I finally got an emisar D4 with XPG2, and dedomed the emitters in warm gas. With a charged VTC5A I measured 30kcd at 15s. That is with stock springs. I really like the beam with the dedomed XPG2s.
I learned from bypassing the springs in the D1S that it is a real challenge to keep the spring assembly short enough to not crush the cell. I really appreciate the design of these lights keeping the size as small as possible, but it does make some modding more difficult. Anyway, I figure the stock springs are relatively low resistance.
There’s not much to be gained by bypassing Emisar springs. They were chosen to make that less relevant, by being low-resistance and compressing pretty much flat during use.
There’s not much to be gained by bypassing Emisar springs. They were chosen to make that less relevant, by being low-resistance and compressing pretty much flat during use.
Don’t forget you are talking to a forum of powerhungry flashlight enthusiasts. These springs have about 8 mOhms each. Cutting out nearly 16 mOhms would significantly reduce the total circuit resistance and would get some gains. But I think the design is an ok trade-off to get the smaller size.
I modded a friends S41, changed emitters to the W6 binned Samsung LH351D at 5000K, swapped the MOSFET for an Vishay-Dale SIR404DP, changed leads to 20ga Teflon coated, 22ga spring bypasses… with a new Nitecore 18350 it does 3232 lumens, on a Samsung 25S it pushes 4888 lumens!
I advised him on getting a pair of oven mitts to wear…
At a 20mV Vdroop at 6A, these springs have 3,33mOhm of resistance.
It’s absolutely amazing for a spring. Even mine are 10mOhm BeCu springs are nothing compared to them. Doing a spring bypass would just help lower resistance even further, but you will not get much in terms of % brightness boost, with a ton more heat.
At a 20mV Vdroop at 6A, these springs have 3,33mOhm of resistance.
It’s absolutely amazing for a spring. Even mine are 10mOhm BeCu springs are nothing compared to them. Doing a spring bypass would just help lower resistance even further, but you will not get much in terms of % brightness boost, with a ton more heat.
I measured close to 50mV at 6A, but maybe there was an error.
Remember though Blue, all things are a matter of perspective. If it’s not JUST the spring that is being changed, it may be an open doorway to another dimension. For example, what seems like a small gain on an emitter that is maxed out, swap to an emitter that can handle double or triple the current and suddenly that small gain becomes much larger. An example would be removing the current limited XM-L2 U4 and putting an SST-40 in it’s place. Or using an SBT-70 that can gobble up 20A all by itself… same 3V supply demand.
There’s not much to be gained by bypassing Emisar springs. They were chosen to make that less relevant, by being low-resistance and compressing pretty much flat during use.
Don’t forget you are talking to a forum of powerhungry flashlight enthusiasts. These springs have about 8 mOhms each. Cutting out nearly 16 mOhms would significantly reduce the total circuit resistance and would get some gains. But I think the design is an ok trade-off to get the smaller size.
How did you measure the springs? Pressed nearly flat against the bare pad at the center of the tail/driver PCB? If not then you may know the resistance of the springs, but you don’t understand the system.
It's not 8mOhms, it's even lower. At a 20mV Vdroop at 6A, these springs have 3,33mOhm of resistance. It's absolutely amazing for a spring. Even mine are 10mOhm BeCu springs are nothing compared to them. Doing a spring bypass would just help lower resistance even further, but you will not get much in terms of % brightness boost, with a ton more heat.
I tested few springs a while ago by using accurate 4-wire method, including IO short spring, and its resistance was 7,4mOhm :
@BlueSwordM
Yes the SBT-70 was a power drainer. Factory rating Vf 3,8V /10,5A. But could handle much more with propper cooling. And because of the round die perfect for Aspherics. I think it still has one of the nicest beam profiles in an aspheric light. I tryed to buy one when i really started with modding. But they were gone at that time.
The CBT-140 is still in the wild, big price to go with it’s big output numbers though. Probably the last round die, at least in “white”. There are SBT-70’s in green and blue.
In a Jaxman Z1, quality zoomie…
This was using a pre-focus aspheric that I built a holder for and had threaded in directly on top of the emitter.
I had also built a new solid copper pill to replace the brass one that came in the light.
Removed the glass window over the die as well, somehow I just love seeing that bridgework of 24 bond wires out in the open, in all it’s glory.
