At this point i am looking at the Liitokala 300, because its been reviewed by HKJ, it can test resistance and capacity, and can charge 2 batteries simultaneously.
Though i do not know what the difference is between the 260 and 300
Also are there other chargers that can do the same things for comparable cost, i know about the Opus 3100,
Also is gearbest the best price currently available?
http://www.gearbest.com/chargers/pp_284149.html
http://www.gearbest.com/chargers/pp_278547.html
TIA
The obvious difference is that the Liito-Kala 300 also charges NiMH batteries, the 260 only LiIon.
Well, besides what thomashf wrote - the 260 has a hard time on taking protected cells - they fit, but only if you use force. the 300 is a bit longer and has no problems with those cells.
I would buy the 300 if I wouldn’t have the 260 laying around.
Or you just spend 10$ more and get the 4-Slot Version Lii-500 LiitoKala Lii-500 Lithium- und NiMH-Akku LCD Smartest Charger Sale - Banggood Deutschland-arrival notice-arrival notice
Got to second the Lii-500, unless you have space issues or whatever. Been excellent for me, and a great compliment to a Nitecore D4, which will charge even LiFePo4’s that the Lii-500 doesn’t.
Been very happy with mine, but it seems the RC3000 that HKJ just tested is a replacement for both of the above. A price increase for sure, but it will grow with your needs for an analyzing charger, or just function like a D4 if that is all you want from it…
I have been quite happy with my OPUS 3100 but I normally use my D4 unless I need to analyze cells. I cannot say anything about Liito Kala line-up except it seems that those that have them love them. The OPUS now goes for something like $33 +/-
As RemanG mentioned...that new RC3000 is upping the game quite a bit but it is also 3x the cost but probably worth it.
Lol, on a hobbyist forum there is no such thing as overkill. Maybe a XML at 5A plus is overkill but we all still want more.
I like the fact the SkyRC has been developed, it’s a step in the right direction.
Is it overkill to charge 4.30 volt batteries to 4.30 volt, this is the only charger that supports it.
Is it overkill to lower the voltage for long time storage, this is the only charger for round cells that supports it.
Is it overkill to get fairly precise results, than can be compared to other on the internet, not only to the same channel on the same charger.
^
I will say this again. Everyone here probably has a cell phone with a Lithium Ion battery in it. Every day we recharge it and deplete it the following day. By far the most used cell we use, yet who here knows its’ final charge state, the charging current or its’ capacity. Who here ever even wondered what they are. If all you want to do is USE the device, the details are not that important.
Now as a HOBBY, and a hobby charger has that word in its’ name, it will be important. Charging and discharging my flashlight batteries is my second hobby. 
The one in my cell phone, not so much.
All reasons that if I had to buy ONE multi slot analyzing charger for my needs, it would be the SkyRC MC3000. About the cost, it does enough to justify the cost in my opinion, and then I have free bench space as it is only one charger. Currently, my Lii-500 and D4 are working perfectly well and will not be replaced, but if they die….
Many replies
I did not realize the 300 does NiMH and the 260 doesn’t though i have a Lacrosse BC700 so i have NiMH covered. I do fine with 1 li ion charging so two is an improvement for me, but you do make a good point, but funds are tight and two cells will do nicely.
The ability to take protected cells is a very good idea, i only have laptop pulls and a few loose cells that are unprotected but future proofing is a good idea. I do hope it can take 26650 cells as i do have some.
The SkyRC looks like an extremely impressive charger, but the price is way out of my league, but if funds were not an issue i would be all over it (pending HKJ’s review)
I did not realize i would have to use the same channel to get comparable reading, thanks for letting me know, that would drive me crazy. If i understand correctly it does not calculate actual resistance so its numbers can only be used for relative comparison purposes, but i’ll assume thats a lot better then nothing.
I think people who are serious about hobbies, any hobbies, don’t mind spending money on things that make it more interesting and fun. And $100 for a charger really isn’t much money. I have $150 sunk into other chargers that could all be replaced by the SkyRC MC3000.
Flashlight stuff really is a cheap hobby even if you include all the lights, chargers, batteries, DMM’s, etc. I’d be surprised if many people have several thousand dollars in flashlight stuff and that’s really small compared to shooting, golf, travel, etc.
