BLF A6 FET+7135 Light Troubleshooting and Mod thread

1004 posts / 0 new
Last post
keengeorge
Offline
Last seen: 9 months 5 days ago
Joined: 04/26/2014 - 01:04
Posts: 1819
Location: Australia

Far Thrower wrote:
Hi guys.

have bought this BLF light a while back and used it a bit.

The diagram for Toykeeper’s UI won’t work on the link that it should go to.

Where can I find a workable copy of the UI?

I have the text version.

Thanks in advance.

G'Day Far Thrower,  smile

 

Have a look at:

BLF A6 Final: UI__blf-a6-ui.png (PNG 600×956 pixels)

http://toykeeper.net/torches/blf-a6/final/blf-a6-ui.png

 

Best Regards,

George

 

 

 

Beanz
Offline
Last seen: 5 years 8 months ago
Joined: 03/30/2016 - 00:37
Posts: 5

Hello everyone – If this is the wrong place to ask this question, please let me know where I should go.

I’m a complete flashlight noob, but I did some minor research and found the BLF A6. So I purchased the flashlight and it works fantastic.

Only issue is the tailcap seems to need to be really REALLY cranked down hard before the flashlight will function. Basically, to get the flashlight to operate, I have to tighten the cap essentially as much as I possibly can by hand. Is this normal to require this much force? I’m afraid that by tightening it down this much every time I swap out the battery for a fresh one (to put the spent one on the charger) that I will make the tailcap need even more force every subsequent time.

Thanks for any help you can provide!

vulpes
vulpes's picture
Offline
Last seen: 9 months 6 days ago
Joined: 08/20/2015 - 17:15
Posts: 300
Location: Bosnia and Herzegovina

It’s not normal, yours has a bit too short battery tube.
You can bend a paperclip and insert it in tailcap, to make contact with tube. That will fix it.

Since you mentioned eventualy needing more force to tighten, my A6 doesn’t agree. I’ve carried it daily for maybe a month without unscrewing tailcap, and it got tightened on its own that I couldn’t unscrew it. Luckily, I have some strong friends. Big Smile

Beanz
Offline
Last seen: 5 years 8 months ago
Joined: 03/30/2016 - 00:37
Posts: 5

vulpes wrote:
It’s not normal, yours has a bit too short battery tube.
You can bend a paperclip and insert it in tailcap, to make contact with tube. That will fix it.

Since you mentioned eventualy needing more force to tighten, my A6 doesn’t agree. I’ve carried it daily for maybe a month without unscrewing tailcap, and it got tightened on its own that I couldn’t unscrew it. Luckily, I have some strong friends. Big Smile


Thanks for the reply! Is this something that I can ask Banggood to replace? I kinda hate to start sticking paperclips in my flashlight just to make it function properly when it’s brand new!

Much appreciated!

JakeDjanitor
Offline
Last seen: 1 year 8 months ago
Joined: 10/27/2015 - 09:00
Posts: 952
Location: North East USA

Beanz wrote:
vulpes wrote:
It’s not normal, yours has a bit too short battery tube.
You can bend a paperclip and insert it in tailcap, to make contact with tube. That will fix it.

Since you mentioned eventualy needing more force to tighten, my A6 doesn’t agree. I’ve carried it daily for maybe a month without unscrewing tailcap, and it got tightened on its own that I couldn’t unscrew it. Luckily, I have some strong friends. Big Smile


Thanks for the reply! Is this something that I can ask Banggood to replace? I kinda hate to start sticking paperclips in my flashlight just to make it function properly when it’s brand new!

Much appreciated!

I would ask for a replacement. that is unacceptable.
convoy s2 seems like more of a durable EDC to me. a6 is cool, but it does not seem built solid enough to withstand normal use.
my opinion. I may or may not be tougher on my stuff than you.

