Correcting tint with LEE Filters

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jon_slider
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I bought the swatch book

.

maybe someone will share a piece of Zircon 804 with you.

more info here about a Zircon 804 with a 5000k N219c

and more about Lee Filters and which one moves tint how much…

xevious
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jon_slider wrote:
I bought the swatch book

.

maybe someone will share a piece of Zircon 804 with you.

more info here about a Zircon 804 with a 5000k N219c

and more about Lee Filters and which one moves tint how much…


Does the default swatch book contain the minus green filters? What are the dimensions of the book?
jon_slider
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yes it has the minus green, 1/8, 1/4, 1/2, 1
it also has other filters such as bastard amber 162, marlene #506, amber #775, amber #774, that someone I know mentioned using.. so I liked that I could compare what they used, to what I like.. I prefer 1/4 minus green.. the filters are all marked with the light transmission rate, so you can know how much you are giving up in lumens..

and I have played with some green, and red filters too
I even put a green filter into a plastic bottle cap, that fits over my Novatac and HDS, so I can pop it on and off.. all good fun.. cheaper than a movie

just do it! LOL!

the swatches are 1.5” by about 3” of useable sample, the book is over 2” thick.. there is even diffusion film

what are you wanting to filter?;-)

The_Driver
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Make sure that you buy the Zircon filters if there is any chance at all that they become warm during use (usually when the lens/filter is close to the LED => smaller lights). The standard LEE filters lose their function quickly if they become warm.

jon_slider
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The_Driver wrote:
The standard LEE filters lose their function quickly if they become warm.
maybe true, but did you read this:
rennet wrote:
I’ve had a piece of Lee 249 1/4 minus green between the optic and glass of my 219C D4 since December. I run the light on turbo fairly often. No issues yet.

at the very least, I recommend the swatch book as a way to test the filters, so xevious can experience them, before spending money on the premium Zircon ones, and so he knows which one he needs, or wants

hank
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Search for a photography/theatrical supply store inour area and ask if they stock color correcting filters.
Those big 2-foot square sheets are meant to filter theatrical or photographic lights.

There is another brand — Rosco —- you may find locally.
And ask if they have the filter “sample packs” — which are often sold inexpensively.
Those are little books with 1×1.5-inch strips of each color filter.

PS — the filter packs come out every year; I found suppliers would give me last year’s sample packs free.

middle age man
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Do the various filters, in particular the minus green ones, have a significant impact on CRI?

twisted raven
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Usually they raise the CRI by 3-5 points.

jon_slider
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twisted raven wrote:
Usually they raise the CRI by 3-5 points.

thanks, I found the reference
http://budgetlightforum.com/comment/1117960#comment-1117960
the CRI change depending which filter, is up to 3 points change in CRI Ra, and up to 10 points change in CRI R9

middle age man wrote:
Do the various filters, in particular the minus green ones, have a significant impact on CRI?

imo no, I do not think the CRI improvement to a Low CRI LED, is significant at all.

these are minus green filters:

they replace green tint with pink tint, at the cost of lumens
but they wont change a Low CRI LED into a High CRI LED

nobody
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Probably a stupid question, but if you can't get the bezel off, how do you attach the filter?  I use dc-fix on some lights but it has adhesive and it's no problem to attach and keep it there and be able to remove it.  Does these filters have a similar type of adhesive?

jon_slider
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there is no adhesive on Lee Filters

nobody
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jon_slider wrote:
there is no adhesive on Lee Filters
So how do you attach it to the outside of the lens, say to a Zebralight that you can’t open up?
jon_slider
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I just press the plastic against the glass, and try to get it to jam in place. It is not ideal.

I have also used double sided tape, also not ideal.

I put a low priority on Lee Filters, they are a novelty to me, but not a serious solution for a poor LED. I tend to change the LEDs in my lights.

I do not own any zebras.. you pretty much have to accept them the way they are, since they cannot be opened non destructively.

Also, I cannot clean a Lee filter with alcohol, because to my suprise, the filter dye comes off easily, leaving me with a piece of clear plastic.

