D.I.Y. Illuminated tailcap

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mattlward
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I am finding this board interesting. Could someone tell me what the prices are for the boards, I do not have an account.

I am also wondering how much cutting and such is needed on the S2+ and on the Solarforce lights for install. Or, does enough make it around the switch to get a glow?

EDC rotation:
FW1A, LH351D 4000k (second favorite)
FW3A, LH351D 3500k
FW3A, SST20 FD2 4000k
FW3A, Nichia 4000k sw40 r9080 (favorite light!)
FW3A, Cree XP-L Hi 5A3
Emisar D4V2, SST20 4000k
S2+, XM-L2 T6 4C

pilotdog68
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Board price is $2-2.50 for 3 boards, free shipping.

I did no cutting to any of the hosts.

My Favorite Modded Lights: X6R, S8 , X2R , M6, SP03

Major Projects:  Illuminated Tailcap, TripleDown/TripleStack Driver

djozz
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pilotdog68 wrote:
Maybe I'm the only person still doing these, but I'll share anyways. I finally got around to making a smaller version (17mm) of the dual-led board. This will fit lights like the Convoy S series and many others. Please note I just ordered this myself so it's technically untested, although it's essentially the same as the larger board. Also added to OP.

I still want to do these, and I ordered the boards a few months ago, but they never arrived Frown. I will have another go with these now Smile

Edit: ordered, thanks for the update pd68!

MRsDNF
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Are these boards on RBD's Oshpark thread? If not it would be good to get RBD to add a link there in his OP. I'm going to order a few just for the smaller diameter. Thanks.

 

djozz quotes, "it came with chinese lettering that is chinese to me".

                      "My man mousehole needs one too"

old4570 said "I'm not an expert , so don't suffer from any such technical restrictions".

Old-Lumens. Highly admired and cherished member of Budget Light Forum. 11.5.2011 - 20.12.16. RIP.

 

DrafterDan
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I have my parts coming in for a couple of these switches. It looks like a fun project!
I’ve never soldered SMD’s before, so that will be a challenge.

Already an update, the resistors and switches came in from Fastech. Oshpark should be shipping my boards by early next week.

I’m sure I will have questions, if you peoples don’t mind.

have light, will travel

DrafterDan
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My boards just showed up. I'm just waiting on the SMD LEDs now.

 Hmm, I can't seem to insert any images today. Will try again soon.

Edit: I think I figured it out.

boards

 

 

 

have light, will travel

pilotdog68
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Good deal

My Favorite Modded Lights: X6R, S8 , X2R , M6, SP03

Major Projects:  Illuminated Tailcap, TripleDown/TripleStack Driver

djozz
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Long ago I ordered these boards before but they never arrived. A few weeks ago I ordered them again few days ago they arrived.

First try on a Supfire S1, I first took out the stock switch which is a different design, I had to add a ring in between the new switch and silicon cover, had to do that anyway because it was to be white plastic for the red led-light to get through, the tailcap was replaced by a transparant one, the pillar was shortened. The brass switch retaining ring is very thick in the Supfire S1, so I had to ream the inside quite a bit to get it clear from the center pad of the pd68 switch board. The new switch was this one, started with testing some resistor values, ended up with 5.6KOhm on the switch board, 680 Ohm bleeder on the driver. The new design board allowed two leds in parallel Smile

 

The careful observer will see that in this picture the leds are the wrong way around, they exploded during testing. Actually during testing I blew six of these tiny leds. That will not happen again because now I now know how to do it right.

For the bleeder resistor I drilled a shallow hole in between the batt+ pad and ground ring, so that the resistor was plane with the surface after soldering.

   

Neat result Smile . I am going to mod this light further (the head is still stock apart from the bleeder R), but this is a nice start.  4V, 6kOhm is 0.65mA, so a 550mA Efest should last about 34 days. I charge it more often than that so that's ok!

Thanks pd68 for the ideas and board, this is a nice little upgrade and a good excuse to fiddle around without having to start on the big hobby-projects that I dread starting, like the DIY contest entry. Sad

djozz
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Perhaps as a small improvement, the solder pads for the switch may better not go all the way to the edge but stop a tiny bit from the edge, then there's no chance for them to short against the side of the tail section

bugsy
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That’s pretty fancy, well done pilotdog68! It’s funny that the ingenuity comes more from BLF than from the commercial manufacturers. Big Smile

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djozz wrote:
Long ago I ordered these boards before but they never arrived. A few weeks ago I ordered them again few days ago they arrived.
Did you contact oshpark about the missing ones? I presume you also had to pay shipping since you’re not in the usa.
pilotdog68
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djozz wrote:

Perhaps as a small improvement, the solder pads for the switch may better not go all the way to the edge but stop a tiny bit from the edge, then there’s no chance for them to short against the side of the tail section


I had thought about that the last time I revised one. Ultimately I had never had a problem with them shorting so I left them all the way to the edge. Shouldn’t be too hard to change that though.

