What did you mod today?

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TBone
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Flashy Mike wrote:
but unfortunately I’m kind of a perfectionist and I have to do some finishing with board and firmware first.
We all understand and respect that.
But not for too long Silly
.
Thanks for sharing.
jveneziano
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Wow that’s awesome! what driver or mods did you do to get it to pull that many amps?

ZozzV6 wrote:
Now that I showed my led I show the complete build. I made it yesterday. It draws 17.6A and puts out 7800 lumens. I’m still waiting for SMO reflector. I tried to make the button light show the Hungarian flag colors (red, white, green) but in dark it only shows the red and green because I can’t put white leds in center. Moon: Not moon Smile !{width:60%}http://img1.indafoto.hu/3/9/134029_e227dae7eadb61c0adb17748b381f0a8/2560...!
djozz
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A collegue of mine yesterday showed up with a golden oldie, an EastwardYJ J06. Brought memories back from my DX-forum days 7 years ago. He got it from a friend, it stopped working and if I could fix it. I asked if it is was ok to pimp it a bit,that was ok, but in that case his friend would get another flashlight and the pimped one would be his. Big Smile

This light is still built like a tank, heavy brass pill and such, silky smooth threads, but it has a huge design flaw: upon closing the head and bezel (those actions are coupled, just like KD’s K2 host), the ledboard will rotate and shear the ledwires, it almost costed me a good LG battery when that happened twice before I finally caught what was going on. It was probably why the light failed in the first place because the driver spring was toast when I received the light.

So the mods were:
*bypassing the 0.5 Ohm current limiting resistor on the simple FET-based direct driver (East92-style). High-prettyhigh-strobe is good enough for him and a BLF-A6 driver would already be too complicated.
*replaced the XM-L with a LuxeonV on a 20mm KD DTP board.
*tapped M2 screw holes in the pill to fix the ledboard with two screws
*ream and flatten to size a plastic centerpiece to fit the Luxeon V led and reflector hole.
*bypass the springs

Now the beam is better (the stock light even had no center piece at all), the tint is better (matter of taste), the light is safe, and the output tripled to 1650 lumen @ 30 seconds.

As I noticed with my other Luxeon V builds: this led is rocksteady on output, hardly any temperature sag at all can be observed.

MRsDNF
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Nice mod djozz. I’ll take two please. Smile

 

djozz quotes, "it came with chinese lettering that is chinese to me".

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Edness
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Modded my Lumintop Tool AA. 4.25A at the tail.

MTN-15DDm FET+1
Sanded down a 16mm copper MCPCB pulled from Astrolux S1
XP-L V6 3D


khas
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Changed the emitter in my Emisar D1 to a Luxeon V

I have tried a few Emitters in the D1:

XP-L HI V2 3A, didn’t really like the tint

Luminus SST-40 6500K domed and de-domed, de-dedomed had a great beam profile but the tint was to cold

XM-L2 T3 7A3 CRI90, best tint but the output was just too low

XP-L HI U6 5A3, nice tint but not the best output

XP-L HI V2 5D, great tint and output.

CRX
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47’s PK Paladin ti now with XP-G2 3D emitters and reverse clicky tail switch. 1960lm at startup

.

XXX-Man
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Fixed my Sofirn C8F (old version) today.

Changed dead XP-G3 on aluminium MCPCB with XP-L HI V3 3C on copper DTP MCPCB.
First time I reflowed more than 1 LED on 1 board. Innocent

I don’t have anything good enough to heat mcpcb this size to right temperature, so I had to use electric stove and laser thermometer to get it right. Facepalm




This is just flux marks, I cleaned them later but forgot to take a picture.

Moon

Low
Dust is on outside of glass, didn’t see it until now…

I don’t have good enough camera to do beamshots Sad

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Sofirn SF36 /// Thorfire VG10S /// Sofirn C8F /// Zanflare F1

-X3-
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Edness wrote:
Modded my Lumintop Tool AA. 4.25A at the tail.

MTN-15DDm FET+1
Sanded down a 16mm copper MCPCB pulled from Astrolux S1
XP-L V6 3D


!{width:60%}https://s5.postimg.org/hwjfn45pz/719_CEAC3-687_C-4_B00-_A873-_A839_B7_CC...!


Now this is what the tool AA should be!
Good job!

"-X3-, is there any place in your house without a flashlight ?" 

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My personal channel (including Olight SR mini, S1, S2, S1A and S-mini disassembly)

M4DM4X blog, saves you $$$ 

CRX
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Reworked the Nitecore NTP10 with a Nichia 219B emitter.

.

.

 

ZozzV6
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jveneziano wrote:
Wow that’s awesome! what driver or mods did you do to get it to pull that many amps?

I ordered a Texas Avenger driver from Lexel.

DoNkEyConN
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jveneziano wrote:
Wow that’s awesome! what driver or mods did you do to get it to pull that many amps?

The driver can be ordered from Lexel in —-> THIS <—- thread.

