comfychair-inspired quick+cheap+lazy single-sided 17DD FET-driver (poor man's nanjg92)

305 posts / 0 new
Last post
bikedude
bikedude's picture
Offline
Last seen: 11 months 2 weeks ago
Joined: 08/08/2014 - 07:35
Posts: 236

Can this driver be zener modded for 6V output?

mozart.f
Offline
Last seen: 2 years 1 month ago
Joined: 05/05/2015 - 21:46
Posts: 135
Location: Brazil

Djozz
Could you confirm that with the qlite it is necessary to relocate the capacitor, mounting it before the diode and connecting it to gnd?
And with the Ak47, is it necessary to relocate the capacitor?

prisma
Offline
Last seen: 1 year 6 months ago
Joined: 12/02/2011 - 11:07
Posts: 133
Location: Germany
bikedude wrote:
Can this driver be zener modded for 6V output?

Yes, I did this for many times.

mozart.f wrote:
Could you confirm that with the qlite it is necessary to relocate the capacitor, mounting it before the diode and connecting it to gnd? And with the Ak47, is it necessary to relocate the capacitor?

No, everything stays in place. Pull off the AMCs and add the Mosfet. That’s it…

mozart.f
Offline
Last seen: 2 years 1 month ago
Joined: 05/05/2015 - 21:46
Posts: 135
Location: Brazil

Prisma, it isnt necessary to relocate the capacitor with the qlite and the Ak47?

djozz
djozz's picture
Offline
Last seen: 5 hours 36 min ago
Joined: 09/07/2012 - 17:04
Posts: 18086
Location: Amsterdam

mozart.f wrote:
Prisma, it isnt necessary to relocate the capacitor with the qlite and the Ak47?

 

For the zener mod, do everything you would do for wight's board, it is effectively the same driver. So I guees the cap should indeed be relocated, parallel to the zener diode.

luminarium iaculator
luminarium iaculator's picture
Offline
Last seen: 12 hours 54 min ago
Joined: 07/07/2013 - 09:09
Posts: 2194
Location: X

This thread goes to my book Smile

djozz
djozz's picture
Offline
Last seen: 5 hours 36 min ago
Joined: 09/07/2012 - 17:04
Posts: 18086
Location: Amsterdam

Does anyone else have this with this driver, which should not work different from wight's designs?:

Two cases of builds with this driver:

1) (small 16340 light with 219C) with the tail in place I get normal behaviour, the light works like a charm, but with the tail removed and while measuring current with my DMM the higher modes do not work, when tapped for the next mode it does that for a flash and then returns to lowest mode. Then I used a 0.01Ohm sense resistor for current measurement instead of the current going through the DMM and all the modes were back.

2) (Supfire F3 build with XP-E2) the stock tail worked fine (and was good enough for this 2A build btw), but when the tail was modded with a better switch and spring bypass, it would not stick in high mode. Low and medium worked but when tapped to high mode a quick flash and then return to medium.

I am not enough into electronics to understand what happens, perhaps if the minus wiring from battery to driver has too much capacity something happens??

ohaya
Offline
Last seen: 3 years 7 months ago
Joined: 03/16/2013 - 19:01
Posts: 5337
Location: US
djozz wrote:

Does anyone else have this with this driver, which should not work different from wight’s designs?:

Two cases of builds with this driver:

1) (small 16340 light with 219C) with the tail in place I get normal behaviour, the light works like a charm, but with the tail removed and while measuring current with my DMM the higher modes do not work, when tapped for the next mode it does that for a flash and then returns to lowest mode. Then I used a 0.01Ohm sense resistor for current measurement instead of the current going through the DMM and all the modes were back.

2) (Supfire F3 build with XP-E2) the stock tail worked fine (and was good enough for this 2A build btw), but when the tail was modded with a better switch and spring bypass, it would not stick in high mode. Low and medium worked but when tapped to high mode a quick flash and then return to medium.

I am not enough into electronics to understand what happens, perhaps if the minus wiring from battery to driver has too much capacity something happens??

In both cases when it doesn’t go to high, those are cases where you potentially may be drawing more current through the FET?

