What did you mod today?

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Gea2427
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After hours of sanding, chopping, and trying to center the emitter she’s finally alive! Modded an ml25lt with an osram flat black, an old style c8 reflector I got from ebay ( not very good quality so ordered again from fasttech), a chopped tube, a modified pill with a mtn 17ddm Fet driver, and a forward tail clicky to run through the modes. It runs on a 26350,which was originally supposed to run a 26650 but messed up on my measurements. But love the way it turned out. I also modded a mini c8 with the osram just for s&g and was pleasently surprised by it. The c8 mini can run either an 18350 or 18650 but I like the way it looks with the 18350 tube ha. Both throw very well for what they are and are decently bright. I do not have any tools to measure candela or lux so I unfortunately do not have any stats on them. But compared them both with my convoy c8 xpl hi with fet and both out throw the c8 (at least to my eyes)I added a pic of them with a c8 just for size comparisons.



luminarium iaculator
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LOL
ZozzV6
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Made lighted tailcap for an Eagle eye X2R. Used stock switch board because it has pads for leds and resistors. And a convoy clear washer grinded down to fit diameter. I used one pink and one blue led under the stock spare green rubber cap. The driver needed an 560 Ohm bleeder resistor to keep mode memory. Without bleeder it was worked as next mode memory. The blue led got 47K resistor and the pink got 2×10K stacked parallel.

vwpieces
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Looks nice under the green Zozz.
Thanks for listing the resistor info too.
I have another X2R on the way, great to hear they are using boards with pads for DIY lighted SW.

ZozzV6
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vwpieces wrote:
Looks nice under the green Zozz.
Thanks for listing the resistor info too.
I have another X2R on the way, great to hear they are using boards with pads for DIY lighted SW.

They use white plastic washer on top of the switch. The light can go through it but dimmer then convoy clear plastic washer.
vwpieces
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I have found the white plastic is nice to diffuse (smooth) the spots made by the LEDs and works well on single color, 2X LED builds with white tailcaps.
You always make the nicest multi color blends.

I got a bunch of the Convoy lighted tails off ElfLand AliXp store when they became available. Too cheap to pass up and for the included parts they are good to have.

djozz
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At attempt number three, the first attempt was half a year ago, the bezel of my EC21 finally surrendered! The head clamped firmly into a vice, stoked up incredibly hot with a blowtorch, tightly wrapped in a strip of inner tire and giving it all the strength of my hands, it finally gave in.

Red loctite Angry

giorgoskok
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Jos , when your hands recover , my mh20 waits to be opened Silly

Haha , tried twice already , maybe i should try a third time too , for now i’m trying not to damage the light …

luminarium iaculator
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Djozz,

Free commercial to loctite Thumbs Up

Enderman
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djozz wrote:
At attempt number three, the first attempt was half a year ago, the bezel of my EC21 finally surrendered! The head clamped firmly into a vice, stoked up incredibly hot with a blowtorch, tightly wrapped in a strip of inner tire and giving it all the strength of my hands, it finally gave in.

Shocked
I want to open an MH12GT some time in the future for a mod, was there any damage done to the anodizing?
How did you clamp it in a vice without squishing it?

EDIT- oh you mean you clamped the hexagonal part in the vice, right? not the bezel

-X3-
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No need to heat, just use force Silly

Though I do understand why manufacturers do that, it still irritate me when I discover red/green/whatever color loctite in a light…

"-X3-, is there any place in your house without a flashlight ?" 

My Flashlight public album (mods, emitter swaps, eye candy)

My reviews channel (French language, Olight, Thorfire, Sofirn, Lumintop : 60+ lights tested)

My personal channel (including Olight SR mini, S1, S2, S1A and S-mini disassembly)

M4DM4X blog, saves you $$$ 

thulfiqar
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X3 wrote:

No need to heat, just use force Silly

Though I do understand why manufacturers do that, it still irritate me when I discover red/green/whatever color loctite in a light…

The only way to weaken The red loctite is by using heat (anything above 150c+ is enough to melt it)

Regards

-X3-
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You also have to clamp firmly without scratching the anodizing…
Wood jaws are really helpful, and inner tube allows firm grip

"-X3-, is there any place in your house without a flashlight ?" 

