Supfire A2. Supfire's cute little zoom 18650 side switch.

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dealgrabber2002
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Thanks Firelight2

dlong
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Any thoughts about making the red/green led a locator light in the dark? Tom E / freeme could one of you measure the power usage of the red/green led to see how much power it’s using?

I miss the parasitic drains from the ‘find me’ blinking leds. I can’t find anywhere….

-d

dlong
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Does anyone know if the red blinking light charges to green when it is done charging? And does it know to stop charging or does it trickle or restart if voltage drops?

-d

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I did some resistor mod tests with the origional led. I have settled on one added R100 resistor. It now pulls 3.2Amps on high. I got the current all the way up to 3.6 but the driver shut down at the level. I don’t know what happened, but after a while it reset and started working again. So the R100 resistor is right on the edge of what the driver can handle. After, I get everything set, I will probably pot the driver.

Still not sure what led to put in it. I have some xpl hi’s but im hesitant to use one as I have some other builds worthy of the xpl. How well do dedomed xml2s work in these types of zoomies? I wonder if I dedome the stock blue tint emitter if it would turn green?

Firelight2
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PPDB22 wrote:
I did some resistor mod tests with the origional led. I have settled on one added R100 resistor. It now pulls 3.2Amps on high. I got the current all the way up to 3.6 but the driver shut down at the level. I don’t know what happened, but after a while it reset and started working again. So the R100 resistor is right on the edge of what the driver can handle. After, I get everything set, I will probably pot the driver.

Still not sure what led to put in it. I have some xpl hi’s but im hesitant to use one as I have some other builds worthy of the xpl. How well do dedomed xml2s work in these types of zoomies? I wonder if I dedome the stock blue tint emitter if it would turn green?

I should try resistor modding mine. Can you take a photo of the driver showing where to put the R100?

Firelight2
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dlong wrote:
Does anyone know if the red blinking light charges to green when it is done charging? And does it know to stop charging or does it trickle or restart if voltage drops?

-d

It changes to green when done.

Don’t know if it stops charging at that point.

Tom E
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Put the R100 over one of the R500's shown here (pic from earlier):

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Tom E wrote:

Put the R100 over one of the R500’s shown here (pic from earlier):


Nice. Thanks for the picture. Crown

LightRider
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Firelight2 wrote:
PPDB22 wrote:
I did some resistor mod tests with the origional led. I have settled on one added R100 resistor. It now pulls 3.2Amps on high. I got the current all the way up to 3.6 but the driver shut down at the level. I don’t know what happened, but after a while it reset and started working again. So the R100 resistor is right on the edge of what the driver can handle. After, I get everything set, I will probably pot the driver.

Still not sure what led to put in it. I have some xpl hi’s but im hesitant to use one as I have some other builds worthy of the xpl. How well do dedomed xml2s work in these types of zoomies? I wonder if I dedome the stock blue tint emitter if it would turn green?

I should try resistor modding mine. Can you take a photo of the driver showing where to put the R100?

Be warned that I have not fully tested the drivers capability to handle this current.

I will have my light back together soon and i will test its ability to run down from a full charge. I semi-potted the driver, reflowed the emitter to a 16mm sinkpad, and removed the dome. Tomorrow, I just need to solder up the led leads and put it back together.

I also sanded off the anodizing where the pill lip touches the head when screwed down tight. This way I have electrical contact there so I feel better about putting some thermal paste on the pill threads. I did this to another zoomie and it worked well.

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Completed modding this A2 today. I was afraid dedoming the led would make it green, but the result was PERFECT neutral white! I’m very satisfied with it. Also potting the driver has greatly reduced the hum that can be heard on the lower modes.

I just today got a light meter in the mail. I got it used in eBay and it seems nice. It has 400,000 lux range and four sensitivity settings. Anyway, I have absolutely no idea as to how to use it yet so I don’t know how relevant these readings will be?

On focus
High at 2meters is 130, 000 lux
Low at 2meters is 3,500 lux

Do those numbers sound possible? Dedomed xml2@ 3.2amps

Firelight2
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PPDB22 wrote:
Completed modding this A2 today. I was afraid dedoming the led would make it green, but the result was PERFECT neutral white! I’m very satisfied with it. Also potting the driver has greatly reduced the hum that can be heard on the lower modes.

