BLF Kronos X6/X5 GB - Group Buy now closed.

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jazzjarred
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Received #52 SS/Cu set in the mail today (Australia) and have to say I’m very impressed.

A massive thank you to all involved, you have made something truly unique for the community here!

I’m only disappointed I couldn’t get the two sets I’d first wanted and hope some lucky person on the waiting list is enjoying theirs soon.

bugsy36
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Cabfrank - As supply dwindles I can see the retail going up slightly given what they are. Are they worth 2x...only to the ...well whoever wants to pay that. I am sure that there are profiteers running around especially since many stated "I already have an X6" when in reality they do not have "this" X6, especially the aluminum X6's which if things go right will have a 2x tube extension.

It's the simple things that we take for granted that cost us the most

Ευκαιρία λέει πιάσε με από το μέτωπο γιατί μόλις έχω περάσει δεν θα με πιάσειs

ToyKeeper
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HighCaliber wrote:
Tailstanding at bedside resulted in less than 5minutes of run time with it gradually stepping down in levels then shutting off.

Definitely a hardware issue. It’s getting the wrong voltage levels on its sensor, so it thinks you’re always at a critical low-voltage level.

As with many driver issues, you might be able to fix it by touching up the driver’s solder joints. Maybe there’s a resistor shorted or something, likely R1 or R2. But you might also have to ask Neal for a replacement driver.

It’s also possible that some other connection is barely touching, somewhere on the power connection path. You might want to take apart the tailcap and put it back together, loosen and tighten the driver retaining ring, maybe clean the threads and end of the tube if it’s an aluminum model. Possibly swap the switches between the two lights to see if the issue follows the switch. Sometimes spurious low voltage can be caused by a faulty connection from the battery to the driver. I had a faulty switch do that once.

ToyKeeper
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cabfrank wrote:
I have a question for those who did this group buy, … How do you feel about the ungrateful, pathetic folks …

I appreciate the empathy and support, but that question is practically inviting the drama llama over for dinner. Smile

All I can say is… Everything so far is within expected parameters. (and I am never cynical, what are you talking about?)

cabfrank
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Fair enough. I never want the drama llama at my house for dinner, and profiteers is a nice euphemism. You are really good people, and we appreciate, almost all of us.

LSX
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Well the EMS postage option sucks.

I order my SS/Cu set and for some reason it had defaulted to EMS shipping and I didn’t notice until after I had made the payment. Ended up paying an additional $23 for it and didn’t try to get it changed as I figured it would just arrive quickly which is a good thing anyway.

Ordered a aluminium set 2 days later and just went with the priority direct or whatever it was called, which I think was free and its already in Australia and the SS/Cu set only says “Notification of Shipping Confirmation”

Can’t wait to receive them, hopefully before I go away for work!

Kenjii
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2016-02-02 09:44 COLOGNEGERMANY, Delivery attempted; recipient not home

Can´t wait to get these in my hands :_(

ger-slash
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Kenjii wrote:
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2016-02-02 09:44 COLOGNEGERMANY, Delivery attempted; recipient not home

Can´t wait to get these in my hands :_(

You shouldn’t stay them in DHL-Hands too long Wink

RotorHead64
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I had a horrible nightmare. I dreamt my set arrived in an old Nike shoe box. No packing material. Just rattling around in there together. The x6 had a huge gaping crack running through the heatsink then someone said "aww shoot it'll buff out"...

Shew... Just a dream. 

Mine says in transit from NY. 

I'm scared to look now...

Kenjii
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ger-slash wrote:
Kenjii wrote:
Quote:
2016-02-02 09:44 COLOGNEGERMANY, Delivery attempted; recipient not home

Can´t wait to get these in my hands :_(

You shouldn’t stay them in DHL-Hands too long Wink

They get another day with my lights. Redelivery is schelduled for tomorrow morning Wink My wife will be at home then.

ReManG
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Kenjii wrote:
ger-slash wrote:
Kenjii wrote:
Quote:
2016-02-02 09:44 COLOGNEGERMANY, Delivery attempted; recipient not home

Can´t wait to get these in my hands :_(

You shouldn’t stay them in DHL-Hands too long Wink

They get another day with my lights. Redelivery is schelduled for tomorrow morning Wink My wife will be at home then.

Well, you may not get them either way… If she sees them, you may have to get something else… Lol

djozz
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Regarding a discussion from a few pages ago: I do not agree with TK, in principle, when well build (no light from the light source can directly shine at the detector), an integrating milk-carton should be better at integration (so more accurate with varying angles and beam profiles) than the bended pipe thing. What would help is sanding the inside of the carton with fine sandpaper to make it matt instead of shiny.

jsmn4vu
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SS/Cu boxed set in the low 100’s arrived yesterday. Slight dings on two of the box corners. Couldn’t be happier with the set. Smile A huge “thank you” to all who made this happen!

gadabout
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Got my Cu/SS set today.  Wow - so beautiful, thanks to all concerned with this amazing GB.  Non-boxed set with mismatched serial numbers in basic packaging as described by others.  No damage in transit.

