Review: IMAX B6 multi-battery type charger

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Shopbot
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Yes, that is correct. The terminals can be connected anywhere along the lines. It doesn't necessarily have to be in the middle.

Matjazz
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Can hobby chargers be used to test efficiency of led drivers at different voltages?

Now I see

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Matjazz wrote:

Can hobby chargers be used to test efficiency of led drivers at different voltages?

No, they are designed as constant current devices, not constant voltage devices. There voltage regulation is usual very slow, this works fine with batteries, but would not work very well with a led driver.

My website with reviews of many chargers and batteries (More than 1000): https://lygte-info.dk/

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Langcjl wrote:

Is this how I set up to charge batteries in parallel?

Just make sure the batteries have the same or very close in the same voltage

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Yes, that is very important if your charging cells in parallel that they be no more than 0.5V difference. The sudden in rush of current will be greater due to the imbalance of voltage and thus cause damage to cells that can't handle that much charging current.

benckie
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IMO your better off series balance charging

Shadowww
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benckie wrote:

IMO your better off series balance charging

Not really, series balance charging requires all batteries to be of equal capacity (or else it'll take years to charge them all), while parallel balance charging only requires similar SOC (easier to achieve, especially if you parellel-charge cells that you use in 1 multi-cell light)
benckie
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IMO your better off series balance charging, even more so for muti cell lights

Shadowww
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Even less so, you mean Wink

Balancers CAN be inaccurate (especially in cheap B6 knock-offs), parallel charging will ensure that all cells are at SAME voltage and there can't be any inaccuracies (like with balancers)

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benckie wrote:

IMO your better off series balance charging

Right. I'm working on figuring that one out now. Have to buy the leads first I guess then I will figure out how to use them.

Piers said " ....but who wants enough light, when you have the option for far too much "

MRsDNF
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Ive just recieved my icharger last week. I ordered leads from where Benkie linked to and got magnets of ebay. Just be careful soldering the magnets though as heat kills them. Been playing today with a couple of Flea Bay batteries to get the hang of it. Very impresive. The wiring is not as complicated as it looks once you get your head around it.

http://budgetlightforum.com/node/3490 

post 43

 

djozz quotes, "it came with chinese lettering that is chinese to me".

                      "My man mousehole needs one too"

old4570 said "I'm not an expert , so don't suffer from any such technical restrictions".

Old-Lumens. Highly admired and cherished member of Budget Light Forum. 11.5.2011 - 20.12.16. RIP.

 

benckie
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Unless your making sure cells are the same voltage its risky parallel charging, you will increase the IR of the batteries that will affect the end voltage of the cells and the amount power the cell can give over time as the cells fight each other with sudden discharging and charging to self balance when you connect them.

If you series balance with a cheap clone charger yes it might be out 0.04 volt out per cell, but there is a good chance in you parallel you still will be out around 0.04 to 0.06 volt due the inaccurate calibration of the main charge leads.

Shadowww wrote:

Not really, series balance charging requires all batteries to be of equal capacity (or else it'll take years to charge them all)

I series balance charge 2 x 2400 2 x 2600 and 2 x 3100 mAh cells all at once with in 0.001 volt and still can charge them a lot faster then a xtar wp 2 charger 2 at a time thats with in 0.03 volt and charge them faster then an imax clone.

It also depends on your charger the cheap clones can be slower to balance charge then the more bigger $$$ chargers, but you still will save time if you charge more then one or two at a time. IMHO lower amp charges in series your batteries will last longer then higher amp charges in parallel some thing Ive notice over years of RC.

 

 

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I may have changed these settings when I was screwing around with the charger but I didn't think I went into the NiMH settings. It looks like the default setting for NiMH discharge is .1A and down to .1V, seems to low on both counts. What should these values be? I must have changed them at some point.

Piers said " ....but who wants enough light, when you have the option for far too much "

benckie
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Yeah way to low, i use these settings

AAA 0.2 amp AA 0.5 amp D 1 amp to 0.85 volt per cell for nimh, for nicad's 0.9 volt per cell max.

For some good cheap nimh and nicad battery holders and other hobby charger acc, check this thread out.

http://budgetlightforum.com/node/1767

 

Shadowww
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Why just 0.2A for AAA and 0.5A for AA? They both can do 1A just fine (and test will take much less time).

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I also use 200mA for AAA and 500mA for AA

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Langcjl
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Thanks

Piers said " ....but who wants enough light, when you have the option for far too much "

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Any reason why no recommendation to set discharge final NiMH voltage to Auto? I would think that would be safer for new owners of B6 (N.O.O.B) rather than discharge too deep.

Oh I'm just aking, I'm a N.O.O.B too. 

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Shadowww wrote:

Why just 0.2A for AAA and 0.5A for AA? They both can do 1A just fine (and test will take much less time).

For many reason's slow charging the batteries will last longer, the internal resistance with stay lower for longer, the battery will be able to give more current for longer.

As an RC freak we always fast charge and hammer our batteries with high charge rates (C) and high discharge rates, but if you are not in a rush a lower charge rate IMHO is always best.

Nimh should never get hot while charging.

I charge 4 x AAA in series @ 0.2 amp, 2 x AA in series @ 0.5 amp, 8 x AA in series @ 0.5 amp, 4 x D in series @ 1 amp.

My AA nimh have a recommended charge of 0.65 amps Ive been using them for over 5 years for RC radios, GPS, xbox 360 controllers and a digital camera and they are still going strong, But a set i use for my RC radio i used to fast charge at 1 to 1.5 amps are dead.

