comfychair-inspired quick+cheap+lazy single-sided 17DD FET-driver (poor man's nanjg92)

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Rufusbduck
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Ohaya, do you recall This post or wight’s response ? A bit earlier in the thread he also mentioned that he thought it possible that a higher value cap should be used to absorb the spike but basically if it ain’t Atmel, it ain’t cookin’.

Three Tanna leaves to give him life, nine to give him movement. But what if he eats the whole bag?

Scott

ohaya
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Hi,

Here’s some pics of my testing board.

Showing the top, AOD510 soldered to other 7135 position because pulled pad off other position:

Top view (you can see the missing solder pad):

Bottom view:

ohaya
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Rufusbduck wrote:
Ohaya, do you recall This post or wight’s response ? A bit earlier in the thread he also mentioned that he thought it possible that a higher value cap should be used to absorb the spike but basically if it ain’t Atmel, it ain’t cookin’.

No, I don’t remember that post specifically – wish I had done this back then when comfy and wight were around :(…

Re. Atmel, do you mean that if the MCU isn’t Atmel that this FET conversion won’t work? I have to check that. As I said, the board I’m using is one of the “generic NANJG” drivers from FT. I was hoping to use that because it does mode switching by clicking rather than using the stars.

EDIT: That post you mentioned was about whether the MCU from a NANJG could be used on the BLFDD board, rather than about NANJG-92.

EDIT 2: One of the things that is really bothering me is why when I scope the FET pins, I get no (or constant) signal? In other words, it’s like the MCU is not working. Either that, or there’s a short to something like +V that I’m not finding

Rufusbduck
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If the FET is This one then your hook up looks right. I don’t know why a different mcu should make a difference except in not being able to reflash it but WTHDIK. It may be that the different mcu is unable to charge the gate on the FET or it may be fried. To test that you could reinstall a 7135 to check it. On boards where I killed 7135’s the mcu was still able to drive the led in different modes but all were variations of moon.

Three Tanna leaves to give him life, nine to give him movement. But what if he eats the whole bag?

Scott

Rufusbduck
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Is the white wire soldered only to the ground ring or is there a via under the tip of it that connects to the led- trace?

Three Tanna leaves to give him life, nine to give him movement. But what if he eats the whole bag?

Scott

ohaya
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Rufusbduck wrote:
If the FET is This one then your hook up looks right. I don’t know why a different mcu should make a difference except in not being able to reflash it but WTHDIK. It may be that the different mcu is unable to charge the gate on the FET or it may be fried. To test that you could reinstall a 7135 to check it. On boards where I killed 7135’s the mcu was still able to drive the led in different modes but all were variations of moon.
Was just about to reinstall 7135. If that works I’ll try w a different type of nanjg, from illumn.
Rufusbduck
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I think the conversion should work but not if you switch the mcu to a different board with different I/O hook ups and you wouldn’t be able to reprogram it.

Lots of members I miss too, those and others.

Three Tanna leaves to give him life, nine to give him movement. But what if he eats the whole bag?

Scott

Rufusbduck
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Hard to tell from the pic but to me it looks like the white wire might be soldered to both gnd and led- which would bypass the FET and lock it in DD.

Three Tanna leaves to give him life, nine to give him movement. But what if he eats the whole bag?

Scott

djozz
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It is another driver than the 105C, but with the AK-47 I have an original NANJG version that uses a different Attiny pin for the 7135gate than a generic version sold by Banggood. So the lay-out is not always preserved.

Perhaps a bit useful, here's a stereo picture and a stereo gif that I posted in comfy's thread, they are still there, these are the original 105C board an Vishay FET from the OP of comfy's thread:

 

ohaya
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RBD, djozz,

If I remove the FET and solder one of the 7135 in, and move the emitter – wire to the normal place on the driver, I get modes.

If I remove the 7135 (again) and solder in FET, and move the emitter – wire to the FET tab, I get no modes.

