DC-Fix Diffusion Film Sale

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Boaz
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Yes I still have Dc-fix available . I also have about a dozen 3”×5” sheets of heavier thickness diffusion material as well.

Splott ,,,, I’ll send you a PM

*edit 6/20/16

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       Dc-fix diffuser film  >…  http://budgetlightforum.com/node/42208

Mr.Big
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Got my diffusing film today, works wonders on a thrunite Ti Hi and some lumintop tools that have been in my edc rotation.

Splott-Light
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Hi Boaz,

P.M. and PP sent, Many Thanks.

So what is this thicker diffusion material?

Cheers,
Splott-Light Smile

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Hi Boaz,

Do you still have any diffusion film available?

Thanks,

Boaz
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Sure …Ask me before i go on vacation .. Innocent

Yes I still have a bunch if anyone is interested ..

PM sent

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       Dc-fix diffuser film  >…  http://budgetlightforum.com/node/42208

EasyB
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I am interested in this to smooth out the hotspot and reduce the donut hole on my dedomed XHP70 in supfire L6 (smooth C8 sized reflector). But I want to keep as much hotspot intensity as possible. I have seen tests where the overall light transmission is tested, but I haven’t seen any measurements of the hotspot intensity before and after. Does anyone have this information?

I have tried the “magic” scotch tape and it makes a nice beam, loses about 10% of the output, but it reduces the hotspot intensity by almost 60%. Basically I am looking for something to diffuse just enough to get rid of most of the donut hole, but keep ~80% of the hotspot intensity.

jacktheclipper
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@ EasyB

A light sputtering on the reflector would probably work better than DC-Fix .

The DC-Fix would virtually eliminate the hotspot .

What I do

 

DavidEF
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jacktheclipper wrote:
@ EasyB

A light sputtering on the reflector would probably work better than DC-Fix .

The DC-Fix would virtually eliminate the hotspot .


Not only that, but you may be missing the fact that the hot spot and the donut hole are practically the same thing. The only way to get rid of the donut hole is to diffuse the hot spot. The intense brightness of the hotter parts of the beam must be spread out in order to cover the shadow area, which you refer to as the donut hole.

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EasyB
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DavidEF wrote:
jacktheclipper wrote:
@ EasyB

A light sputtering on the reflector would probably work better than DC-Fix .

The DC-Fix would virtually eliminate the hotspot .


Not only that, but you may be missing the fact that the hot spot and the donut hole are practically the same thing. The only way to get rid of the donut hole is to diffuse the hot spot. The intense brightness of the hotter parts of the beam must be spread out in order to cover the shadow area, which you refer to as the donut hole.

I realize the intensity must go down in order to even out the beam, but it is possible to even the beam to an acceptable level and not reduce the intensity to 30 or 40%. For example, I am experimenting with SMO and OP reflectors for a XHP50, and the OP reflector virtually eliminated the donut hole and only reduced the intensity to ~82% of that of the SMO reflector.
Boaz
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for what it costs I’d say try it.you have nothiong to lose Silly I have experimented with dots of dc-fix in the center of the lens on tank 566 lights that had really bad ringy issues.It cleared up lots of issues without killing throw but i have no hard data for you .

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       Dc-fix diffuser film  >…  http://budgetlightforum.com/node/42208

jacktheclipper
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EasyB wrote:
DavidEF wrote:
jacktheclipper wrote:
@ EasyB

A light sputtering on the reflector would probably work better than DC-Fix .

The DC-Fix would virtually eliminate the hotspot .


Not only that, but you may be missing the fact that the hot spot and the donut hole are practically the same thing. The only way to get rid of the donut hole is to diffuse the hot spot. The intense brightness of the hotter parts of the beam must be spread out in order to cover the shadow area, which you refer to as the donut hole.

I realize the intensity must go down in order to even out the beam, but it is possible to even the beam to an acceptable level and not reduce the intensity to 30 or 40%. For example, I am experimenting with SMO and OP reflectors for a XHP50, and the OP reflector virtually eliminated the donut hole and only reduced the intensity to ~82% of that of the SMO reflector.

Hence my suggestion of a light spray of poly on the reflector . It gives a light OP finish , less than a stock OP reflector .
It is irreversible , however .

The more you actually use your flashlights , the less important pure output becomes and the more important tint and beam profile become .

What I do

 

EasyB
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jacktheclipper wrote:
EasyB wrote:
DavidEF wrote:
jacktheclipper wrote:
@ EasyB

A light sputtering on the reflector would probably work better than DC-Fix .

The DC-Fix would virtually eliminate the hotspot .


