[MOD] Courui D01 build for MauiSon

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FmC
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[MOD] Courui D01 build for MauiSon

 I recently had my 1000th post giveaway, which was aimed at members that were new to the community and/or did not have the tools/ability to mod a light.

 The winner was to send me a light of their choice, & I would perform the mods they wanted, make a build log, then forward it on to them.

 The winner was MauiSon, who chose to send me a Courui D01 for a work-over. The draw was back in July, & some of you may be wondering why I'm only just posting the build thread now.... let's just say that the light was originally ordered from Ge@r Be$t.

 Cut to several months later, with the PP claim behind him, MauiSon's light arrived quickly, after ordering from KD. He had also sent a 32mm Noctigon & an XPL HI V3 2B from IOS, which had been gathering dust, awaiting the D01's arrival.

 I've done a few D01's, & have evolved the process into what I believe to be a pretty solid light. Of course, this build is similar to my other D01 thread, but, hey, it's the same light Smile

  For MauiSon's build, I incorporated a couple of new ideas, & also used the ATTiny 85v, coupled with TomE's awesome user-configurable firmware.

 Here's the light stripped down. This one is a reasonably good example, with just a few minor imperfections.

I started on the body mods first;

 A hole is drilled & tapped in the thickest section of the driver cavity, which enables a dedicated ground lead to be attached to the driver. This overcomes any potential grounding issues with the standard press-in driver/contact plate arrangement.

Moving to the back of the light, I removed the anodizing where the switch plate via contacts the body - not really necessary, but an easy step to do. As a lockout switch will be added to this light, a 13.5mm hole is drilled through the tailcap to accommodate the switch boot.

With the body prepped, I moved onto the rear contact board.

 Each spring was bypassed directly to the switch leg with 22awg silicone wire, leaving the original via's intact as a backup. The KAN28 switch is soldered to the original traces, as well as being secured by silicone rubber adhesive. The three ground points are also beefed up with 22awg wire from the switch leg to the grounding screws.

 

 Moving onto the front board, the components were removed, & it was prepped to accept a piggy-backed Wight Fet+1 driver.

The Batt + is taken through the board from the battery side, using the existing via, & then the Ground lead is attached to the body with a machine screw. The end of the Ground lead has a small Nangj spring cut in half & soldered to it.

The other two wires are to act as a support to keep the driver in place, as well as providing additional grounding. All wires here are 18awg.

 The Wight Fet+1 driver was assembled & tested, prior to attaching to the contact board. The 22awg LED+ wire is also attached the base of the driver, then silicone rubber adhesive is applied, & the driver is flipped over, & the silicone is allowed to set.

 On top, the LED- wire is attached to the Fet drain, & the ground wire attached to the driver ground & also directly to the Fet legs. The original LED wires were trimmed & re-used for the E-switch.

 

 The trickiest work involved with this build is modifying the reflector base for wiring clearance. I use a grinding die in the drill press, & manually rotate the reflector by hand, to gradually reduce the base diameter. The picture below shows the modded reflector base, compared to a stock one.

 Doing this allows the reflector to sit flush on the 32mm Noctigon, so the LED is not shrouded by the opening, & allows clearance for the wiring connection, eliminating the chance of a short.

 I tap threads into the existing holes in the Noctigon, then mark & drill the pill, so I can attach the Noctigon with machine screws from the underside of the pill. I also drill out the wiring hole slightly larger to accommodate the bigger wires. The pill is inverted, in order to raise the LED, & utilize the flat surface.

 

 After the machine work, the XPL HI was flowed onto the board & tested.

 I then sand down an XM-XP centering ring, so it's no higher than the surface of the die, which is then attached to the board with a very small amount of 'super glue'. The outer diameter of the centering ring also needs a slight sanding to fit neatly into the reflector opening.

 Finally, all of the holes are chamfered, & both surfaces lapped, before using a thin smear of thermal compound, & fixing the Noctigon to the pill with machine screws.

