BLF Kronos X6/X5 GB - Group Buy now closed.

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Tom E
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Gunga wrote:
for Centering on the X6, it didn't work for me. Not enough slop. Will likely need to desolder and do a little filing of the board to get better Centering.

Shoot! I did both my X6's (one SS/Cu, one alum) and both worked out well. Kind of had to jam a tool in the gap between the MCPCB and edge to get it where I wanted, then locked it down. I'm sure lots of variables though piece to piece, so not surprising, but sorry, wish it worked out easier.

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Mine centered up well just by adjusting the pcb under the screws. Everything was perfect except the LED placement on the pcb when they flowed it, just a smidge off. 

 

 

I couldn't keep my hand out of the cookie jar. Everything else being stock, I braided the tailcap spring and am reading 5.8A doing a tailcap bypass. It was 5.6 prior to the bypass. Not much gain but I don't have to worry about melting the spring. I was pleasantly suprised to see they used 24ga Turnigy wire from the pcb to led in place of the typical cheap wire used in most mass produced flashlights.

 

TK, is there a way to do a master reset on the mcu? The driver in my X5 is still messed up and I can't see anything wrong with it. It worked great for the first 20 minutes lol.

jacktheclipper
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All I want is a unlit tailcap aluminum X5 .

It probably won't be too long before they are available .

 

I'm a budget guy .

What I do

 

fatboy
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NightSpy wrote:
jescereal wrote:
For every 100 people that buy something, 5 will be unsatisfied, and will make sure the world knows it. It’s not what they say, but how they say it.

The other 95 just happily enjoy what they got, but won’t announce it to the ends of the world.

The vocal minority is a real thing, but please don’t let that discourage anyone from doing these amazing group buys. These sets really are incredible.

There are two things to consider that sort of work hand in hand:
1) If this is a gift to someone from you, it should be free of blems. A chipped box corner is an obvious blem.
2) Compensation should be a replacement to make one whole. If diminished value is perceived and cash compensation will do, then the blem is obviously something someone can live with.

With all the effort of the team, manufacturer, and host, bringing issues to the forefront may help in the future. Packing has been a long-time issue with nearly everything China.
Regardless, it will take a little time for all the dust to settle. I can live with the wrong tint, but since this was a gift to myself, I would like the box replaced. Since the damage is on the bottom, I can replace the top to salvage the serial number. That too I am willing to do. And I have another order to place that includes free shipping. If I can organize that with Neal, then great. I’m in no hurry to get issues resolved, but as a long time engineer in high tech, I know the only wheels that get fixed are squeaky ones. If shipping damage hits the bottom line, it will get the attention of someone to solve it next time.

While I am at it, anyone else having trouble putting protected cells in the SS/CU X6? I have 3400 and 3500mah EVVA cells from mtn electronics. 1 fits with a little help and one doesn’t fit at all. I know these are big, this is the first of my 18650 lights that the diameter is a problem.


I have a NCR18650 that is tight and 2 intl-outdoor that are too fat. But I wasn’t planning on using them in these higher current lights anyway
Fredylee
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is High in Muggle mode the same as Max (highest mode) in normal? Anybody knows?

bugsy36
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Fredylee wrote:
is High in Muggle mode the same as Max (highest mode) in normal? Anybody knows?

No....about 60%. TK has a post in this thread within the last couple days that shows approximate values but not gospel on lumens output.

It's the simple things that we take for granted that cost us the most

Ευκαιρία λέει πιάσε με από το μέτωπο γιατί μόλις έχω περάσει δεν θα με πιάσειs

Fredylee
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Thanks 4 the info. Just to confirm.
SS/Cu – No step down mode. You can be in turbo all the time.
AL – Step down mode after ?? minutes/seconds?

bugsy36
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Honestly...I do not know. I turn off all thermal management and step-down nowadays.

It's the simple things that we take for granted that cost us the most

Ευκαιρία λέει πιάσε με από το μέτωπο γιατί μόλις έχω περάσει δεν θα με πιάσειs

ReManG
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Fredylee wrote:
Thanks 4 the info. Just to confirm. SS/Cu – No step down mode. You can be in turbo all the time. AL – Step down mode after ?? minutes/seconds?

Sort of, if you read on this UI it has a thermal calibration mode. You can turn it off (will run until your bacon wrapped head is tasty) or you can set it to the heat level you want. Up a few pages or in ToyKeepers signature line there is a link to her firmware repository. In there is the text instructions for the thermal calibration…

BOTH AL and SS/Cu have this…

nocturne
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ToyKeeper wrote:
In any case, the main difference is mass-produced-cheaply versus custom-built-individually.

