My A6 has been working great for years but recently it’s started acting up.
When i turn it on the beam is bright for a few seconds, than goes to a lower mode within seconds and turns off a few seconds after that.
Cycling through modes i cant tell which mode i am in except for the nigh mode. All other modes seem equal in brightness which is very low compared to what it used to be.
Any idea what it could be?
Maybe check that the retaining rings are tight. Battery tube is tight.
(When troubleshooting start with the easy thing first)
I have unscrewed and tightened them many times but it didn’t help.
Problem is gone now though. Switched to a high-current battery (Samsung Q30) and after a turning off & on the flashlight a few times it started working all of a sudden. No idea why & how.
My BLF A6 is acting weird, Its working but you have to do a Full and half a click to turn in ON,
Mode memory is OFF, and it should go to Moonlight, L…Turbo,
When I turn it on – nothing, but after another half click I get some light, .
I changed the battery, I use Sanyos, but I tried a Samsung 30Q and same story, although the Turbo gets really bright
from OFF,
Full click does nothing, no light even in the darkest room.
Another Half click will turn it ON in Low,
another half click goes to Medium, Medium2, High1,High 2… Turbo.
Even with a 30Q battery it will turn on with no light
Or maybe it is missing the Moonlight?
Does moonlight function if you cycle to it normally? If you use memory and switch it on in another level, does it work without needing to do a half press?
Actually not at all. If I cycle from Turbo to next, light just turns off.
If I cycle down or backwards with long half press, same thing, there is no visible output.
Interesting the battery check is missing too
Going down past “Moonlight” which is basicaly OFF, gives me Strobe-OFF-Bike Flasher-OFF-Turbo-OFF-Turbo. Seems like every other mode going down is just OFF, and then Turbo keeps coming back all the time,
I did some more testing with A6. So Full click gives you OFF, another Full click is OFF again,
so I can keep full clicking forever and I only get OFF.
So I thought maybe the switch is no good. so I unscrewed tail switch, and just connect the battery to the body,
I got nothing just OFF..
I disconnected the battery and connected it again, I got LOW
disconnect and connect again I got MED
…again I got MED2
…again I got High
…again I got High2
…Turbo
Battery is fully charged
So there is nothing wrong with the switch and it must be the driver. right?
Location: (469219) 2016 HO3 // I get way more privmsgs than I can respond to, so please ask in a public thread if possible, for a faster answer.
Sounds like a bad 7135 chip on the driver. It could be a fluke, or they could have swapped the part for another brand. The moon level is very sensitive to changes in the underlying hardware.
If battcheck doesn’t work though, it’s probably just a fluke, because even the cheapest 7135 chips should be able to do that.
Sounds like a bad 7135 chip on the driver. It could be a fluke, or they could have swapped the part for another brand. The moon level is very sensitive to changes in the underlying hardware.
If battcheck doesn’t work though, it’s probably just a fluke, because even the cheapest 7135 chips should be able to do that.
Thank you Toykeeper for bringing some light to it, although I am embarrassed because I can’t figure out what fluke are you referring to.
I am a little bit familiar with the Fluke brand.
I think that’s all I could associate with the term fluke. Sorry
Fully charged Panasonic
Maybe check that the retaining rings are tight. Battery tube is tight.
(When troubleshooting start with the easy thing first)
I have unscrewed and tightened them many times but it didn’t help.
Problem is gone now though. Switched to a high-current battery (Samsung Q30) and after a turning off & on the flashlight a few times it started working all of a sudden. No idea why & how.
My BLF A6 is acting weird, Its working but you have to do a Full and half a click to turn in ON,
Mode memory is OFF, and it should go to Moonlight, L…Turbo,
When I turn it on – nothing, but after another half click I get some light, .
I changed the battery, I use Sanyos, but I tried a Samsung 30Q and same story, although the Turbo gets really bright
from OFF,
Full click does nothing, no light even in the darkest room.
Another Half click will turn it ON in Low,
another half click goes to Medium, Medium2, High1,High 2… Turbo.
Even with a 30Q battery it will turn on with no light
Or maybe it is missing the Moonlight?
My reviews:
Thorfire C8s , Thorfire VG-10 , Sipik SK68 , Duracell 350 , Big L@rry , Mystery AAA
Does moonlight function if you cycle to it normally? If you use memory and switch it on in another level, does it work without needing to do a half press?
Piercing The Darkness YouTube channel – https://www.youtube.com/c/PiercingTheDarkness
Actually not at all. If I cycle from Turbo to next, light just turns off.
If I cycle down or backwards with long half press, same thing, there is no visible output.
Interesting the battery check is missing too
Going down past “Moonlight” which is basicaly OFF, gives me Strobe-OFF-Bike Flasher-OFF-Turbo-OFF-Turbo. Seems like every other mode going down is just OFF, and then Turbo keeps coming back all the time,
I have to figure out how to turn memory on
My reviews:
Thorfire C8s , Thorfire VG-10 , Sipik SK68 , Duracell 350 , Big L@rry , Mystery AAA
I did some more testing with A6. So Full click gives you OFF, another Full click is OFF again,
so I can keep full clicking forever and I only get OFF.
So I thought maybe the switch is no good. so I unscrewed tail switch, and just connect the battery to the body,
I got nothing just OFF..
I disconnected the battery and connected it again, I got LOW
disconnect and connect again I got MED
…again I got MED2
…again I got High
…again I got High2
…Turbo
Battery is fully charged
So there is nothing wrong with the switch and it must be the driver. right?
My reviews:
Thorfire C8s , Thorfire VG-10 , Sipik SK68 , Duracell 350 , Big L@rry , Mystery AAA
Sounds like a bad 7135 chip on the driver. It could be a fluke, or they could have swapped the part for another brand. The moon level is very sensitive to changes in the underlying hardware.
If battcheck doesn’t work though, it’s probably just a fluke, because even the cheapest 7135 chips should be able to do that.
Post #1000!
(at the moment.)
How to Post Images on BLF // Many knives for sale (USA only)
How to move a thread // raccoon's light reviews
If you know how to solder in a new driver they’re on Banggood.com
Piercing The Darkness YouTube channel – https://www.youtube.com/c/PiercingTheDarkness
Thank you Toykeeper for bringing some light to it, although I am embarrassed because I can’t figure out what fluke are you referring to.
I am a little bit familiar with the Fluke brand.
I think that’s all I could associate with the term fluke. Sorry
My reviews:
Thorfire C8s , Thorfire VG-10 , Sipik SK68 , Duracell 350 , Big L@rry , Mystery AAA
fluke:
an unlikely chance occurrence, especially a surprising piece of luck.
How to Post Images on BLF // Many knives for sale (USA only)
How to move a thread // raccoon's light reviews
Thanks, racoon city, so basically I won the lottery?
My reviews:
Thorfire C8s , Thorfire VG-10 , Sipik SK68 , Duracell 350 , Big L@rry , Mystery AAA
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