BLF ReyLight Titanium Flashlight 3*Nichia

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ReyLight
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MCT wrote:
Please PM me and let me know if these options are still available:

Option #3
- Ice Blue/Red/Blue trits
- Red in tail cap

Total cost to deliver to 93737 (California) and expected delivery time.

Thanks – MCT


PMed.
mattlward
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Mine made it in today! Not a triple, but still from Rey!

Ti Tool

Found thru hole clips for them at a reasonable price as well!

Preon clip 3 bux!

EDC rotation:
FW1A, LH351D 4000k (second favorite)
FW3A, LH351D 3500k
FW3A, SST20 FD2 4000k
FW3A, Nichia 4000k sw40 r9080 (favorite light!)
FW3A, Cree XP-L Hi 5A3
Emisar D4V2, SST20 4000k

somnambulism
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WWEFANS wrote:
Driver: 17mm BLF DD + theStar Firmware

Is that driver the one from this thread you linked ? The linked driver doesn’t look like it has the solderable stars called for in the firmware you used.

I got my triple from you and it’s very nice, but I want a moonlight mode and I’d like to confirm that the driver supports one before I start taking it apart.

mattlward wrote:
Found thru hole clips for them at a reasonable price as well!

Preon clip 3 bux!

Does that clip fit on the Tool? That looks like an “old-style” Preon clip, one that according to this discussion*New*-Lumintop-Titanium-Tool&p=4853372&viewfull=1#post4853372 doesn’t actually fit.

ReyLight
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somnambulism wrote:
WWEFANS wrote:
Driver: 17mm BLF DD + theStar Firmware

Is that driver the one from this thread you linked ? The linked driver doesn’t look like it has the solderable stars called for in the firmware you used.

I got my triple from you and it’s very nice, but I want a moonlight mode and I’d like to confirm that the driver supports one before I start taking it apart.

mattlward wrote:
Found thru hole clips for them at a reasonable price as well!

Preon clip 3 bux!

Does that clip fit on the Tool? That looks like an “old-style” Preon clip, one that according to this discussion*New*-Lumintop-Titanium-Tool&p=4853372&viewfull=1#post4853372 doesn’t actually fit.

It is 18650 flashlight clip, won’t fit any tool ti AAA.
Here is how to operate the driver, the moon mode is hidden, but it’s not low enough.

mattlward
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Nope Rey, it does not fit. I would almost kill for about 3 clips that would fit. I do not carry the Ti’s or the coppers out of the house after my copper popped a clip and it sat in the yard for a week. Had to travel to get my metal detector to find it.

EDC rotation:
FW1A, LH351D 4000k (second favorite)
FW3A, LH351D 3500k
FW3A, SST20 FD2 4000k
FW3A, Nichia 4000k sw40 r9080 (favorite light!)
FW3A, Cree XP-L Hi 5A3
Emisar D4V2, SST20 4000k

somnambulism
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WWEFANS wrote:
Here is how to operate the driver, the moon mode is hidden, but it’s not low enough.

Thanks. Looks like the mode memory even supports starting from a hidden mode. Unfortunately there’s an extremely bright pre-flash if you start in the hidden moonlight mode, which defeats a lot of the purpose. Guess I may end up changing the driver…

redinzane
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After using it for a few weeks, I have encountered some issues with the light, can anyone help me with these?

  • Sometimes the light does not turn off. Turning it on sets it to turbosometimes, to low other times, half clicks do nothing and turning it off switsches to some kind of moonlight (actually less bright than the hidden moonlight) but does not actually turn the light off. No idea what causes this.
  • Shaking and small bumps switch modes…
  • The light actually turns off when tailstanding/facing the sky.
  • The light won’t even turn on with a Samsung 30Q, I’m assuming because it’s too short. It will turn on with a Sony VTC5 but black residue on the spring suggests arcing… Those two differ by about a millimetre max.

I guess one remedy might be to screw the part holding the spring further into the tube, but I have no tools for that and it likely won’t fix most of these issues. Anyone got any ideas?

maukka
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redinzane wrote:
* The light won’t even turn on with a Samsung 30Q, I’m assuming because it’s too short. It will turn on with a Sony VTC5 but black residue on the spring suggests arcing… Those two differ by about a millimetre max.

I’m using a button magnet with a 30Q.

ReyLight
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redinzane wrote:
After using it for a few weeks, I have encountered some issues with the light, can anyone help me with these?
  • Sometimes the light does not turn off. Turning it on sets it to turbosometimes, to low other times, half clicks do nothing and turning it off switsches to some kind of moonlight (actually less bright than the hidden moonlight) but does not actually turn the light off. No idea what causes this.
  • Shaking and small bumps switch modes…
  • The light actually turns off when tailstanding/facing the sky.
  • The light won’t even turn on with a Samsung 30Q, I’m assuming because it’s too short. It will turn on with a Sony VTC5 but black residue on the spring suggests arcing… Those two differ by about a millimetre max.