Love it so much I once took a stacked focus shot in macro to be able to see it clearly. lol
Edit: guess I have to spell it out…Pink Panda quoted me and commented on what I said, then stated “Be interested in seeing your attempt at masking Enderman”
There’s not much to be gained by bypassing Emisar springs. They were chosen to make that less relevant, by being low-resistance and compressing pretty much flat during use.
Don’t forget you are talking to a forum of powerhungry flashlight enthusiasts. These springs have about 8 mOhms each. Cutting out nearly 16 mOhms would significantly reduce the total circuit resistance and would get some gains. But I think the design is an ok trade-off to get the smaller size.
How did you measure the springs? Pressed nearly flat against the bare pad at the center of the tail/driver PCB? If not then you may know the resistance of the springs, but you don’t understand the system.
You are right, the resistance might go down when the spring is compressed. But maybe not by much since the spring doesn’t really touch itself upon compressing and the center shouldn’t actually touch the PCB.
The body tube on my D4s is ~70mm. My cell is 65mm long. That leaves 2.5mm for each spring. The spring wire is 1mm in diameter. I have a few extra Emisar springs I bought. When compressed to 2.5mm the electrical path isn’t the full spring length. There is contact between coils and it looks like there is more than one loop in contact at the battery end. It is a little hard to estimate the shortest path, though.
It looks to me like some tweaking the roundness and/or alignment of the coils could actually lead to better contact, by forcing the coils to slip against eachother as they are compressed and/or tipping a bit so that there are additional contacts and paths between spring, battery, and pcb.
Let the Build begin. Planning stage has ended.
This will be a 3 step project. Had to protect the head with some quilting batting and painters tape.
—
Think outside the box too long , cannot find your way back in.
Necessity is the mother of invention and the father is creativity.
Never give up, Never surrender. Make someone Smile today.
Tool is finnished so i do not scratch the head, lether cushions for the vise are glued together and cured and the new driver (from Lexel) is ready. So time to pop the H03 open. Have to get the heatgun ready first but then nothing will stop me. Wish me luck. Hope to get it open without doing any damage to the threads. Switch rubber and front glass/tir are removed. Tube is filled with a 19,5mm pipe to prevent it from squashing. I think there is nothing else i can do to prevent failure.
For the record, I have seen heavily glued threads remove the aluminum thread from a light leaving it stripped and impossible to reassemble, even with the use of a torch. Just saying… approach it carefully and take your time…
Oh, and watch for that to roll off to one side, careful not to scar up the head…
Edit… and watch for the tube to want to spin in the pads on your vice, the knurling may try to eat the leather and then get eaten by the vice. (Yes, I’ve seen a lot of things happen …)
I wanted to use my Proxxon Primus 100 but the smoth surface is not working with the leather pads. To slippery. Tomorrow i will install my big vice at the workbench (new thick beech board was delivered this week). And i glue the leather pads to some old Vice Jaws today and let it cure until tomorrow. The thread moved a little bit. But i do not like to have it slipping in the vise. To easy to scratch it this way. But with a little more grip and stability (no problem with the big vise srewed to the board) and enough heat and gentle approach it will work! Even with the small vise it was working. But to unsteady to be 100% sure to not scratch it if it slipps abruptly. I waited a long time for this light (everytime i wanted to order one in the last 2 years i saw something more interesting or something interfered) so i can wait another day.
But i really have to ask why they have to use threadlocker red (the nasty one). If they have to use it for sealing reasons please use the purple one (low strength). Keeps the light seald and you are not able to unscrew it with your hand. But with tools and heat its easy and you are not risking to strip the threads off the tube.
@Cereal_killer
The picture was taken bofore i removed the lens /tir. . . I actually added the mentioned nuts to make it more sturdy when i am applying preasure. And the head is secured well. No movement at all!
Only the lether was slipping on the smooth surface of the Primus 100 jaws. The jaws on the big vise are stamped. And i glued the lether onto some old vise jaws. There will be no slipping or twisting tomorrow. And aslong i get it above 150°C/302°F but not above 170°C/338°F i am good. (most threadlocker give up above 150°C/302°F but if you have the wrong Aluminium and HAIII Anodizing it could chip because of the different thermal expansion coefficient if it is getting to warm) So i use my hot air solderstation with the biggest nozel and set it to 160°C/320 and give it time to get to temperatur. You really can feel that the glue is getting softer. But this stuff is still a mess!
Didn’t like the tint of the Maeerxu M8 so I figured i’d replace it and bought the parts from mountain elec.
