The other week I cut the back end of the body on my swm and threaded on a new blank tail piece. Today I fitted a pocket clip. I didn’t thread the Ti for the screws as I feared breaking the tap off in the hole, so it there is a couple of small nuts on the other side. Have more planned… slowly slowly…
H17F modded to run 2 individually addressable leds.
The H17F has 24 brightness levels across all 3 channels as follows,
Step 1-15 PWM, 16 (constant). Channel 1(single amc7135) Active.
Step 17-21 PWM, 22 (constant) both CH 1 & 2(all 8 amc7135) Active.
Step 23 PWM, step 24 (constant) all amc7135 & FET Active.
So the mod is to remove the FET and install an additional amc7135 for the colored leds on channel 3.. but the problem is that when channel 3 is active.. channel 1 & 2 are also on, so the solution was to wire CH 1 & 2 signals thru 2 P mosfets separately, I cutoff the signal traces off the PCB as shown in the 1st picture, than I wired them from the MCU to the source pin of the P mosfets, from the p mosfets drain to the gates of CH1 & 2 amc7135 bank. Than I wired CH3 signal to the gates of both P mosfets & the gate of the additional amc7135 allocated to the colored leds, only problem is step 23 which is PWM driven not cabaple of fully shutting down both P mosfets even when tried using a low pass filter
Will be used for a triple build with 3 white + 3 colored xq-e
Steps 1-22 are normal modes white light, step 23 is both white and colored combined & step 24 is just the colored led.
I got a new toy, I got a new toy!
My machined finish Convoy L2 is now making 2553 lumens from an XHP-35 E4 5700K HD emitter. Lovin it!
Edit: Oh, yeah, from a single 26650.
It pulled 2.08-2.15A at the emitter for 3 minutes, pulling the Shockli 26650 down from a fresh charge to 4.09V. Ran from 8.6 lumens to 2553 lumens, so while I loved the machined finish L2 before, now it’s just POIFECK!
I, uh, seem to have gotten ahold of some old instructions and made a bridge where no bridge was designed to be. Ooops! Maybe I can hot air reflow a component and bring it back to life, checking…
Uh-oh. 3A in a plastic-body light? That poor LED’s gonna get heat-stroke in about a minute with nothing to wick away the heat.
I got a coupla NexTorch nylon-body lights, which come with a 1W LED drop-in, so that’s probably 350mA tops. I wouldn’t push a revamped module past 2W or so, and that only in “burst mode” (ie, get it over with quickly so the LED doesn’t burst).
@Lightbringer
Thanks for your concern, I thought about it too.
I found that the head is actually made from aluminium so hopefully it helps dissipate the heat. Although I also found that drop-in has more contact to the body than to its head. I also made precaution not to use this flashlight intensively (always carry several others for backups).
I forgot who pointed me (and blf in general) at the NexTorches, but he mentioned that it’s nice for camping, etc., when you’d want something that wouldn’t be cold metal in your hand in the middle of winter, etc., so I figured why not? And also to maybe keep one in the car or something and not have it wear off the ano by bouncing around. Just enough light to be useful changing a tire, poking around underneath things, etc.
But I left a 2.8A S2+ tailstanding for just a few minutes on high, and it pretty much turned into a curling iron. I grabbed’n‘dropped it so fast, and couldn’t even turn it off! Had to grab a shirt or whatever (been a while) just to grab hold of one end so I could bap the switch off on the other, and even after air-cooling a few minutes, it still was too hot to pick up, even two-fingers on the tailswitch, farthest away from the LED.
And that’s a pretty solid tube wicking away heat and spreading it around. So when I saw you were using a 3A driver in a drop-in in a plastic-tube light… well, I could visualise the plastic light melting like a Dali painting.
Thanks V77! Looks better in person, when the light/sun hits those diamonds at a certain angle, wow! I cut the o-ring grooves today and put a slight polish to it too. I got a 26650 and a 32650 tubes I’m doing next. When I get the time, I did this in 1hr 15 minutes, so 2 1/2 hr. lunch breaks and a 15 minute morning break, I used the old lathe at work.