Thank you, again for the simple clarity… that’s all I was getting at with too many words and too much risk of your loyal supporters perceiving I have attacked you. You are not your argument, I’m sure you know that. Again, I just felt the comparison of mass produced items from a large shop to individually produced lights from an individual was not a good basis to describe to anyone interested in heading up a group buy. The lights themselves may be of similar utility, material and quality, but the market sets price based not on manufacturing cost, but other less tangibles. A group buy is all about the manufacturering cost… what can we get as a group with our group buying power… and it could not work if it was about creating something so rare and desired that its introductory market price was too high or even anywhere above the ordinary retail level.

That said, it is very possible nothing like the lights produced in this group buy might ever be made again, and that would increase its rarity and market value if the demand stays the same. This increase in market value still won’t affect the manufacturing cost which is based on other pressures, as you suggest, such as the cost of living and a workers’ wages.

I try to be a straight shooter, but it comes out verbose and confusing. Sorry for my inability to fine tune and make a clear and simple point.

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I’ve been playing with my lights this evening and I’ve come to a few conclusions:

  1. The head on the X5 is just a little too big for me to comfortably carry in my jeans. It’s great in jacket pockets though.
  2. I love the X5 tube width.
  3. The A6 size seems to be the widest that I’m comfortable carrying in my jeans.
  4. I would love an X5 tube with a A6 style head
Fredylee
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No 4: So A5 then?

SciFiFreak
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Fredylee wrote:
No 4: So A5 then?

Sounds good to me!

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ToyKeeper wrote:
hank wrote:
Someone asked much earlier in the thread:
Quote:
I was wondering about the clip on the X5, the top looks so tight


Just asking if this looks typical to others who’ve gotten aluminum X5s, before I consider trying to fix that with vise and pliers, since I went through this with the original A6 and the clips just snapped. (The KronoX5 clip came installed, and is so tight I haven’t gotten it off the flashlight yet, broke a few thumbnails trying; the KronoX6 clip is not installed, not looked carefully at that yet)

I got a SS/Cu set and an Al set in the mail today, so I’m seeing the aluminum production units for the first time.

The copper X5 and aluminum X5 apparently have different clips. This is disappointing, since the copper X5 clip is quite nice while the aluminum X5 clip seems too narrow. I was also a bit disappointed that they both arrived with the clip already attached. The wooden box set had all clips set aside, but the cardboard box sets had the X5 clip attached. Perhaps there wasn’t enough room in the box to leave it off.

To get the X5 clip off, the easiest way I’ve found is to take the thick part of the lanyard (or a shoelace), loop it under the clip from the tailcap end so it rests right next to the clip arms, and pull very very hard. It will probably scratch the host.

I took some quick pics to show the clip difference. Sorry, I was in a hurry and forgot to set a white balance… but these still show the differences in shape and material:

In my 3 Al sets, all the X5’s came with the clip attached and the X6 without the clip attached.

As other have noted, the X5 clip is designed for deep pocket carry but the gap between the clip and the attachment ring is too small not allowing the clip to fully seat in even the thinnest of pockets. I wonder what would be the best way to resolve this without breaking the current clip or scratching up the finish on the light too much.

Clip aside, I am really having fun with these lights. The output is amazing and I am enjoying learning about the various programming modes.

Great job all around.

ReManG
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nocturne wrote:
ToyKeeper wrote:
In any case, the main difference is mass-produced-cheaply versus custom-built-individually.

Thank you, again for the simple clarity… that’s all I was getting at with too many words and too much risk of your loyal supporters perceiving I have attacked you. You are not your argument, I’m sure you know that. Again, I just felt the comparison of mass produced items from a large shop to individually produced lights from an individual was not a good basis to describe to anyone interested in heading up a group buy. The lights themselves may be of similar utility, material and quality, but the market sets price based not on manufacturering cost, but other less tangibles. A group buy is all about the manufacturering cost… what can we get as a group with our group buying power… and it could not work if it was about creating something so rare and desired that its introductory market price was too high or even anywhere above the ordinary retail level.

That said, it is very possible nothing like the lights produced in this group buy might ever be made again, and that would increase its rarity and market value if the demand stays the same. This increase in market value still won’t affect the manufacturing cost which is based on other pressures, as you suggest, such as the cost of living and a workers’ wages.

I try to be a straight shooter, but it comes out too verbose and confused. Sorry for my inability to fine tune and make a clear and simple point.