I also charge my 18650's like this in series 2 x 18650 @ 0.5 amp, 3 x 18650 @ 0.5 amp, 6 x 18650 @ 0.5 amps,  3 x 26650 @ 1 amp. Single 1 x 18650 @ 0.5 amp or 1 x 26650 @ 1 amp with my hobby charger.

I do have some batteries with the Maxim charge rate of 1C 3.1 amps but i still charge them @ 0.5 amps, i have trustfire flames 12 months old still going strong.

Pulsar13 wrote:

Any reason why no recommendation to set discharge final NiMH voltage to Auto? I would think that would be safer for new owners of B6 (N.O.O.B) rather than discharge too deep.

Oh I'm just aking, I'm a N.O.O.B too. 

Because you will get a deeper charge if you set the limits your self and you can cycle the batteries better it should not over charge or under charge the batteries, plus these clone chargers don't always charge nimh or nicads well.

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I have made a couple of looms up using magnets as per your pictures for balance charging 18650 etc batteries which appears to be working fine. Do you use the same looms for charging NiMH aa aaa batteries in the NiMH setting part of the charger?

 

djozz quotes, "it came with chinese lettering that is chinese to me".

                      "My man mousehole needs one too"

old4570 said "I'm not an expert , so don't suffer from any such technical restrictions".

Old-Lumens. Highly admired and cherished member of Budget Light Forum. 11.5.2011 - 20.12.16. RIP.

 

benckie
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You can but i use these, picures on page one, link's on page 2.

http://budgetlightforum.com/node/1767

With your icharger set your Nimh sensitivity delta to 2mv/cell in the settings menue, now and then i form charge them its like nimh balancing, its in the icharger nimh menue and you can use the same holders from the above link.

Shadowww
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benckie wrote:

Shadowww wrote:

Why just 0.2A for AAA and 0.5A for AA? They both can do 1A just fine (and test will take much less time).

For many reason's slow charging the batteries will last longer, the internal resistance with stay lower for longer, the battery will be able to give more current for longer.

As an RC freak we always fast charge and hammer our batteries with high charge rates (C) and high discharge rates, but if you are not in a rush a lower charge rate IMHO is always best.

Ahem.

Langcjl wrote:
I may have changed these settings when I was screwing around with the charger but I didn't think I went into the NiMH settings. It looks like the default setting for NiMH discharge is .1A and down to .1V, seems to low on both counts. What should these values be? I must have changed them at some point.

Silly

feilox
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just noticed alot of these aren’t sold with the AC/DC plug? JW how much mV it takes @ 12V/24V etc?

Don wrote:
It sounds like the XM LEDs won’t really be suitable for flashlight use. Pity…

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The display says 4.20 and the multimeter says 4.20.

With Li-ion batteries the voltage es 99% accurate.

With NiMh NOT. The screen shows 1.0 volt (i.example) but the battery really is at 1.2…..

Or something… That´s why I have to select (in my unit) 0,7 or 0,8 volt in discharge mode for NiMh

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fran82
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Faulty or not well calibrated

Take into account that they are not geniune

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kreisler wrote:

Technical question: (let's assume you have calibrated your imax b6 with the help of your multimeter)

After the "LiPo" charge process is completed ("4.20V", "FULL") and you measure the offline voltage of the Li-Ion cell (e.g. a 14500 or 18650) with an accurate multimeter, does your multimeter show the "4.200V" too (as one would expect) or is the multimeter voltage reading quite a bit off, e.g. showing "4.150V" only?

 

You have to use the "min/max" function on you DMM and have it connected when you charge. If it records a maximum voltage of 4.2 volt, the charger is doing a good job.

Hobby chargers usual terminates at 1/10 charge current, i.e. if you charge at 1A it will terminate at 0.1A. If you wish to terminate at a lower current, you must charge at a lower current. This will make the battery voltage higher.

kreisler wrote:

I am getting the impression that for round li-ion charging my i4 V2 does a better job at leaving behind a cell at 4.200V as it is supposed to be..

A LiIon battery is NOT supposed to be 4.200V, this is a myth. The charge voltage is supposed to be between 4.15 and 4.25 volt and will always leave the battery at a slightly lower voltage. This can also be seen in all my battery test/reviews, the voltage drops when I stop charging.

My website with reviews of many chargers and batteries (More than 1000): https://lygte-info.dk/

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Thanks HKJ for the explanation!

The PEAK-button of the UT61E is quite confusing and i dont know how it works. Might be similar to Min/Max-button of other DMM's, but i am at loss here.

*FMI* i got 4 i/o sh
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kreisler wrote:

The PEAK-button of the UT61E is quite confusing and i dont know how it works. Might be similar to Min/Max-button of other DMM's, but i am at loss here.

Connect the DMM, start the charge, the you press the PEAK button once and the DMM will record both min and max values. Press PEAK again to change display between min and max.

If the charger has noise in the charge current, the PEAK function may record to high and low values.

The only ways to get 4.2 volt on the battery is to use a very low termination current or charge to more than 4.2 volt.

My website with reviews of many chargers and batteries (More than 1000): https://lygte-info.dk/

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ludow wrote:

So according the pics, this is fake/clone Imax charger. Right?

original Imax charger wouldn’t be so cheap, you know it

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I just bought several different 26650 batteries of eBay, would this iMax B6 be good for checking to see how good a charge the batteries are holding?

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