TrustFire X9 - Thoughts and beamshots

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fishmaniac
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2100 wrote:

Actually it'd be real nice if we get more contributions of beamshots of X9 and other similar lights, like C8 and X9 side by side, etc etc....

I wish I had a C8 to compare. But what I can do is run a lightmeter test. I can give you a lux reading. Let me go dig it out..

weiser
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All I can do is provide another X9 vs Keygos KE5 comparison, like Ian already did. Although I'd say the KE5 has gotta be pretty dang similar to the C8. Having the KE5 I see no reason to acquire the C8. You're good to go with either.

 

I'm visiting at the parents' place, which is many many miles from any significant ambient city light so it's a good place for beamshots and visual testing. They live on 40 acres and the neighbors all live on even larger parcels so that gives you an idea of the density Wink However, monday will literally have a full moon Yell

fishmaniac
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All readings taken at 1 meter (~39 inches).

UniqueFire G10 w/ 4.17v 14500 = 3,756 lux (ave of 3 readings)
Husky w/ 2D nimh 1.30v = 20,989 lux (ave of 3 readings)
TrustFire X9 w/ 4.17v 18650 = 36,489 lux (ave of 3 readings)
TrustFire X9 w/ 2xCR123a = 40,256 lux (ave of 2 readings)

stevetexas
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Paid $39.99, from ebay dealer pandamimi-com.  She advertises the light at 3000mA draw on high.

I have no reason to doubt that, the light is very bright and throws a long way.  My DMM is no good for that kind of amperage.

The only thing that I can see wrong with the light is that the Cree logo is crooked.

Shipping was fast, 9 days to USA from Shenzhen.

weiser
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stevetexas wrote:

Paid $39.99, from ebay dealer pandamimi-com.  She advertises the light at 3000mA draw on high.

I have no reason to doubt that, the light is very bright and throws a long way.  My DMM is no good for that kind of amperage.

The only thing that I can see wrong with the light is that the Cree logo is crooked.

Shipping was fast, 9 days to USA from Shenzhen.

 

Can't they just leave that silly 'CREE T6 made up lumens figure High Power Professional Super Bright Police In Yo' Face Sucka' off of the light and just stick with the brand? Smile But yeah, mine is crooked as well. It also arrived in 9 days but from ebay seller cyberport888. 

 

Ford Prefect
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I like this host but not so much the issues with low current. Anyone seen it available as a host only? I can put a real U2 bin XM-L in it from lck led and a good SB driver for not much more $.
krikstas
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Also a little update:

all my X9s from ebay with Xtar 18700 on high draws about 1.7-1.8A

Ceiling bounce showed that my Jetbeam BC40 and Trustfire TR-800 are a little brighter than X9...

also waiting some drivers from KD...

VFMaddict
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Ford Prefect wrote:
I like this host but not so much the issues with low current. Anyone seen it available as a host only? I can put a real U2 bin XM-L in it from lck led and a good SB driver for not much more $.

Not likely given that the emitter is especially mounted on an aluminum plate and impossible to swap.   The only way to change the emitter seems to be to hack the old one off, mount a star on top of the plate and get a thinner lens, instead of the 4mm one, to compensate and provide the room.

"You are making progress if each mistake you make is a new one."

Remember - Most great discoveries start with maki

joerch
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Changing the Emitter to U2 bin is barely not noticeble in brightness, best improvement ist to change the driver, I modded mine with a 2,8A 3-mode from SB and an Ultrafire reverse clicky (forward and multimode is a no-go). As the driver protudes a bit higher than the stock driver it is necessary to sand down the brass minus-contact a bit to screw on the tailcap completely. Adding thermal paste to the threads of the pill is also recommended to give more heat to the head with the cooling fins.

rizaoztop
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what can i say still being a novice here... I bought X9 from ebay and UF 980L from MF. I don't have any digital measuring device. But, what i observed, i love 980L for its optimum size and brightness. X9 is really better thrower without any modding. I always thinking in consideration of optimization, so, although 980L is a bit expensive, if you aren't a professional 980L is have the advantage in front of X9. The size is almost half and brightness almost same. As i said X9 is a better thrower, from my obserwation in fullmoon X9 was throwing 300-400 metres (i have bilateral hipermetrop astighmate- i wont search the exact translation from google so sorry Smile ) 980L is very close to it (maybe less than 50 metres). But, what i dont know quality of the inner structure quality of the torchs. I heard from here some guys burned 980L's. So, brightness isn't the most important issue if you are a budget looking customer. Finally, i can say that if you have 980L, no need to have X9 or vice versa....

weiser
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joerch wrote:

Changing the Emitter to U2 bin is barely not noticeble in brightness, best improvement ist to change the driver, I modded mine with a 2,8A 3-mode from SB and an Ultrafire reverse clicky (forward and multimode is a no-go). As the driver protudes a bit higher than the stock driver it is necessary to sand down the brass minus-contact a bit to screw on the tailcap completely. Adding thermal paste to the threads of the pill is also recommended to give more heat to the head with the cooling fins.