The white wire is only there to make it easy for me to test, i.e., I hook the – of my bench supply to that white wire and the + from my bench supply to the spring to test. It’s only soldered to the ground ring on the battery side of the driver board (I’ll double check but that was my intention)…

EDIT: I think that I’m concluding that the boards I have don’t work with FETs. The MCU has no markings so I can’t tell if it’s an Atmel.

ohaya
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djozz wrote:

It is another driver than the 105C, but with the AK-47 I have an original NANJG version that uses a different Attiny pin for the 7135gate than a generic version sold by Banggood. So the lay-out is not always preserved.

Perhaps a bit useful, here’s a stereo picture and a stereo gif that I posted in comfy’s thread, they are still there, these are the original 105C board an Vishay FET from the OP of comfy’s thread:

 

Hah! So the original mod DID use a 3-pin FET (looking at your images), right? Now I know I’m not going crazy!

But, do you know which FET was used, because in the original the FET was positioned with the ground tab on top (upside down) so I think the Gate pin for whatever FET was used must be the opposite side/end from the AOD510?

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That sounds indeed like this FETdoes not work well with the 105C gate-signal, in other words: that goes way beyond my expertise. Rufusbduck, RMM or dthoang know more about FET's.

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The original FET wax referred to as Vishay 70N02 . Here's a picture of it right side up, by RMM:

Btw, the middle tab sticking out afaik is also the drain, directly connected to the big tab on the other side.

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@ ohaya;

I have successfully swapped out the 7135's for a 70N02 fet on the generic FT board, so I know it will work, at least with that fet.

In fact, I think it was the first fet mod I did back when this was being pioneered by ComfyChair.

It's hard to tell from your photo - do you still have the diode there (hidden by the positive lead)?

ohaya
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FmC wrote:

@ ohaya;

I have successfully swapped out the 7135’s for a 70N02 fet on the generic FT board, so I know it will work, at least with that fet.

In fact, I think it was the first fet mod I did back when this was being pioneered by ComfyChair.

It’s hard to tell from your photo – do you still have the diode there (hidden by the positive lead)?

Hi,

All I did was remove the 8 7135s, solder in the FET, then move the black wire to the tab of the FET. I remember there was some add’l steps, I think about moving a capacitor, but whas a diode suppose to be moved also? Would not moving those cause the thing not to work with the FET?

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ohaya wrote:
FmC wrote:

@ ohaya;

I have successfully swapped out the 7135's for a 70N02 fet on the generic FT board, so I know it will work, at least with that fet.

In fact, I think it was the first fet mod I did back when this was being pioneered by ComfyChair.

It's hard to tell from your photo - do you still have the diode there (hidden by the positive lead)?

Hi, All I did was remove the 8 7135s, solder in the FET, then move the black wire to the tab of the FET. I remember there was some add'l steps, I think about moving a capacitor, but whas a diode suppose to be moved also? Would not moving those cause the thing not to work with the FET?

Yes, the diode has to be there - I just couldn't see it in your pictures.

What you have done should work, as long as nothing is broken, & it plays nice with that particular fet.

 The cap mod was specifically for the feedback/voltage spike that was causing the attiny to reset, but your not dealing with the attiny on the FT generic board, so who knows if it'd good/bad/necessary?

ohaya
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FmC,

The driver I have is FT part#1127403. Is yours the same?

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The one I have is a few years old, couldn't tell you the part #.

It looks the same going by your pictures.

ohaya
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Hi,

Sad to report that I used another driver (same type, but a new one). I tested it, then removed the 7135s, then added the AOD510, and re-wired the emitter- to the FET tab, and…. I got the same problem, high and no other modes… in other words, the same result as with the earlier board :(…

ohaya
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Hi,

Just so I’m clear, the essence of this was to:

1) Remove all the 7135
2) Desolder the emitter – wire from the board
3) Solder in a FET, with the Gate of the FET going to the Vdd pin pad of ONE of the 7135 locations and the source of the FET to the ground ring on the emitter side of the driver
4) Solder the emitter – wire to the tab of the FET

Mainly, that should be all right?

Rufusbduck
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Yes

Three Tanna leaves to give him life, nine to give him movement. But what if he eats the whole bag?

Scott

ohaya
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Rufusbduck wrote:
Yes

Hi,

Thanks. Even though I’ve already killed (yes, I try to put 7135s back but that was no good) two of my 7135 boards AND two AOD510 FETs, this is still really bugging me, plus I have a light that I wanted to put the FET driver into.