I finally got an emisar D4 with XPG2, and dedomed the emitters in warm gas. With a charged VTC5A I measured 30kcd at 15s. That is with stock springs. I really like the beam with the dedomed XPG2s.
I learned from bypassing the springs in the D1S that it is a real challenge to keep the spring assembly short enough to not crush the cell. I really appreciate the design of these lights keeping the size as small as possible, but it does make some modding more difficult. Anyway, I figure the stock springs are relatively low resistance.
There’s not much to be gained by bypassing Emisar springs. They were chosen to make that less relevant, by being low-resistance and compressing pretty much flat during use.
Don’t forget you are talking to a forum of powerhungry flashlight enthusiasts.
I modded a friends S41, changed emitters to the W6 binned Samsung LH351D at 5000K, swapped the MOSFET for an Vishay-Dale SIR404DP, changed leads to 20ga Teflon coated, 22ga spring bypasses… with a new Nitecore 18350 it does 3232 lumens, on a Samsung 25S it pushes 4888 lumens!
I advised him on getting a pair of oven mitts to wear…
It’s not 8mOhms, it’s even lower.
At a 20mV Vdroop at 6A, these springs have 3,33mOhm of resistance.
It’s absolutely amazing for a spring. Even mine are 10mOhm BeCu springs are nothing compared to them. Doing a spring bypass would just help lower resistance even further, but you will not get much in terms of % brightness boost, with a ton more heat.
My very own high current Beryllium Copper springs Gen 3:
http://budgetlightforum.com/node/67401
Liitokala Aliexpress Stores Battery Fraud: http://budgetlightforum.com/node/60547
I measured close to 50mV at 6A, but maybe there was an error.
I don’t know how to do those measurements, but I personally would be more interested in 16-20A instead of 6A.
Remember though Blue, all things are a matter of perspective. If it’s not JUST the spring that is being changed, it may be an open doorway to another dimension. For example, what seems like a small gain on an emitter that is maxed out, swap to an emitter that can handle double or triple the current and suddenly that small gain becomes much larger. An example would be removing the current limited XM-L2 U4 and putting an SST-40 in it’s place. Or using an SBT-70 that can gobble up 20A all by itself… same 3V supply demand.
An SBT70 can gobble up 20A at 3V?!
I only thought the CFT-90 could go up these insane currents at low voltages.
Also, that 6A is just a reference figure. And yeah, if you are pushing suddenly 18-20A, that 20mV becomes 60+mV.
My very own high current Beryllium Copper springs Gen 3:
http://budgetlightforum.com/node/67401
Liitokala Aliexpress Stores Battery Fraud: http://budgetlightforum.com/node/60547
How did you measure the springs? Pressed nearly flat against the bare pad at the center of the tail/driver PCB? If not then you may know the resistance of the springs, but you don’t understand the system.
I tested few springs a while ago by using accurate 4-wire method, including IO short spring, and its resistance was 7,4mOhm :
http://budgetlightforum.com/comment/1261133#comment-1261133
led4power.com
@BlueSwordM
Yes the SBT-70 was a power drainer. Factory rating Vf 3,8V /10,5A. But could handle much more with propper cooling. And because of the round die perfect for Aspherics. I think it still has one of the nicest beam profiles in an aspheric light. I tryed to buy one when i really started with modding. But they were gone at that time.
New WildTrail (former LuckySun) D80v2 Sale has Started http://budgetlightforum.com/node/66255
Yeh, I wish their were more alternatives with a round die
The CBT-140 is still in the wild, big price to go with it’s big output numbers though. Probably the last round die, at least in “white”. There are SBT-70’s in green and blue.
In a Jaxman Z1, quality zoomie…
This was using a pre-focus aspheric that I built a holder for and had threaded in directly on top of the emitter.
I had also built a new solid copper pill to replace the brass one that came in the light.
Removed the glass window over the die as well, somehow I just love seeing that bridgework of 24 bond wires out in the open, in all it’s glory.
Love it so much I once took a stacked focus shot in macro to be able to see it clearly.
lol
That looks amazing
Love the CBT140.
I still haven’t tried my method of making round LEDs by masking the top.