I have a problem with the X5 that I can't work out where it keeps stepping down, from lower levels.  Just did a quick and dirty tailcap current reading with a multimeter and cheap leads.  Times shown below to within a second or two - in the absence of more sophisticated equipment, I simply narrated the observed readings into a voice recorder app.

Starting at level 3 (third lowest of 7) I was reading about 137mA @ 5s  

120mA - 30sec

104mA - 40s

91mA - 50s

79mA - 1.00

67mA - 1.12

56mA- 1.21

49mA - 1.30

41mA - 1.38

34mA - 1.47

28mA - 1.57

23mA - 2.06

21mA - 2.18  where it seemed to stabilise.

Battery is a protected 14500 Keepower reading around 4.11V.  I haven't sourced any decent IMR cells yet so the highest modes are not possible without tripping the protection circuit.  I've tried this with 2 identical Keepower 14500s at around the same voltage.  

I also tested a couple of Coolook LiFePO4 14500s with similar observed results.  In fact, these were the first cells I tried as they are unprotected and seemed go give access to all modes albeit probably at lesser output than a good IMR due to their nominal 3.2V rating.

The stepdown almost seems somehow thermal in nature but this makes no sense at such low drive currents.  If I "rest" the light for few minutes, it then takes a good 90-120sec before it starts dropping again.  Ambient temp at the moment about 27C (80F).

The same thing happens starting from Level 4 but from a higher baseline current.

Hopefully one or two of the Gurus in here might have an idea what's going on.  I've already used the config menu to perform a factory reset.

Cheers

Kenjii
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ReManG wrote:
Kenjii wrote:
ger-slash wrote:
Kenjii wrote:
Quote:
2016-02-02 09:44 COLOGNEGERMANY, Delivery attempted; recipient not home

Can´t wait to get these in my hands :_(

You shouldn’t stay them in DHL-Hands too long Wink

They get another day with my lights. Redelivery is schelduled for tomorrow morning Wink My wife will be at home then.

Well, you may not get them either way… If she sees them, you may have to get something else… Lol

Potentially it is even worse. She does not work because tomorrow is her birthday Shocked But I think I have much more interesting presents for her than these lights – SHOES Wink

Lazy-R-us
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There was another member who posted that bat check was giving low results on one of his lights. TK suggested that something may be wrong with his voltage divider and monitoring circuit. Can you try this on your light and see what it reports? As I understand the UI, it will step down for two different reasons; low voltage as measured by the ATTiny AND also high temperature. So if the processor thinks it sees a low voltage it will bump down.

Lazy-R-us

gadabout
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Lazy-R-us wrote:
There was another member who posted that bat check was giving low results on one of his lights. TK suggested that something may be wrong with his voltage divider and monitoring circuit. Can you try this on your light and see what it reports? As I understand the UI, it will step down for two different reasons; low voltage as measured by the ATTiny AND also high temperature. So if the processor _thinks_ it sees a low voltage it will bump down.

Thanks Lazy..

Unfortunately I can't step backwards past turbo to get to the bat check mode without tripping the protection circuit on the Keepowers.

FWIW, with the Coolook LiFeP04 reading 3.339 o/c on my multimeter, the bat check shows 3.4V.

Lazy-R-us
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Well we can hardly complain about the accuracy there. Bat check reports within 60 mV of a meter.

Does it seem like the processor is stepping down the light output or is it behaving more like a nearly empty battery in a ‘regular’ light?

Lazy-R-us

gadabout
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Lazy-R-us wrote:
Well we can hardly complain about the accuracy there. Bat check reports within 60 mV of a meter. Does it seem like the processor is stepping down the light output or is it behaving more like a nearly empty battery in a 'regular' light?

Not sure how to answer this.  At a guess I'd say processor since the stepdowns are sudden, defined steps rather than a slow gradual drop.  I first noticed it happening in visual steps when using the light on a low level in complete darkness.  It was then I got out the multimeter to investigate.  If plotted graphically it would be a staircase rather than a curve if you know what I mean.

Definitely not a tailcap issue as one possibility suggested for the previous poster.  Neither does mine shut itself off completely (yet).  Certainly not in 5 minutes. 

DB Custom
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Sometimes the thermal step down is set to act too quickly. I don’t know that the protected cells would let you get to the configuration menu, but I’d try setting the thermal regulation and see if that helps.

gadabout
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DB Custom wrote:
Sometimes the thermal step down is set to act too quickly. I don't know that the protected cells would let you get to the configuration menu, but I'd try setting the thermal regulation and see if that helps.

Thanks Dale

I can get into the config menu with the Coolooks. I did the factory reset that way.  I'll need to dig around to find out what to do and how, when I get into the thermal regulation menu.  I'm assuming this is the correct link: http://bazaar.launchpad.net/~toykeeper/flashlight-firmware/blf-x6v2/view...