The stock LED will not give you this high output you will need an XHP70.2 you can purchase them from Kaidomain LINK HERE

You will also need some high drain 26650 Batteries. the Liitokala Black 5000Mah batts are good cells.

Hope this helps

djozz
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I finally repaired the switch cover of my DQG Tiny 26650 (third gen., with 7 leds).

In order to reflow new leds (3500K 90CRI 219C’s) by heating the complete head with a blowtorch (the ledboard is glued) a few months ago I removed the driver and switch cover but was never been able to pry out the retaining ring of the switch cover, so it remained loose and was not waterproof. Now I finally pried the retaining ring out and properly mounted the switch cover back into place.

Since I was focussing on this light anyway, I did a current measurement on low and did a runtime test. Will34 in his review measured 6mA in low, which on a 5000mAh Liitokala battery should give more than a month runtime.
However, I measured over 100mA (with 3.5 lm output) and indeed it depleted the Liitokala in 3 days. Has anyone else checked the low setting of their DQG 26650?

Flashy Mike
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djozz wrote:
I finally repaired the switch cover of my DQG Tiny 26650 (third gen., with 7 leds

Regarding this light I’m still thinking of modding the LED board to parallel and using a Fet driver …
Flashy Mike
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djozz wrote:
However, I measured over 100mA (with 3.5 lm output) and indeed it depleted the Liitokala in 3 days. Has anyone else checked the low setting of their DQG 26650?

Same here. Just measured about 100 mA, far too much for the few lumens.
djozz
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Flashy Mike wrote:
djozz wrote:
However, I measured over 100mA (with 3.5 lm output) and indeed it depleted the Liitokala in 3 days. Has anyone else checked the low setting of their DQG 26650?

Same here. Just measured about 100 mA, far too much for the few lumens.

I’m a bit disappointed about it: apart from a nice efficient output a high setting, what is very attractive about a 7-led 26650 non-PWM light is extreme efficiency at the low modes and thus extreme runtime. To discover that my BLF-A6 (12mA at a 4 lumen mode) does a 6 times better job at that being quite a bit smaller and lightweight with a smaller battery is a bummer…
Flashy Mike
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djozz wrote:
I’m a bit disappointed about it: apart from a nice efficient output a high setting, what is very attractive about a 7-led 26650 non-PWM light is extreme efficiency at the low modes and thus extreme runtime. To discover that my BLF-A6 (12mA at a 4 lumen mode) does a 6 times better job at that being quite a bit smaller and lightweight with a smaller battery is a bummer…
Yeah, that’s strange since it has been measured with low current earlier. Perhaps DQQ used some wrong electronic component later without noticing this or our drivers are damaged. If I recall correctly I tried a resistor mod with this light which I removed later. And I replaced the switch. Will have a closer look at the driver if I find the time.
Edness
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Finally got the TA driver from Lexel working with my Astrolux S42. It was quite tricky to get everything apart and put the new parts together, but it’s 100% fuctional.

After getting it working, I decided to reflow XP-L HI v3 3c to replace the 219c. Recharging also works…the only thing not working is the power LED which i did not want anyways. Drawing over 1̶3̶A̶ 14.5A with a full VTC6 and 16.8A with VTC5A at the tail with the new setup with Nasil firmware.


pc_light
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Go-Edness that’s nice work.

My S42 is sitting on the desk waiting for arrival of a replacement optic (pins broke early on). I won’t be doing a reflow though the 219C’s are cooler than I’d like but still hi-CRI.

I will also be doing a Lexel driver upgrade to provide a much needed UI improvement, can’t wait.

Any tips on your disassembly re-assembly?

Seeking the light.

bilakos10
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pc_light wrote:
Go-Edness that’s nice work.

My S42 is sitting on the desk waiting for arrival of a replacement optic (pins broke early on). I won’t be doing a reflow though the 219C’s are cooler than I’d like but still hi-CRI.

I will also be doing a Lexel driver upgrade to provide a much needed UI improvement, can’t wait.

Any tips on your disassembly re-assembly?

I am also interested in swapping the driver.
Any info will be highly appreciated Smile

Edness
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pc_light wrote:
Go-Edness that’s nice work.

My S42 is sitting on the desk waiting for arrival of a replacement optic (pins broke early on). I won’t be doing a reflow though the 219C’s are cooler than I’d like but still hi-CRI.

I will also be doing a Lexel driver upgrade to provide a much needed UI improvement, can’t wait.

Any tips on your disassembly re-assembly?

I pushed the driver out from the top…poking thu the lead hole. Then desolder the brass supports and all the wires and put it back together. Lexel helped me with the steps when I had issues. I also disconnected the old MCU to get rid of the breathing mode.

It was my first time upgrading a driver with charging so it was tricky for me. Doing it again shouldn’t take too long lol.

pc_light
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Sounds good. I may leave old MCU intact and live with the Dragon Breath, particularly as this light won’t be for emergency back-up duty.

Thanks, will take any additional questions off thread so as not get off topic.

Seeking the light.