Your 99% is just a SWAG and my SWAG is that 90% of the people who treat flashlights as a hobby don’t mind paying $100 for something like the SkyRC MC3000. Precision and features are important and in my opinion not esoteric features :nerd_face:
1. I have a expensive Fluke in my work and it sucks to come home and know that values are off by up to 1%.
2. The OCD part in me requires to charge my batteries with a perfect CC/CV curve with precise drop at 4.20V.
3. I need a reference charger.
This debate is just as pointless as people discussing thermal pastes, is there any practical advantage by using Arctic Alumina vs Arctic Silver? Can you notice a difference of 5 lumens in output? There is no point in explaining why the extra precision is important when it is a matter of personal taste.
Overkill has never been an issue in ANY hobby community, be it budget or not.
As a numbers person accuracy and precision is extremely important
It’s important for me because I like to know as precisely as possible how everything is performing. This extends to my other hobbies as well. For example within reason I want the best reloading scale as possible. Does it really matter for most loads? No…but I’m comforted by the fact that I know what I’m dropping into the cases. And I have check weights to verify that my balance scales are indeed accurate.
You are making a broad statement that nobody needs ‘esoteric features’, whatever that mean. In fact that is just a personal opinion that’s right for you and clearly not for others.
In another post you said “@Bort That doesn’t answer my question. Most hobbyists have no need for the better accuracy/precision. But if you think that you do then please do elaborate.”. I could argue that nobody needs more than 100 lumens and 1 flashlight. So do you only have one 100 lumen light? If not…please explain why not.
@gauss since you have said it yourself “most have no need” and not “no one needs” then please explain why do you think there’s a minority who do need that level of precision? Then you’ve answered your own question.
Most hobbyists have no need for hobbies either 
I find it useful to have accurate numbers to work with, whether i am calculating annual heating consumption of my house or a proposed building with computer modelling (i am not a professional energy auditor, i use it on my house to plan efficiency upgrades and for interest in case i make it into the field someday), or testing batteries that are not working properly (i have been trying to re-purpose some old rayovac hybrid NiMH, without much success, they may only have 100 cycles on them but they are toast, the capacity is fine so i can’t just rotate them frequently, something i would not have known without my BC700), or being able to figure out how much replacement parts will reduce resource consumption (water use by toilets, LED bulb wattage) and so forth.
In the spider thread i posted i have used my Convoy S2 on medium for hundreds of hours of use. On medium a battery would last about 45 mins (and at 40% should last 2 hours). I thought i have poor laptop pull batteries. It turns out the modes are not well regulated. HKJs tests showed the modes are not fixed percentages but decrease in brightness just like 100% output as the battery drains and usually start at higher then the stated percent. Incorrect conclusion on my part based on lack of data. Fortunately i did not throw away many batteries based on my mistake that would be prevented with a capacity testing charger.
With an internal resistance and capacity testing charger i can figure out when a battery is dying and get rid of it sooner, so when i want light i am not shortchanging myself, in a BOB for example expecting a light to last 12 hours but a bad battery that gives you half the life can make you quite miserable.
If i am geocaching (combining one hobby with another) a battery with reduced capacity then expected can leave me in the middle of a forest in the dark
I can also use capacity information to plan ahead, if my laptop battery has lost 10% of its capacity then its in fairly good shape, if it has lost 60% its going to die soon, so i should shop for replacements, preferably on sale.
Battery bar is good laptop software, it tells you the capacity loss, i wish there were a cell phone equivalent
One man’s useless feature is another man’s holy grail, so what is this commotion all about? Haha
….but for the sake of argument, why not? Keep on firing guys!
I have the D4 and Lil 500 among a few others, and while I was planning to get the 3000, I find that I am good where I’m at right now.
To buy the 3000, or not to buy the 3000… That is the question.
If you really “Need” it, you are probably a very rare breed.
If you just “Want” it and can afford to buy it, then by all means do so!
I can afford it, but only having 32 flashlights, I think that my money could be better spent on more lights
Your Millage May Vary;-)
-Chuck
Great visual aid Bort!! I like it as it can apply to many things….
Did you ever get a MC3000?? I did & it is an amazing tool……. 
This is an old image, it was even in an old metrology textbook from who knows when.
I ended up getting a Liitokala 300, good charger, could use some improvements, but my budget could not handle a MC3000