SIGShooter
SIGShooter's picture
Offline
Last seen: 2 hours 12 min ago
Joined: 07/14/2013 - 02:10
Posts: 2279
Location: northern california

Beanz wrote:
vulpes wrote:
It’s not normal, yours has a bit too short battery tube.
You can bend a paperclip and insert it in tailcap, to make contact with tube. That will fix it.

Since you mentioned eventualy needing more force to tighten, my A6 doesn’t agree. I’ve carried it daily for maybe a month without unscrewing tailcap, and it got tightened on its own that I couldn’t unscrew it. Luckily, I have some strong friends. Big Smile


Thanks for the reply! Is this something that I can ask Banggood to replace? I kinda hate to start sticking paperclips in my flashlight just to make it function properly when it’s brand new!

Much appreciated!

It’s much easier to slightly raise the retaining ring by removing it and then shimming it up. You can do that by using thin braided wire, aluminum foil, etc. You can even use a bit of solder on the inside of the ring. To be honest it’s not worth the effort to contact Banggood over such a minor issue. It’s probably 10 minutes of work.
BLightSam
Offline
Last seen: 2 years 11 months ago
Joined: 11/13/2012 - 03:08
Posts: 1559
Location: USA

Beanz wrote:
Thanks for the reply! Is this something that I can ask Banggood to replace? I kinda hate to start sticking paperclips in my flashlight just to make it function properly when it’s brand new!
See this post and the next several posts:

djozz #4800
http://budgetlightforum.com/comment/810598#comment-810598

The only problem might be the correct length tube is out of stock or no longer made.

Beanz
Offline
Last seen: 5 years 8 months ago
Joined: 03/30/2016 - 00:37
Posts: 5

Oh good find! Yeah, sounds exactly like my issue. I’ll take it up with Banggood and see if they will come through for me.

SIGShooter – Definitely can’t argue with your logic. Only issue though is I don’t have the equipment to solder and I’ve never done it before or ever modded a light in any fashion. Might take 10 minutes for someone experienced at this, but you get me doing this for the first time and I will probably just break it more.

BLightSam
Offline
Last seen: 2 years 11 months ago
Joined: 11/13/2012 - 03:08
Posts: 1559
Location: USA

@Beanz,

In the mean time try this paperclip trick:

09/09/2015 #5132
ToyKeeper

http://budgetlightforum.com/comment/814366#comment-814366

Beanz
Offline
Last seen: 5 years 8 months ago
Joined: 03/30/2016 - 00:37
Posts: 5

BLightSam wrote:
@Beanz,

In the mean time try this paperclip trick:

09/09/2015 #5132
ToyKeeper

http://budgetlightforum.com/comment/814366#comment-814366


Appreciate the trick! I’ll definitely try that tonight and see how it goes.
SIGShooter
SIGShooter's picture
Offline
Last seen: 2 hours 12 min ago
Joined: 07/14/2013 - 02:10
Posts: 2279
Location: northern california

Beanz wrote:
Oh good find! Yeah, sounds exactly like my issue. I’ll take it up with Banggood and see if they will come through for me.

SIGShooter – Definitely can’t argue with your logic. Only issue though is I don’t have the equipment to solder and I’ve never done it before or ever modded a light in any fashion. Might take 10 minutes for someone experienced at this, but you get me doing this for the first time and I will probably just break it more.


If you remove the retaining ring you can fold some aluminum foil into a circular shape and place it over the switch. Just make sure you don’t have it touching the spring. Then reinstall the retaining ring and see if it lights up. If not make the aluminum foil thicker until the flashlight works properly. The times I’ve had to do this I used spare computer wire and squished it as flat as I could with pliers. But anything that conducts electricity works and since it’s under the ring it’s not going anywhere.

To remove the ring you can use tweezers or needle nose pliers. But in some cases where the rings were really tight I just drove 2 nails through a piece of wood and bent them until they were the right distance apart for the holes in the ring.

For me it’s a better solution than using a paper clip since the clip will fall out when you remove the tail cap. Plus the paper clip is not aesthetically pleasing Smile

Once you’ve shimmed up the ring nobody will ever know it’s there. Since it lights up when you torque the tail cap down you likely don’t need to shim it much.