ToyKeeper
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djozz wrote:
Flashy Mike wrote:
djozz wrote:
However, I measured over 100mA (with 3.5 lm output) and indeed it depleted the Liitokala in 3 days. Has anyone else checked the low setting of their DQG 26650?
Same here. Just measured about 100 mA, far too much for the few lumens.
I’m a bit disappointed about it: apart from a nice efficient output a high setting, what is very attractive about a 7-led 26650 non-PWM light is extreme efficiency at the low modes and thus extreme runtime. To discover that my BLF-A6 (12mA at a 4 lumen mode) does a 6 times better job at that being quite a bit smaller and lightweight with a smaller battery is a bummer…

For comparison, I measured an Emisar D4 with Anduril on some low modes:

  • ~0.2 lm: 1.7 mA
  • 1.8 lm: 6.2 mA
  • 3.5 lm: 11 mA

… and an unmodded BLF A6:

  • ~0.4 lm: 2.6 mA
  • 9.3 lm: 20 mA

… and a ZL SC52: (14500)

  • ~0.1 lm: 2.0 mA
  • 2.5 lm: 11 mA

I also tried a BLF Q8 with Anduril. Measurements were nearly identical to the D4.

Looks like 4 lm at 6 mA would be unusually good. It’s not very hard to get power draw under 6 mA though, if less light is needed.

ToyKeeper
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pc_light wrote:
I may leave old MCU intact and live with the Dragon Breath, …

FWIW, I measured dragon breath mode on another light by the same people, and it used about 3 to 5 mA just to light up the button.

My Q8’s button is just as bright and runs at 0.1 mA on high mode (or ~0.03 mA on low mode).

On a 3000mAh cell, that means the runtime for button-glow mode would be about a month in dragon breath mode, versus about 3 to 11 years on a Q8-style lighted e-switch. In case that affects your decision.

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For the record, a Manker T01 with 22mm FET+1 driver sporting Anduril is a fun little light. Smile

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ToyKeeper wrote:
pc_light wrote:
I may leave old MCU intact and live with the Dragon Breath, …

FWIW, I measured dragon breath mode on another light by the same people, and it used about 3 to 5 mA just to light up the button.

My Q8’s button is just as bright and runs at 0.1 mA on high mode (or ~0.03 mA on low mode).

On a 3000mAh cell, that means the runtime for button-glow mode would be about a month in dragon breath mode, versus about 3 to 11 years on a Q8-style lighted e-switch. In case that affects your decision.

Thanks! So glad that I disconnected the old MCU!

Persechini
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I changed the switch on my Sofirn SF14 from forward clicky to reverse clicky. Simple procedure, changed the switch board and replaced the rubber tailcap with one that didn’t have the internal notch cut out. Now it’s more to my liking and I don’t have the weird single forward clicky in my collection

In my Tree

My collectionEmisar: D4 / D1 / D4 (broken) ― Convoy: C8 Clear / S2+ Clear / S2+ / S2+ UV / S6 ― Nitecore: Tube / Thumb / Concept 1 / HC30 / HC33 / TIP / TIP CRI / TINI ― Lumintop: Tool AAA / Tool AA / HLAAA / EDC05 ― Sofirn: SF10 / SF12 / SF12 / SF14 / SF14 / SF14 / SP10A / SP10A (gifted) ― Jaxman: E3 ― UTorch: UT01 ― Trustfire: Z2 ― Skyfire: SF-065 (trashed)

Lexel
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Edness wrote:
ToyKeeper wrote:
pc_light wrote:
I may leave old MCU intact and live with the Dragon Breath, …

FWIW, I measured dragon breath mode on another light by the same people, and it used about 3 to 5 mA just to light up the button.

My Q8’s button is just as bright and runs at 0.1 mA on high mode (or ~0.03 mA on low mode).

On a 3000mAh cell, that means the runtime for button-glow mode would be about a month in dragon breath mode, versus about 3 to 11 years on a Q8-style lighted e-switch. In case that affects your decision.

Thanks! So glad that I disconnected the old MCU!

better disconnect the old MCU, if you want lighted switch
I have on the new board 2 LED outputs one from the MCU indicator and one permanently on battery voltage, both with resistor pad for the LEDs

Edness
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Lexel wrote:
Edness wrote:
ToyKeeper wrote:
pc_light wrote:
I may leave old MCU intact and live with the Dragon Breath, …

FWIW, I measured dragon breath mode on another light by the same people, and it used about 3 to 5 mA just to light up the button.

My Q8’s button is just as bright and runs at 0.1 mA on high mode (or ~0.03 mA on low mode).

On a 3000mAh cell, that means the runtime for button-glow mode would be about a month in dragon breath mode, versus about 3 to 11 years on a Q8-style lighted e-switch. In case that affects your decision.

Thanks! So glad that I disconnected the old MCU!

better disconnect the old MCU, if you want lighted switch
I have on the new board 2 LED outputs one from the MCU indicator and one permanently on battery voltage, both with resistor pad for the LEDs

lol I need a translator for this…does that mean the new board has light switch for charging indicator?

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not really today, but last week i modded my fridge, i hate CW so i putted a 3200k filter on the leds panel

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