 

 The pill is then screwed down tight into the body. Some D01's will run out of thread & not tighten down, necessitating the use of a locking ring, but this particular one did not require it.

 I made some copper tags for the LED connections, as I feel it's a neater solution, & helps maintain the reflector clearance, as opposed to soldering the wires directly to the board.

 The LED wires are then fed through from the underside, & soldered to the tags, clearances double checked, then kapton-taped for good measure, before assembling the head for the final time.

 The E-switch cover is then re-attached, & the driver board is pressed back into place, after double-checking the tightness of all the machine screws.

  The main threads are cleaned & lubed, & we are ready to insert some cells & fire it up!

With this combination, & using Samsung 25r's, I measured;

  • Lumens; 1616.
  • Throw; 1131 meters.

As of writing, MauiSon's D01 has landed on his soil, & should be in his hands soon!

Beer

 

 

Edited by: FmC on 11/14/2015 - 22:51
djburkes
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Looks like a lot of care and detail was put into this build. He should be proud of his light. Thanks for the modding details…excellent job.

ReManG
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Beautiful build… I hope MauiSon gets us some beam shots from the islands!

JasonJ
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Beautiful work on this. What’s the calculated candela output?

KiwiKane
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FmC great build thread! I just started my own Courui build last night after feeling unmotivated, this will definitely help with that. Great output results too! Nice.work

MRsDNF
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Nice work and creativity. Smile

 

djozz quotes, "it came with chinese lettering that is chinese to me".

                      "My man mousehole needs one too"

old4570 said "I'm not an expert , so don't suffer from any such technical restrictions".

Old-Lumens. Highly admired and cherished member of Budget Light Forum. 11.5.2011 - 20.12.16. RIP.

 

M4D M4X
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well done mod!
thanks for sharing!

MauiSon soon has a light to be proud owning it

PLEASE NOTE
i do not work in "reviews, deals and codes" for the time being
maybe M4D M4X will return one day, but until then:

THANK YOU FOR YEARS OF YOUR SUPPORT AND FRIENDLY CONTACTS!

MauiSon
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It’s been a long wait and the gray Courui I originally ordered was a victim of China Post, but I am so happy that it’s coming soon.

Does this come with an instruction sheet for the new UI?

Beam shots will be posted, when I get everything figured out here.

BanglaBob
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Wow, FmC! That’s nice Smile I’m lusting already :bigsmile:

Three questions:

  • would you be willing to build me a similar one?
  • would it approach or even better 600 kcd?
  • how much would it cost?

I’d much appreciate it if you would pm me with an answer.
Thanks

Lights out! That's when things get interesting...

FmC
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Cheers guys Beer

JasonJ wrote:
Beautiful work on this. What's the calculated candela output?

I measured at 10m, about 320Kcd.

MauiSon wrote:
It's been a long wait and the gray Courui I originally ordered was a victim of China Post, but I am so happy that it's coming soon. Does this come with an instruction sheet for the new UI? Beam shots will be posted, when I get everything figured out here.

Yes, I printed out TomE's instruction manual, & tucked it inside the tube Smile

It will be interesting to see what you think of it compared to the M24 from the group buy. Although I already know the answer Wink

BanglaBob wrote:
Wow, FmC! That's nice Smile I'm lusting already :bigsmile: Three questions: * would you be willing to build me a similar one? * would it approach or even better 600 kcd? * how much would it cost? I'd much appreciate it if you would pm me with an answer. Thanks

To get into the 600 club, you are going to need a bigger reflector. Something like this.

You could probably punch above 400 with the stock reflector, the latest bin XP-G2, de-domed, with UCL lens, but the beam is getting pretty narrow by then.

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Excellent mod. Great idea with ground wire screwed to the body. It is good to see that this flashlight is still one of the top budget and mod friendly hosts.

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Cula wrote:

Excellent mod. Great idea with ground wire screwed to the body. It is good to see that this flashlight is still one of the top budget and mod friendly hosts.

