Funny, but I have a similar driver issue where there are two dim modes, a bright mode, and what appears to be a turbo mode. Pressing 15+ times the light goes off, then no blinks then after a period comes on in a dim mode. Took driver apart and connections looks good per picture at beginning of this thread. Contacted BG and sent two videos, described here, and they responded with a comment We are sorry for the inconvenience and I checked the video.But it is not very clear.Can you please check the modes according to this link: http://bazaar.launchpad.net/~toykeeper/flashlight-firmware/trunk/view/he... And we suggest you also check the retain ring on the tail cap and head.Make sure the switch could could working normal.
I responded that all is checked, and described the issue again suggesting they show the vids to Neal or heyanquing, and we shall see…
Something in the driver logic is not apparently triggering or the firmware is corrupted.
I have two of these lights that work fine….for the price (now $19) they work amazingly…My hat is off to the designers
Update: They sent a new driver..apparently it takes a bit of discussion, driver installed and back to good again! The new board is apparently a bit smaller diameter and has a tab on one edge to hold it under the brass clamp ring. A little strange, but it works!
Now the driver in my BLF A6 is stuck in low mode. (wont change modes at all)
Banggood said there were going to send me a new driver, but don’t know when.
I heard when you said shipping back to China was too darned expensive !
Well, at least they are willing to send you a driver. Better luck than I had with Banggood who sent out a new Klarus Mi7 with turbo mode DOA. I FINALLY got another USA based Klarus vendor that offered a new head from their inventory.
Klarus in Europe, or where ever they are, reimbursed them.
Now that ‘s warranty service. Banggood NOT so much.
Anyone had an issue where each time you enter turbo it blinks then shuts the light off?
I don’t know what did the heat do to the driver but whenever it enters turbo it will blink once then shuts the light off.
Tapping it once will enable the turbo back but it no longer steps down until it drains the battery dry
—
“Have you forgotten about all those who called you a Bringer of Woe and hunted you like an animal?”
“Normal humans don’t go around killing people and burning towns!”
“Don’t worry. I’ll go with you! So you just follow me and no arguing, okay?”
Mine kinda did stuff like that after I made it a triple. I’m not sure about the stepping down part but high amps seems to mess with the driver. Sorry I’m not much help but at least give a bump to the thread.
I want to attempt the spring mod but these directions are not clear.
I thought at first I was just soldering a wire from one spring end to the other. After looking into it more, it appears that I’m going to have to remove and resolder the switch and one end of the wire goes on a certain switch arm.
Now I’m very confused.
Does someone have a detailed guide on how to do the spring mod?
I’ll just put this here for comment. It’s been an interesting first couple of weeks with my first BLF A6 XPL. Out of the box, it didn’t work. I noticed the head, fully tightened, didn’t even start to cover the O-ring, and it it rattled. I naively just tightened the threaded retaining ring. It only took 1/16 turn, but the rattle stopped, and it worked!
The head still wasn’t covering the O-ring on the body tube, and the retaining ring had to be tightened every time I unscrewed the head (all 3 times).
So, a few days ago, I finally loosened the retaining ring a half turn and tried to center (it was way off) the driver, and it went down a mm or so. I re-tightened the ring, and it works much better now. Now the O-ring is completely covered, so it’s probably much more waterproof.
I realize that’s a pretty minor issue, but it was frustrating, and I had a hard time getting to like this light. Another reason only enthusiasts and not the average consumer are the target market.
Got a funky driver issue hopefully somebody has had and fixed. Kind of randomly switches back to mode memory. I’ll cycle through and turn mode memory off it will work like it should for a while then all of a sudden boom mode memory. I guess I could live with it but really prefer it to always start low.
I want to attempt the spring mod but these directions are not clear.
I thought at first I was just soldering a wire from one spring end to the other. After looking into it more, it appears that I’m going to have to remove and resolder the switch and one end of the wire goes on a certain switch arm.
Now I’m very confused.
Does someone have a detailed guide on how to do the spring mod?
