1xAA with a very low low and a clip.

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transposon
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1xAA with a very low low and a clip.

The title says it all. Ive been looking around for such a light and cannot find one.  Neutral white would be a plus but not a necessity.  Any suggestions?

Ian2381
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What price range?

JohnnyMac
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With a low low I know you're not looking for a thrower. The UF-H2 fills the requirements perfectly.
gcbryan
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The Akoray K-106 programmable (if you can find it) has a good low for a budget model. Define how low you want.

The Proton Pro (more expensive) goes to .2 lumens with a red mode to goes to "invisible" Smile

jekostas
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transposon wrote:

The title says it all. Ive been looking around for such a light and cannot find one.  Neutral white would be a plus but not a necessity.  Any suggestions?

O-light I2/ITP A2/Maratac AA (all the same light)

Akoray K106 programmable (Kaidomain might still have some)

Trustfire F20

All have low modes under 3 lumens and clips.

WastedNihilist
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I misread and thought low low clip. Quark AA has .02 lumens. It's quite neutral compared to my other lights. Already has clip, but you can get a low low clip for it too. It's not really budget though. Not sure your price range.

HBomb
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I'm still holding out for the BLF Tank007 E07 Smile

robostud5000
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a low low, neutral, AND a clip.

sounds like the Zebra SC51w to me.

Ian2381
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robostud5000 wrote:

a low low, neutral, AND a clip.

sounds like the Zebra SC51w to me.

+1, zebralights have the lowest low with run time exceeding 10 days.

CheapThrills
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I have SC51w but beware, neutral can be very warm.

transposon
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hmm, the zebralight is out of my budget, i would like to stay under $30.

SirJohn
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Not neutral, but definitely look at the ITP A2 as that's under your budget and is nice quality.

gcbryan
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The issue is that there are not a lot of lights in that budget range with .2 lumen kind of lows if that is what you are interested in.

The Proton Pro can be had new for less than $40 however.

trooplewis
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I've been thinking hard about getting more AA-sized lights that have a nice low and long runtime, not so much concerned about huge lumens on High, more about long battery life. Something that will run for a few months on a package of AA Duracells if the Zombie Apocalypse comes...

The iTp A2 in Stainless Steel is advertised at a couple of places (Battery Junction and Amazon) for $25 lately, used to be $32. I wonder if they are coming out with an XP-G or even XM-L version to replace the XR-E they use now?

More thoughts on this?

Rats, finally sold my 2010 509hp Mustang...now I can buy more lights!

Sold the red one too! Now guess what I drive, doing my penance for 500 hp commuters...

http://dreammustang.com/

http://i884.photobucket.com/albums/ac47/Ha

okwchin
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I thought the Olight killed the ITP line. Its now just the Olight A2, so far only in black.

XP-G, Cool white, couple of lumen low, $25

"like everyone else - I’m looking for my next “last” flashlight" -  ohnonothimagain

trooplewis
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okwchin wrote:

I thought the Olight killed the ITP line. Its now just the Olight A2, so far only in black.

XP-G, Cool white, couple of lumen low, $25

I love this forum, great information, thanks. That would explain why SS XP-E's are $25.

http://www.amazon.com/Lumen-Cree-Flashlight-Stainless-Steel/dp/B0049QU9E8

I ended up ordering the Olight I2 from GoingGear with the 10% discount code.

Rats, finally sold my 2010 509hp Mustang...now I can buy more lights!

Sold the red one too! Now guess what I drive, doing my penance for 500 hp commuters...

http://dreammustang.com/

http://i884.photobucket.com/albums/ac47/Ha

vas
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Hello all,

This is my first post although I've been a regular reader for many months.

I'm thinking about getting an Olight i2 which has a low of 2.5lm but...

I have an ITP A1 which, according to hkequipment.net, has a low of 1.8lm. However, when it is on the low setting the beam is clearly visible against a white wall in daylight from about 2 metres. Surely this is way more than 1.8lm. It makes you wonder about the accuracy of the published spec. I am running it on a 16340. Is that likely to make any difference to a CR123?

Is the low setting on the i2 a genuine low or will it turn out to be a eye melter?

 

trooplewis
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I just got the olight i2 from going gear. I'm in daylight and no, you cannot see the beam at two meters against a white wall. It looks like a very good Low setting. I'll check on it tonight when it gets dark and give you more information.

I could not find any information that says the Olight i2 can/cannot be used with a 14500. Does anyone know if you can pop a 3.7v battery in it?

This light came with a new Duracell AA, 2 extra "O" rings, and an Allen wrench to remove the pocket clip (which I did).

Only thing that I did not like is the packaging; it is packaged in impossible-to-remove-without-a-razorblade clamshell. Seriously difficult to get it out of the package, even regular household scissors do not cut through the edges of the packaging.

Rats, finally sold my 2010 509hp Mustang...now I can buy more lights!

Sold the red one too! Now guess what I drive, doing my penance for 500 hp commuters...

http://dreammustang.com/

http://i884.photobucket.com/albums/ac47/Ha

_the_
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Olight mentions only 1xAA, so you can quite safely assume that a 14500 is a definite no-no.

=the=

 

vas
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trooplewis wrote:

I just got the olight i2 from going gear. I'm in daylight and no, you cannot see the beam at two meters against a white wall. It looks like a very good Low setting. I'll check on it tonight when it gets dark and give you more information.