I have two of these:

http://www.illumn.com/8xamc7135-3-04a-selectable-mode-driver.html

rather than the “generic” NANJG from FT (now all gone) so I’m going to try just one more time (right) with one of the boards from illumn.com and an AOD510.

I really hope that that works :(!!!

Jim

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So the boards don’t work if you repopulate with a 7135 when they worked before? Something else going on there as this should be a reversible operation. It may just take a bit more practice to get the soldering neat enough to work properly. It was like that for me and still is since I don’t come even close to the volume of work done by some here. Too much heat for too long can wreck parts. It’s a bit counterintuitive but slightly higher temp on the tip actually dumps less heat into the components because the solder wets more quickly, especially with flux added.

Please realize I’m grasping at straws right along with you and only trying to point out possible failure points. I mentioned the white wire above, did you ever check continuity for a short from led- to ground?

Three Tanna leaves to give him life, nine to give him movement. But what if he eats the whole bag?

Scott

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A tip for removing the 7135’s quickly and easily is to flux the chip pins and have enough solder on the iron tip to bridge all three pins so that the pads all wet at once then swipe the chip sideways toward the board edge to remove the chip. Removal this way goes much faster and dumps less heat into the remaining parts(mcu in particular). Something clamped to the board ground as a heat sink will help protect the mcu as well.

Three Tanna leaves to give him life, nine to give him movement. But what if he eats the whole bag?

Scott

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AK 47 driver is Easy Peasy I would not want to bother with other nanjgs and as Djozz described it has great + contact to other + side of driver via vias that can be solder filled.

ohaya
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Rufusbduck wrote:
A tip for removing the 7135’s quickly and easily is to flux the chip pins and have enough solder on the iron tip to bridge all three pins so that the pads all wet at once then swipe the chip sideways toward the board edge to remove the chip. Removal this way goes much faster and dumps less heat into the remaining parts(mcu in particular). Something clamped to the board ground as a heat sink will help protect the mcu as well.

Hi RBD,

Good news!! I put an AOD510 on one of the boards from illumn.com, and it works. Some pics:

- Removed 7135s:

Positioning the AOD510 FET:

About to test:

Success (4.0 amps test):

My new collection of used 7135s:

My conclusion is that there was something with the drivers that I got from FT (a long time ago) that made it incompatible with the FET.

Thanks everybody for your help!!

Jim

EDIT: RBD – I’ve been using a heatgun to remove the 7135s….

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luminarium iaculator wrote:

AK 47 driver is Easy Peasy I would not want to bother with other nanjgs and as Djozz described it has great + contact to other + side of driver via vias that can be solder filled.

I should get some of those, but had this project in mind for this long weekend, and I only had the 2 FT drivers and 2 of the ones from illumn.com (latter were the ones that finally worked).

Best (= cheapest/fastest) source for AK47 drivers?

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The 2-set for 2.5 dollar from dx is sold out for a while. I just bought some from banggood without memory (ak-47-C1), but perhaps for the ak-47-A1 with memory fasttech may be the cheapest: https://www.fasttech.com/product/1122400-3-amc7135-4-group-25-modes-led-...

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djozz wrote:

The 2-set for 2.5 dollar from dx is sold out for a while. I just bought some from banggood without memory (ak-47-C1), but perhaps for the ak-47-A1 with memory fasttech may be the cheapest: https://www.fasttech.com/product/1122400-3-amc7135-4-group-25-modes-led-...

I should’ve asked earlier: Do you, or anyone else, know of a driver that can be modded with FET that has mode groups that can be changed via clicking, rather than having to solder the stars?

That was one of the reasons I wanted to get the FET working with the FT drivers I had (the ones that didn’t work).

Thanks,
Jim

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So…

This is very interesting, but because of my extreme lack of electronic-parts knowledge – Is there anybody who can write this down for a dummy?
What to buy, what to solder, where to solder, which driver works (Original Nanjg-105C from Simon?)

And.. is this useable with the Zener mod on MT-G2s?

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