Cracking open a Manker Boney LED pill 7+ DAYS on 1 fresh alkaline/Component pics/ Mhanlen verified 7 day run time@ 1 Lumen +/-

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ReManG
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Cracking open a Manker Boney LED pill 7+ DAYS on 1 fresh alkaline/Component pics/ Mhanlen verified 7 day run time@ 1 Lumen +/-

UPDATE III Mhanlen has verified the 7 day run time. The bad news was the fact that my lumen estimation was way off. Starting at around 1.5 lumen on a fresh alkaline, NOT the five or so I estimated… Big thanks to Mhanlen and I will get to modding the next round of lights with the lower uH inductors to try and get more brightness with hopefully a not to much shorter run time…

UPDATE II After the replaced inductor below allowed the light to run over 20 hours on a NiMh, I hit the wally world to replenish my supply of RayOVac AAA’s. I ran this light and an unmodified one on two new AAA’s that both read 1.607V at the start.

I started the test 09-24-2015 at 1930 hours Mountain time. The stock light was down to .894V and minimally useable light the next day at 2200 hours. The modified light was at 1.403V at this time and showed no significant dimming (it was already about 1/3 the brightness of stock after the mod, maybe 5 lumen).

I let the modified light run, taking daily voltage readings, but otherwise leaving it on.
MODIFIED LIGHT READINGS BELOW
09-24-2015 1930hrs Test start 1.607V
09-25-2015 1930hrs 1.413V
09-25-2015 2200hrs 1.403V Stock light down to unusable level, Stock light turned off.
09-26-2015 1930hrs 1.362V
09-27-2015 1930hrs 1.321V
09-28-2015 1930hrs 1.283V
09-29-2015 1930hrs 1.225V
09-30-2015 1930hrs 1.123V Down to about 1 lumen, same as a Nitecore TUBE on low
10-01-2015 1930hrs 0.951V End of useable light for my likes.
10-02-2015 1930hrs 0.618V VERY dim, but could still be a marker in a dark area
10-03-2015 1130hrs 0.498V Battery recovering as measured, still producing light!

After a few hours of recovery, the battery was able to produce a couple of lumen for about 10 minutes before fading again to a nice sub lumen glow…

I am floored by the performance here. I wish I could remember what my decision was on buying the 270uH inductors. I am thinking around 200uH would be a bit brighter, and not too much less on run time…. But as is, this is a few lumen that will be there when you need it…. I filled the pill with Black RTV gasket maker, low odor kind… I am thinking a little aluminum cap for covering the LED and this thing is my bulletproof light.

This sort of brings me full circle, back to the idea of the infinity light. I spent less than $10 and got a light that will provide light in a dark place for over a week solid, but for about two weeks worth of nights in reality, longer on a lithium primary of course…

—————————————————————————————————————————

UPDATE Replaced the stock inductor with a 270uh and now runs over 20 hours on RayOVac NiMh, still running. Previously would run about 7hrs on this same battery. After 20 hours it is still showing 1.264V on the NiMh…

—————————————————————————————————————————-

On the review I did of the MANKER BONEY and in post #15 I had dropped the light several times and it had finally quit…

It has been a while, but I finally cracked into the pill and actually found out what quit and repaired it…

Initially, I had tried to pry the boards from the pill, but could not… So I took one of those fine Xacto saws and just cut the aluminum pill in two places and separated it..

It is no wonder I could not pull the pill apart, one leg of the LED is soldered on the same pad as the spring…. It looks like if you de-soldered the spring and could pry it at the same time, you would be able to pop the bottom (spring side) board out, as the only other contact there is a negative wire with some slack in it. I did not know this and lack the extra two hands for this, so my cutting was sufficient and I did not (sheer dumb luck) cut any components.


If you are going to do this, it seems the safest place to cut with a reference is when you look at the pill from the front and cut between the N and K in Manker, and then 180 degrees from there. I put red arrows to indicate the aproximate position for the cuts, you have to go a little into the boards to get through the entire pill. Then use a fine screwdriver to pry the pill apart.

The exam begins.. a huge 24 gauge wire is the only other item soldered to the bottom board, and has some slack in it.

Joule thief components, well done little inductor and other items…

THE FAULT!!!!, as the wire is most likely the heaviest component, it makes sense that it detached itself during drop testing. No issue, just touched it with a soldering iron that had some solder and reattached it to the blob of solder on the board… Quick test, IT WORKSMWAHAHAHAHA….

Keeping it packed with RTV should prevent this in the future. I only had the gasket maker type, but it worked. Bad photo, I know.

I wrapped it in electrical tape for a couple of hours after I wiped off the ooze out of RTV and it is now ready for install.

Now you can repair your Manker Boney if it should fail on you…

Those Xacto saws are great for little things like this…

Edited by: ReManG on 10/24/2015 - 13:34
JohnnyMac
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Nice write up!  There is more in that little pill than I expected.  Thanks for sharing.  Smile

Gunga
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Awesome details. Thanks!