My Flashlight public album (mods, emitter swaps, eye candy)

My reviews channel (French language, Olight, Thorfire, Sofirn, Lumintop : 60+ lights tested)

My personal channel (including Olight SR mini, S1, S2, S1A and S-mini disassembly)

M4DM4X blog, saves you $$$ 

djozz
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The vice is aluminium and the claws are flat and painted, so indeed on the hexagonal part the head could be clamped tight without damage. The ano on the bezel is not discoloured.

thulfiqar
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X3 wrote:
You also have to clamp firmly without scratching the anodizing…
Wood jaws are really helpful, and inner tube allows firm grip

Thumbs Up Party
18sixfifty
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[quote=djozz]At attempt number three, the first attempt was half a year ago, the bezel of my EC21 finally surrendered! The head clamped firmly into a vice, stoked up incredibly hot with a blowtorch, tightly wrapped in a strip of inner tire and giving it all the strength of my hands, it finally gave in. Red loctite Angry

 

I’m a junky, I mod lights so I can sell lights so I can buy more light to mod so I can sell lights to buy more lights to mod.

Edness
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giorgoskok wrote:
Jos , when your hands recover , my mh20 waits to be opened Silly

Haha , tried twice already , maybe i should try a third time too , for now i’m trying not to damage the light …

My cw mh20 is glued. NW is not.

MtnDon
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Whoo-Hoo! A milestone reached today!

I re-flashed a nanjg 47 today! First time ever! Re-flashed several times. Erased. Re-flashed again, just to prove it worked.

I got the USBasp board, wires and Pomona SOIC-8 clip a week or so ago. I have MHV AVR shell as well as Atmel Studio 7 on my laptop.

I threw together a little test board; a cell holder, reverse clicky switch, emiiter and the nanjg 47 I had on hand. The idea of the board was to make it possible to try the re-flashed driver without having to open a light. I even added a 4056 charger board I had on hand.

First I erased the std nanjg firmware. That was a success as the “light” quit working. Smile
Then I flashed NLITE to the driver and it worked first time! Great feeling.

Next I wanted to try some other firmware. I selected JonnyC’s STAR firmware. That does not come in a ready to use hex file like NLITE. Okay… a new learning experience. I used a few reference pages here on BLF. this, and this one, mainly. Thanks to all who contributed to those as well as others I read.

Atmel Studio 7 is new to me. It took some ‘feeling around’ and reading to make some sense of it all. I downloaded the xxxx.c file from toykeepers repositry and began. I have not done any programming for a couple of decades. Eventually I made a hex file that worked.

I am so pleased. I also know I have some study and trials to go through before I can make it through the process without having to check references. I need to make myself a step by step guide document as right now it is all a blur.

vwpieces
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Cool Don. You are far past my ability making the *.hex
I took the cheater route. But still is a good feeling to get it flashed to a driver and working result.
CONGRATS!!

MtnDon
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Thanks. I bumbled my way through somehow. For a while my Bitdefender settings were not allowing Atmel Studio to run the hex making process completely. That was a puzzle until I realized the problem. I really want to learn enough so I can set the emitter levels to what I want without having to read a handbook for every step. That’ll take a while.

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vwpieces wrote:
I have found the white plastic is nice to diffuse (smooth) the spots made by the LEDs and works well on single color, 2X LED builds with white tailcaps.
You always make the nicest multi color blends.

I got a bunch of the Convoy lighted tails off ElfLand AliXp store when they became available. Too cheap to pass up and for the included parts they are good to have.

I agree, I like the diffused/smooth look the white plastic washers make. I need to order some Convoy lighted switch sets too.

I’d rather use my flashlight around the house than turn on the lights.

DB Custom
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I discovered that the 5” chuck on my lathe can hold virtually any bezel tight enough to break whatever glue they use. Spin it up with a propane torch hitting the approx thread area then use a large Boa Constrictor rubber strap wrench. On occasion a 16” channel lock comes to aid. Wink

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Thank you Toykeeper! I just used the .c file for the tail-light firmware to practice making a hex file and it worked when flashed to the nanjg driver. Wonderful! I like the bi-level blinky. It should make a good tail light. Thanks again…. fun while learning!

sovereignknight
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Modded my Jaxman Z1 with a MT-G2 Q0.

Turned out pretty good.