I'm not quite sure how I'm going to achieve much in the thermal menu really.  It is displaying this behaviour at drive currents of less than 200mA, way too low to get any kind of heat into the head.  Unless you are suggesting I just try disabling it?

Way too late here now - nearly 2.30AM.  I might have a fiddle with it tomorrow.

dude5
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on the A6 driver, when turbo steps down to high, a short tap will push it back up to turbo. is this UI the same way?

DB Custom
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This isn’t the same driver as the A6, this one uses the ATTiny25 which allows for thermal regulation, so the light doesn’t step down like the A6 but instead it ramps down with 64 levels of stops.

Enter the config mode, at the 7th blink break connection during the stutter.. it’ll come on in about a med mode, turn it off… this disables it. If you want to set it, wait a couple of seconds after the med mode and it will shift to Turbo where you can run it til the heat is as much or as little as you dare, turn it off at that point and this will be memorized.

Tarvos
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I got my ss/cu with box set today. I am beyond happy! Wife thinks I’m insane because I called her into the room for the unboxing. She just shakes her head and searches for the number to a cheap psychiatrist. My lights were perfect no issues whatsoever. The box had one little ding on one corner that I never would have seen if not for reading about that issue here. For me, no issue at all. Completely satisfied. Ecstatic. I would like to express my thanks to all involved with this venture. I can never you repay for all your work and efforts. THANK YOU!! I look forward to being able to participate in more of these customs lights. Cant wait to show these off! Steve
dude5
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ok thanks. i thought i noticed small step downs but couldnt prove that it was stepping down. but the 64 step downs make sense.

hank
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> Southland … clip … pliers … hammer

Sorry, I can’t figure out whether you’re joking, or describing what you actually did in a way I don’t understand.
Sounds like sticking the pliers inside the bend and hammering on the outside, which would not open up the bend, it’d make it narrower.
Would you add a picture of how you fixed your clip, if you actually did what you’re describing there?

The problem is the old familiar one, the 180 bend is so tight that folded cloth won’t fit into it.

RobertB
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Beam shot of X6 Al

gadabout
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DB Custom wrote:
This isn't the same driver as the A6, this one uses the ATTiny25 which allows for thermal regulation, so the light doesn't step down like the A6 but instead it ramps down with 64 levels of stops. Enter the config mode, at the 7th blink break connection during the stutter.. it'll come on in about a med mode, turn it off... this disables it. If you want to set it, wait a couple of seconds after the med mode and it will shift to Turbo where you can run it til the heat is as much or as little as you dare, turn it off at that point and this will be memorized.

Thanks Dale.  I think I disabled it as it now seems to be running steadily in modes 3 and 4.  Looks like something weird going on in there.

I'm guessing the same process (break at 7th stutter, then off at Medium) would toggle the thermal protection back ON again?  I tried this but it seemed to make no difference.  I can't push the light hard enough to heat up properly on the 3.2V LiFePo4 so I can't memorise a setting ATM.

Sorry to be a pain but do you have a link to the firmware instructions for this light.  The diagram in the first post is helpful but lacks detail.  I know it's probably buried somewhere among the nearly 5000 posts in this thread.

Cheers

myhken
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gadabout wrote:

Thanks Dale.  I think I disabled it as it now seems to be running steadily in modes 3 and 4.  Looks like something weird going on in there.

I’m guessing the same process (break at 7th stutter, then off at Medium) would toggle the thermal protection back ON again?  I tried this but it seemed to make no difference.  I can’t push the light hard enough to heat up properly on the 3.2V LiFePo4 so I can’t memorise a setting ATM.

Sorry to be a pain but do you have a link to the firmware instructions for this light.  The diagram in the first post is helpful but lacks detail.  I know it’s probably buried somewhere among the nearly 5000 posts in this thread.

Cheers

http://bazaar.launchpad.net/~toykeeper/flashlight-firmware/blf-x6v2/view...

It’s also in the first post, just look at the 1/22 date

Kenneth Myhre

gadabout
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myhken wrote:
gadabout wrote:

Sorry to be a pain but do you have a link to the firmware instructions for this light.  The diagram in the first post is helpful but lacks detail.  I know it's probably buried somewhere among the nearly 5000 posts in this thread.

Cheers

http://bazaar.launchpad.net/~toykeeper/flashlight-firmware/blf-x6v2/view... It's also in the OP, just look at the 1/22 date

Thanks myhken.  Ok, so that is the same link I posted in #4983 which means I am looking at the correct instructions.  (I mistook Dale's comment about it not being the same as the A6 to mean I was looking at the wrong file.)

This doesn't mention toggling thermal regulation on and off, only turning off or seting manually.  If that's the case I guess I'll need to wait until I get some IMR cells to be able to turn it back on when the light gets hot?

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