Cheers. Not quite as epic as your copper pimped D01 Smile

Hestbech
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Fantastic mod.

I envy your skills, and your knowledge Big Smile

Great inspiration for others

It would be dandy if birds pooped candy ::
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Nice! You can tell that you did this mod more than once, everything is clean and well thought-out. (everytime I finish a mod I think about how much better it would be if I'd do it again without all the mistakes and the un- and resoldering mess ).

Question: so I understand that the XP-L Hi survives direct drive on three parallel 25r's? What was the drive current?

FmC
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djozz wrote:

Nice! You can tell that you did this mod more than once, everything is clean and well thought-out. (everytime I finish a mod I think about how much better it would be if I'd do it again without all the mistakes and the un- and resoldering mess ).

Question: so I understand that the XP-L Hi survives direct drive on three parallel 25r's? What was the drive current?

Thanks.

I didn't take current draw measurements - I was hoping someone like your good self might do a torture test on the HI Smile

I couldn't imagine the current being anywhere near the 'popping point', regardless of how many cells. My charger over-charges slightly to 4.25v, but we know it's going to need higher voltage under load for the LED to draw much over the 5-5.5 Amp range.

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I over charged a Purple Efest to 4.35v and poofed a V3-2B HI! :bigsmile: But I read of V3-2B HI pulling 6amps and Living? :~

KB1428 “Live Life WOT

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Nice, excellent work! Glad to see the firmware being used. I use the firmware lock-out all the time in my lights, though the hardware lock-out, specially with the recessed tailcap boot in this D01 design is better.

thijsco19
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FmC wrote:

djozz wrote:

Nice! You can tell that you did this mod more than once, everything is clean and well thought-out. (everytime I finish a mod I think about how much better it would be if I’d do it again without all the mistakes and the un- and resoldering mess ).

Question: so I understand that the XP-L Hi survives direct drive on three parallel 25r’s? What was the drive current?

Thanks.

I didn’t take current draw measurements – I was hoping someone like your good self might do a torture test on the HI Smile

I couldn’t imagine the current being anywhere near the ‘popping point’, regardless of how many cells. My charger over-charges slightly to 4.25v, but we know it’s going to need higher voltage under load for the LED to draw much over the 5-5.5 Amp range.


Not sure about that. With a single cell, that cell has to deliver all the amps which in turn causes the voltage to sag.
But if you use multiple cells in parallel the current draw is distributed among the cells, with each particular cell delivering less current that with just one cell the voltage stays higher and thus letting more current flow.

Thats how I understand it :bigsmile:, feel free to correct me.

Wrathbringer27
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BEAMSHOOOTSSSS

Words can be broken,
so can bones.

JasonJ
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Wrathbringer27 wrote:
BEAMSHOOOTSSSS

X10000!!!!!!

FmC
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thijsco19 wrote:
With a single cell, that cell has to deliver all the amps which in turn causes the voltage to sag. But if you use multiple cells in parallel the current draw is distributed among the cells, with each particular cell delivering less current that with just one cell the voltage stays higher and thus letting more current flow.

That's right, it would be interesting to graph the difference in voltage sag between one cell & 2/3/4, etc.

We still have a starting point of ~4.2v though, & it's only going down from there.

I just measured vDroop in my other D01. Resting voltage was 4.0v, which drops straight down to 3.8v on full output.

Looking at Djozz's XP L testing,  a solid 4.2v under load should be around 7Amps, but in the light, if we are dropping around .2v, that brings us down to ~5.5Amps straight away.

Of course, that number will vary somewhat, depending on the type & charge of the cells.

djozz
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Not so long ago I did a test on one XP-L1 Hi led and the voltage was 0.2V lower than the two XP-L tests that I had done a while ago. See http://budgetlightforum.com/node/41211

(See the test thread for an explanation of the sudden dip in the Hi output)

FmC
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Thanks for the info, Djozz. I'm sure I would have read that thread when it was posted....

