Won’t the short tube version of THAT be fun!

Good thing I have some 26350’s on stand-by….

DB Custom wrote:

Won’t the short tube version of THAT be fun!

Good thing I have some 26350’s on stand-by….

Chunky to the max!

Surely Hank’s making short tubes for these, surely he is….

Well you also have the Haikelite SC26 that’s available on preorder right now that is similar to the D4S. I guess depending if you want a single emitter or a quad, you can pick one or the other. Good to have choices!

New bezel for one of my modded Sipik 58 clones last night.

This Sipik 58 clone previously had an LED Lenser style optic installed. However, the optic was just a little too wide at the top and protruded above the top of my previous bezel. I had epoxied around the top edge of the optic and glued a thin aluminum ring to the very front of the light to cover this gap.

I never was satisfied with this setup. If I dropped it on the bezel I was concerned the ring or optic might fall off the bezel.

To fix this I took another optic and filed the widest part of it off. This was a used optic from previous mod attempts and wasn’t in great condition. I also shortened the to edge of the optic slightly.

This new smaller optic fit much easier inside a fresh bezel. the optic is now fully recessed and I am confident if I drop it, it won’t fall out. It also looks prettier than my prior bezel.

I used my new favorite glue (Fiberfix) to attach the optic to the bezel. Fiberfix is a gooey superglue that instantly cures when the little blue light in the back of the dispenser is shined on it. First I carefully aligned the optic and tested the beam, then tacked the optic down in 3 places with Fiberfix, then went around the edge of the optic with more Fiberfix. The glue is gooey enough not to flow past the edge of the optic and the instant cure with the light is extremely handy.

Aligning the optic is critical with LED Lenser optics. If the optic isn’t perfectly straight the focal point for the outer portion of the optic will be offset from that for the inner aspheric lens. When done right both spots should overlap.

Here are some pictures:

Spot mode:

*
Flood mode*:

Incidently, by far the BEST source of LED Lenser style optics for modders that I’ve found is OSH. The small optic I’m using (same size as on an LED Lenser P5) is from this light . The entire light only costs $9 and gives you an LED Lenser P5 sized optic, along with various other parts.

Also, the optic on these cheap OSH lights has the same focal length for both elements of the optic. This means that in spot beam you get a single spot just like an LED Lenser. You don’t get a spot+spill with less throw like you get with Coast or Fenix Lights (in those lights the focal length for the two elements is intentionally different to produce that beam pattern).

This particular Sipik 58 also has a lot of earlier mods inside it, including the following:

• Tailcap electronic switch
• E-switch driver from Mountain Electronics with Moppydrv firmware
• Interior of battery tube widened to provide room for a plastic sheet bent into a tube and brass sheet bent into a tube. This provides the electrical contact to the tailcap e-switch (Same concept as in the FW3A).
• XPL HI emitter on multi-layer post on Copper Noctigon.

Firelight2 wrote:

This means that in spot beam you get a single spot just like an LED Lenser. You don’t get a spot+spill with less throw like you get with Coast or Fenix Lights (in those lights the focal length for the two elements is intentionally different to produce that beam pattern).

Enderman wrote:

Firelight2 wrote:

This means that in spot beam you get a single spot just like an LED Lenser. You don’t get a spot+spill with less throw like you get with Coast or Fenix Lights (in those lights the focal length for the two elements is intentionally different to produce that beam pattern).

Well that’s nice, very rare to find TIRs like that outside led lenser.
How does the quality and ring artifacts compare to the real led lenser optics?

Overall, I think the quality of the OSH optics is about the same as LED Lenser optics. Not sure if the plastic is as good quality but the shape is great. Rings are mostly caused by bezel reflections. My modded Sipik has no rings outside the beam in any zoom position.

DB Custom wrote:

Dang, the CUTE-4 has the TIR cups on a 17mm C/C pattern where this board is laid out for a 19.8mm C/C pattern. Leg holes will fit, emitters won’t be in the right place for the CUTE-4. I like the CUTE-4 as it has larger individual TIR cups for a 12º half angle vs the Angie’s 21º.

Look at an overlay, the CUTE-4 has intersecting TIR’s while Angie has independent TIR’s, the CUTE-4 center’s for the emitter pads are in green.

So close, but so far from working.

Led4power will have some cute-4 dtp mcpcb’s ready soon !

I actually have found that the CUTE-4, with it’s smaller individual TIR’s, is more floody than I like. So I quit building quads with it some time back. I have 3 or 4 of the optics, just no real desire to build them.

Edit: Angie is new to me, maybe she’ll be “Cute”.

I had an Angie for a while, pain in the ass

We had an Angie around here for a while too, sweet as could be, the kids absolutely adored her!

This old zeusray Warhawk gave me years ago. Driver and LED were still good from when I originally built it, the plastic press in tail cap had since died when I lent it to a buddy.

Used a driver retaining ring filed down, a new PCB and switch and some patients to get it sized and pressed in there.

That’s some pretty good looking work circa 2015

My first MOD and first time soldering, everything´s new for me. Thanks for this aknowledged forum a really nice people – Convoy M1 (new version with rigid shelf), X5/X6 DD driver (changed wires for silicon AWG18), KD Copper DTP MCPCB, XP-L HI 5000K, bypassed springs (silicon AWG18 wires), convoy clip. I had to sanded the bottom of reflector to clear the space, modified C8 spacer (cutted down and lowered), kapton tape just for to be safe and I had to go as flat as I could, when I have been soldereding wires to MCPCB.
Top quality of Convoy host, smooth intense neutral white beam with decent throw. I think this will be a really nice alround flashlight :).