I guess one remedy might be to screw the part holding the spring further into the tube, but I have no tools for that and it likely won’t fix most of these issues. Anyone got any ideas?

Please use tweezers to screw the brass retainer outside a bit, and then screw the steel retainer into the tail. So the button will go deeper and won’t have any problem in tailstanding.

Firelight2
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I have a Reylight Ti Triple host that I installed triple XPL HI in.

Great looking and feeling host.

Only problem with it is the switch. The threads on the switch mechansim were too small. I’d screw in the switch, then screw in the retaining ring. And the retaining ring would literally cause the switch mechanism to skip out of its threads without tightening.

I solved the problem by sticking some copper solder braid in the threads between the switch mechanism and the body tube.

Other than that, great host!

somnambulism
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WWEFANS wrote:
Please use tweezers to screw the brass retainer outside a bit, and then screw the steel retainer into the tail. So the button will go deeper and won’t have any problem in tailstanding.

Thanks for this tip, worked like a charm.
ReyLight
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Glad to hear that.

redinzane
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WWEFANS wrote:

Please use tweezers to screw the brass retainer outside a bit, and then screw the steel retainer into the tail. So the button will go deeper and won’t have any problem in tailstanding.

Unfortunately, I have no suitable tools on hand (none of my tweezers get a good enough grip). I’ll see if I can borrow some specialized tools somewhere.

Though one problem does remain: Any ideo on why the light would randomly turn on (and stay on) even when switched off? When this happens, I can’t even switch modes, turning it on just makes it slightly brighter… I don’t think itis caused by the switch not being screwed in as tight as possible as even when using a small conductor between battery and spring to secure it, it still happens. Is the switch or driver damaged? Am I doing something wrong?

redinzane
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So I screwed the switch deeper into the tube and it now works while tailstanding (and with Samsung batteries) but it still has that issue where it always stays on and only gets a little brighter when actually switched on. It has gotten more common and now makes it impossible to use the light because it starts lighting up as soon as it’s put together and switching modes is impossible (brightness is always the same when switched on). After a while then, the light turns off and cannot be switched on again for a while…

Anyone got any idea what causes this?

djozz
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redinzane wrote:
So I screwed the switch deeper into the tube and it now works while tailstanding (and with Samsung batteries) but it still has that issue where it always stays on and only gets a little brighter when actually switched on. It has gotten more common and now makes it impossible to use the light because it starts lighting up as soon as it’s put together and switching modes is impossible (brightness is always the same when switched on). After a while then, the light turns off and cannot be switched on again for a while…

Anyone got any idea what causes this?


Two possibilities, 1)the switch spring (when compressed) touches the side somewhere, so the battery-minus is bypassing the switch, you can try to look for that happening and perhaps bend/shift something to solve that, 2)internal switch problem ->replace the switch/have it replaced.
ReyLight
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@djozz, thanks for the advice.

@redinzane, have you tried this? remove the tail and bypass the battery negative pole and the flashlight body.
It will shoot the trouble. pic below:

redinzane
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WWEFANS wrote:
@djozz, thanks for the advice.

@redinzane, have you tried this? remove the tail and bypass the battery negative pole and the flashlight body.
It will shoot the trouble. pic below:


Thanks, I just did and it worked, including mode switching. Since I’m 99% sure it’s not the spring shorting it (doesn’t seem to bend that way) it must be the switch then (someone on Reddit suggested that the high current of the triple may have melted the switch).

If you still have any switches left for this light, I’m now in the market for a switch assembly.

ReyLight
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redinzane wrote:
WWEFANS wrote:
@djozz, thanks for the advice.

@redinzane, have you tried this? remove the tail and bypass the battery negative pole and the flashlight body.
It will shoot the trouble. pic below:


Thanks, I just did and it worked, including mode switching. Since I’m 99% sure it’s not the spring shorting it (doesn’t seem to bend that way) it must be the switch then (someone on Reddit suggested that the high current of the triple may have melted the switch).

If you still have any switches left for this light, I’m now in the market for a switch assembly.

Sorry I couldn’t find any, will try to get one. Please pm me your shipping address.

ToyKeeper
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FWIW, I used the switch and retaining ring from a BLF EE X6, and put a spare Convoy switch+ring into the X6. The Rey titanium light was a bit more picky about which parts it liked, but I had a part which worked so I used it.

(it helps that I have a bunch of head-only lights for testing purposes, which leaves me with extra body and tail parts)

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scheven_architect
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Anyone that owns both this light and the astrolux s41/manker14?
The light looks much longer than 11cm with the extension.

 

 
akhyar
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scheven_architect wrote:
Anyone that owns both this light and the astrolux s41/manker14? The light looks much longer than 11cm with the extension.