Could it be bored out to 20700 since it’s full round?
2×20700 + xhp70.2?
My 2× 18350 M1 is drooling just thinking about it.
Yeah, I tried to make it for a 21700, I should of gone 20700, it might have worked. But seeing I had 2-30T’s I had to try. I actually cut the thread, but it was Tin Foil thick. The M1 is the biggest tube/head diameter wise I have come across for a 18650 light, I gave it a shot, but failed, well in that aspect! I might try the 20700, I have plenty of stock just not the time….. yet!
I love your grater. That is some really nice machining.
Hey Steve, coming from one of the best Tool Makers I have seen in a long time, that’s a heck of a compliment! Thank you very much!
I’m wanting to get back into it, tired of building CNC’s and Special machines, I really love turning handles, so for now small, simple and quick mech/mods keep me some what sane.
Ok, so that looks like you got your practice in, when is my grater X6 20700 tube coming?
Nice Kawi, really nice, glad to see you doing retrowork…
Oh, and for the record, you also need to make us some 21700 tubes for the GT mini, it’ll do 1711 lumens on the 30T straight out of the box. (measured, not speculation)
Ok, so that looks like you got your practice in, when is my grater X6 20700 tube coming?
Nice Kawi, really nice, glad to see you doing retrowork…
Oh, and for the record, you also need to make us some 21700 tubes for the GT mini, it’ll do 1711 lumens on the 30T straight out of the box. (measured, not speculation)
I got a spare piece of GRATER just in case I find something with a larger inside diameter. The M1 head I.D. measures 23mm so something around 25-26mm should be doable. I have a GT incoming, when…… who the heck knows??
Made a Nitecore TIP cover design and 3D printed it. It has raised edge around buttons to prevent accidental activation in pocket. It covers the micro USB port from dust. And it has a place for two magnets. Actually one enough to hold it in place.
“The saddest aspect of life right now is that science gathers knowledge faster than society gathers wisdom.” - Isaac Asimov
"With the first link, the chain is forged. The first speech censured...the first thought forbidden...the first freedom denied – chains us all, irrevocably."
Cool.
MecArmy SGN3 with lighted switch.
- LEDs & Other Stuff - - UI CheatSheets - - CRX Flashlight Builds - - CRX Stuff for Sale -
Those last two lights look awesome ^
The other week I cut the back end of the body on my swm and threaded on a new blank tail piece. Today I fitted a pocket clip. I didn’t thread the Ti for the screws as I feared breaking the tap off in the hole, so it there is a couple of small nuts on the other side. Have more planned… slowly slowly…
Take a torch to that clip!
For a blue colour..??
Yes
Meh, tried bluing half the light a while ago… http://www.candlepowerforums.com/vb/showthread.php?379603-I-cooked-my-SWM&p=4378817&viewfull=1
H17F modded to run 2 individually addressable leds.
The H17F has 24 brightness levels across all 3 channels as follows,
Step 1-15 PWM, 16 (constant). Channel 1(single amc7135) Active.
Step 17-21 PWM, 22 (constant) both CH 1 & 2(all 8 amc7135) Active.
Step 23 PWM, step 24 (constant) all amc7135 & FET Active.
So the mod is to remove the FET and install an additional amc7135 for the colored leds on channel 3.. but the problem is that when channel 3 is active.. channel 1 & 2 are also on, so the solution was to wire CH 1 & 2 signals thru 2 P mosfets separately, I cutoff the signal traces off the PCB as shown in the 1st picture, than I wired them from the MCU to the source pin of the P mosfets, from the p mosfets drain to the gates of CH1 & 2 amc7135 bank. Than I wired CH3 signal to the gates of both P mosfets & the gate of the additional amc7135 allocated to the colored leds, only problem is step 23 which is PWM driven not cabaple of fully shutting down both P mosfets even when tried using a low pass filter
Will be used for a triple build with 3 white + 3 colored xq-e
Steps 1-22 are normal modes white light, step 23 is both white and colored combined & step 24 is just the colored led.