Great - thanks for the info - actually I've just ordered the BLF Tank special edition which is supposed to have a good low, but I'll probably still get the Olight. Can't have too many now, can you?Wink

trooplewis
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They say the same thing about the i3, but we know that takes 10440 batteries just fine.

Rats, finally sold my 2010 509hp Mustang...now I can buy more lights!

Sold the red one too! Now guess what I drive, doing my penance for 500 hp commuters...

http://dreammustang.com/

http://i884.photobucket.com/albums/ac47/Ha

okwchin
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10440 can't deliver as much current though, it voltage sags more and you don't get as high a voltage. Its the slight difference that could mean the difference between surviving a minute, and surviving 10 seconds.

"like everyone else - I’m looking for my next “last” flashlight" -  ohnonothimagain

agenthex
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If you just wanted the lowest low in a small package, you can get the fauxtons for like $1 and use 2032 cell in them, then get a real light w/ left over money.

Reading this makes you smarter: http://lesswrong.com/

trooplewis
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Here is the official response from Olight on my question above, if anyone is interested. I've been using 10440 batteries in my iTp A3 since I got in in Feb, and will continue to do so. Seems to be pretty common for folks to use it with no issues.

 

Dear Bill,
 
Thanks for buying Olight flashlight!
i2 can not use 14500 li-ion battery,please note it,the voltage is high,it may damage the flashlight,please kindly note it.ITP A3 can not use 10440 li-ion battery as well.
You can use Ni-MH AA battery for i2.
 
Any question,please feel free to contact me.
Have nice day!
Best Regards,
Eileen Peng,

Rats, finally sold my 2010 509hp Mustang...now I can buy more lights!

Sold the red one too! Now guess what I drive, doing my penance for 500 hp commuters...

http://dreammustang.com/

http://i884.photobucket.com/albums/ac47/Ha

CheapThrills
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vas wrote:

Hello all,

This is my first post although I've been a regular reader for many months.

I'm thinking about getting an Olight i2 which has a low of 2.5lm but...

I have an ITP A1 which, according to hkequipment.net, has a low of 1.8lm. However, when it is on the low setting the beam is clearly visible against a white wall in daylight from about 2 metres. Surely this is way more than 1.8lm. It makes you wonder about the accuracy of the published spec. I am running it on a 16340. Is that likely to make any difference to a CR123?

Is the low setting on the i2 a genuine low or will it turn out to be a eye melter?

 

 

Well, I have the A1 SS and I just tested it with Zebralight SC51 (which is supposed to have genuine OTF values...).

A1 is definitely very close to Zebras L2: 2,2lumen. Way higher than Zebras L1: 0,18 lumen and a lot lower than M2: 7lumen.

 

If it is genuine 2lumen, it is "not very low" if used in dark.

I would say the A1 has it quite close to that 2 lumen mark.

vas
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CheapThrills wrote:

 

Well, I have the A1 SS and I just tested it with Zebralight SC51 (which is supposed to have genuine OTF values...).

A1 is definitely very close to Zebras L2: 2,2lumen. Way higher than Zebras L1: 0,18 lumen and a lot lower than M2: 7lumen.

 

If it is genuine 2lumen, it is "not very low" if used in dark.

I would say the A1 has it quite close to that 2 lumen mark.

Thanks for your reply - Interesting.

I have a Solarforce Skyline 1 which has a variable brighness feature. If I set this to the lowest setting I can comfortably look directly at the LED. I can't do that with the ITP A1 low setting so I'm really not convinced about the 1.8lm spec, unless 1.8lm is a lot brighter than I imagined!

In truth, it's not a big deal. It just turns into an excuse to buy more torchy stuff.

 

CheapThrills
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I´m quite sure your Solarforce can go lower in lumens than 2lumen Smile

vas
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CheapThrills wrote:

I´m quite sure your Solarforce can go lower in lumens than 2lumen Smile

Well it probably can but I've no way of measuring it!

I think the point I'm trying to make is that if the low value on the ITP A1 is dazzling to look at directly, even in daylight, then it probably is putting out more than 1.8lm.

Can you, for example, look directly into the LED of your SC51+ or SS A1 on low without being dazzled?

(For all those youngsters out there - please don't attempt to look directly into a torch beam. It will ruin your remaining good eye...)

 

CheapThrills
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Well, if I look to Zebra at L2, indoors now, medium lightning around, it leaves a mark to your visibility field. I would say too bright to look at with comfort. From arms lenght.

Even 0,18 lumen, L1, is more than "just a faintly glowing emitter" to my eye.

 

Do you have a multimeter? Have you measured tailcap current?

SashiX
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trooplewis wrote:

Here is the official response from Olight on my question above, if anyone is interested. I've been using 10440 batteries in my iTp A3 since I got in in Feb, and will continue to do so. Seems to be pretty common for folks to use it with no issues.

 

Dear Bill,
 
Thanks for buying Olight flashlight!
i2 can not use 14500 li-ion battery,please note it,the voltage is high,it may damage the flashlight,please kindly note it.ITP A3 can not use 10440 li-ion battery as well.
You can use Ni-MH AA battery for i2.
 
Any question,please feel free to contact me.
Have nice day!
Best Regards,
Eileen Peng,

Bump.

Troop, can you confirm this? (found a few posts more with the same thing. Wonder if yours is compatible too. And I have to decide between an old version (ITP A2) or this I2 with R5)

how2
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Buy the Blader SE-1 the low is very low on 14500 and NiMh batteries.

Here are my pic they are on a 14500 battery

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