 

How would you compare the difference in output with the jump to 2.8A over the average of 1.8A? I imagine the body still handles the heat transfer fairly well. Also, could you provide the link for the Ultrafire reverse clicky? Thanks

agedbriar
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"Finally, i can say that if you have 980L, no need to have X9 or vice versa...."

The flashaholic's blasphemy! Yell

Langcjl
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agedbriar wrote:

"Finally, i can say that if you have 980L, no need to have X9 or vice versa...."

The flashaholic's blasphemy! Yell

I was going to comment on that too but I just could'nt get my head around it.

Piers said " ....but who wants enough light, when you have the option for far too much "

_the_
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It's not about "need". Does anyone need tens or hundreds of flashlights?

If you have 980L, you still WANT to have X9 (and a few dozen others) Cool

=the=

 

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I got mine today. 1.7 A on xtar 2600 at 4.18 v. Nice looking like but I am feeling underwhelmed. May as well have got a KD C8.

update: Maybe I was a little harsh. I do really like the design. I compared it with my trustfire c8 (not as good as the KD C8) and the hotspot is brighter. I expect it to throw further due to the larger head. I still wish I was getting higher tail readings. I was hoping to get 2.6 A +

 

http://i1193.photobucket.com/albums

joerch
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[/quote]

 

How would you compare the difference in output with the jump to 2.8A over the average of 1.8A? I imagine the body still handles the heat transfer fairly well. Also, could you provide the link for the Ultrafire reverse clicky? Thanks

[/quote]

 

The output ist noticable brighter,  I cannot compare to some other stock lights as all lights I have are modded Smile

Heat transfer ist good but thermal paste should be used to give more heat to head as the batterty tube ist heating up as well.

Right now I am using a clicky from a C8 but I have some of these on the way:

http://www.manafont.com/product_info.php/ultrafire-replacemnet-tailcap-s...

They should fit properly as the C8 switch is a bit too small in diameter and I hope for a more solid feeling.

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Voltage  OEM driver battery amps (high setting)Battery watts consumed Modified with KD SKU. S009742 driver battery amps (high setting)Battery watts consumed Mid AmpsMid WattsLow AmpsLow Watts
3.50 0.702.45 2.458.575 0.62.10.10.35
3.60 1.154.14 2.79.72 0.72.520.110.396
3.70 1.254.625 2.810.36 0.853.1450.140.518
3.80 1.555.89 2.810.64 0.853.230.140.532
3.90 1.706.63 2.810.92 0.853.3150.140.546
4.00 2.008 2.811.2 0.853.40.140.56
4.10 2.158.815 2.811.48 0.853.4850.140.574
4.20 2.5010.5 2.811.76 0.853.570.140.588
5.00 3.0015        

Ian2381
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Ian2381 wrote:

Sparktastic wrote:

weiser701 wrote:

Ian2381 wrote:

Does anyone know if this light can easily be moded with Shining beams 3-mode Regulated circuitboard 2.8A? Or are there any better/cheaper options?

 

See post #25 and #26. They recommend this driver: http://kaidomain.com/ProductDetails.aspx?ProductId=10995

 

So I would think it should work. The 3-mode version is much more desirable although you'll pay a little more. At least you know you'll get it and will get it fast! 

 

This driver despite being labeled as '5 mode', is actually programmable and is set up with different modes depending on which star you short to ground. You can set this driver up for 3 mode (HML) if you want or go for the strobe modes. It is the best single cell XML driver IMHO.

 

 

Do you know how to do this? what to solder? I tried soldering a driver before and destroyed one.

I just bought the KD driver to upgrade my X9, could anybody show a pix of the driver with soldered wires just to give me idea what to do? Anyways, still have 3 weeks waiting for parts bought.Laughing

stevetexas
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Hi Sparktastic Smile

Thank you for that fine article.

I guess a bunch of us that bought the Ebay X9 flashlights are going to be in the same boat.  That is, we have never done a driver mod before, but now we need to learn how.

I have seen the posts and pics on this forum about how to solder the stars to determine modes and how to solder to the + and -, however I have not seen inside the X9 to see how hard the removal and replacement will be.

I hope that someone with experience will do a tutorial that will make it possible for us to do the job.

Ian2381,

Scroll down in this thread to see a pic about how to wire the board:

http://budgetlightforum.com/node/985

 

 

Ian2381
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Thanks stevetexas for the link.Smile

mitro
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stevetexas wrote:

I have seen the posts and pics on this forum about how to solder the stars to determine modes and how to solder to the + and -, however I have not seen inside the X9 to see how hard the removal and replacement will be.