No wonder you asked the question. It would be good to see some graphs on the newer binned Hi's.

When I have a little free time, I think I'll do a comparison of Vdroop between 1/2/3 cells in my other D01.

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My approach was kinda different….i call it the easy mode modding:)
Yet the result is same as the OP- arround 320k cds, my tail amps are only 4.4( rining with 3× 25rs) and i used the default driver( resistor modded, it seems it has a potential), the led is V6 1A dedomed

The reflector is stock( only the emitter whole is being made bigger), the spacer used is thinned c8 one, MCPCB is Noctigons ofc

The hotspot came nearly perfect: the outher ring is from the glass( default one)

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FmC, I really like this build, and I am taking away some of your procedures and applying them to my own similar build on a Shadow JM26. Making ears or tags with the braided wire is a great idea.

I see you have your reflector flush against the Noctigon pad. Did you try other heights as well and found this to be the best focus point? The JM26 reflector is smaller than the D01, and I will need to raise the pad up slightly for the reflector to sit flush. Obviously, I will need to experiment with height, but just wondering if sitting flush on the pad will give me the best focus. Again, great job.

FmC
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WillyD wrote:
FmC, I really like this build, and I am taking away some of your procedures and applying them to my own similar build on a Shadow JM26. Making ears or tags with the braided wire is a great idea. I see you have your reflector flush against the Noctigon pad. Did you try other heights as well and found this to be the best focus point? The JM26 reflector is smaller than the D01, and I will need to raise the pad up slightly for the reflector to sit flush. Obviously, I will need to experiment with height, but just wondering if sitting flush on the pad will give me the best focus. Again, great job.

 Thanks.

 To be honest, I haven't spent a lot of time trying to fine tune the focus, it's more the case of getting the LED high enough into the opening so as it doesn't create artifacts from light hitting the side of the hole. I think some guys have sanded the reflector base thinner to get around this also.

 There's not a lot of room to move (adjustment) between getting the LED high enough, & sitting the reflector flush on the board. Short of making a focus testing rig, there's going to be a bit of trial & error measuring any slight differences in height (taking throw measurements).

 I'd say get the LED as high as you can to begin with, then gradually add thin insulating gaskets to the reflector base/board, & measure each time.

 

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Mitko wrote:
My approach was kinda different....i call it the easy mode modding:) Yet the result is same as the OP- arround 320k cds, my tail amps are only 4.4( rining with 3x 25rs) and i used the default driver( resistor modded, it seems it has a potential), the led is V6 1A dedomed !

This is good info, but you are not providing much details. Yes - a de-domed XP-L will have better throw than an XP-L HI with the tint tradeoff's (we know you like de-domed tints better anyway), so you get the same throw for less current. What Noctigon MCPCB did you use? Did you beef up the LED wires? What did you do about clearing the LED wires? What resistor did you mod to what value?

You call this "easy mode modding" but you provide so little details and specifics of the mod, I can't tell what is so easy about this? It's easy to throw numbers out there and a couple of pics after it's all done - this doesn't help us understand what you did.

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Yeah TOm , you are right
Well, since i found that Gearbest Courui D01 isnt that good i found this one

Clean reflector and glass, as english says no “ chips” on the oxidation, and most of all good default driver, same as in kinfire: with dual PWM
I used Noctigons 35mm MCPCB, V6 1D( unfortunately its price rised) and that default driver modded( resistor bridged)
Its actualy a very good driver, it survived after several reflector short connections :bigsmile: only the coil smoked for a while but its good as new- and exacly what i need, starts at max, then 700ma, then off and a hidden strobe: beauty

Nothign specialy realy, i dremeled the reflector a bit in order to avoid future short connections

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Ahh - ok. Interesting bout the AliExpress one - didn't realize the GB ones were not that good. For the driver, it's all about if you want stock driver capabilities and UI. If the stock one can support high amps, that's great, but I'd prefer a better UI and the advanced features.