The spring has resistance as do the traces on the switch pcb. Your original notion of a wire from the top of the spring to the bottom is one way to do it and very commonly done. Drilling through the switch pcb to bring the wire all the way to the end of the switch that connects to the center pad will reduce the resistance slightly more. All the switch does is connect the outside trace of the switch pcb to the center pad. Don’t overthink it.
—
Three Tanna leaves to give him life, nine to give him movement. But what if he eats the whole bag?
I want to attempt the spring mod but these directions are not clear.
I thought at first I was just soldering a wire from one spring end to the other. After looking into it more, it appears that I’m going to have to remove and resolder the switch and one end of the wire goes on a certain switch arm.
Now I’m very confused.
Does someone have a detailed guide on how to do the spring mod?
Basically you need to pick one or the other. Your first thought is the easier method. Look again at the first post on here and see which one suits you but be aware conneting your switch to the spring takes some electrical knowledge.
Hey guys just got my blf a6 from BG. Seems this latest model has dual tail springs(smaller spring nested inside larger spring). would the bypass still be necessary or helpful? I’m guessing the dual springs helps with current flow. Searched thread and didnt see any mention of dual tail springs.
BTW- what you have created here is one hell of a light ,
When I put in on my shelf the Nitecore EC20 ran and hid behind the 18650’s.
Helpful yes, necessary no. It’s only really necessary in cases where there’s already high amp draw like with DD triples that will overheat the springs without this mod. I left mine stock, it gets hot enough that way as it is. If you’re wanting 4A or more then by all means do it, especially with a regulated driver like a stacked 7135 or LD-x.
—
Three Tanna leaves to give him life, nine to give him movement. But what if he eats the whole bag?
Hey guys any suggestions for the driver issue I asked about above? Post #821
Sounds like a bad mcu if it won’t hold a program setting. I don’t think any if the external components would affect that but just a guess. Probably need a new driver to fix it.
—
Three Tanna leaves to give him life, nine to give him movement. But what if he eats the whole bag?
Same as any other linear driver I think. Replace D1 with 200 ohm resistor and stack Zener on C1. To keep low voltage detection you need to change the R1/R2 voltage divider. I think it’s somewhere around 20-22k for R2.
—
Three Tanna leaves to give him life, nine to give him movement. But what if he eats the whole bag?
I made zener mod on 105c driver. I’ve got 5.6a on MT-G2 led , but after 10 seconds 7135 chips overheated and current drops down to 3.3a – this is termal throttling.
No, the FET doesn’t limit the current so there’s no heat. Current is determined by battery voltage and led Vf. At least according to the 7135 data sheets they can handle up to 2V over Vf but practically speaking it’s much less. To achieve more requires more heat sinking dedicated to the 7135’s, a lot more.
—
Three Tanna leaves to give him life, nine to give him movement. But what if he eats the whole bag?
if you want run higher currents through 7135 you need to pot the driver with a heat conducting material
also has the positive that the driver is better protected against recoil and impact
Same as any other linear driver I think. Replace D1 with 200 ohm resistor and stack Zener on C1. To keep low voltage detection you need to change the R1/R2 voltage divider. I think it’s somewhere around 20-22k for R2.
On 105c driver I made Zener mode with LVP like this way
I’ll think on BLF A6 must be like this way , Right ?
Does anyone know where I could buy a replacement switch (not switch cover) for my BLF A6/ Astrolux S1? Or if not that do you know where I can get another equivalent that would still work in the light. I allowed the internal plastic pieces to get too hot during a spring bypass. In my defense it was my first attempt at a spring bypass of any kind. Why oh why did I not practice on a pos light first. The switch works about 3/4s of the time because I only damaged on section but it is still super annoying especially since I love this light as my EDC. Any help would be truly appreciated. I have learned so much on this site, learned and acquired yet another addiction (fishing, knives and sharpeners, ecig mods, and now led flashlights)
-Joey
Does anyone know where I could buy a replacement switch (not switch cover) for my BLF A6/ Astrolux S1? Or if not that do you know where I can get another equivalent that would still work in the light. I allowed the internal plastic pieces to get too hot during a spring bypass. In my defense it was my first attempt at a spring bypass of any kind. Why oh why did I not practice on a pos light first. The switch works about 3/4s of the time because I only damaged on section but it is still super annoying especially since I love this light as my EDC. Any help would be truly appreciated. I have learned so much on this site, learned and acquired yet another addiction (fishing, knives and sharpeners, ecig mods, and now led flashlights)
-Joey
Can someone tell me why there are pin3 solder pads on the spring side of the driver???
