BLF A6 FET+7135 Light Troubleshooting and Mod thread

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DEL
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Looks like your ring was forgotten. The driver is only held in there by friction.
Demand a new head (or just a ring, if you are willing to fashion a tool to screw it in).

The head should look like this, from the OP:

dracothraxus
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Sorry my bad I should have clarified that I removed the ring from the back of the driver to check connectivity.

If I put the retaining ring back in the head, with or without a paperclip below it, I don’t get any continuity between the retaining ring and any of the connections on the front of the driver board (building on top of previous tests, where without the retaining ring in the head the only way I get continuity from anything at the back to the front is by connecting multimeter leads to the back spring and either front connections.

DEL
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The PCB ground track will not show continuity to either of the two LED terminals. The active part of the driver sits in series between the ring and the LED cathode.

Try to measure with a fine-tipped probe for continuity between the ring and the sliver of driver track that protrudes from underneath the ring. Alternative to the paperclip: You can add 3-4 bumps of solder to the driver ground track, if the ring does not make good contact or does not screw down far enough.

Soldering on some of these drivers is not great. The next thing to check would be the other side of the driver. It should come out without excessive prying.

dracothraxus
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OK thanks again for your support, some significant progress and a further question after following your suggestions and insights.

There is good continuity between the head retaining ring and the sliver of driver track that protrudes from underneath the ring, both with and without a paperclip. So that part is fine.

I then reassambled the light (I have periodically done this) and was able to momentarily get quite a bright light (blinded me) output. It was intermittent, sensitive to physical movement and tapping of the light, and turned off most of the time. This would suggest to me the possibility that there’s a dodgy solder somewhere…

So next step is what you suggested – checking the other side of the driver. I’m just not 100% sure about how hard to pry it out – do I pry it out from the light/star side, or from the spring side (from the light/star side, there is a metal plate below the light board which doesn’t look very movable)? With the retainer ring removed on the spring side, the driver appears to be “stuck” in place (possibly with some adhesive?) and won’t budge easily with some exploratory tweezer work. Do I need to melt something or just pry it out by inserting something sharp into one of the two slight indents between the silver ring and gold ring:

giorgoskok
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To remove the driver , you have to desolder the wires from the LED side .

dracothraxus
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Thanks, I did see that in the instructions, but even now with some “play” in those wires, the driver seems fairly stuck – to confirm, it should (once LED wires desoldered), come out through the back of the head unit or the front?

giorgoskok
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From the back of the head , as your photo shows on your previous post .
Even how it is , it should move a liitle out .

DEL
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The driver should not be glued. It is typically just the perforation remains, from where the PCB was attached to the bigger sheet of driver boards, that makes it a tight fit.

You need some kind of sharp pick to gently pry/hook/pull on the the two flat edges. You can also use something like a toothpick to push from the other side, through the LED wire holes, at the risk of damaging some components on the PCB.

Rufusbduck
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Just to clarify, the led is soldered to the red metal core printed circuit board(mcpcb) and the driver pcb which you only see from the spring side has all of the control chips on it. Use a tooth pick rather than anything metal and just push it through one if the led wire holes to push the driver out of its seat. It’s just a press fit. The retaining ring pressing on the driver is what grounds the driver to the bare metal of the seat it rests in allowing current to flow between battery , the switch, the tube, the head, and the driver which controls current on the – side of the led. Battery + feeds both the driver and the led so you should have continuity between the spring and led+. Sometimes one of the solder bumps on the led mcpcb is too tall and shorts to the reflector. If that happens on the led bump the driver is bypassed and you get single mode Direct Drive. If it happens on the led+ side you get no light and possibly an overheated spring(loses temper and spring compression) which looks darkened. Even if you fix the short the spring has lost it’s temper and generally doesn’t maintain battery contact well leading to intermittent operation. If the springs look good then chances are at this point that is an issue with the driver, either poor soldering or a bad component. When you pull the driver inspect the wires where they pass through the holes for any cuts as sometimes the mcpcb will twist as the bezel is tightened and the insulation gets cut.

Three Tanna leaves to give him life, nine to give him movement. But what if he eats the whole bag?