Not only that, but you may be missing the fact that the hot spot and the donut hole are practically the same thing. The only way to get rid of the donut hole is to diffuse the hot spot. The intense brightness of the hotter parts of the beam must be spread out in order to cover the shadow area, which you refer to as the donut hole.

I realize the intensity must go down in order to even out the beam, but it is possible to even the beam to an acceptable level and not reduce the intensity to 30 or 40%. For example, I am experimenting with SMO and OP reflectors for a XHP50, and the OP reflector virtually eliminated the donut hole and only reduced the intensity to ~82% of that of the SMO reflector.

Hence my suggestion of a light spray of poly on the reflector . It gives a light OP finish , less than a stock OP reflector .
It is irreversible , however .

The more you actually use your flashlights , the less important pure output becomes and the more important tint and beam profile become .

Yes, thank you. I tried the recommended Krylon clear acrylic gloss spray on the lens and it helped. Unfortunately I sort of killed the emitter of the light in question, but I think this method will allow me to get the right amount of diffusion for future builds.

stevens02
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Hi, I was wondering if you still have some DC-Fix left? I’d like to try some on my C8. I tried diffusing it with plain printer paper over the lens; it works fine, just the fact that the output is decimated… Smile

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I have tried matte sheet from an old LCD screen, it had 2 kinds in it: slightly matte and very matte.
Works as expected, but eats Lumens.
It’s probably because there’s space between film and lens.
So i’m interested too, but i’m in Europe so shipping costs might ruin the idea of buying from Boaz.
But maybe you could send a couple of post card sized pieces in a normal envelope?

Anyway, PM sent.

J.

Boaz
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no problem …it’s simple to ship and I still have a bunch left to send out to anyone interested …PM sent . Thanks /

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       Dc-fix diffuser film  >…  http://budgetlightforum.com/node/42208

DavidEF
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EasyB wrote:
jacktheclipper wrote:
EasyB wrote:
DavidEF wrote:
jacktheclipper wrote:
@ EasyB

A light sputtering on the reflector would probably work better than DC-Fix .

The DC-Fix would virtually eliminate the hotspot .


Not only that, but you may be missing the fact that the hot spot and the donut hole are practically the same thing. The only way to get rid of the donut hole is to diffuse the hot spot. The intense brightness of the hotter parts of the beam must be spread out in order to cover the shadow area, which you refer to as the donut hole.

I realize the intensity must go down in order to even out the beam, but it is possible to even the beam to an acceptable level and not reduce the intensity to 30 or 40%. For example, I am experimenting with SMO and OP reflectors for a XHP50, and the OP reflector virtually eliminated the donut hole and only reduced the intensity to ~82% of that of the SMO reflector.

Hence my suggestion of a light spray of poly on the reflector . It gives a light OP finish , less than a stock OP reflector .
It is irreversible , however .

The more you actually use your flashlights , the less important pure output becomes and the more important tint and beam profile become .

Yes, thank you. I tried the recommended Krylon clear acrylic gloss spray on the lens and it helped. Unfortunately I sort of killed the emitter of the light in question, but I think this method will allow me to get the right amount of diffusion for future builds.


Just to clarify: the advice is to spray clear coat on a reflector, not on a lens. The clear coat will make the reflector scatter the light a little more so that the beam is more even. For a lens, it’s probably better to use a high quality diffusion film like DC Fix. Another way to remove some of the Donut hole is to move the reflector just a bit out of focus. But, that will also reduce throw, possibly quite significantly.

The Cycle of Goodness: “No one prospers without rendering benefit to others”
- The YKK Philosophy

EasyB
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DavidEF wrote:
Just to clarify: the advice is to spray clear coat on a reflector, not on a lens. The clear coat will make the reflector scatter the light a little more so that the beam is more even. For a lens, it’s probably better to use a high quality diffusion film like DC Fix. Another way to remove some of the Donut hole is to move the reflector just a bit out of focus. But, that will also reduce throw, possibly quite significantly.

Clear coat seems to work in a similar way on the lens. The sole reason I was recommended clear coat was because it will diffuse less than DC fix.

I’ve found the main effect of defocusing the reflector is a smaller hotspot with larger corona.

DavidEF
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EasyB wrote:
DavidEF wrote:
Just to clarify: the advice is to spray clear coat on a reflector, not on a lens. The clear coat will make the reflector scatter the light a little more so that the beam is more even. For a lens, it’s probably better to use a high quality diffusion film like DC Fix. Another way to remove some of the Donut hole is to move the reflector just a bit out of focus. But, that will also reduce throw, possibly quite significantly.

Clear coat seems to work in a similar way on the lens. The sole reason I was recommended clear coat was because it will diffuse less than DC fix.

I’ve found the main effect of defocusing the reflector is a smaller hotspot with larger corona.