So maybe in those cases, because it’s drawing more current, it’s causing the voltage to sag momentarily which may be causing the mode switch?

Then, in the other cases, there’s more resistance, so less current draw, so no sag, so you can go to high mode.

A lot of maybes, but that’s a guess.

MRsDNF
MRsDNF's picture
Offline
Last seen: 3 months 3 weeks ago
Joined: 12/22/2011 - 21:18
Posts: 13473
Location: A light beam away from the missus in the land of Aus.

From memory some of the original HD2010's had a problem when testing not being able to measure current on some modes with the tailcap off. 

 

djozz quotes, "it came with chinese lettering that is chinese to me".

                      "My man mousehole needs one too"

old4570 said "I'm not an expert , so don't suffer from any such technical restrictions".

Old-Lumens. Highly admired and cherished member of Budget Light Forum. 11.5.2011 - 20.12.16. RIP.

 

luminarium iaculator
luminarium iaculator's picture
Offline
Last seen: 12 hours 54 min ago
Joined: 07/07/2013 - 09:09
Posts: 2194
Location: X

I got one failure out of 10 of this driver. What could happen? I am really not sure cause it worked the night before I tested it. And next day did not. LED is OK.

Since I have nasty habit to hard solder driver to pill only way I could de solder my work is with heat gun, and of course it pops out after few minutes of heating, and so does other components on driver Smile

I guess that I probably did bad wire soldering(22AWG)

I got one very important question for this driver(it is in picture):


Halo...
Halo...'s picture
Offline
Last seen: 5 years 3 months ago
Joined: 12/15/2011 - 02:39
Posts: 3304
Location: Halo island

Question in picture: No, the tab / back of the FET and the black wire is “out” to the led. Ground ring of the driver is “in”. Solder them together and you bypass the driver entirely. Same as if you did straight direct drive with no driver.

djozz
djozz's picture
Offline
Last seen: 5 hours 36 min ago
Joined: 09/07/2012 - 17:04
Posts: 18086
Location: Amsterdam

luminarium iaculator wrote:

I got one failure out of 10 of this driver. What could happen? I am really not sure cause it worked the night before I tested it. And next day did not. LED is OK.

Since I have nasty habit to hard solder driver to pill only way I could de solder my work is with heat gun, and of course it pops out after few minutes of heating, and so does other components on driver Smile

I guess that I probably did bad wire soldering(22AWG)

I got one very important question for this driver(it is in picture):


If I understand the question well, yes the FET will stick better, but you do not have a driver anymore: batt+ was already directly connected to the led+, now you propose to connect batt- directly to led- : direct drive bypassing the FET. The FET is the switch between batt- and led-, the switching is directed by the MCU.

Fixing the FET is a good idea because it hangs on a few thin leads on the side and could be ripped of by the led- wire when assembling the pill, best is to use some epoxy or ArcticAluminaAdhesive or whatever.

djozz
djozz's picture
Offline
Last seen: 5 hours 36 min ago
Joined: 09/07/2012 - 17:04
Posts: 18086
Location: Amsterdam

Halo beat me to it Smile

luminarium iaculator
luminarium iaculator's picture
Offline
Last seen: 12 hours 54 min ago
Joined: 07/07/2013 - 09:09
Posts: 2194
Location: X

Thanks on explanation guys. I am real dummy for some things. But I can always ask you guys. Smile

I use artic alumina(don't know if you guys tried that in this build). But it should be done in right order.

I suggest solder FET black wire before gluing with AA. Why? If you firstly glue with AA and then try to do soldering wire to upper side of FET AA will unstick itself cause it is heat sensitive.

 

One more question... I bend FET legs for better direct contact to soldering points on Djozz picture. Do you guys do the same?

djozz
djozz's picture
Offline
Last seen: 5 hours 36 min ago
Joined: 09/07/2012 - 17:04
Posts: 18086
Location: Amsterdam

Yes, I do bend the legs with small pliers. The last few I did I bended the third leg sideways and included it in the big solder blob to the ground ring (in the OP picture it just hangs loose). That makes it just a little bit extra solid.

ohaya
Offline
Last seen: 3 years 7 months ago
Joined: 03/16/2013 - 19:01
Posts: 5337
Location: US

I have a couple of the ‘generic nanjg with 8×7135 from fasttech.
Does this mod work with those?

