My “hope” is that with those, I should be able to program the MCUs on maybe some NANJG 105C/D drivers and maybe do some source-code tweaking. I used to do firmware program (8080/6800/6501/8051) many, many years ago, so was wondering what else I’d need to do that?
If I continue, I’d probably want to get an ICE, and it seems like there are several available, so was looking for recommendations?
Don’t use hardware debugging, I just twiddle bits and keep hitting the recompile button . Check out the Atmel Dragon for perhaps a cheaper solution to ICE? The Dragon does parallel HV programming that will unbrick/rescue a device from accidentally burning the RST fuse setting (when using LV programming) .
How far have you gotten? Also, what development software are you planning to use or are using? Do you have a thread on what you’re doing? Link?
The initial pieces (the USB board and the clip) look like they won’t arrive until next week some time (weird. I ordered the board specifically from a VA location since I figured that I’m in VA so it’d be fast, but doesn’t seem like it), so I’m trying to prepare ahead if I can.
I am exactly at your level of ordering the hardware off of the ’Bay…
I am exploring the software side of things, but there is this ONE that I have downloaded, but have to wait to have my hardware hooked up… I do not even know if it will work for what I need. I like the learning process, but it can be frustrating.
I have been hitting ToyKeeper’s firmware repository here on BLF, but still sorting it all out. Haven’t even begun to ask anyone here questions yet…
I may make a thread after I see if this will be successful for me, but as of now, just using this one…
My preparation is only some reading and waiting to get all the stuff in. When it all gets here, if history holds true, I will get busy as all get out in everything but this…. just always seems to work that way, so I roll with it…
Funny thing is that that (the clip) is one of the things that was kind of holding me back from getting into this. I remember seeing threads where people had all kinds of problems with clips (don’t fit, work for awhile then don’t contact, etc.).
Like I said, now that I’ve ordered, i guess I’ll know soon, but if anyone else has more experience, please post!!
I have a couple of different clips coming in. One of the Pomonas and another one. I’ll post what I find when they get here cuz it’s hard to tell from the pics.
Well, I got a clip, and the clip part looks ok, but the pins that connect to the programmer are spaced too close together, so I can’t get the jumper cable wires plugged in.
AARGH!
Can someone who has a working setup point me to the specific clip and wiring exactly, so I don’t have to keep buying different ones to get something working?
For now, I’m going to see if I can solder wires directly to the clip, but they are REALLY tightly spaced so I don’t know…
That clip appears to have 1.27mm pin spacing on the top pins. The cable is for 2.54mm.
You can probably fit it if you bend every other pin out. One pin left alone / straight up, the next pin bent 45 or 90 degrees and so on. Any one pin and the pin next to it would form a V or L viewed from the side.
Do you have any small heat shrink tubing? You can also remove the plastic shroud from the jumper cable pins and use heat shrink instead. Then they fit in smaller spaces. But I’d just bend the pins out.
Check that the clip contacts is really touching the pins. Sometimes the contacts inside the clip need to be adjusted / bent to make contact. People have complained that even expensive Pomona or 3M clips can have problems.
Double check that your wiring from the clip to the programmer is correct.
You can ignore the “warning: cannot set sck period”. Most usbasp come with older firmware but it’s not really necessary to update it.
Plus you’d need a 2nd programmer to program your programmer. Yo dawg i heard you like programmers!
Basically, I had to solder the jumpers to the 4 pins on the top side of the clip, but I was able to use the jumpers as-is for the bottom side 2-pins, the RST and GND.
. Check out the Atmel Dragon for perhaps a cheaper solution to ICE? The Dragon does parallel HV programming that will unbrick/rescue a device from accidentally burning the RST fuse setting (when using LV programming) .