I do not get this Rarity and Market Value stuff? I mean there has to be a profit in anything for it to be valuable, but like the old joke goes: What do air and sex have in common? Answer: They both aint no big deal until your not getting any…. Value can be placed on a product and never realized by a buyer, then it sits there, unsold. The flashlight world seems so big here, but in the real world, there are many that would NEVER pay even $30 for a pair of lights like this, even after you explain how beautiful, unique and special your little snowflakes are…

There are junkyards full of stuff people thought were valuable at one time. How much landfill space is taken up by beanie babies and such? In ten years, what will the battery, emitter and driver technology look like?

IF you want to make a monetary profit off of this place, you should be the one hosting the GB. I would personally have every one of these shipped to me if I were getting this many complaints over SN and scratches, etc. I would then put 1/3 into a busy gravel parking lot and throw the another 1/3 down the longest set of concrete stairs I could find. A matched set would then come from either the stair group or the parking lot group. The ones that posted they didnt care about SN would get the 1/3 that had no extra engraving…

textileRef:9678244516037b20200e61:linkStartMarker:“Seriously, go to a plumbing store and buy $40 worth of solid copper plumbing fittings like valves and reduction couplings, it aint going to weigh much more than the X5 when you get $40 worth, so we are really getting these for a bargain. By the way, they lump the special and expensive plumbing fittings into bins and let them get dinged up… I like the dings, makes me want to use them anyway, both the lights and the fittings.. Rant over…

WABI SABI”:https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Wabi-sabi

ToyKeeper
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Fredylee wrote:
is High in Muggle mode the same as Max (highest mode) in normal? Anybody knows?

Re-posting…
http://bazaar.launchpad.net/~toykeeper/flashlight-firmware/blf-x6v2/view...

Muggle mode “high” is about half power or 5/6th maximum perceived brightness. This is detailed in the text manual above, and also hinted at in the UI diagram.

Fredylee wrote:
SS/Cu – No step down mode. You can be in turbo all the time.
AL – Step down mode after ?? minutes/seconds?

This is also answered in the text manual. Both sets have identical behavior, thermal step-down that you can configure (or disable) yourself.
saypat
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Has anyone received the S.S./Cu set ordered without a box yet? The problems seem to have come with the ‘boxed sets’. Wondering how the sets are packaged that come without the box?

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saypat wrote:
Has anyone received the S.S./Cu set ordered without a box yet? The problems seem to have come with the ‘boxed sets’. Wondering how the sets are packaged that come without the box?

I got one today.

The copper X5 is in flawless condition, except for the scratch in the clip groove where the clip was attached before shipping.

The steel is, of course, steel. It’s not going to show any damage unless it gets hit very hard.

Edit: As expected, the serial numbers don’t match. They are in the 251-400 range, each chosen randomly.

Captainvideo
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ToyKeeper wrote:
saypat wrote:
Has anyone received the S.S./Cu set ordered without a box yet? The problems seem to have come with the ‘boxed sets’. Wondering how the sets are packaged that come without the box?

I got one today.

The copper X5 is in flawless condition, except for the scratch in the clip groove where the clip was attached before shipping.

The steel is, of course, steel. It’s not going to show any damage unless it gets hit very hard.

Matching serial numbers on the non box set?

saypat
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ToyKeeper wrote:
saypat wrote:
Has anyone received the S.S./Cu set ordered without a box yet? The problems seem to have come with the ‘boxed sets’. Wondering how the sets are packaged that come without the box?

I got one today.

The copper X5 is in flawless condition, except for the scratch in the clip groove where the clip was attached before shipping.

The steel is, of course, steel. It’s not going to show any damage unless it gets hit very hard.

Edit: As expected, the serial numbers don’t match. They are in the 251-400 range, each chosen randomly.

thanks ToyKeeper for your reply here, as well as your reply to my earlier question about what the default mode specs were. Thanks for a bazillion other things you do, while addressing both kings and paupers alike. That’s rare!

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Here's a weird finding when comparing 2 Al X6's received today. 

All modes work correctly on both lights except batt check. Using the same cell in both lights, reading 4.05V on my meter, one light will report 4.1V and the other reports 2.5V. I know these will vary to a certain degree, but was wondering about the one reading 1.5V low. 

I tested both lights twice, switching the cell between lights each time. I guess I will do a config reset on the light reading low to see if that makes a change in the behavior. Other than the batt check, all seems to be working as intended currently. Thanks for any other ideas anyone might have. 

By the way, I'm impressed and pleased with the Al versions as much as the Cu/SS set. Guys at work are pissed that these are limited. I've already had to put a beat down on one guy to get my Cu X5 back. 

Edit: reset didn't work. I didn't think it would but worth a shot. 

hank
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OOhh. The Cu X5 clips do look like the right thing.
Different metal or polish, bent differently, as well as different overall shape.
So it goes.

cabfrank
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I got my AL set. I don’t have much to say about it really. I only played with the X6 so far, and to make it short and simple, it is the best single emitter light I have ever had my grubby hands on. I could elaborate, but, what more is there to say? Incredible. Thank you so much, guys and gal. My wallet hates you, but keep it up!