Scott

jescereal
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Has anyone noticed any issues using this driver with the new Nichia NVSL219C D320 triple board?

More specifically in a 15 amp Convoy S2 triple with all springs bypassed, 30Q battery, copper heatsink soldered onto pill, and MCPCB soldered onto heatsink, strobe mode only works sometimes. Not most of the time.

It strobes a few times, then either goes into moonlight mode, or shuts off completely. Sometimes it strobes only 2-3 blinks, then does this behavior.

I had built the light originally with the driver in the Kronos X6, and it also acted weird. With a 30Q, turbo mode only lasted a very short split-second, and strobe mode was non-functional. When I used an NCR18650B, it behaved normally and everything functioned fine. It seems like it has something to do with the amp draw, but I’m no expert.

Rusty Joe
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Ok, how do I program this thing. Cannot figure out how

dracothraxus
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Thanks – I’ve desoldered the led but can’t for the life of me get the driver to pop out of its seat (have removed the driver retaining ring). I’ve tried multiple toothpicks, tried hammering on the toothpick, they just break after a lot of force is applied. Have tried picking at the driver from those two slots with tweezers, but it won’t budge. Tried running the soldering iron around the outside of the driver to “loosen” any imaginary adhesive or solder there but no luck.

Have even tried (bad probably) pulling on the driver spring with pliers but no luck!

I’m going to ping back banggood again.

Arrrgg

M

Rufusbduck
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I feel your pain. Modding isn’t always straight forward and often ends with more damage than you started with. I haven’t seen one quite as stuck as yours but statistically somebody had to draw the short straw. Under normal circumstances solder won’t adhere to aluminum and I haven’t heard of them using glue but stranger things have happened. It sounds like removing the driver might require enough force to damage it so you should probably have a spare ready.

Three Tanna leaves to give him life, nine to give him movement. But what if he eats the whole bag?

Scott

djozz
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Yes, unfortunately a significantly amount of the time modding is spent repairing stuff you scr#wed up. And in my case searching for small parts that I dropped or just left at bizarre unlikely locations. Sad

Corzy
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Hi guys,

Recently got hold of a BLF A6 Black and just noticed something off.

Mine seems to be missing the center LED plastic gasket.

Does anyone know what how to get hold of one or is anyone else’s light is the same?

Does this missing part cause any issues to the light or beam?

Thank you.

Also posted under ‘Flashlight Modding and DIY Parts’ mods can delete that if its redundant.

giorgoskok
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You mean the led centering ring ?
It’s in there , the white ring around the led .

Corzy
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Hi giorgoskok,

I noticed in most other pics of the BLF A6, the rings cover the red driver board like the one below.

Any ideas why?

giorgoskok
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Your flashlight is normal.
In later production , they changed the Led mcpcb (pcb the led is on) , from white to red .

djozz
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giorgoskok wrote:
Your flashlight is normal.
In later production , they changed the Led mcpcb (pcb the led is on) , from white to red .

They changed the plastic centering ring too, the new one is actually better, it will less likely twist the dome off the led when the flashlight head is being removed.
giorgoskok
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I have 3 , and all these 3 have the “new” one . i didn’t know it

Corzy
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Wow guys. Thanks a bunch.

Great knowing all that information.

Puts my mind at ease.

hank
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Quote:
They changed the plastic centering ring too, the new one is actually better, it will less likely twist the dome off the led when the flashlight head is being removed.

Anyone know where to get the new ones? I’ve done enough accidental de-doming for now.
Yeah, I know, if it’s working why try taking it apart … well, just because.

patmurris
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Not sure this is the place for this qc issue… Just in case someone else has seen this.

I received a bare aluminum A6 two weeks ago and the head section is very slightly skewed. It is hard to notice, but i can feel it with my fingers. On one side there is a slightly wider gap between the head and the body and i can feel the head is not perfectly aligned with the body too.

The threads look fine – no cross threading, and the head screws in and out smoothly… I can’t really tell what’s wrong. It would seem the inner threads in the head have been done with a slight angle… No idea really.