Well, since you’ve done it, I’ll take your word for it. I would have thought it would make the lens ugly and probably the beam too. Sick

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jacktheclipper
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Before DC-Fix , some people used Glad Press-and-Seal plastic wrap .

In my experience , DC-Fix eats more lumens to the eye than it is reputed to do .

It can really affect throw , in some cases virtually eliminate it .

I only use it for really ringy or artifact laden beams or headlamps or flashlights intended for close-up use .

What I do

 

Jerommel
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DavidEF wrote:
EasyB wrote:
DavidEF wrote:
Just to clarify: the advice is to spray clear coat on a reflector, not on a lens. The clear coat will make the reflector scatter the light a little more so that the beam is more even. For a lens, it’s probably better to use a high quality diffusion film like DC Fix. Another way to remove some of the Donut hole is to move the reflector just a bit out of focus. But, that will also reduce throw, possibly quite significantly.

Clear coat seems to work in a similar way on the lens. The sole reason I was recommended clear coat was because it will diffuse less than DC fix.

I’ve found the main effect of defocusing the reflector is a smaller hotspot with larger corona.


Well, since you’ve done it, I’ll take your word for it. I would have thought it would make the lens ugly and probably the beam too. Sick
You can remove it from a lens but not from a reflector.

None the less, good idea to use clear coat.
When you let it ‘rain down’ from some distance it will cause orange peel effect.
Maybe matte clear coat is good too. (?)

Thanks for your PM, Boaz.

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Thanks Boaz! PM’d and PP’d. Now I just need to wait for its arrival… Big Smile

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I use dc-fix on my throwers, it does not destroy throw, just turns them into normal lights with a good mix of throw and spill. I don’t like throwers. Put it on a normal light, Zebralight SC5 say, and it would indeed kill the throw totally, not a good idea. I bought some from the US via CPF, and I am in the UK. It was probably the same person as the OP. I still have plenty left.

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Aloha Boaz,

If you still have some sheets available, I’ll like to purchase 4. PM me and I’ll PP you.

Mahalo

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Boaz
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Aloha Mkduffer PM sent …Dc-fix sent today .

EasyB Like I said I think you should try a small dot of diffusion film right in the center of your lens . Try maybe a few different size dots starting with like a paper punch size up to a dime .I was pretty impressed how nicely it made some really bad beams and still kept the hot spot for throw . This sounds like what you’re trying to achieve .

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       Dc-fix diffuser film  >…  http://budgetlightforum.com/node/42208

Mkduffer
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Thanks Boaz!

Sorry, got it about a week ago, but been too busy to mention it. This stuff works a lot better than the things I’ve tried before. I like the way the film helps smooth out the hot spots for my close task and walking around EDC light.

I tried the dot in the center, but my experience was that there was still a lot of light coming from the reflector so I still had a noticeable hot spot until I covered the whole lens. I’m sure that varies from light to light, but thanks for the suggestion and the film.

Mahalo!

People say I’m a flashaholic like it’s a bad thing…

stevens02
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Hmmm… Mine still hasn’t arrived yet… ??

Boaz
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WOW !!!

I am not subscribed to this or any thread but make a conscious effort to check this thread pretty often . This has happened before and I’m starting think in some cases it’s other family members opening mail and not realizing what DC-fix looks like . It can look like there is nothing in the envelope at all . Recently I have started writing DC-fix on the back of the sheets just to avoid this issue. But I think in the future I’ll add some odd shaped samples of other diffuser material i have over here and wrap it all up in a letter thanking people and explaining what it is for the moms / wives who like opening mail and tossing stuff out . I could write “important flashlight material enclosed “…..but in some homes that might be reason for a divorce . private message me StevenS with your address again so i can double check it ….and I’ll send you some more DC-FIX.

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       Dc-fix diffuser film  >…  http://budgetlightforum.com/node/42208

StandardBattery
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This is great stuff, saved one expensive light for me and made a couple others really nice for task lighting. I’d like to try it on a few more but i seemed to have misplaced my envelope. I wonder if at some point i thought it was empty and through it out. I may need to buy more. It’s great to see it’s still available.

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It’s alright. I’ll wait some more… Thumbs Up

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What kind of lights have you been using d-c-fix on? I read it cannot withstand high temperatures.

Quote:

WHAT TEMPERATURES CAN D-C-FIX® WITHSTAND?
d-c-fix® can comfortably withstand temperatures between -10°C and +50°C

IS D-C-FIX® HEAT RESISTANT?
d-c-fix® is heat resistant up to 75°C for short periods of time

Here’s Olight R50 Pro near a wooden surface on turbo for under 1 minute.

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