Also I have some AOD510 MOSFETs. Can I use those fr this nod?

If so I guess I strip off all 8 7135s, but then what?

Thanks,
Jim

Edit: I did the mod, but not working… No light. Which MCU pin should go to which pin on the AOD510 MOSFET?

Halo...
Halo...'s picture
Offline
Last seen: 5 years 3 months ago
Joined: 12/15/2011 - 02:39
Posts: 3304
Location: Halo island

Just took a look at the AOD510 datasheet for you. AOD510 appears to be opposite of the PSMN3R0-30YLD. So the bottom left pin of the AOD510 goes to pwm.

Instead of mounting it upside down like the PSMN3R0-30YLD you could place it right side up if you have some kapton tape to insulate the bottom of the AOD510  from exposed pads on the driver.

If you have no way to insulate the bottom you could place the AOD510  upside down but it would need to be oriented differently from the PSMN3R0-30YLD.

ohaya
Offline
Last seen: 3 years 7 months ago
Joined: 03/16/2013 - 19:01
Posts: 5337
Location: US
Halo… wrote:

Just took a look at the AOD510 datasheet for you. AOD510 appears to be opposite of the PSMN3R0-30YLD. So the bottom left pin of the AOD510 goes to pwm.

Thanks. I think I figured out what’s going on (in my brain).

Awhile ago, there was discussion about a new version of the EAST-092 driver that was showing up from FT, and there was lots of discussion about replacing the MOSFET on the “new” EAST-092. The AOD510 was one of the ones I think comfychair had found and was recommending, and THAT was why I have a couple of the AOD510s.

Later, comfy started the thread about the NANJG-92, which was making an EAST-092-like driver from a NANJG driver by removing the 7135s and then adding a MOSFET upside-down. The pics on that thread and also the Ebay link to the MOSFET on that thread are gone now, so I don’t know exactly which MOSFET was linked originally anymore, but bottom line is that I got the two things (the choosing a replacement MOSFET for the “new” EAST-092 driver vs. the NANJG-92 driver build) kind of glommed together.

Having said that, since I still have the AOD510s and a couple of the NANJGs, can I use the AOD510 to make a NANJG-92? I think I need to know which MCU pin should go to the AOD510 Gate pin?

Thanks for helping UNconfuse me :)!!

Jim

EDIT: Could someone ohm out and tell me which MCU pin # should connected to the Gate on the MOSFET? I know that it’s the PWM pin on the MCU but which pin # is that?

Halo...
Halo...'s picture
Offline
Last seen: 5 years 3 months ago
Joined: 12/15/2011 - 02:39
Posts: 3304
Location: Halo island

Bottom left is gate which goes to the pwm pin on the attiny, 2nd pin in from the capacitor.

ohaya
Offline
Last seen: 3 years 7 months ago
Joined: 03/16/2013 - 19:01
Posts: 5337
Location: US
Halo… wrote:
Bottom left is gate which goes to the pwm pin on the attiny, 2nd pin in from the capacitor.

Hi,

In the pic in the OP, the “dot” in the corner of the MCU should designate pin #1, then you count down that side then up the other side.

So, if I’m understanding what you said, that’d be pin # 7 on the MCU?

The Nanjg board I have in an 8×7135 one so it’s laid out differently than the OP, so I’d need a pin # since the cap may be in a different place.

Thanks,
Jim

Halo...
Halo...'s picture
Offline
Last seen: 5 years 3 months ago
Joined: 12/15/2011 - 02:39
Posts: 3304
Location: Halo island


Actually, looks like it should be pin 6 Oops
Yet, in the pictures above pwm seems to be connected to 7.But I’m not sure I even know what I’m talking about at the moment. :ghost: I need sleep. Tired The schematic picture is correct at least, fwtw.

ohaya
Offline
Last seen: 3 years 7 months ago
Joined: 03/16/2013 - 19:01
Posts: 5337
Location: US
Halo… wrote:
Actually, looks like it should be pin 6 Oops Yet, in the pictures above pwm seems to be connected to 7.But I’m not sure I even know what I’m talking about at the moment. :ghost: I need sleep. Tired The schematic picture is correct at least, fwtw.