ReManG
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JohnnyMac wrote:

Nice write up!  There is more in that little pill than I expected.  Thanks for sharing.  Smile

More than I thought in there as well! It seems that if you just drilled two small holes in each side of the metal, you could then inject RTV and the pill would be essentially solid… I don’t think heat is going to be much of an issue with this light…

WarHawk-AVG
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Great job!!!!!

The bug has bitten you…mwahahahaha

One of us!!! One of us!!!

P.S. do you have a clear shot of the components on the driver (the joule thief chips and whatnot)?

djozz
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Good work and write-up, WarHawk is right :bigsmile:

ReManG
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WarHawk-AVG wrote:
Great job!!!!!

The bug has bitten you…mwahahahaha

One of us!!! One of us!!!

P.S. do you have a clear shot of the components on the driver (the joule thief chips and whatnot)?

No the shots I posted are all I have for now.. may crack into another pill soon though… If I do, I will post better pics…

netprince
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Thanks for the write up. It’s a shame the components are not potted from the factory…

ReManG
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netprince wrote:
Thanks for the write up. It’s a shame the components are not potted from the factory…

YES, I thought they were in my review… It would be easy enough to fix for either the manufacturer or the user… A couple of small holes in the outside of the pill and a little RTV or silicone, bingo…

Even cutting them apart like I did for the fix would make it not too difficult to bulletproof the light.. It survived quite a bit of nonchalant torture before giving up though… so by no means weak out of the gate…

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great info!

that shows once again the light is very good value for the low price…

 all new deals are also posted here: deals.m4dm4x.com
if you do not find what you are looking for :

ask MARTIN@M4DM4X.COM - i will save you money!

M4D M4X
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since the NiMh Cells (Eneloop) do not deliver as much brightness as Alkaleaks….

is there a way to “push” the driver a bit? Wink

 all new deals are also posted here: deals.m4dm4x.com
if you do not find what you are looking for :

ask MARTIN@M4DM4X.COM - i will save you money!

vēer
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Good to know that its easy/simple to repair and nothing fancy when it comes to electronics, thanks for sharing ;)!

ReManG
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M4D M4X wrote:
since the NiMh Cells (Eneloop) do not deliver as much brightness as Alkaleaks….

is there a way to “push” the driver a bit? Wink

It looks like a Joule Thief circuit of some sort. I would imagine changing the size of the inductor may help… I have some of the “resistor” looking ones on the way… I knocked the inductor off of the next one I opened to fill with silicone… Shocked I will let you know how that goes.. The run time is significantly shorter on the RayoVac NiMH rechargeable AAA’s I purchased. I put it on one night and went to bed. Got up seven hours later and it was off…

ReManG
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Ordered some of THESE 270uh inductors from the ‘bay and rebuilt another pill with one…

First off, barely fit… No silicone for now, just put the halves together and as the inductor is a higher impedance one than the stock, it is dimmer. Perhaps half to two thirds the output of stock. Still plenty in a really dark place, but not so good for hunting behind a desk in a well lit room…


Components shot #1, the open pads to the left are where the previous inductor was, cant find it now… I have re-tinned the pads for the inductor already, barely any solder there originally…

A PCB Joule thief, though I am not sure about the diode, except for reverse current protection…


Two Views of the first lead soldered down…

How I bent and soldered the other leg, but had to slip some shrink wrap over it to keep the inductor leg from grounding on the LED – lead

IT FITS!!! more pics later… I want to do some runtime tests and brightness shots.

The hardest part, soldering the spring back on…

EDIT: Run time increased, made it all night on the NiMh AAA that it could not do before..

UPDATE 20 hours and still running, about3-5 lumen level at least…. This is on a WalMart RayOVac NiMh. Shows 1.264V on the battery still…

ReManG
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Got over 7 DAYS run time from this mod… Updated in OP

vēer
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Well, thats epic :D!

How come no one will make such light by default, why they release light that can run for around days or 24, but not 7 days, like yours does after mod?!

Is that so hard, are those inductors so expensive IN BULK or is it too much of hassle?

ReManG
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No, they are not that expensive. HERE are some 220uh (50 pcs) and HERE are some 270uh (100 pcs)
EDIT: These are 3mmX7mm inductors above, the ones in the pics are 4mmX10mm, so the ones above should be easier to fit…

I would think that there is a limited market for these kind of lights anyway, that would be the reason that no manufacturer makes one. They are not bright, but the 18(?) lumen stock one is not bright compared to other lights we all have anyway. The draw to these is the fact that with one AAA you can have a bit of light for a long time. I have been without electricity for some periods of time in my life, both camping and in other situations, including natural disasters. The thing is, a bit of light (4-8 lumen) is enough for doing a bunch of the “normal” things you need to do in the dark. IF it is really dark, you do not need a lot of light.

Perhaps a group buy could be organized for these modded from the factory?

I would be up for running one if there was enough interest, the only thing besides the larger inductor I would request is that there are two holes in the side of the aluminum pill. This way we could fill them with RTV or JB Weld or whatever and pot them ourselves…

Gunga
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I would buy a few of the modded ones!

vēer
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Group buy sounds great, if they potted them, even better!

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I’d applaud that — and if they’re done well and reliable, they’d become a recommended item for including in every disaster/earthquake/emergency kit.