Love your work pp.
Fady, I always liked a bit of black magic.
djozz quotes, "it came with chinese lettering that is chinese to me".
"My man mousehole needs one too"
old4570 said "I'm not an expert , so don't suffer from any such technical restrictions".
Old-Lumens. Highly admired and cherished member of Budget Light Forum. 11.5.2011 - 20.12.16. RIP.
MRsDNF, I updated my post to explain it a little better.
I got a new toy, I got a new toy!
My machined finish Convoy L2 is now making 2553 lumens from an XHP-35 E4 5700K HD emitter. Lovin it!
Edit: Oh, yeah, from a single 26650.
It pulled 2.08-2.15A at the emitter for 3 minutes, pulling the Shockli 26650 down from a fresh charge to 4.09V. Ran from 8.6 lumens to 2553 lumens, so while I loved the machined finish L2 before, now it’s just POIFECK!
Ok spill the beans. What boost driver are you testing??
What boost driver did I just kill, you mean?
I, uh, seem to have gotten ahold of some old instructions and made a bridge where no bridge was designed to be. Ooops! Maybe I can hot air reflow a component and bring it back to life, checking…
Yesterday I build a p60 drop-in for Surefire G2 (nitrolon) to replace its built-in engine which has only 120 lumens output.
Got materials from Fasttech:
- Blank drop-in
- Cree XP-L V5-2A 1186.05LM 5700-6000K LED Emitter
- 3000mA 3-mode driver
Sorry I don’t have the WIP photos but here are the results.
I do like the tint of this emitter, I call it “pure white”.
Blog: https://lumenzilla.com
Uh-oh. 3A in a plastic-body light? That poor LED’s gonna get heat-stroke in about a minute with nothing to wick away the heat.
I got a coupla NexTorch nylon-body lights, which come with a 1W LED drop-in, so that’s probably 350mA tops. I wouldn’t push a revamped module past 2W or so, and that only in “burst mode” (ie, get it over with quickly so the LED doesn’t burst).
Not to be Mr Glass Half-Empty, but…
09 F9 11 02 9D 74 E3 5B D8 41 56 C5 63 56 88 C0
@Lightbringer
Thanks for your concern, I thought about it too.
I found that the head is actually made from aluminium so hopefully it helps dissipate the heat. Although I also found that drop-in has more contact to the body than to its head. I also made precaution not to use this flashlight intensively (always carry several others for backups).
Blog: https://lumenzilla.com
Kewl, umm, so to speak. ;D
I forgot who pointed me (and blf in general) at the NexTorches, but he mentioned that it’s nice for camping, etc., when you’d want something that wouldn’t be cold metal in your hand in the middle of winter, etc., so I figured why not? And also to maybe keep one in the car or something and not have it wear off the ano by bouncing around. Just enough light to be useful changing a tire, poking around underneath things, etc.
But I left a 2.8A S2+ tailstanding for just a few minutes on high, and it pretty much turned into a curling iron. I grabbed’n‘dropped it so fast, and couldn’t even turn it off! Had to grab a shirt or whatever (been a while) just to grab hold of one end so I could bap the switch off on the other, and even after air-cooling a few minutes, it still was too hot to pick up, even two-fingers on the tailswitch, farthest away from the LED.
And that’s a pretty solid tube wicking away heat and spreading it around. So when I saw you were using a 3A driver in a drop-in in a plastic-tube light… well, I could visualise the plastic light melting like a Dali painting.
09 F9 11 02 9D 74 E3 5B D8 41 56 C5 63 56 88 C0
I can see Dali’s painting is aesthetic but not for a melting plastic from a flashlight
Blog: https://lumenzilla.com
I made a full round battery tube for my Quad M1 yesterday….“The GRATER”
EDC Tip…. Lightly shred some Romano cheese for your Chef Boyardee MEAT Ravioli’s when in the field!KB1428 “Live Life WOT”
Nice job Kawi, that looks great!