Hi,

I’ve checked and double-checked, and on the board I have, it surely looks like MCU pin #5 is going to the 7135 input (Vdd) pin (== the Gate on the MOSFET replacement)? I soldered the Gate pin on the AOD510 to the Vdd pin on that one 7135 location and ohmed it back to the MCU and it comes up as pin #5 still.

Well, at least now I have light, but I’m not getting modes, so I’m suspecting I’m only getting light either because of a short or because I’m in DD.

Rufusbduck
Rufusbduck's picture
Offline
Last seen: 7 months 1 week ago
Joined: 04/04/2012 - 15:34
Posts: 10389
Location: Golden state
ohaya wrote:
Halo… wrote:
Bottom left is gate which goes to the pwm pin on the attiny, 2nd pin in from the capacitor.

Hi,

In the pic in the OP, the “dot” in the corner of the MCU should designate pin #1, then you count down that side then up the other side.

So, if I’m understanding what you said, that’d be pin # 7 on the MCU?

The Nanjg board I have in an 8×7135 one so it’s laid out differently than the OP, so I’d need a pin # since the cap may be in a different place.

Thanks,
Jim


This one uses pin 6 and This one you can’t tell since the traces are under the blue wire. Still, the 7135’s should tell you which is the pwm pin. With a 7135 at the top of the board, left is output, center is ground, right is pwm input. Output should connect to led- pad, ground may connect to ground ring though many just use the larger tab, pwm input is the only one that connects to the mcu.

Three Tanna leaves to give him life, nine to give him movement. But what if he eats the whole bag?

Scott

ohaya
Offline
Last seen: 3 years 7 months ago
Joined: 03/16/2013 - 19:01
Posts: 5337
Location: US
Rufusbduck wrote:
ohaya wrote:
Halo… wrote:
Bottom left is gate which goes to the pwm pin on the attiny, 2nd pin in from the capacitor.

Hi,

In the pic in the OP, the “dot” in the corner of the MCU should designate pin #1, then you count down that side then up the other side.

So, if I’m understanding what you said, that’d be pin # 7 on the MCU?

The Nanjg board I have in an 8×7135 one so it’s laid out differently than the OP, so I’d need a pin # since the cap may be in a different place.

Thanks,
Jim


This one uses pin 6 and This one you can’t tell since the traces are under the blue wire. Still, the 7135’s should tell you which is the pwm pin. With a 7135 at the top of the board, left is output, center is ground, right is pwm input. Output should connect to led- pad, ground may connect to ground ring though many just use the larger tab, pwm input is the only one that connects to the mcu.

Hi,

Yes, that is what I figured, i.e., the rightmost pin of the 3 pins of the 7135 is the input, so that is the pad I soldered the AOD510 Gate pin to, and I can ohm that back to pin 5 (I think) on the MCU. I’ll check that again tomorrow, but I know that that was the pad I soldered the Gate pin to, so I’m puzzled why I don’t seem to be getting modes.

Jim

ohaya
Offline
Last seen: 3 years 7 months ago
Joined: 03/16/2013 - 19:01
Posts: 5337
Location: US
ohaya wrote:
Halo… wrote:
Actually, looks like it should be pin 6 Oops Yet, in the pictures above pwm seems to be connected to 7.But I’m not sure I even know what I’m talking about at the moment. :ghost: I need sleep. Tired The schematic picture is correct at least, fwtw.

Hi,

I’ve checked and double-checked, and on the board I have, it surely looks like MCU pin #5 is going to the 7135 input (Vdd) pin (== the Gate on the MOSFET replacement)? I soldered the Gate pin on the AOD510 to the Vdd pin on that one 7135 location and ohmed it back to the MCU and it comes up as pin #5 still.

Well, at least now I have light, but I’m not getting modes, so I’m suspecting I’m only getting light either because of a short or because I’m in DD.