I just today got a light meter in the mail. I got it used in eBay and it seems nice. It has 400,000 lux range and four sensitivity settings. Anyway, I have absolutely no idea as to how to use it yet so I don’t know how relevant these readings will be?

On focus
High at 2meters is 130, 000 lux
Low at 2meters is 3,500 lux

Do those numbers sound possible? Dedomed xml2@ 3.2amps

Most throw measurements are reported at 1 meter. 130K lux at 2 meters = 530,000 lux at 1 meter.

For a dedomed XML2 at 3.2 amps and 20mm aspheric lens I’d expect throw to be 18-25K lux at 1 meter.

So yeah… I think you’re way off. Something clearly isn’t quite right in your measurements.

LightRider
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Firelight2 wrote:
PPDB22 wrote:
Completed modding this A2 today. I was afraid dedoming the led would make it green, but the result was PERFECT neutral white! I’m very satisfied with it. Also potting the driver has greatly reduced the hum that can be heard on the lower modes.

I just today got a light meter in the mail. I got it used in eBay and it seems nice. It has 400,000 lux range and four sensitivity settings. Anyway, I have absolutely no idea as to how to use it yet so I don’t know how relevant these readings will be?

On focus
High at 2meters is 130, 000 lux
Low at 2meters is 3,500 lux

Do those numbers sound possible? Dedomed xml2@ 3.2amps

Most throw measurements are reported at 1 meter. 130K lux at 2 meters = 530,000 lux at 1 meter.

For a dedomed XML2 at 3.2 amps and 20mm aspheric lens I’d expect throw to be 18-25K lux at 1 meter.

So yeah… I think you’re way off. Something clearly isn’t quite right in your measurements.


Ya ok thanks. I figured since I had the meter in hand that I would just point and shoot to see what would happen. I need to learn to use the thing Facepalm
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The difference from before and after this mod, is quite remarkable. These are two pics that don’t really do justice,but you can see the tighter beam profile. This is with an R100 resistor mod with potted driver and dedomed emitter. A side effect that is welcome but I don’t understand is the low mode is dimmer after the mod. Low is way too high so this is nice but I don’t know why.

These pics are taken with my iPhone pointed at the ceiling on the floor with the flashlight. I have a camera but I don’t know what settings to use for these kinds of pictures anyway. If someone can point me to a tutorial I can try to get better pics.

This one is al the way focused: to the eye it is night and day brighter. Bigger difference than can be seen in these photos.

This one is zoomed out in low mode till they appeared to be the same size. Maybe the dedomed version looks dimmer because it was zoomed out farther to match the size of the stock beam size?

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Has anyone tried the supfire a5? I ordered a cheap one on eBay and it’s not the same quality as the a2. I’m wondering if these eBay offers are for fakes. Anyone order from a reputable seller?

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My Supfire A2 is modded now almost as far as I can get it with the stock driver:
-led=dedomed XP-G2 S3 3D (good old type) on 16mm Noctigon
-blackened everything around the led with flat heater paint
-two battery springs replaced by carobronze springs (Fasttech), both soldered into the brass cup, the driver spring soldered to the driver as well.
-transferred the led+ wire to the other side of the R500 resistors.
-did not replace or shorten the ledwires, may do that at some point but I read above that the driver has its limits.

On a fresh 30Q (30 seconds) I got 3.25A,680lumen,over40kcd throw, so the led is well driven.

If only Supfire had done the PWM and mode spacing right….

Btw, hobbyking of all places has the best price

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Can someone measure the charge current of the built in charging?

LightRider
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LightRider wrote:
Can someone measure the charge current of the built in charging?

Anyone? I can’t seem to find this information anywhere.

djozz
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LightRider wrote:
LightRider wrote:
Can someone measure the charge current of the built in charging?

Anyone? I can’t seem to find this information anywhere.


I was wondering about it too, I will have a go at measuring some numbers tonight Smile
LightRider
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djozz wrote:
LightRider wrote:
LightRider wrote:
Can someone measure the charge current of the built in charging?

Anyone? I can’t seem to find this information anywhere.


I was wondering about it too, I will have a go at measuring some numbers tonight Smile

Thanks friend!