Much better than the XHP50 that was in it.

https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/John_3:16 

Flashlights:

x2 Sk68 modded 1 Nichia 319AT, 1 Cree XP-G3 - x1 Solorforce P60 drop in custom XM-L2 U4 1C, Qlight Rev.A 7135*8 3.04A Driver - x2 Lumintop EDC05 CW - x2 Jaxman E2L tripple XP-G2 S4 
x1 Jaxman Z1 Zoomie, w/ Cree MT-G2 Q0 LED - x1 Acebeam K40m thrower with MT-G2 Q0 LED - x1 Xintd SC-82 V5 Limited Edition C8, XM-L2 U4 1C, Qlight Rev.A 7135*8 3.04A Driver
x1 Convoy L6 moded with a Cree XHP-70.2 P2 1D LED - x1 Rare Olight x7 Maurauder with a Nuetral White LED - x1 Astrolux MF-01 Nichia 219c - x1 Astrolux MF-01 Cree XP-G3 - x2 Zebralight SC5w MKII  

x2 Lumintop Tool AA - x1  x2 Lumintop Tool AA 2.0 - x1 Lumintop ODL20C - x1 Lumintop GT mini - x1 Olight i3E EOS - x2 Zebralight SC600w Plus MK IV XHP 50.2 4500k 80 CRI - x1 Fenix CL30R - x1 Lumintop C01 Bike Light - x1 Lumintop Zoom 1 - x2 Zebralight Sc700d - x2 Lumintop Tool AA 2.0 Ti - x1 Olight I3T EOS

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djozz wrote:
The vice is aluminium and the claws are flat and painted, so indeed on the hexagonal part the head could be clamped tight without damage. The ano on the bezel is not discoloured.

It was very hard to break my UT02 too. It was soaked in thread lock. it needed heat, and some heavy equipment to break it. I wrapped the head with very big cable and the tube with leather. The tube bent a little oval so then the Liitokala black 26650 wont fit. So I needed tu put in the wise again to press it back to circle.


vwpieces
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OOOH, thats bad news on the UT02. I just got my first one a couple days ago and haven’t messed with it yet.

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This was ordered about half year ago but it is the black led centering ring version. The tube now circle and the 26650s fit again. The pipe wrench wasn’t enough length with my force so that is why I used the big pressing tool tightened to the tube. The only damage I have after it is that little scratch on the tube block knurling edge:

Here are the pics of the whole disassembly
I twisted off the led with untightening the bezel but it doesn’t damaged so I resoldered back.

vwpieces
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OK just checked, mine is white centering ring. And NO GLUE on the tube. Phew. Will try the resistor mod on it tomorrow.
Read a lot about these and saw a couple vids, but I was suprised how short the light was when I opened the box. I like it a lot and think it has potential beyond the resistor mod.

sovereignknight
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CRX wrote:
I wasn’t happy with the XHP50 in the MBI HF-R so installed an MT-G2 on a 16mm Noctigon sanded down to 12mm with 1mm copper sheet soldered underneath.

Nice mod. Defiantly love the MT-G2. Sure it’s old, but I still think it’s way better then the xhp50.

https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/John_3:16 

Flashlights:

x2 Sk68 modded 1 Nichia 319AT, 1 Cree XP-G3 - x1 Solorforce P60 drop in custom XM-L2 U4 1C, Qlight Rev.A 7135*8 3.04A Driver - x2 Lumintop EDC05 CW - x2 Jaxman E2L tripple XP-G2 S4 
x1 Jaxman Z1 Zoomie, w/ Cree MT-G2 Q0 LED - x1 Acebeam K40m thrower with MT-G2 Q0 LED - x1 Xintd SC-82 V5 Limited Edition C8, XM-L2 U4 1C, Qlight Rev.A 7135*8 3.04A Driver
x1 Convoy L6 moded with a Cree XHP-70.2 P2 1D LED - x1 Rare Olight x7 Maurauder with a Nuetral White LED - x1 Astrolux MF-01 Nichia 219c - x1 Astrolux MF-01 Cree XP-G3 - x2 Zebralight SC5w MKII  

x2 Lumintop Tool AA - x1  x2 Lumintop Tool AA 2.0 - x1 Lumintop ODL20C - x1 Lumintop GT mini - x1 Olight i3E EOS - x2 Zebralight SC600w Plus MK IV XHP 50.2 4500k 80 CRI - x1 Fenix CL30R - x1 Lumintop C01 Bike Light - x1 Lumintop Zoom 1 - x2 Zebralight Sc700d - x2 Lumintop Tool AA 2.0 Ti - x1 Olight I3T EOS

vwpieces
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Wow thats odd that the LED came off like that.
Is the MCPCB DTP? kinda looks like it in the pics.
Thanks for the pics and link to them all.

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