BTW, I noticed that comfy’s original post/thread (http://budgetlightforum.com/node/29351) mentions moving a capacitor. Is that still necessary? Maybe that’s why I’m not seeing modes?

Since the pics are gone from his original post, I can’t see which capacitor he was referring to, or where it needs to be moved? Anyone have any idea about that for a 8×7135 board?

EDIT: BTW, re. the question of which MCU pin goes to the FET Gate input, the pic in this post (#61, http://budgetlightforum.com/node/37987?page=1#comment-766436) seems to show air wire connection from MCU pin #5 to the FET Gate input.

EDIT 2: I think I give up. I was going to try a different FET, and ended up pulling one of the original7135 pads off, so I put the new FET on another 7135’s pad, standing up instead of flattened, and after that, I still get no modes. There was comment in comfy’s original thread about some NANJG firmware using different PWM frequency not working (not because of the different frequency but because it used different control method or something), so I’m starting to think that the NANJG I have is one of those.

Rufusbduck
Rufusbduck's picture
Offline
Last seen: 7 months 1 week ago
Joined: 04/04/2012 - 15:34
Posts: 10389
Location: Golden state

Try stacking an extra cap on C1 or adding one between B+ and ground as close to pin 8 as possible.

Three Tanna leaves to give him life, nine to give him movement. But what if he eats the whole bag?

Scott

ohaya
Offline
Last seen: 3 years 7 months ago
Joined: 03/16/2013 - 19:01
Posts: 5337
Location: US
Rufusbduck wrote:
Try stacking an extra cap on C1 or adding one between B+ and ground as close to pin 8 as possible.

Hi,

I haven’t tried that, but I found something (else) that is really puzzling me. I put a scope across the FET Gate and the board ground ring and when I power the board on, it is just constant. I’ve tried clicking a switch, but it stays constant. In other words, it doesn’t look like there is any PWM type signal. Just as a sanity check, I put the same scope across the same pins on an EAST-092, and I see the expected signal (e.g., different frequency square waves for different modes.

I’m trying to decide if I should sacrifice another driver and/or FET ??

Rufusbduck
Rufusbduck's picture
Offline
Last seen: 7 months 1 week ago
Joined: 04/04/2012 - 15:34
Posts: 10389
Location: Golden state

Was the board tested before you did the swap? It’s possible you have a bad or mis programmed mcu. I’ve fried a few boards myself without understanding how or why. Keep trying and keep looking up threads that date from around this time as this was discussed for a few months.

Three Tanna leaves to give him life, nine to give him movement. But what if he eats the whole bag?

Scott

ohaya
Offline
Last seen: 3 years 7 months ago
Joined: 03/16/2013 - 19:01
Posts: 5337
Location: US
Rufusbduck wrote:
Was the board tested before you did the swap? It’s possible you have a bad or mis programmed mcu. I’ve fried a few boards myself without understanding how or why. Keep trying and keep looking up threads that date from around this time as this was discussed for a few months.

Yes, this was a new “generic” NANJG 8×7135 from FT (this is the one with the mode groups via clicking in low mode) and I tested it before removing the 7135s.

One problem is the pics in the original (comfy’s) NANJG-92 thread OP are gone. Plus I’m still confused about something: Even though the pics are gone, I followed that original thread, and I could have sworn that the original mod had the 3 pin FET upside down and the 70n02/3 and AOD510 FETs were mentioned in the thread, so it seems like the AOD510 like I have should be mounted upside down.

Jim

EDIT: The other thing that makes it hard to check/remember is that the link to the FET in the OP of that thread is no longer existing also :(…

EDIT 2: Can someone who has this working post some pics, especially showing which cap to remove and where to put the cap?

Rufusbduck
Rufusbduck's picture
Offline
Last seen: 7 months 1 week ago
Joined: 04/04/2012 - 15:34
Posts: 10389
Location: Golden state

I’ve spent the morning going back in time and found This post by WarHawk-AVG (post 44) that mentions it. I’ll look some more to see if I can find some other info. I’d suggest you google the different fets and compare gate pin locations, that’s what determines FET orientation.

Three Tanna leaves to give him life, nine to give him movement. But what if he eats the whole bag?

Scott

Pages