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hank wrote:
OOhh. The Cu X5 clips do look like the right thing.
Different metal or polish, bent differently, as well as different overall shape.
So it goes.

G'Day Hank, Smile

 

I just received my Cu X5, & its clip is the same as the clip on my Al X5.

And Both have the same bend radius as your Al X5 clip pics.

So it seems that some of us are getting different clips to the one on TK's Cu X5   Frown

 

Best Regards,

George

Brett H
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saypat wrote:
Has anyone received the S.S./Cu set ordered without a box yet? The problems seem to have come with the ‘boxed sets’. Wondering how the sets are packaged that come without the box?

I received my unboxed SS/Cu set today as well as my Al set and the first word to come to my mind is a word I don’t even use; exquisite! Both lights are in what I would call flawless condition. The X5 is just gorgeous! The X6 is just as gorgeous, however for me the all-copper light was the “crown jewel” of my purchase and it lived up to all my expectations.

My boxed set was still in NY last time I checked, but to be honest, seeing these lights today confirms what I had suspected all along which is this; I would be just as satisfied with the unboxed lights. As a matter of fact, the factory boxes these lights come in are quite nice. There is the heavier, stiffer foam inside which protects the light very nicely. The boxes were taped shut, however, I was able to remove all tape from the boxes, even from under the product label (yes, I cannot deny this was very OCD :)). The bag of accessories was of course included in the box. The X5 did come with the clip installed and it is clear, an uninstalled clip would not fit in the X5 box. These factory boxes were simply wrapped in some white foam wrap and mailed in a non-bubble plastic mailer. However, due to the nature of the factory boxes as well as them being taped shut, these lights were safe and secure and one should not encounter any shipping issues with these. I will try to post some pics later today.

Oh, and the Al set; equally impressive! If you have not gotten one of these Al sets for this price, you had better jump on one! The price on these is simply unbeatable. Also, these lights are shipped in the same manner and come in the same factory boxes.

Additionally, I was able to remove the X5 clip with little difficulty. I simply grasped the light with my fingers and spread the clip apart with my thumbs while simultaneously pushing the clip away from me. The clip sprung off and there was no damage to the host. Anyone with a reasonable amount of hand strength should be able to accomplish this.

I know I have stated this previously but I would like to give another thanks to the entire Kronos team for putting together such an awesome collection of lights for an incredible price!

southland
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To widen the clip width, remove clip from flashlight, get a pair of these or regular pliers if you don’t have any. Tape clip to deter scratches. Lock pliers one half inch below the bend in clip on the side closest to the flashlight, make sure the pliers are straight, hold pliers firmly or clamp in vise, hit the area between the bend and the piers with a hammer until desired width is achieved.

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HighCaliber wrote:
… and the other reports 2.5V.


… two point five volts???

Something is very wrong there.

I take it, if you leave it on a normal output mode, it steps down then shuts itself off?

HighCaliber
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ToyKeeper wrote:
HighCaliber wrote:
... and the other reports 2.5V.
... two point five volts??? Something is very wrong there. I take it, if you leave it on a normal output mode, it steps down then shuts itself off?

 

I will test it out tomorrow with and extended run and see if there is any change from the 2.5V reading and see how low it goes. 

HighCaliber
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HighCaliber wrote:

ToyKeeper wrote:
HighCaliber wrote:
... and the other reports 2.5V.
... two point five volts??? Something is very wrong there. I take it, if you leave it on a normal output mode, it steps down then shuts itself off?

 

I will test it out tomorrow with and extended run and see if there is any change from the 2.5V reading and see how low it goes. 

Tailstanding at bedside resulted in less than 5minutes of run time with it gradually stepping down in levels then shutting off. It will turn back on but then will repeat the process. 

I was hoping that all would be fine, minus batt check but that does not seem to be the case.  Thanks TK for pointing out the not so obvious to me. 

cabfrank
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I have a question for those who did this group buy, put in their time and effort, and exhibited their knowledge and patience, just so we could all have incredible flashlights. How do you feel about the ungrateful, pathetic folks who buy these and hope to sell one for the entire set cost, or double their money on them, or whatever? I think it is despicable, disgraceful, obnoxious, disgusting, disdainful, contemptible and distasteful, among other things. Did you all expect this, and it doesn’t bother you? I am naive to let it bother me? What has happened to decency, respect, and knowing the difference between right and wrong? Sorry, I guess that is more than one question. Jeez.

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