoy S2. The S2 lighted switch mod was a lot more involved than an S2+, but worth the effort for the extra throw.

Overall warm white LEDs are good alternative, but not nearly as colorful as the yellow LEDs. Despite the loss in color, the efficiency of the warm white LEDs is worth it to me. 0.99 mA for yellow vs 0.31 mA for warm white is a huge difference – that’s almost a year longer with an NCR18650B battery.

Yellow left, warm white middle, white right:

And finally, I put in a red lighted switch in a Convoy S2+. I think the red looks very nice. It measures 0.46 mA, so a little better than orange at 0.56 mA.

That’s it for now! I feel I went a little overboard with these, but each is unique with different combinations of hosts, LEDs, tints, and beam patterns.

I’d rather use my flashlight around the house than turn on the lights.

gchart
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Looking good!

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Small update to OP to add links to Led4power and Lexel’s versions before I disappear for another few months Wink

My Favorite Modded Lights: X6R, S8 , X2R , M6, SP03

Major Projects:  Illuminated Tailcap, TripleDown/TripleStack Driver

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Thanks PD!
Feel free to update that post with my image that is not on PhotoBucket, but a hosting site that actually works…..

https://imageshack.com/a/img923/7793/ORFIT7.jpg

It’s a small filesize, so it should fit in the collage nicely.

~D

*edit, second try on the link. This should be direct, as opposed to a resized link

have light, will travel

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DrafterDan wrote:
Thanks PD!
Feel free to update that post with my image that is not on PhotoBucket, but a hosting site that actually works…..

https://imagizer.imageshack.com/v2/320×240q90/923/ORFIT7.jpg

It’s a small filesize, so it should fit in the collage nicely.

~D

shows “Unrecognized url “

gchart
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Teaser:

Hopefully this experiment goes as planned Big Smile

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Experiment: successful! Details about the Booster Tail and some other designs can be seen here

gchart
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Has anyone completed one of these yet on a Tool AA?

I need to find clear tailcaps to fit one. I don’t have mine in hand yet. Are they 12mm wide? How tall is the button, 5.5 or 7.5mm? It looks like KD did have some 12mm, but maybe not in clear Tired

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KD did stock some green GITD caps, 12mm x 5.5 I believe.
With blue lighted switch.

gchart
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CRX, do you think there’s enough room to ream the hole out to fit a 14mm tailcap? Would there still be a lip inside?

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gchart wrote:
CRX, do you think there’s enough room to ream the hole out to fit a 14mm tailcap? Would there still be a lip inside?

Could be possible, the internal size is around 16.3mm, the outer space is 15.4mm between the lanyard holes.
Only problem might be the cap squishing out if the retainer is tightened too much
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Cool. Perfect details. Thanks CRX!

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A while ago I have bought orange tailcaps on aliexpress that fit the Tool AA (they have green and black also):

https://www.aliexpress.com/item/5-pcs-pack-Silicone-Tailcaps-for-Flashli...LED-Flashlight-Torch-DIY-Parts-12-5mm-Flashlight/32817853798.html?spm=a2g0s.9042311.0.0.27424c4dNTpPyQ

That is: I bought them for the Tool AA and I assume they fit, but I have not actually checked it since they came in.

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