New Osram Oslon Square, testing a 4000K 92CRI typ. emitter

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djozz
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New Osram Oslon Square, testing a 4000K 92CRI typ. emitter

 

A few weeks ago Osram announced a lowering of voltage for their Oslon Square led, and that in fact production had started september last year already. I did a test on an Oslon Square led in 2013 and was pleasantly surprised by the performance, up to 4A it appeared to work as well as a XP-G2 in fact, but since then I have never seen it in a flashlight.

So I wanted to test the new Oslon Square now. I was looking for the new Oslon Square on rs-online, but the product codes that Osram uses were and still are a mystery to me, and there's nowhere to go for an explanation. So which led was the new one with the lower voltage? I looked up voltages in some datasheets and many probably were the new led. What does not help is that rs-online does not update the images very well, the die of the new Oslon Square has a new appearance. So finally I bought the minimum amount (5) of an Oslon Square led that was labeled 'new' on the site, the GW CSSRM1.CC-MQMS-5L7N-1-700-R18. And it is an interesting led indeed, 4000K and 92CRI, a direct challenge for the Nichia high CRI leds. And personally I like 4000K better than the 5000K of the Nichia219b 92CRI.

The test.

The tests that I have done compare this Oslon, the Nichia219b 92CRI, and a cool white XP-G2 R5. The XP-G2 R5 is not the best bin anymore, and is not the newest batch, but you will get the idea and the most interesting part IMO is the voltage comparison and at which current the output peaks. (you can not expect a 4000K 92CRI led to have the output of a cool white so that would be comparing apples and pears).

The leds were reflowed onto 16mm Noctigons (the two boards with numbers on them were used in another test, hence the numbers). Oslon leds do not fit perfectly on a XP-board (the solder pad lay-out is a bit smaller), and therefore the led does not suck tight onto the board like a XP led. Consequently the solder layer is thicker. I do not worry much about that because in another test I did not find significant heatpath problems caused by thick solder layers.

The test was done the same way as I did my XP-L tests, for a detailed description of the set-up see over there. The only difference is that I used my big integrating sphere for this test, but that should not matter much for the results. The light output unit is the 'djozz-lumen', a unit that at least is higly comparable to results in my other tests, and that I think is somewhat near 'real lumens'. But an absolute and official calibration of my sphere still has to happen (when I win the lottery). I stopped the Nichia and XP-G2 test at 6A because I wanted to salvage the emitters, for the Oslon Square I went on until it died (at a bit over 8A). Here is the graph:

 

 

Observations from the graph:

*the new Oslon Square performs better than the Nichia: up to 4A the voltage is lower, over 2.5A the output is better, and it peaks higher and at a higher current.

* the voltage of the new Oslon Square is significantly lower than the XP-G2, about 0.2V over the whole current range. Very nice for the use in single cell flashlights, and for efficiency of course.

*the Oslon Square died when I turned the amperage from 8 to 8.5A, that is almost the crash amperage of the XP-G2, this is a tough led! Noteworthy is that the Nichia survived 6A (during my last test of the Nichia219b I stopped at 5A), and performed equally well after that.

* if I loosely extrapolate these Oslon Square results to a cool white emitter, I think it overtakes the XP-G2 R5 in output (and at a 0.2 lower voltage!), and perhaps even the higher XP-G2 bins?(wishful thinking). At least with these lower voltages I think the XP-G2 will be outperformed by the new Oslon Square in high current single cell flashlights, like DD-FET-driver triple led builds. A new test of a cool white Oslon Square against a top bin XP-G2 would give more information, but I am not planning on that myself.

 

A mod with this led.

And now for the difficult part, the tint judgement. 4000K 92CRI should give extremely pleasant light Smile Objective judgement is difficult because I have no equipment to measure tint and CRI, it will be a subjective observation. For this the led needed to be inside a flashlight. I had a Lucky Sun EDC mini20 flashlight still unmodded, this would be the candidate: pocketable and a bit throwy, the low voltage of the Oslon should get the max out of a 16340 battery.