I say give it a try…I bet you’ll get it to work properly in only few minutes. And flashlights are far from precision instruments so it’s not as if you can cause any major damage.

Beanz
Offline
Last seen: 5 years 8 months ago
Joined: 03/30/2016 - 00:37
Posts: 5

Ok, that doesn’t sound too bad. I’ll give that a shot and see how it goes! You are right, paper clip might be a quick and dirty way to fix it, but then yeah, not aesthetically pleasing plus it will always fall out and just be a general nuisance.

Thanks for giving more detail to this flashlight newbie!

dudunphy
dudunphy's picture
Offline
Last seen: 3 months 3 weeks ago
Joined: 07/28/2015 - 12:22
Posts: 409
Location: Colorado

JakeDjanitor wrote:
Beanz wrote:
vulpes wrote:
It’s not normal, yours has a bit too short battery tube.
You can bend a paperclip and insert it in tailcap, to make contact with tube. That will fix it.

Since you mentioned eventualy needing more force to tighten, my A6 doesn’t agree. I’ve carried it daily for maybe a month without unscrewing tailcap, and it got tightened on its own that I couldn’t unscrew it. Luckily, I have some strong friends. Big Smile


Thanks for the reply! Is this something that I can ask Banggood to replace? I kinda hate to start sticking paperclips in my flashlight just to make it function properly when it’s brand new!

Much appreciated!

I would ask for a replacement. that is unacceptable.
convoy s2 seems like more of a durable EDC to me. a6 is cool, but it does not seem built solid enough to withstand normal use.
my opinion. I may or may not be tougher on my stuff than you.

It’s too bad you guys are having these issues. I edc my one of my original gb blf a6 lights and I’m still in love with it. JakeDjanitor I would be willing to bet a spring bypass would help a lot. If the wire that’s used in the bypass sucks in any solder during the mod it would help stiffen the springs. Also guys don’t forget to check out the very first post in this thread! I can’t even remember everything in it but it should still help out even with future lights you get. Wink

Dustin

BLightSam
Offline
Last seen: 2 years 11 months ago
Joined: 11/13/2012 - 03:08
Posts: 1559
Location: USA

dudunphy wrote:
JakeDjanitor I would be willing to bet a spring bypass would help a lot. If the wire that’s used in the bypass sucks in any solder during the mod it would help stiffen the springs.
Stiffening the spring would make it harder to make a connection.
Is modding required with the A6 GB?
ToyKeeper
ToyKeeper's picture
Offline
Last seen: 2 days 14 hours ago
Joined: 01/12/2013 - 14:40
Posts: 10784
Location: (469219) 2016 HO3

JakeDjanitor wrote:
convoy s2 seems like more of a durable EDC to me. a6 is cool, but it does not seem built solid …

The A6 prototype samples were great, indistinguishable from the original EE version. Unfortunately, the production units were significantly lower-quality. Sad

I hear the Astrolux version of it may have returned the quality to what the samples had, but I don’t have any so I can’t verify it.

Meanwhile, Convoy has maintained high quality hosts since the company first started, aside from a couple hiccups which got quickly fixed.

SIGShooter
SIGShooter's picture
Offline
Last seen: 2 hours 12 min ago
Joined: 07/14/2013 - 02:10
Posts: 2279
Location: northern california

ToyKeeper wrote:
JakeDjanitor wrote:
convoy s2 seems like more of a durable EDC to me. a6 is cool, but it does not seem built solid …

The A6 prototype samples were great, indistinguishable from the original EE version. Unfortunately, the production units were significantly lower-quality. Sad

I hear the Astrolux version of it may have returned the quality to what the samples had, but I don’t have any so I can’t verify it.

Meanwhile, Convoy has maintained high quality hosts since the company first started, aside from a couple hiccups which got quickly fixed.