Originally, that was going to be a solderable way to turn memory on/off. It ended up not being necessary, but it was left in in case anyone else has a use for it.
It can run several others. Pretty much any 1-channel firmware should work, though it’ll only use one channel (you choose which). Or there are a small number of 2-channel options. I’ve been enjoying Crescendo on one of mine.
Funny, but I have a similar driver issue where there are two dim modes, a bright mode, and what appears to be a turbo mode. Pressing 15+ times the light goes off, then no blinks then after a period comes on in a dim mode. Took driver apart and connections looks good per picture at beginning of this thread. Contacted BG and sent two videos, described here, and they responded with a comment
We are sorry for the inconvenience and I checked the video.But it is not very clear.Can you please check the modes according to this link: http://bazaar.launchpad.net/~toykeeper/flashlight-firmware/trunk/view/he... And we suggest you also check the retain ring on the tail cap and head.Make sure the switch could could working normal.
I responded that all is checked, and described the issue again suggesting they show the vids to Neal or heyanquing, and we shall see…
Something in the driver logic is not apparently triggering or the firmware is corrupted.
I have two of these lights that work fine….for the price (now $19) they work amazingly…My hat is off to the designers
Update: They sent a new driver..apparently it takes a bit of discussion, driver installed and back to good again! The new board is apparently a bit smaller diameter and has a tab on one edge to hold it under the brass clamp ring. A little strange, but it works!
I heard when you said shipping back to China was too darned expensive !
Well, at least they are willing to send you a driver. Better luck than I had with Banggood who sent out a new Klarus Mi7 with turbo mode DOA. I FINALLY got another USA based Klarus vendor that offered a new head from their inventory.
Klarus in Europe, or where ever they are, reimbursed them.
Now that ‘s warranty service. Banggood NOT so much.The new replacement driver arrived today from Banggood for my BLF A6, (shipping was quick) and installed the new drover and it works perfectly!
That Canadian flashlight guy & Lantern Guru -Den / DBSARlight
Anyone had an issue where each time you enter turbo it blinks then shuts the light off?
I don’t know what did the heat do to the driver but whenever it enters turbo it will blink once then shuts the light off.
Tapping it once will enable the turbo back but it no longer steps down until it drains the battery dry
“Have you forgotten about all those who called you a Bringer of Woe and hunted you like an animal?”
“Normal humans don’t go around killing people and burning towns!”
“Don’t worry. I’ll go with you! So you just follow me and no arguing, okay?”
Mine kinda did stuff like that after I made it a triple. I’m not sure about the stepping down part but high amps seems to mess with the driver. Sorry I’m not much help but at least give a bump to the thread.
Dustin
Suspect my driver defect now after one year usage.
Very dim light and unable to switch mode.
I tried plug in two 3V battery to see any different. Its bright by around 30 lm.
Guys, do u think its driver or LED defect? As I plan order new driver from BG
Sorry for my bad English (gogole transtorla)
I want to attempt the spring mod but these directions are not clear.
I thought at first I was just soldering a wire from one spring end to the other. After looking into it more, it appears that I’m going to have to remove and resolder the switch and one end of the wire goes on a certain switch arm.
Now I’m very confused.
Does someone have a detailed guide on how to do the spring mod?
I’ll just put this here for comment. It’s been an interesting first couple of weeks with my first BLF A6 XPL. Out of the box, it didn’t work. I noticed the head, fully tightened, didn’t even start to cover the O-ring, and it it rattled. I naively just tightened the threaded retaining ring. It only took 1/16 turn, but the rattle stopped, and it worked!
The head still wasn’t covering the O-ring on the body tube, and the retaining ring had to be tightened every time I unscrewed the head (all 3 times).