Photo showing without extension, as I prefer the shorter length of 18350 for EDC.
Plus the extension tube for Reylight is in storage and I never ordered the extension tube for the S41
From left is Convoy S2+, Astrolux S41, ReyLight and Sinner Ti triple

Boro
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akhyar wrote:
scheven_architect wrote:
Anyone that owns both this light and the astrolux s41/manker14? The light looks much longer than 11cm with the extension.

Photo showing without extension, as I prefer the shorter length of 18350 for EDC.
Plus the extension tube for Reylight is in storage and I never ordered the extension tube for the S41
From left is Convoy S2+, Astrolux S41, ReyLight and Sinner Ti triple

!http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v156/akhyar/image_zpsavpkhgfp.jpeg!

Great comparison photo, thanks. Have you been able to compare the S41 to the Reylight?

akhyar
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^ copy and paste my post on Astrolux S41.

I’ve had the E14/S41 for about 2 months already but I have never compared the tint with my other Nichias, and with some users reported that their E14 have greenish tint instead of the pinkish rose tinted associated with the Nichias, I decided that I need to find out on my own.
With the missus and the kid at the in-laws place, I finally managed to do a quick tint comparison with some of my small lights.
Might be useful for some tint snobs out there, especially for white wall hunting.

From the left is Convoy S2+ with XML2 U2-1A at 6.5K-7K as control, followed by Sinner triple Nichia 219B @4700K, the S41 with quad 219B at 5K and finally ReyLight triple 219C at 5K.
I’ve tried to match the brightness as closed as possible since the lights are using different drivers, and in the case of the S2+, it is a single emitter.

To my naked eyes, although it is not captured in the photo above taken by iPhone 5S, the S41 has the not so pleasing greenish tint that some users mentioned regarding their E14/S41.
While the greenish tint is not as ugly or as obvious as the Olight M2X-UT or M3X-UT Javelot using the dedomed XML2 led, it is noticeable if compared side by side with the Nichias family.

My Sinner 219B has the lovely pinkish rose tinted associated with the Nichias, while the ReyLight 219C is a bit yellowish, but still has that some rose tinted, albeit not as obvious as the 219B.

Finally, group shot showing their optics, which may or may not be useful at all.

One thing that I wish to change on the stock ReyLight is the driver.
By default, it has 3 modes and the lowest mode is still very bright.
The moonlight mode is hidden, and it will always start with a bright pre-flash, which defeat the purpose of moonlight mode.

So if a true moonlight mode is a must, the S41/E14 is the better option.
I’ve tried to replace the driver in my ReyLight with Bistro driver, but I couldn’t unscrew the pill inside the head

scheven_architect
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Thank you akhyar.
I think for now I won’t buy either.
Hidden moon is quite stupid with the flash and the tint of the S41 isn’t what i would want it to be.
Tint would be very important as this light would be my main EDC.

Is the reylight much brighter on turbo?

 

 
ToyKeeper
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The Reylight is very nice, but likely requires some small modifications to get it to its ideal state. I’ve been treating it like an empty host, because it’s a very nice host. Then I gave it my favorite driver and carefully adjusted the parts which make the switch, and I put a triple 219B in it. It turned out very well.

The S41 should be a little brighter on turbo, assuming the same type of LEDs, because there are four instead of three. It should also manage the heat significantly better because it has a big chunk of copper instead of titanium. However, the S41 also lacks a clip and has unfortunate spacing on my most-used modes and it’s green. I find I don’t really use my S41, while I use my Reylight constantly.

The only light I use more than the Reylight is my Olight S1 Ti, and that’s mostly just because it’s quite a bit smaller so it’s more convenient to carry.

The Sinner 18350 Ti also is very tempting but I don’t have one. I have a Sinner 18650 in copper with triple XP-L HI, and it’s my brightest single-cell light, so I haven’t tried to get any other Sinner lights. But the 18350 Ti is still tempting regardless. And if I didn’t mind dropping a grand on a flashlight, Sinner’s mokune-gane 18350 lights are works of art.

james y
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Hi,
I am just wondering if we can use 2 batteries on this light? Say, for example using 2 × 18350?

akhyar
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james y wrote:
Hi, I am just wondering if we can use 2 batteries on this light? Say, for example using 2 × 18350?

Even if the driver allows it, i.e. can support maybe up to 9V, which I have no idea if it will, I don’t see any advantage of using 2× 18350 over a single 18650.

ToyKeeper
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james y wrote:
I am just wondering if we can use 2 batteries on this light? Say, for example using 2 × 18350?

Nope. Not unless you replace the driver and possibly also the emitter. And even then, I doubt it would work because 2×18350 is significantly longer than 1×18650 — 70mm+ versus 65mm+, and there isn’t a lot of spare room inside.
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Is there a way to remove the UV glue so that I can replace the trits?

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