At this point one can put together a Convoy S2 host, Banggood blf driver, and xml-2/xp-l on a noctigon board for around $20 so that’s the route I would take rather than buying an Astrolux. Actually I’d go with the MTN-17DDm driver and it’s still less than $30.

Better quality and the pride of self-assembly Smile

hank
hank's picture
Offline
Last seen: 3 days 3 hours ago
Joined: 09/04/2011 - 21:52
Posts: 9599
Location: Berkeley, California

Quote:
Banggood blf driver

But a “blf“painted on doesn’t mean it’s well made now.

So go to MtnElectronics for a quality driver.

SIGShooter
SIGShooter's picture
Offline
Last seen: 2 hours 12 min ago
Joined: 07/14/2013 - 02:10
Posts: 2279
Location: northern california

hank wrote:
Quote:
Banggood blf driver

But a “blf“painted on doesn’t mean it’s well made now.

So go to MtnElectronics for a quality driver.

I’ve assembled several lights with both drivers and to be honest I don’t noticed any difference in performance. Now I’m not saying that there isn’t a performance or quality difference but my Mark 1 eyeball and volt meter don’t show any noticeable differences. Both look the same on a side-by-side visual comparison and draw about the same amps on my meter.

I just assembled a new version Convoy M1 host with the blf driver and also put a Mtn one into a spare M1 (old version with pill). Both with xml-2’s from Mtn on noctigon boards. Running Samsung 30Q’s in both I could only see that the Mtn version had 1) a lower low (good), and 2) the bike flasher mode barely functioned (almost a constant beam but a very brief and barely noticeable blip every 5 seconds or so). Since i’m not planning on riding a bike at night #2 is a non-issue.

I also dropped the blf version into other lights and they worked as expected.

Don’t get me wrong here, I’m definitely not saying that the blf driver is better than the Mtn one. And I have no doubt that the quality control on the Mtn driver surpassed Banggood’s.

But for someone on a budget the blf driver isn’t a terrible choice.

hank
hank's picture
Offline
Last seen: 3 days 3 hours ago
Joined: 09/04/2011 - 21:52
Posts: 9599
Location: Berkeley, California

> I don’t noticed any difference
Yep. Just saying, the observed pattern — widely reported here and elsewhere —
is that products look good at the beginning then get worse as time goes on as corners get cut.

Many here have made that observation.

So I think it’s worth pointing out suppliers like RMM who consistently get us the same quality time after time.

This matters for people who may read this thread next month or next year.

“Trust, but verify.”

Travelr
Offline
Last seen: 5 months 1 week ago
Joined: 02/21/2016 - 19:15
Posts: 16

I have the Astrolux version of the A6 and I’m using it as my edc with the short tube. It’s a great light, and I’m happy with the quality, only issue was the short tube had anodizing on one end that I had to file off. I now have an Al set of X5/X6 and will hopefully have a Cometa soon. I ordered a Mtn driver with the Bistro firmware for the A6 – at that point I’ll have a 4 light Bistro set! Of course, that assumes I will figure out how to swap the drivers (will be my first flashlight mod, hopefully not too much of a stretch!).

My other planned mod is to swap the tailcap resistor on my X5, I like the lighted tailcap but it is too bright and I’d prefer a longer shelf life with the tailcap on, otherwise it is an awesome light (still debating whether to use it as my edc instead of my A6). Fingers crossed on the mods!
Wieselflinkpro
Wieselflinkpro's picture
Offline
Last seen: 2 months 4 weeks ago
Joined: 05/21/2015 - 04:34
Posts: 980
Location: Germany - TLF

Travelr wrote:
I have the Astrolux version of the A6 and I’m using it as my edc with the short tube. … I now have an Al set of X5/X6 and will hopefully have a Cometa soon. I ordered a Mtn driver with the Bistro firmware for the A6 –
at that point I’ll have a 4 light Bistro set!