A little light for a long, long time can be a lifesaver.

ReManG
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Mhanlen received the modded light today. He is reporting about 1.3 lumen on it. It did seem to dim after I put RTV into the pill, during the initial test it was simply pressed together.

Anyone have an idea why RTV would produce a dimmer beam?

What lumen level would be minimum for a light like this?

Would a five day run time off of a single AAA be sufficient?

Let me know here…

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I’ll upload this before I get to bed for the night. Here’s a quick visual comparison between the ReManG’ed Manker Boney in the center. All lights are set to their lowest mode. From Left, Sunwayman D40A NW, Olight S1, Manker Boney, A6 BLF Edition 5A tint, Fenix LD15 (7 lumen mode). You can see the Fenix is probably the brightest of the bunch, followed by The Manker and the D40A on it’s moonlight mode. The tints on the Manker and the Sunwayman are pretty similar.

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1.3 is pretty low. I’d still buy at least a couple for emergencies but that’s dim for a 1 mode light.

ReManG
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Gunga wrote:
1.3 is pretty low. I’d still buy at least a couple for emergencies but that’s dim for a 1 mode light.

Yeah, I am kinda bummed about it being so low… The thing is, during the initial test, I just closed the pill and put it back in the head to run it. It did seem brighter during that week long run, especially initially.

I got done with it and modded another as I was happy with the results, then just filled them with the low odor black RTV and let them cure. I tried the one out the day before I was to mail it out to Mhanlen and it seemed significantly dimmer… well, nuts… The other one was roughly matching the first mod… Grrrrrr, was it this dim initially???

I do have lower uH inductors on the way to try as well, this should make them brighter. I have enough of these lights that I will try the 180, 220 and the original 270 uH side by side. The problem is I have no way to measure actual lumen on them…

I am still having fun, even with this set back…

vēer
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Take your time, guys ;)!

And thanks for making these tests!

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Ok, so a bit of a delay. Been seriously sick and also have family-in-law in town. But started the test today at 9:40a. The alkaline Duracell Procells give a slightly higher output at 1.5 lumens- than the eneloops. Since I’m gone for about 10 hours in the day during the week, I probably won’t know exactly when it goes dead, but I will check on it several times a day.

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Start…. 10-16-15… 9:40AM, 1.50 lumens (6.0 lux).
Day 2… 10-17-15… 1:54PM, 1.19 lumens (4.6 lux).
Day 3… 10-18-15… 9:06PM, 1.06 lumens (4.1 lux). Elapsed time: 2 days 11 hrs. 26 mins.
Day 4… 10-19-15… 9:17PM, 1.01 lumens (3.9 lux). Elapsed time: 3 days 11 hrs. 37 mins.
Day 5… 10-20-15… 8:51PM, 0.93 lumens (3.6 lux). Elapsed time: 4 days 11 hrs. 13 mins.
Day 6… 10-22-15… 4:20AM, 0.78 lumens (3.0 lux). Elapsed time: 5 days 18 hrs. 40 mins.
Day 6… 10-22-15… 9:00PM, 0.65 lumens (2.5 lux). Elapsed time: 6 days 11 hrs. 20 mins.
Day 7… 10-23-15… 5:30PM, 0.44 lumens (1.7 lux). Elapsed time: 7 days 07 hrs. 50 mins.

brad
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I thought the idea was to have a long running AAA 5 lumen flashlight?

ReManG
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brad wrote:
I thought the idea was to have a long running AAA 5 lumen flashlight?

Yup, and It looks like I will not be renting my eyes out as a LUX meter anytime soon. It is now dimmer than when I first did the test, for some reason it dimmed when I potted it in RTV. On top of that, it was maybe 2-3 lumen at most if what Mhanlen is seeing as 1 lumen on his test equipment.

I did get in the 220uH inductors today and I will crack another pill open to get those in and see how bright it is. I have another with the 270uH inductor installed already.

This is obviously a work in progress, so we shall see what we can get out of a single AAA and 3-5 lumen for max run time….

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My Manker Boney arrived today, it can’t be 18 lumens, has anyone here tested it?

My E01 seems much brighter than the Manker, at the price I got it for it is a cute light, but it would have been nicer at more than the 6 or 8 lumens that it appears to be.

My LD01 at 3 Fenix lumens for 27 hours, is almost equal in brightness.

ReManG
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brad wrote:
My Manker Boney arrived today, it can’t be 18 lumens, has anyone here tested it?

My E01 seems much brighter than the Manker, at the price I got it for it is a cute light, but it would have been nicer at more than the 6 or 8 lumens that it appears to be.

My LD01 at 3 Fenix lumens for 27 hours, is almost equal in brightness.

I believe in my initial review I thought it may have been 10 lumen or so… Ironically, if I am consistent with my doubling of lumen estimates, it may very well be 5-6 lumen…

I really need a lux meter… LOL

Mhanlen is updating his readings as well, so far at four days, it has faded just 0.57 lumen to just below one lumen at 0.93…

Seven days and lost 2/3 of the output. Now how to increase the output a bit, and not totally kill the runtime..

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