Also, the center pad I left the same size as on the 20mm board so it would be easy to fit a normal sized spring. Do you think I should make it smaller? Or was it juat problematic because of the larger retaining ring?

My Favorite Modded Lights: X6R, S8 , X2R , M6, SP03

Major Projects:  Illuminated Tailcap, TripleDown/TripleStack Driver

pyro1son
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I’m going to order some of these fairly soon, planning to get a 18350 tube light with Nichia 219 with a good moon light mode and this tail light so its easily found. Smile

Pastebin                                      &nbs

djozz
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pilotdog68 wrote:
djozz wrote:

Perhaps as a small improvement, the solder pads for the switch may better not go all the way to the edge but stop a tiny bit from the edge, then there's no chance for them to short against the side of the tail section

I had thought about that the last time I revised one. Ultimately I had never had a problem with them shorting so I left them all the way to the edge. Shouldn't be too hard to change that though. Also, the center pad I left the same size as on the 20mm board so it would be easy to fit a normal sized spring. Do you think I should make it smaller? Or was it juat problematic because of the larger retaining ring?

No, the Supfire S1 has a quite idiotic and heavy brass retaining ring, haven't seen anything like that.

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Djozz, how were the pads size for soldering? They are smaller than on the larger board because I wanted to leave clearance in case the board had to be trimmed. Do you think that was a smart move, or would you have preferred bigger pads?

My Favorite Modded Lights: X6R, S8 , X2R , M6, SP03

Major Projects:  Illuminated Tailcap, TripleDown/TripleStack Driver

djozz
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pilotdog68 wrote:
Djozz, how were the pads size for soldering? They are smaller than on the larger board because I wanted to leave clearance in case the board had to be trimmed. Do you think that was a smart move, or would you have preferred bigger pads?

The pads for the smd thingies were fine for me, I do not think larger pads would make it that much easier. I do have a very fine pointy tip on my solder iron though..

And on second thoughts I think it does help if the center pad for the spring is a bit smaller, it is 11mm now, 10 or even 9mm would be better, most springs are less than 10mm.

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ok, here is the 17mm Rev2 board (thanks to Djozz for beta testing Wink )

>>>> Newer version in post #263

Changes:
- Spring pad changed from ~11mm to 10mm.
- Tiny setback from edge for Batt- Switch pad
- rearranged pads and enlarged resistor pads to make swapping resistors a bit easier (for myself).

My Favorite Modded Lights: X6R, S8 , X2R , M6, SP03

Major Projects:  Illuminated Tailcap, TripleDown/TripleStack Driver

djozz
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Nice improvements! I have two of the last version left, when they are used I will order the new version Smile

Off topic: my girlfriend being away this evening, I finished the Supfire S1 mod:

*sloppy dedomed but fully working Nichia 219C 83CRI on Noctigon

*NanjgAK-47-A1 driver modded with FET (so direct drive) 5%-25%-100% with memory

*reshaped the led retaining ring for optimal focus and to stop blocking light

*tail spring bypassed, stock switch assembly replaced by small Omten on pd68's 17mm board (had to sand it back to 16.5mm to make it fit)

*and of course pd68's colour led tail mod Smile

It is doing 800lm at startup, 600lm after 30seconds. Light is high quality 4000K-ish. Throw is 9.3 kcd which is pretty good for a 18mm OP reflector. On high I have to step down after 30 seconds because it gets too hot to hold.

pilotdog68
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Wow, I didn’t recognize the 219c without its dome. Quite a little barn burner you have there.

My Favorite Modded Lights: X6R, S8 , X2R , M6, SP03

Major Projects:  Illuminated Tailcap, TripleDown/TripleStack Driver

djozz
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pilotdog68 wrote:
Wow, I didn't recognize the 219c without its dome. Quite a little barn burner you have there.