Bistro firmware is only in the X5/X6 and not in the A6. So you will have 3 light Bistro set.
At The A6 or S1 you can only cange 4 or 7 brightness levels and you dont have a temperature sensor.
Travelr
Offline
Last seen: 5 months 1 week ago
Joined: 02/21/2016 - 19:15
Posts: 16

That could be, as I’m very new to the flashlight addiction. But I ordered the following driver from MTN: http://www.mtnelectronics.com/index.php?route=product/product&path=67_11...

I was planning to use it to replace the driver in my Astrolux S1 (not 100% sure that will work, but I thought so). Then I would have Bistro on that light. If not, let me know, I really like the light and don’t want to ruin it…

dudunphy
dudunphy's picture
Offline
Last seen: 3 months 3 weeks ago
Joined: 07/28/2015 - 12:22
Posts: 409
Location: Colorado
BLightSam wrote:
dudunphy wrote:
JakeDjanitor I would be willing to bet a spring bypass would help a lot. If the wire that’s used in the bypass sucks in any solder during the mod it would help stiffen the springs.
Stiffening the spring would make it harder to make a connection. Is modding required with the A6 GB?

Modding is required always! Cool All joking aside…. Djanitor had mentioned that the light flickered. I’m under the impression that he got the crappier(is that a word?) springs in his light. (The ones that sag after use of turbo.) Therefore adding a spring bypass especially the type I had done when I first started made the springs stronger. (I used old speaker wire that is not very flexible.) Also this would help the weak spring by taking some of the amperage. Stretch out those springs, stiffen em’ up and viola! No more flicker. Unless he’s having a tailcap issue….

Dustin

dracothraxus
Offline
Last seen: 3 months 1 week ago
Joined: 04/16/2016 - 05:59
Posts: 10
Location: Australia

Hi,

Going a little insane trying to debug (have read and tried most tips I can find) a new BLF A6 from Banggood, hoping to get some tips for anything left to try.

- initially didn’t turn on at all
- has fully charged 18650 battery (Protected Mi (masterinstruments?) TB-18650IC31 model), in it, battery separately reads about 4.2 V on multimeter. Negative end of battery is at the tail end of the light.
- using a knife to short the negative battery with the tubing I was able to very occasionally get a brief light flicker maybe 4 or 5 times over a few hours of debugging. Not very repeatable.
- same connecting negative battery whilst in tubing to the tubing via a paperclip, get a very hard to repeat brief bright flash of light
- tubing is around the right way, longer thread part is at the tail end
- if I take the light housing off and read the positive and negative terminals on the (driver???) board (the red board on the front of the light), when clicking the tail end switch I get a reading of 0 volts alternating with either 0.18 volts, ~0.3 volts or ~1.8 volts. Nothing appears to light up in any of these cases.
- using a multimeter I’ve checked both retaining rings, they both appear to have good contacts with what’s below them
- have tried rolled paperclips at both ends, no joy
- if I connective the negative battery end (while battery is in the tubing) to the tubing at the tail end via a multimeter, I get a reading of about 4.2 V.

Any ideas – it seems a “special” case given I did get a few very brief light ups using the knife short trick, and given that when switching the button I do get some voltage reading across the driver board.

Any help for things to try much appreciated before I go back to Banggood.

Thanks,

Michael

dudunphy
dudunphy's picture
Offline
Last seen: 3 months 3 weeks ago
Joined: 07/28/2015 - 12:22
Posts: 409
Location: Colorado

Depends on how far your willing to dig into it. Pics of the driver would probably help. You can to get to the driver by removing the upper retaining ring.

Dustin

ReManG
Offline
Last seen: 7 months 3 days ago
Joined: 04/25/2015 - 22:52
Posts: 2668
Location: Between the Mexico's

dracothraxus wrote:
Hi,

Going a little insane trying to debug (have read and tried most tips I can find) a new BLF A6 from Banggood, hoping to get some tips for anything left to try.