 

The mod will involve this new Oslon Square 4000K 92CRI, a FET-modded AK-47 direct driver, and a tailspring bypass. First the spring. As others have noted, there is no way to get to the tail section of this flashlight, too tight, no grip and glued. So I had to do the tail spring bypass (with 18AWG silicone wire) through the battery tube, imagine soldering through a tube? Sick

Is this through-tube spring bypassing a BLF-first? Smile

The Lucky Sun driver that came out looks like a pretty nice direct drive FET-driver too (2 parallel little FETS with 0.5 Ohms of current limiting):

Anyway, it was replaced by this type, as described in this thread, I used the FET from Ebay:

(stereo image)

I used short 2cm 22AWG ledwires. This flashlight has no pill, the ledboard sits on a shelf that is one part with the body. That shelf is anodised and although I have not seen direct tests yet that prove that that is detrimental for the heat path, I did some sanding on it to thin the anodising a bit. The shelf has also a shallow dip in the middle, I worried less about that. The 16mm ledboard fitted snugly in the head and so did the reflector, so centering the led with a special XP centering piece was not neccessary, I used the stock one (the Oslon is smaller than a XP led, so even a XP centering piece would not have worked). As usual, the solder blobs had to be as flat and as far to the outside of the board as possible to prevent shorting with the reflector. The result:

I tried to judge the tint for a while, also comparing it with other flashlights: it is indeed very pleasant and you can see it reproduces colours very well, wood tints and foods looks very natural, it is more 'green' than both the Nichia 219A 92CRI and the Nichia 219B 92CRI, the Nichia's look more 'rosy'. But compared to my ugly green Olight S20 it is very nice and rosy again Smile It is a matter of taste if you like Nichia's rosy tints better or this Oslon tint.

BTW, if you ask why I do not show comparing tint shots: it is my longterm experience that in pictures real tints are not at all reproduced well, it would confuse more than help the comparison.

 

Beamshots

Two white wall shots from 2 meters, daylight setting on my phone camera, first normal exposure, the second underexposed to show the real spotsize:

 

A very smooth throwy beam in principle, but that ring has to go sometime, by blackening the inside of the stainless steel bezel.

Outside, Trusty Test Tree in winter at 23 meters. Left is the control. The right picture shows this LuckySun mod on the right, on the left (for fun) a dedomed XP-E2 modded Cofly KX-H10 zoomie (43kcd) :

 

Numbers (on a freshly charged AW 16340 IMR battery) :

*Light output on high setting: 615 lumen at start, 472 lumen after 30 seconds (23% drop in 30 seconds Frown: the heatsinking of this mod appears not great, have to look into that again)

*Throw at high setting, measured with after 30 seconds: 12.8 klux@1 meter. Now that is nice for a small pocket flashlight, especially in 4000K 92CRI Smile

*current at the tail (bypassing the switch): 4.47A at start, 3.93A after 30 seconds (12% current drop in 30 seconds, so half of the light output drop is a heating-up effect, 11% heat sag in 30 seconds may not be that bad for a small led driven at 16W after all..)

I have to improve the heatpath near the ledboard sometime, but I think this mod worked out very nicely Smile

 

Conclusion:

It is time for Cree to come out with a 'new' XP-G2, it is getting outperformed by other leds now. And for the tint snobs, this new Osram Oslon Square 4000K 92CRI is a great addition to what is out there: more output in 92CRI. I have three of these emitter leftover and I think they are going as a triple into a direct driven EagleEyeX6 one of these days, I hope to get 1800 lumen of lovely tinted light.

Thanks for reading Smile

Edited by: djozz on 03/19/2015 - 04:08
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Thank you Djozz, very interesting and informative as always!

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Does it look easy to dedome? and what about the price, any better than xpg2? Would be nice to see the numbers of a cooler bin, to select a fair winner of the comparison, but that low vf looks great for single cell throwers (thinking now on that 1504 group buy)
Edit: thanks for the information!

Mooooooo

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I hope you don't get sick of me telling you what invaluable information you supply us all here. On more than one occasion I have referenced your material and more than once interpreted your graphs incorrectly causing me so much grief. Orsm work again, thanks.

 

djozz quotes, "it came with chinese lettering that is chinese to me".

                      "My man mousehole needs one too"

old4570 said "I'm not an expert , so don't suffer from any such technical restrictions".

Old-Lumens. Highly admired and cherished member of Budget Light Forum. 11.5.2011 - 20.12.16. RIP.

 

pilotdog68
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I wonder what kind of beam this would give in a zoomie…

My Favorite Modded Lights: X6R, S8 , X2R , M6, SP03

Major Projects:  Illuminated Tailcap, TripleDown/TripleStack Driver

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pilotdog68 wrote:
I wonder what kind of beam this would give in a zoomie…

It’s a shame about those two darker notches in the die, otherwise it could be a very nice candidate for an aspheric/lens light. That strange flattened dome profile seems to present an even and round die image from the front.
At least looks like it to me from these images.