So, a few days ago, I finally loosened the retaining ring a half turn and tried to center (it was way off) the driver, and it went down a mm or so. I re-tightened the ring, and it works much better now. Now the O-ring is completely covered, so it’s probably much more waterproof.
I realize that’s a pretty minor issue, but it was frustrating, and I had a hard time getting to like this light. Another reason only enthusiasts and not the average consumer are the target market.
Got a funky driver issue hopefully somebody has had and fixed. Kind of randomly switches back to mode memory. I’ll cycle through and turn mode memory off it will work like it should for a while then all of a sudden boom mode memory. I guess I could live with it but really prefer it to always start low.
Prior Proper Planning Prevents Piss Poor Performance.
The spring has resistance as do the traces on the switch pcb. Your original notion of a wire from the top of the spring to the bottom is one way to do it and very commonly done. Drilling through the switch pcb to bring the wire all the way to the end of the switch that connects to the center pad will reduce the resistance slightly more. All the switch does is connect the outside trace of the switch pcb to the center pad. Don’t overthink it.
Three Tanna leaves to give him life, nine to give him movement. But what if he eats the whole bag?
Scott
The bronze alloy springs have a noticeable resistance
The steel springs have an awful resistance
Best is to bridge those and you eliminated the biggest resistance with an easy fix
[Reviews] Miboxer C4-12, C2-4k+6k, C2, C4 / Astrolux K1, MF01, MF02, S42, K01, TI3A / BLF Q8 / Kalrus G35, XT11GT / Nitefox UT20 / Niwalker BK-FA30S / Sofirn SF36, SP35 / Imalent DM21TW / Wuben I333 / Ravemen PR1200 / CL06 lantern / Xanes headlamp
[Mods] Skilhunt H03 short / Klarus XT11GT, XT12GTS / Zebralight SC50+ / Imalent DM21TW / colorful anodisation
[Sale]
Drivers: overview of sizes and types
DD+AMC based drivers Anduril or Bistro OTSM 12-24mm, S42, 24-30mm L6, Q8, MF01(S), MT03, TN42
Anduril or Bistro 8A buck driver for 20-30mm, MF01/02/04, TN40/42, Lumintop GT, MT09R
UVC and UVC+UVA drivers
programming key
Remote switch tail DD board with FET
Aux boards:
Emisar D1, D1S, D4, D4S, D18, Lumintop FW3A, Fireflies ROT66, Astrolux MF01, Tail boards like S2+
Basically you need to pick one or the other. Your first thought is the easier method. Look again at the first post on here and see which one suits you but be aware conneting your switch to the spring takes some electrical knowledge.
Dustin
Hey guys any suggestions for the driver issue I asked about above? Post #821
Prior Proper Planning Prevents Piss Poor Performance.
Hey guys just got my blf a6 from BG. Seems this latest model has dual tail springs(smaller spring nested inside larger spring). would the bypass still be necessary or helpful? I’m guessing the dual springs helps with current flow. Searched thread and didnt see any mention of dual tail springs.
BTW- what you have created here is one hell of a light , When I put in on my shelf the Nitecore EC20 ran and hid behind the 18650’s.
Helpful yes, necessary no. It’s only really necessary in cases where there’s already high amp draw like with DD triples that will overheat the springs without this mod. I left mine stock, it gets hot enough that way as it is. If you’re wanting 4A or more then by all means do it, especially with a regulated driver like a stacked 7135 or LD-x.
Three Tanna leaves to give him life, nine to give him movement. But what if he eats the whole bag?
Scott
Sounds like a bad mcu if it won’t hold a program setting. I don’t think any if the external components would affect that but just a guess. Probably need a new driver to fix it.
Three Tanna leaves to give him life, nine to give him movement. But what if he eats the whole bag?
Scott
Hi ,
I searching around for Zener Mod with BLF A6 driver , but I did not find it.Can someone help me ?
Same as any other linear driver I think. Replace D1 with 200 ohm resistor and stack Zener on C1. To keep low voltage detection you need to change the R1/R2 voltage divider. I think it’s somewhere around 20-22k for R2.