I’m a bit disappointed of course, but i can live with it. I won’t go into playing customer service game with BG for that. Still… it is a surprising qc mishap for a BLF light… I don’t think i have ever seen a skewed part like that, even in the cheapest chinese lights i’v bought over the years.

Did anybody have some similar (machining?) issue?

keengeorge
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patmurris wrote:
Not sure this is the place for this qc issue… Just in case someone else has seen this.

I received a bare aluminum A6 two weeks ago and the head section is very slightly skewed. It is hard to notice, but i can feel it with my fingers. On one side there is a slightly wider gap between the head and the body and i can feel the head is not perfectly aligned with the body too.

The threads look fine – no cross threading, and the head screws in and out smoothly… I can’t really tell what’s wrong. It would seem the inner threads in the head have been done with a slight angle… No idea really.

I’m a bit disappointed of course, but i can live with it. I won’t go into playing customer service game with BG for that. Still… it is a surprising qc mishap for a BLF light… I don’t think i have ever seen a skewed part like that, even in the cheapest chinese lights i’v bought over the years.

Did anybody have some similar (machining?) issue?

I bought quite a few anodised & bare BLF A6's, & none of them have that "misalignment" issue (I just checked them in case I had missed it).

I don't think it will help, but check the O-ring & make sure it is in its proper position, & not skewed.

 

Best Regards,

George

 

Rufusbduck
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Sounds like they cut the threads with the head or tube not correctly centered(runout not close to zero). Sounds like something I would do had I the opportunity to make that mistake. Magnification might show which is the faulty part and you could ask for a replacement. If it’s the pill section and not the bezel or tube make sure to request it with driver and emitter installed if you cannot do that yourself. Exchanging parts with another host might also identify the culprit.

Three Tanna leaves to give him life, nine to give him movement. But what if he eats the whole bag?

Scott

ozark
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While troubleshooting the switch in my A6 I notice it works perfect while not installed in the tail cap. It’s when the retaining ring is starting to tighten down that the switch turns on, (shows continuity) through the circuit. There are no solder blobs on the switch legs that could touch the side of the tail cap. I’m not sure what else to check, any help could be appreciated.
hank
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Check the flexible colored plastic switch cap. Does it seem to stick up and feel firm when the switch ring is tight?
Does it have a little cylindrical bump on the inside, that transfers your push down onto the actual switch?

If so that might be a bit too long, and you can shave it a bit at a time.

djozz
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My bare BLF-A6 is very loose between the bezel threads, I have build it into a triple and had the spacer a tiny bit too thick so that the bezel part did not close fully, and when screwed tight the head pulled itself in an angle. Then I made the spacer a bit thinner and now the bezel part closes right against the head and that aligned the bezel.

patmurris
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Rufusbduck wrote:
Sounds like they cut the threads with the head or tube not correctly centered(runout not close to zero)… Exchanging parts with another host might also identify the culprit.

I tried swapping the front part between the faulty bare and an anodized and the bare head is wrong somewhere.

djozz wrote:
My bare BLF-A6 is very loose between the bezel threads, I have build it into a triple and had the spacer a tiny bit too thick so that the bezel part did not close fully, and when screwed tight the head pulled itself in an angle. Then I made the spacer a bit thinner and now the bezel part closes right against the head and that aligned the bezel.

I get the idea… i think. I’ll look into that. Thanks.

Edit: i removed the white centering ring at the bottom of the reflector (is that the spacer?) on the bare head and it seems to fix the small angle. However the bezel still does not align with the body. It’s OD is a tad larger then the body which is not the case on the ano i think…

dracothraxus
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Update to my initial problem as described over pages 24 and 25:

After some back and forth Banggood is now sending out another head unit, with no further service beyond that (which sounds reasonable for a budget provider).

And I bought a second one, which arrived today – pop the battery in, and it just works, all the modeshow life is meant to be. I guess it’s hit and miss with these lights.

UPDATE: After charging the battery and putting it back in, the new torch now doesn’t appear to work again… sigh, more debugging.

UPDATE 2: Putting another battery in, it worked again. All my batteries (two types) are protected cells. Is is possible partially discharged protected cells might work but a fully charged one wouldn’t because it trips something?

Will see if the new head fixes the problem with the original.

M

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