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Ok. Good news. The charger is working correctly. I temeasured using my multimeter and got a reading of .65amps of charge current. My benchtop meter must be incorrect. I just installed it all and started using it so there may need to be some calibration to get it to read properly.

Here you can see the unit is charging and able to light up the led at the same time. Note the power reading of 9watts. This is incorrect. It charges at a bit over 2watts or .65amps.

The red indicator leds flash until the battery is fully charged.

It draws 50ua of power in standby mode. Not bad!

I mixed up some thermal adhesive to stabilize the piggybacked driver and add a small thermal path to the host.

Installing the led in a little bit! Smile

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I now have a supfire a2 zoomie with charging running Narsil and pulling 4.3amps from the dedomed origional led:) There was some uneccessary complicity to this build but I learned much. Most of all it looks as if our driver boards can run parallel to an onboard charging circuit!

djozz
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Great job, I’m jealous of your A2 performance, I like that flashlight a lot, apart from the stock driver! Does this free me from measuring the A2’s charge current, as you already found it to be 0.65A ?

I think that you are right about the desirability of a BLF driver with inbuilt charging, but using it will always require a suitable host with microUSB opening, or else you will have to create one. It will never be an easy mod and at this moment only few lights are suitable.

wle
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too long for EDC in pocket…
sorry…
wle

"You never have the wind with you - it's either against you, or you're having a good day."
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Firelight2
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wle wrote:
too long for EDC in pocket…

Agreed.

I am still searching for a replacement for the Aleto N8 zoomie. It’s the shortest 18650 zoomie I could find and had decent build quality including heatsink fins. Unfortunately, I only found one supplier of it ever (on Ebay) and haven’t seen it for sale in well over a year. Wish I’d bought more of them at the time as it made a great mod host.

Supfire A2 looks beautiful and well-made, but it is far too long. I’m not sure how much length I could shave off by modding it and still have a decent looking light.

LightRider
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Yes. There is a lot of wasted space in the head… well, not in mine:)

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Congrats on the working light. Beer Amazing mod.

 

djozz quotes, "it came with chinese lettering that is chinese to me".

                      "My man mousehole needs one too"

old4570 said "I'm not an expert , so don't suffer from any such technical restrictions".

Old-Lumens. Highly admired and cherished member of Budget Light Forum. 11.5.2011 - 20.12.16. RIP.

 

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Thanks:)

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I did a simple check of the Supfire A2’s internal charging of a Samsung 30Q battery. I started with a fairly empty battery, at 3.32V, and just recorded the current delivered by the USB source and every now and then I took the battery out, measured the resting voltage, put it in again and resumed charging (this could be the cause of the not so perfect curve). At the end, with the battery at 4.19V resting voltage, the current instantly dropped from 80mA to zero, that looks like the charger actively stopped charging which is a good sign Smile I checked: upon disconnecting the USB and reconnecting it, the flashlight started charging again at 80mA and after a few minutes dropped to zero again.

I did not check if it is the 100% correct charging curve but it looks not bad to me.

sac02
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I’m getting one of these lights, and am debating between djozz’s approach of bypasing the resistors entirely:

And LightRider’s technique of adding R100 across one of the R500:

If I do R100, what size resistor would I shop for? I do not have a stockpile of electronic components to pick through yet.

Google seems to indicate that they come in standard sizes:

LightRider
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sac02 wrote:
I’m getting one of these lights, and am debating between djozz’s approach of bypasing the resistors entirely:

And LightRider’s technique of adding R100 across one of the R500:

If I do R100, what size resistor would I shop for? I do not have a stockpile of electronic components to pick through yet.

Google seems to indicate that they come in standard sizes:

!{width:50%}http://www.learnabout-electronics.org/Resistors/images/SMT-packages.gif!

Ever since djozz mentioned bypassing the resistors without trouble, that is what I have been doing with good results. Actually I’ve just been removing the r500s all together to keep as spare parts.

The only concern I’ve had after increasing the current is the size of the trace going from the fet to led+. It’s quite small, so I’ve been jumping over from fet out to led+ with a small 26awg wire. You can see a photo earlier in the thread. However, this may be totally unnessisary as djozz hasn’t had problems. It just gives me peace of mind.

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