Could it be bored out to 20700 since it’s full round?
2×20700 + xhp70.2?
My 2× 18350 M1 is drooling just thinking about it.
Thanks V77! Looks better in person, when the light/sun hits those diamonds at a certain angle, wow! I cut the o-ring grooves today and put a slight polish to it too. I got a 26650 and a 32650 tubes I’m doing next. When I get the time, I did this in 1hr 15 minutes, so 2 1/2 hr. lunch breaks and a 15 minute morning break, I used the old lathe at work.
KB1428 “Live Life WOT”
Yeah, I tried to make it for a 21700, I should of gone 20700, it might have worked. But seeing I had 2-30T’s I had to try. I actually cut the thread, but it was Tin Foil thick. The M1 is the biggest tube/head diameter wise I have come across for a 18650 light, I gave it a shot, but failed, well in that aspect! I might try the 20700, I have plenty of stock just not the time….. yet!
KB1428 “Live Life WOT”
I love your grater. That is some really nice machining.
djozz quotes, "it came with chinese lettering that is chinese to me".
"My man mousehole needs one too"
old4570 said "I'm not an expert , so don't suffer from any such technical restrictions".
Old-Lumens. Highly admired and cherished member of Budget Light Forum. 11.5.2011 - 20.12.16. RIP.
I’m wanting to get back into it, tired of building CNC’s and Special machines, I really love turning handles, so for now small, simple and quick mech/mods keep me some what sane.
Somewhat?
KB1428 “Live Life WOT”
Ok, so that looks like you got your practice in, when is my grater X6 20700 tube coming?
Nice Kawi, really nice, glad to see you doing retrowork…
Oh, and for the record, you also need to make us some 21700 tubes for the GT mini, it’ll do 1711 lumens on the 30T straight out of the box.
(measured, not speculation)
I got a spare piece of GRATER just in case I find something with a larger inside diameter. The M1 head I.D. measures 23mm so something around 25-26mm should be doable. I have a GT incoming, when…… who the heck knows??
KB1428 “Live Life WOT”
Did you use some sort of formula with the knurling or just go for it?
djozz quotes, "it came with chinese lettering that is chinese to me".
"My man mousehole needs one too"
old4570 said "I'm not an expert , so don't suffer from any such technical restrictions".
Old-Lumens. Highly admired and cherished member of Budget Light Forum. 11.5.2011 - 20.12.16. RIP.
Looks real neat kawi
Made a Nitecore TIP cover design and 3D printed it. It has raised edge around buttons to prevent accidental activation in pocket. It covers the micro USB port from dust. And it has a place for two magnets. Actually one enough to hold it in place.
Reviews: Olight Seeker2 pro, Lumintop GlowI, Sofirn SP36, Convoy 4X18A, Convoy M21C, Brinyte SR8 Rescue Angel, Astrolux MF01 mini, Astrolux FT03S, YLP Sherp S15, Sofirn SP40, YLP Panda 3R and Unicorn, Armytek Prime C1 Pro, Acebeam M50, Imalent MS18, Convoy M3, Nitecore TIP2, Imalent RT70, Wuben T70, Sofirn SP32A, Thorfire VG15S, Thorfire VG10S, Thorfire TG06S
Mods: Imalent MS18 dedoming, Astrolux MF01-20K, Small sun T08 MT-G2, Eagle eye X6 triple XPL, Ultrafire F13 MT-G2, Convoy C8 XHP70, Solarstorm T3 triple XP-L HI
Big flashlight measurement and beamshot collection
3D printing stuff for flashlights
My flashlight related Instagram
My Flashlight related Youtube channel called Zozzlights
“The saddest aspect of life right now is that science gathers knowledge faster than society gathers wisdom.” - Isaac Asimov
"With the first link, the chain is forged. The first speech censured...the first thought forbidden...the first freedom denied – chains us all, irrevocably."
My reviews:
Sofirn SF36 /// Thorfire VG10S /// Sofirn C8F /// Zanflare F1
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