Awesome testing work as usual Djozz, always enjoy reading about these new emitters and seeing them put through their paces properly. Beer

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Even with the notches, it’s still streets ahead of a square grid Wink

My Favorite Modded Lights: X6R, S8 , X2R , M6, SP03

Major Projects:  Illuminated Tailcap, TripleDown/TripleStack Driver

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pilotdog68 wrote:
Even with the notches, it’s still streets ahead of a square grid Wink

Indeed Smile

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Thanks djozz Smile these look interesting,

I look forward to when some of us starts to dedome these or maybe more likely the colder versions for some XP-G2 comparison thrower action Smile

Come on Cree give us a XP-G3 Big Smile with some extra fat bond wires so we can over drive them like crazy, you can’t let the competition sneak up on you like this Wink

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cajampa wrote:
Thanks djozz Smile these look interesting,

I look forward to when some of us starts to dedome these or maybe more likely the colder versions for some XP-G2 comparison thrower action Smile

Come on Cree give us a XP-G3 Big Smile with some extra fat bond wires so we can over drive them like crazy, you can’t let the competition sneak up on you like this Wink

This sounds great! These fit on an XPG star?

Where do I buy the correct one?

djozz
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Firelight2 wrote:
This sounds great! These fit on an XPG star? Where do I buy the correct one?

These fit on a XP-star with some extra care. You better not start with a big surplus of solder and then squeeze out the excess, like you can do with Cree XP-leds, but use a moderate amount of solder, and gently push the led into the middle, then you get a decent reflow.

This exact led can be had at RS-online and Digikey, for the partnumber see the OP, they will have others tints and bins as well.

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Firelight2 wrote:
cajampa wrote:
Thanks djozz Smile these look interesting, I look forward to when some of us starts to dedome these or maybe more likely the colder versions for some XP-G2 comparison thrower action Smile Come on Cree give us a XP-G3 Big Smile with some extra fat bond wires so we can over drive them like crazy, you can't let the competition sneak up on you like this ;)
This sounds great! These fit on an XPG star? Where do I buy the correct one?

I am a bit doubtful if these can be dedomed succesfully, unlike the first gen. Squares the phosfor looks blended with the silicone. I have none spare for a dedome test at the moment.

djozz
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totilde wrote:
Does it look easy to dedome? and what about the price, any better than xpg2? Would be nice to see the numbers of a cooler bin, to select a fair winner of the comparison, but that low vf looks great for single cell throwers (thinking now on that 1504 group buy) Edit: thanks for the information!

I paid (with shipping included) about $3 per emitter, about XP-G2 level I guess. Dedoming this one does not look promising, see post above, who is going to try? Smile

djozz
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MRsDNF wrote:

I hope you don't get sick of me telling you what invaluable information you supply us all here. On more than one occasion I have referenced your material and more than once interpreted your graphs incorrectly causing me so much grief. Orsm work again, thanks.

I can always count on a kind reply from you Steve, I appreciate that!

And thanks for the other replies as well Smile

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Nice work, again, djozz. Much appreciated Beer Beer

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How big is the dome compared to an XPG2? Will these fit inside an unmodified Carclo triple TIR optic?

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Oslon dome 2.2mm dia, base of dome 2.6mm
XP-G2 dome 3.06mm dia

Carclo triple TIR shouldn’t be a problem.

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I don’t need 5 more medium sized LEDs just now, but this looks like real progress. Hooray!

Flashlight designers should look at lighthouses and pottery.
这些谁设计的手电筒应该看灯塔,以及在陶器。

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Thanks for the test, djozz, excellent work. These new Oslon Square look very promising. I hope we’ll see a dtp-copper-MCPCB for them, especially a triple-version.

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chouster wrote:
Thanks for the test, djozz, excellent work. These new Oslon Square look very promising. I hope we’ll see a dtp-copper-MCPCB for them, especially a triple-version.

+1 :bigsmile:

djozz
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As expected dedoming fails: much of the phosfor is mixed with the silicone. I tried the hot method but usually then the gas method does not work either. You could try slicing the dome to close to the die, but I'm not sure if you improve the illuminance with that...

(stereo image)

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I have a headache trying to find one of the new square LED’s on digikey in a cool white. If somebody can find it and post a link I’d appreciate it. Djozz, I couldn’t even find the one that you listed. I found a lot that had similar part numbers but not the same. Like you said, the Osram part numbers make no sense!

Three tomatoes are walking down the street- a poppa tomato, a momma tomato, and a little baby tomato. Baby tomato starts lagging behind. Poppa tomato gets angry, goes over to the baby tomato, and smooches him… and says, Catch up.