It was my second and last attempt at hot dedoming the 219C: after the dome broke off halfway I started breaking away and slicing with the scalpel until a thin but messy layer was leftover on the die, and then I cut away all the silicone on the sides, including the white stuff, leaving the gold-coloured underground exposed. It works fine though Cool

djozz
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I just ordered some blue smd 805 leds and now I was thinking of using one blue and one red led. The blue one would switch off under 3.2V, with the red one still going, sort of lowish voltage indication, as discussed before. I can easily hack that onto the existing board (will do that), but it can also be build in. This would need a extra resistor pad on the circuit board so that the two leds can have their own resistor. The long middle trace could be left there to keep the possibilty of the parallel leds, and just needs cutting if two separate led circuits are used.

pilotdog68
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How’s this Djozz?
Will work with the led’s in parallel by placing a single resistor on either of the “R” pads, or cut the trace down the middle and the two sides will function as separate circuits. I did the same with the 20mm, and also added the same improvements from the earlier 17mm board.

17mm

And 20mm:

My Favorite Modded Lights: X6R, S8 , X2R , M6, SP03

Major Projects:  Illuminated Tailcap, TripleDown/TripleStack Driver

djozz
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Great work, and clever use of the via's!

With this one you can even make some visible reverse polarity check, provided that the switch is off when inserting the battery: mounted one led in one direction, and a different colour in the other direction, if the battery is wrong it will show a different colour.

Hmm, actually the current setup has that already: battery wrong=leds do not light up.

Btw, would this trick with the bleeder resistor at the driver and larger resistor on the tail board provide enough power to use an e-switch on the tail without too much parasitic current?

pilotdog68
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I’m not sure what you mean. E-switch on the tail?

My Favorite Modded Lights: X6R, S8 , X2R , M6, SP03

Major Projects:  Illuminated Tailcap, TripleDown/TripleStack Driver

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djozz wrote:

Great work, and clever use of the via’s!

With this one you can even make some visible reverse polarity check, provided that the switch is off when inserting the battery: mounted one led in one direction, and a different colour in the other direction, if the battery is wrong it will show a different colour.

Hmm, actually the current setup has that already: battery wrong=leds do not light up.

Btw, would this trick with the bleeder resistor at the driver and larger resistor on the tail board provide enough power to use an e-switch on the tail without too much parasitic current?

Wouldn’t it cease to function when the light is on just like the LED’s?

I look forward to someone telling me I’m an idiot and forgetting something, because it’d be a great option for HO lights.

pilotdog68
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You only have two paths from the tail to the front of the light, the tube and the battery itself. You can’t carry batt+, batt-, and the signal from an e-switch without running another wire. I have toyed with the idea of putting the whole driver and e-switch on the same PCB in the tail, but I think that would require some tiny 0603 parts to get it all to fit, and my Eagle skills aren’t anywhere close to that level yet.

My Favorite Modded Lights: X6R, S8 , X2R , M6, SP03

Major Projects:  Illuminated Tailcap, TripleDown/TripleStack Driver

djozz
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Yes, I see now why the e-switch idea will not work.

Ordered the new version btw Smile

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I just wanted to order parts but it’s not clear for me what are the best parts.

Should I order 0603 LEDs or bigger ones? If I understand it correct the solder pads are big enough for 0805 but you used 0603. why?
I have found that: http://www.ebay.de/itm/121507128509
5colors 10 each white green blue red yellow

I will order some omten1217(or whatever FT ships now).
From cnqg some translucent caps which are linked in OP.

I have some 560ohm resistors in 1206 will these work or is smaller better?

I have 17mm rev2 on order but will also order the newest version with additional pads.

pilotdog68
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Werner wrote:
I just wanted to order parts but it’s not clear for me what are the best parts.

Should I order 0603 LEDs or bigger ones? If I understand it correct the solder pads are big enough for 0805 but you used 0603. why?
I have found that: http://www.ebay.de/itm/121507128509
5colors 10 each white green blue red yellow

I will order some omten1217(or whatever FT ships now).
From cnqg some translucent caps which are linked in OP.

I have some 560ohm resistors in 1206 will these work or is smaller better?

I have 17mm rev2 on order but will also order the newest version with additional pads.

I used a 0603 LED the first time because it was what I had at the moment. It is designed for 0805 size. 0603 will work, but they are just harder to solder and easier to lose.

The Omten 1217 will work with the 20mm board, but it won’t fit on the 17mm. I usually use the Omten 1288.

You should be able to make a 1206 resistor work, the resistor pads are slightly larger than 0805 (but still not 1206 sized)

My Favorite Modded Lights: X6R, S8 , X2R , M6, SP03

Major Projects:  Illuminated Tailcap, TripleDown/TripleStack Driver

Werner
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So I should order 0805 leds…that’s a valueable tip as I have to order things anyway.
I have one 1288 spare but cnqg is out of stock for some more so if anyone knows a good source I would be happy.

I will order the kohm set from fastech which is linked in the OP for the LED resistors which seem to be in this range, but the 560ohm is the bleeder resistor which is necessary I thaught..?

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