- initially didn’t turn on at all
- has fully charged 18650 battery (Protected Mi (masterinstruments?) TB-18650IC31 model), in it, battery separately reads about 4.2 V on multimeter. Negative end of battery is at the tail end of the light.
- using a knife to short the negative battery with the tubing I was able to very occasionally get a brief light flicker maybe 4 or 5 times over a few hours of debugging. Not very repeatable.
- same connecting negative battery whilst in tubing to the tubing via a paperclip, get a very hard to repeat brief bright flash of light
- tubing is around the right way, longer thread part is at the tail end
- if I take the light housing off and read the positive and negative terminals on the (driver???) board (the red board on the front of the light), when clicking the tail end switch I get a reading of 0 volts alternating with either 0.18 volts, ~0.3 volts or ~1.8 volts. Nothing appears to light up in any of these cases.
- using a multimeter I’ve checked both retaining rings, they both appear to have good contacts with what’s below them
- have tried rolled paperclips at both ends, no joy
- if I connective the negative battery end (while battery is in the tubing) to the tubing at the tail end via a multimeter, I get a reading of about 4.2 V.

Any ideas – it seems a “special” case given I did get a few very brief light ups using the knife short trick, and given that when switching the button I do get some voltage reading across the driver board.

Any help for things to try much appreciated before I go back to Banggood.

Thanks,

Michael

That sounds like a bad driver… You should contact Banggood for a replacement light. Be prepared to play some customer service games, but send them pics and a video to show them it doesn’t work.

Your troubleshooting sounds as thorough as it needs to be. There was some talk about the tail switch having the lit tailcap PCB for the K6/X6, so maybe check by removing the tail cap retaining ring and removing the switch… If you see components next to the actual switch body on the PCB, post some pics and we can see what to do…

Rusty Joe
Rusty Joe's picture
Online
Last seen: 12 min 13 sec ago
Joined: 07/24/2011 - 00:22
Posts: 3625
Location: Houston, TX

Should I cancel my order? This thread makes me want to do that. I ordered one just today, but I have no intention of dealing with whines or modding. Is it worth it?

dudunphy
dudunphy's picture
Offline
Last seen: 3 months 3 weeks ago
Joined: 07/28/2015 - 12:22
Posts: 409
Location: Colorado

I would say this light is worth it. I have both group buy and the lights that came out after. Think of it this way… People aren’t coming to this thread to praise this light. They are coming here to ask questions. My friends and I have 7 of these between us with zero issues.

Dustin

Rufusbduck
Rufusbduck's picture
Offline
Last seen: 7 months 1 week ago
Joined: 04/04/2012 - 15:34
Posts: 10389
Location: Golden state

Try the paper clip under the driver retaining ring. One occasional issue was the threading for the retaining ring not being cut far enough into the head. This means the driver only has contact on one dude and isn’t clamped. The driver is press fit so it doesn’t feel loose even when contact is poor. The driver needs to press bare metal on both faces or it might behave this way.

Three Tanna leaves to give him life, nine to give him movement. But what if he eats the whole bag?

Scott

dracothraxus
Offline
Last seen: 3 months 1 week ago
Joined: 04/16/2016 - 05:59
Posts: 10
Location: Australia

Hi everyone and thanks for all the suggestions and help, and I’ve started the process with banggood.

I did some more debugging focusing on the head unit, photos attached.

With the multimeter in continuity mode, I can turn the bulb on in two ways:

- touching multimeter positive and negative leads directly across the driver board positive and negatives -

- touching the multimeter positive to the spring at the back of the head unit and the negative multimeter lead to the driver board’s negative -

I have evaluated the connectivity of the outer silver ring at the back of the head unit, and it doesn’t appear to be connected to anything. Is this the driver retaining ring the previous poster (Rufusbduck) was talking about? I don’t get any continuity signal when touching it and any of the following: the middle gold ring, the spring, or either the positive or negative connection on the front of the driver board

What’s the next step – can I pry it up and try and make it connect to the back of the driver board (connect to the “dudes” referred to in previous post) somehow?

Thanks again,

Michael

Pages