Three Tanna leaves to give him life, nine to give him movement. But what if he eats the whole bag?
Scott
I made zener mod on 105c driver. I’ve got 5.6a on MT-G2 led , but after 10 seconds 7135 chips overheated and current drops down to 3.3a – this is termal throttling.
Will I have the same problem with BLF A6 driver ?
No, the FET doesn’t limit the current so there’s no heat. Current is determined by battery voltage and led Vf. At least according to the 7135 data sheets they can handle up to 2V over Vf but practically speaking it’s much less. To achieve more requires more heat sinking dedicated to the 7135’s, a lot more.
Three Tanna leaves to give him life, nine to give him movement. But what if he eats the whole bag?
Scott
if you want run higher currents through 7135 you need to pot the driver with a heat conducting material
also has the positive that the driver is better protected against recoil and impact
another crazy way to cool the driver
http://budgetlightforum.com/node/44797
he sold this light this week and wanted only 90$ for it crazy on CPF I bet some people would have paid 300$ or more
[Reviews] Miboxer C4-12, C2-4k+6k, C2, C4 / Astrolux K1, MF01, MF02, S42, K01, TI3A / BLF Q8 / Kalrus G35, XT11GT / Nitefox UT20 / Niwalker BK-FA30S / Sofirn SF36, SP35 / Imalent DM21TW / Wuben I333 / Ravemen PR1200 / CL06 lantern / Xanes headlamp
[Mods] Skilhunt H03 short / Klarus XT11GT, XT12GTS / Zebralight SC50+ / Imalent DM21TW / colorful anodisation
[Sale]
Drivers: overview of sizes and types
DD+AMC based drivers Anduril or Bistro OTSM 12-24mm, S42, 24-30mm L6, Q8, MF01(S), MT03, TN42
Anduril or Bistro 8A buck driver for 20-30mm, MF01/02/04, TN40/42, Lumintop GT, MT09R
UVC and UVC+UVA drivers
programming key
Remote switch tail DD board with FET
Aux boards:
Emisar D1, D1S, D4, D4S, D18, Lumintop FW3A, Fireflies ROT66, Astrolux MF01, Tail boards like S2+
On 105c driver I made Zener mode with LVP like this way
I’ll think on BLF A6 must be like this way , Right ?
Can someone tell me why there are pin3 solder pads on the spring side of the driver???
EDC rotation:
FW1A, LH351D 4000k (second favorite)
FW3A, LH351D 3500k
FW3A, SST20 FD2 4000k
FW3A, Nichia 4000k sw40 r9080 (favorite light!)
FW3A, Cree XP-L Hi 5A3
Emisar D4V2, SST20 4000k
S2+, XM-L2 T6 4C
Does anyone know where I could buy a replacement switch (not switch cover) for my
BLF A6/ Astrolux S1? Or if not that do you know where I can get another equivalent that would still work in the light. I allowed the internal plastic pieces to get too hot during a spring bypass. In my defense it was my first attempt at a spring bypass of any kind. Why oh why did I not practice on a pos light first. The switch works about 3/4s of the time because I only damaged on section but it is still super annoying especially since I love this light as my EDC. Any help would be truly appreciated. I have learned so much on this site, learned and acquired yet another addiction (fishing, knives and sharpeners, ecig mods, and now led flashlights)
-Joey
premounted on board
switch
Thanks a lot SigShooter I really appreciate it
Originally, that was going to be a solderable way to turn memory on/off. It ended up not being necessary, but it was left in in case anyone else has a use for it.
Except stock firmware, are there any others we can flash driver?
₪₪₪₪ ΟΥΔΕΝ ΚΡΥΠΤΟΝ ΥΠΟ ΤΟΝ ΗΛΙΟ ₪₪₪₪
My YouTube channel
Flashlights & edc gear
K40M F16
It can run several others. Pretty much any 1-channel firmware should work, though it’ll only use one channel (you choose which). Or there are a small number of 2-channel options. I’ve been enjoying Crescendo on one of mine.
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