Changing the driver is no harder than doing it on a p60 pill. The only difference is that the driver is going to need longer wires than what may come already on the replacement. You can just use the ones from the original driver if you want.

Now I'm just curious if its possible (by someone like me) to reflow a different LED on this "star" being so big and heavy. I really would love to have this thing in neutral, I'm just afraid the star will hold too much heat and damage the LED. I may just pull the star and fit a copper slug into the opening and mount a conventional 20mm star. I'll have to measure it, but it might just be easier to go that route.

joerch
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L2T grip rings fit pretty fine :

http://imageshack.us/f/585/bild0046o.jpg/ 

I have contacted ITC if it is possible to get the grip rings as spare part, I hope the answer is yes or I have to look for the expensive Surefire ones

 

(added the link to the picture, I do not quite know how to add it directly, the "how to add"-thread was not helping me much)

Ford Prefect
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joerch wrote:

Changing the Emitter to U2 bin is barely not noticeble in brightness, best improvement ist to change the driver.

This is absolutely true especially if the emitter is really a T6 bin XM-L. That being said, I have experienced an enormous difference in output between a DX purchased "T6" XM-L and a U2 XM-L from lckled despite the U2 being driven at 2.2A and the "T6" at just over 3A (in a bigger host as well).

Either way, I was suggesting the U2 if building the X9 up from a bare host not as an emitter upgrade. Might as well get the highest bin if get to chose.

mitro
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mitro wrote:
Changing the driver is no harder than doing it on a p60 pill. The only difference is that the driver is going to need longer wires than what may come already on the replacement. You can just use the ones from the original driver if you want.

I have to amend this because I ran into an issue.

With the new NANJG 105C driver I didn't have enough room for protected cells. The tailcap wouldn't screw on fully and the light would come on even when the switch was off (the negative end of cell was contacting the switch retaining ring). This can be solved, but you're going to have to find a washer or two to substitute for the large white spacer in the tailcap.

Also, you'll need to trim the nub off the inside of the boot. The boot is held in by the stainless trim ring, so that needs to be unscrewed. I just used my needlenose pliers in the indents of the ring to break it loose.

Foy
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Fish

I like your style.  Keep up the good work.

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So..if I read correctly the X9 cannot take protected 18650s after replacement of said 2.8A driver?. This has me a little confused as it seams others on here have also modded the driver and made no mention of being unable to use protected 18650. If you don't mind Mitro...would you mind explaining to me why there is a difference in clearance between the stock driver and custom driver and the extent of that difference (i.e..is the replacement thicker then the stock one, or does it have to be mounted in a different location?).

mitro
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Manual Man wrote:

So..if I read correctly the X9 cannot take protected 18650s after replacement of said 2.8A driver?. This has me a little confused as it seams others on here have also modded the driver and made no mention of being unable to use protected 18650. If you don't mind Mitro...would you mind explaining to me why there is a difference in clearance between the stock driver and custom driver and the extent of that difference (i.e..is the replacement thicker then the stock one, or does it have to be mounted in a different location?).

The NANJG 105C has components on the contact side of the driver which makes it necessary to have a spring (included) and it takes away at least 3mm from the space in the battery tube. Maybe some people won't have any problems, but it was very apparent with mine once I put a Callie's Kustoms 3100 in it.
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okyeung wrote:

You guys make the light sound so good.  Now all the ebay sellers are raising their prices.  I can not get anyone to sell less than $37.  Well I guess I have to wait.  Frown 

Trustfire X9 Cree XM-L T6 1200 Lumens 5-Mode Led flashlight Kit(1*18650Batery,With Charger + 1 x 18650 Battery)

price at $53.80, i think cheaper.

agedbriar
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I refrained from installing the NANJG 105 because on my sample it would lead to the same issues that mitro has encountered.

Waiting for good unprotected batteries in hope of avoiding body rework that NANJG would call for.

At the moment, with stock driver, I'm getting 2.05A measured from an AW 2200 (computed about 2.2A in real use), which is quite bearable. The reflector size and quality make up for the lower power. Of course, we strive for both... Wink

Ian2381
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agedbriar wrote:

I refrained from installing the NANJG 105 because on my sample it would lead to the same issues that mitro has encountered.

Waiting for good unprotected batteries in hope of avoiding body rework that NANJG would call for.

At the moment, with stock driver, I'm getting 2.05A measured from an AW 2200 (computed about 2.2A in real use), which is quite bearable. The reflector size and quality make up for the lower power. Of course, we strive for both... Wink

Will this upgrade going to be an issue using AW 2200mah and XTAR 18700 2600mah protected batteries? bought this driver to upgrade my X9 using these batteries.

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