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djozz wrote:

You could try slicing the dome to close to the die, but I’m not sure if you improve the illuminance with that…

I think dedoming will always increase the luminance, unless there is an air space between the die and the dome, as with the XP-L. The total internal reflection at the air where the dome used to be reflects light back into the phosphor, making it brighter. The dome in your picture looks different shaped, but that outer surface is just passive optics.

Flashlight designers should look at lighthouses and pottery.
这些谁设计的手电筒应该看灯塔,以及在陶器。

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Pretty cool LED.  It looks like as long as you're sticking to 3A or less the gain isn't huge (except for the lower vF), but you can definitely push it harder!  Thanks for sharing. 

Mountain Electronics : batteries, Noctigon, and much more! What's new? 

djozz
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Fritz t. Cat wrote:
djozz wrote:
You could try slicing the dome to close to the die, but I'm not sure if you improve the illuminance with that...
I think dedoming will always increase the luminance, unless there is an air space between the die and the dome, as with the XP-L. The total internal reflection at the air where the dome used to be reflects light back into the phosphor, making it brighter. The dome in your picture looks different shaped, but that outer surface is just passive optics.

What I was referring to (did not myself very clear, I admit) is slicing the dome off, but leave a thin layer over the die. Any illuminance increase relies on internal reflection against the cutted surface, I'm not sure how much gain that is going to give.

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According to James who sells dedomed and sliced emitters here at BLF, a sliced emitter should be in between a domed and a dedomed emitter, hotspot more intense than a domed one but less intense than a dedomed, but with no tint shift.

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n10sivern wrote:
I have a headache trying to find one of the new square LED's on digikey in a cool white. If somebody can find it and post a link I'd appreciate it. Djozz, I couldn't even find the one that you listed. I found a lot that had similar part numbers but not the same. Like you said, the Osram part numbers make no sense!

I must say that Digikey does not seem to have the nicest emitters in stock, in a glance Mouser's selection seems better. I think for the new gen. Oslon Square you have to look at the datasheet:

-If it is from 2013 it is the old one, is it from 2014, it is the new one, I saw datasheets from feb2014, but the led of the OP has a datasheet from sep2014.

-In the introduction to the new one it mentions 'this is the second generation Oslon square', and when you look at the Vf, the old gen says min2.80typ3.05max3.25, the new one says min2.70typ2.90max3.20.

chouster
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How are things going with your X6 triple square? Still planning to do this? I’d love to see beamshots of the square vs a 219b.

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hmmm. I really wanted to try the GW CSSRM1.PC-MUNQ-5F7G-1. It is a 5700k LED and is rated at 259lm but nobody has it in stock.

I did find GW CSSRM1.PC-MTNP-5H7I-1 which is a 5000k at 240lm (700ma). data sheet is here

comparing it to the XP-G2, its close to the R5 but I don’t think it will beat the 5000k S2, but I don’t have all the fancy testing equipment to say for sure. The S2 is 271lm (700ma) vs the 240lm of the Square. How that looks once the current is turned up and the FV increases….who knows. The fact that it can’t be dedomed and I can’t find the 5700k version may kill me buying a Square. Sad I may still toy with doing a triple in something, but I don’t see using it as a single emitter right now. Not to mention it is 75% of the price of XP-G2 LED’s

Three tomatoes are walking down the street- a poppa tomato, a momma tomato, and a little baby tomato. Baby tomato starts lagging behind. Poppa tomato gets angry, goes over to the baby tomato, and smooches him… and says, Catch up.

djozz
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chouster wrote:
How are things going with your X6 triple square? Still planning to do this? I'd love to see beamshots of the square vs a 219b.

I'm sorry, the idea was cancelled for now, I used one up for the dedoming experiment and now I only have two leftover. But when I do a rsonline order again (can't do that too often because I can only order with them via my work) I will include a few of these again and make the triple.

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I spent a bit of time looking at the Olson spec sheets and did learn a few things

CSSRM1.PC-MUNQ-5F7G-1.

MUNQ is the luminance binning, OSRAM uses letter coding the first two letters are the min Lum. bin, the second two letters are the max lum. bin. MU (min) 259, NQ (max) 330

Same way for the tint bin

5F7G means emitter tint is 5F to 7G (look at the chromacity chart, similar to Cree chart but different tint codes) indicates 5700K – 5500K which is a pretty tight tint grouping.

and the M1 designation is the Vf

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