Nice build “F.i.l.a.s”, I love the pictures everyone posts here. Us newbies here are learning from you guys. So much experience to pass on, I Love BLF. Thanks for sharing

WOW F.i.l.a.s really nice job!

Thanks KawiBoy1428

I need some XM centering rings for the convoy C8 reflector with 9mm opening. Does anyone know of one that works?

The “butterfly” centering rings from mtnelectronics are for 7mm reflector opening. I ordered a couple from fasttech because their descriptions matched what I was looking for, but they both are incorrectly sized. Like this one: https://www.fasttech.com/p/4512101 says it is 9mm but it’s actually more like 10mm. I need them to convert my 7xC8 high output thrower to sliced XHP50.2. I could file down the 10mm centering ring, but it is a lot of work since I need 7 of them.

^ boring misleading crap, with further garbage in the sigline.

(edit: x95 deleted his post)

djozz wrote:

^ boring misleading crap, with further garbish in the sigline.

And it’s gone

x95, please keep this forum about flashlights and related hobbies.

(edit: x95 deleted some more posts)

EasyB wrote:

I need some XM centering rings for the convoy C8 reflector with 9mm opening. Does anyone know of one that works?

The “butterfly” centering rings from mtnelectronics are for 7mm reflector opening. I ordered a couple from fasttech because their descriptions matched what I was looking for, but they both are incorrectly sized. Like this one: https://www.fasttech.com/p/4512101 says it is 9mm but it’s actually more like 10mm. I need them to convert my 7xC8 high output thrower to sliced XHP50.2. I could file down the 10mm centering ring, but it is a lot of work since I need 7 of them.

These might work for you

https://m.banggood.com/5PCS-Convoy-XPL-Insulation-Sheet-For-9mm-Reflector-Hole-p-1033479.html

I had some troubles with the gaskets as well since my original op reflector was 7mm, and the smo is around 9mm. these worked for me.

I have sanded it down, since its quite thick though.

Yokiamy wrote:

EasyB wrote:

I need some XM centering rings for the convoy C8 reflector with 9mm opening. Does anyone know of one that works?

The “butterfly” centering rings from mtnelectronics are for 7mm reflector opening. I ordered a couple from fasttech because their descriptions matched what I was looking for, but they both are incorrectly sized. Like this one: https://www.fasttech.com/p/4512101 says it is 9mm but it’s actually more like 10mm. I need them to convert my 7xC8 high output thrower to sliced XHP50.2. I could file down the 10mm centering ring, but it is a lot of work since I need 7 of them.

These might work for you

https://m.banggood.com/5PCS-Convoy-XPL-Insulation-Sheet-For-9mm-Reflector-Hole-p-1033479.html

I had some troubles with the gaskets as well since my original op reflector was 7mm, and the smo is around 9mm. these worked for me.

I have sanded it down, since its quite thick though.

Thanks, but I needed XM sized ones. I have some of those XP sized ones and ended up just modifying them by increasing the emitter hole size with a small square file.

Maybe these?

http://kaidomain.com/9_6mm-x-0_8mm-White-Plastic-Insulation-Gaskets-for-...LED-10pcs?search=Gasket

Nice mod F.i.l.a.s., welcome to the insanity.

Today I am trying to fix a long standing problem once and for all. A member here uses a light for work at night and I fixed up a Shooter 2X for him a while back. Problem is, the guy has a rough job and he’s broken the Shooter multiple times. So this time, a new approach. MagLite’s are known to be tough and durable through all sorts of abuse, so today I modified a 4C MagLite for him using the XHP-35 and driver from his Shooter. Made a heat sink, carved down a 16mm BLF copper DTP MCPCB to fit through the reflector hole of an Mag D LED reflector (much deeper and parabolic, compared to the bowl shape of the shallow Xenon reflector)

The heat sink has a pillar with the MCPCB mounted on top so the light is still focusable if flood is needed. I tested it with my power supply and know that it works, but I need 4 26500 cells to be sure the tail spring is at the correct height and then get output numbers and lux.

He should be able to use this one as a club with little or no affect on the light.

Oh, it was 104º on the mercury style thermometer a couple of feet behind my lathe. In the shade.

Yokiamy wrote:

Maybe these?

http://kaidomain.com/9_6mm-x-0_8mm-White-Plastic-Insulation-Gaskets-for-...LED-10pcs?search=Gasket

Thanks, those should work according to the specs. I appreciate you looking.

But I did end up modifying the XP centering rings successfully. I got around to switching in XHP50.2 emitters in my 7xC8 light . After a few short bursts with some old liitokala 26650s 4 of the 7 XHP50.2s have 2 dies dark. All the emitters came on MCPCBs from mtnelectronics and are well sinked to the aluminum plate with thermal compound. It should be less than 5A per XHP50.2. I was aware of this issue with the XHP50.2 (half the dies going dark) but I guess I thought I would get lucky. Bummer…

Not really a hard mod to say, but right before I was going to reflow my Samsung LH351Ds in my BLF Q8, I had an idea to use with a tofu cylinder container as a big diffuser.

And it fits the Q8 perfectly, and has a much more diffused beam than all of my diffusers. Probably has the best beam of all diffuser I have:

And it snaps over the fins perfectly

Now, if it was flashed with Anduril, you could just hit candlelight mode and pop a cork, have a nice romantic evening by Q8light.

Yeah. It would be so awesome with LH351D 4000k 90CRI and Anduril.

I’m going to reflow them tomorrow when it’s morning, and I’m going to flash Anduril when I get the necessary hardware from China.

Good night.

Built a 532nm stainless steel laser, forward clicky tail switch, 10180 cell.

.

Made a rechargeable 10180 cell for my DQG titanium green laser.

Hmm, that’s not exactly safe is it?

What is its power level?

Nonetheless, great stuff.