Lee filters are a toy, not a serious tool.

nobody
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Uh ... ok. 

twisted raven
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I’ve only used Lee filters on optics lights, since I’m able to sandwich the filter between the lens and optic. I wish I could put one on my beloved SC600 HI.

However, my ROT66 with SST20s is my favorite hiking light thanks to a lee 804 filter.

thefreeman
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nobody wrote:

So how do you attach it to the outside of the lens, say to a Zebralight that you can’t open up?

On my H600fc I put a tiny amount of glue from a glue stick around the edge between the glass and filter. It works ok but a water resistant glue might be better.

BurningPlayd0h
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nobody wrote:

jon_slider wrote:
there is no adhesive on Lee Filters
So how do you attach it to the outside of the lens, say to a Zebralight that you can’t open up?

A tiny amount of contact cement around the edge of the lens. Water resistant and easy to remove with rubbing alcohol later.

On lights where the bezel is removeable I put it between the lens and bezel (or optics and lens on TIR lights).

Highly suggest the -1/4 for anyone buying filters. If a light has a high enough duv that you’ll want to lower it the -1/8 doesn’t really do enough, and the difference in total output loss between the two filter strengths is very minimal – basically imperceptible.

nobody
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BurningPlayd0h wrote:
nobody wrote:

jon_slider wrote:
there is no adhesive on Lee Filters
So how do you attach it to the outside of the lens, say to a Zebralight that you can’t open up?

A tiny amount of contact cement around the edge of the lens. Water resistant and easy to remove with rubbing alcohol later. On lights where the bezel is removeable I put it between the lens and bezel (or optics and lens on TIR lights). Highly suggest the -1/4 for anyone buying filters. If a light has a high enough duv that you'll want to lower it the -1/8 doesn't really do enough, and the difference in total output loss between the two filter strengths is very minimal - basically imperceptible.
in the Zircon filters, what # would be -1/4?
jon_slider
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The 802 Zircon Minus Green reduces lumens by 25%,
that would be closest to the 1/2 minus Green, that reduces by 28%

Zircon 803 reduces lumens by 20%
that would be closest to Lee 249 Quarter minus green, that reduces lumens 18%

Discussed here
http://budgetlightforum.com/comment/1117960#comment-1117960

Examples of with and without Lee
http://budgetlightforum.com/comment/1234356#comment-1234356

nobody
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Thanks everybody for the help. I’ll see if any of these things work for me. Otherwise I will have to live with some lights as they are or learn to swap LED’s. 

jon_slider
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nobody wrote:
or learn to swap LED’s

this forum has a number of super helpful people that can help guide you into modding

I find it extremely rewarding, but before I invested about $300 in the tools, I used to mail my lights to other people for modding..

each light model has its own challenges, if you want help with a particular light, look for, or ask for, information about its personality quirks, and how moddable it may be

good luck fine tuning your LED options

any single light source can work, our brain adapts and adjusts to any particular source

its only when you start comparing that differences become obvious.. for a example, a nichia will usually make any other LED look greener in a side by side comparison…

thefreeman
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BurningPlayd0h wrote:

A tiny amount of contact cement around the edge of the lens. Water resistant and easy to remove with rubbing alcohol later.

On lights where the bezel is removeable I put it between the lens and bezel (or optics and lens on TIR lights).

H*ighly suggest the -1/4 for anyone buying filters*. If a light has a high enough duv that you’ll want to lower it the -1/8 doesn’t really do enough, and the difference in total output loss between the two filter strengths is very minimal – basically imperceptible.

I’d recommend against using classic filters, only Zircon, on my H600fc the 1/4 minus green was clear after one runtime.

Edit : Actually even with the Zircon 804 it seems to have shifted ~+0.0010 duv since I put it on, I think I must have gone through around 10 cells since then. Maybe a durability test would be in order to confirm that.

jon_slider
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thefreeman wrote:
I’d recommend against using classic filters, only Zircon, on my H600fc the 1/4 minus green was clear after one runtime.

agree,
I dont recommend non zircon Lee filters for more than 200 lumen output, they are not very heat resistant and can deform. Did not realize you could cook the dye off them too… but I dont have experience using 1000+ lumens…

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