The OPTOFIRE - 4.63Mcd aspheric LED flashlight The SYNIOSBEAM - 10Mcd recoil LED flashlight List of the farthest throwing flashlights
yeh, at that price it can stay as elusive as a unicorn
Be interested in seeing your attempt at masking Enderman
Edit: guess I have to spell it out…Pink Panda quoted me and commented on what I said, then stated “Be interested in seeing your attempt at masking Enderman”
You are right, the resistance might go down when the spring is compressed. But maybe not by much since the spring doesn’t really touch itself upon compressing and the center shouldn’t actually touch the PCB.
The body tube on my D4s is ~70mm. My cell is 65mm long. That leaves 2.5mm for each spring. The spring wire is 1mm in diameter. I have a few extra Emisar springs I bought. When compressed to 2.5mm the electrical path isn’t the full spring length. There is contact between coils and it looks like there is more than one loop in contact at the battery end. It is a little hard to estimate the shortest path, though.
It looks to me like some tweaking the roundness and/or alignment of the coils could actually lead to better contact, by forcing the coils to slip against eachother as they are compressed and/or tipping a bit so that there are additional contacts and paths between spring, battery, and pcb.
Let the Build begin.
Planning stage has ended. 
This will be a 3 step project. Had to protect the head with some quilting batting and painters tape.
Think outside the box too long , cannot find your way back in.
Necessity is the mother of invention and the father is creativity.
Never give up, Never surrender. Make someone Smile today.
Tool is finnished so i do not scratch the head, lether cushions for the vise are glued together and cured and the new driver (from Lexel) is ready. So time to pop the H03 open. Have to get the heatgun ready first but then nothing will stop me. Wish me luck. Hope to get it open without doing any damage to the threads. Switch rubber and front glass/tir are removed. Tube is filled with a 19,5mm pipe to prevent it from squashing. I think there is nothing else i can do to prevent failure.
New WildTrail (former LuckySun) D80v2 Sale has Started http://budgetlightforum.com/node/66255
For the record, I have seen heavily glued threads remove the aluminum thread from a light leaving it stripped and impossible to reassemble, even with the use of a torch. Just saying… approach it carefully and take your time…
Good luck!
Oh, and watch for that to roll off to one side, careful not to scar up the head…
Edit… and watch for the tube to want to spin in the pads on your vice, the knurling may try to eat the leather and then get eaten by the vice. (Yes, I’ve seen a lot of things happen …)
I wanted to use my Proxxon Primus 100 but the smoth surface is not working with the leather pads. To slippery. Tomorrow i will install my big vice at the workbench (new thick beech board was delivered this week). And i glue the leather pads to some old Vice Jaws today and let it cure until tomorrow. The thread moved a little bit. But i do not like to have it slipping in the vise. To easy to scratch it this way. But with a little more grip and stability (no problem with the big vise srewed to the board) and enough heat and gentle approach it will work! Even with the small vise it was working. But to unsteady to be 100% sure to not scratch it if it slipps abruptly. I waited a long time for this light (everytime i wanted to order one in the last 2 years i saw something more interesting or something interfered) so i can wait another day.
But i really have to ask why they have to use threadlocker red (the nasty one). If they have to use it for sealing reasons please use the purple one (low strength). Keeps the light seald and you are not able to unscrew it with your hand. But with tools and heat its easy and you are not risking to strip the threads off the tube.
New WildTrail (former LuckySun) D80v2 Sale has Started http://budgetlightforum.com/node/66255
I would add a second and third nut inside the bars on the “handle” side so you can’t accidentally bend the bars when you apply force.
RIP SPC Joey Riley, KIA 11/24/14. Now I am become death, the destroyer of worlds.
Not a flashlight, but for a flashlight.
@Cereal_killer
The picture was taken bofore i removed the lens /tir. . . I actually added the mentioned nuts to make it more sturdy when i am applying preasure. And the head is secured well. No movement at all!
Only the lether was slipping on the smooth surface of the Primus 100 jaws. The jaws on the big vise are stamped. And i glued the lether onto some old vise jaws. There will be no slipping or twisting tomorrow. And aslong i get it above 150°C/302°F but not above 170°C/338°F i am good. (most threadlocker give up above 150°C/302°F but if you have the wrong Aluminium and HAIII Anodizing it could chip because of the different thermal expansion coefficient if it is getting to warm) So i use my hot air solderstation with the biggest nozel and set it to 160°C/320 and give it time to get to temperatur. You really can feel that the glue is getting softer. But this stuff is still a mess!
New WildTrail (former LuckySun) D80v2 Sale has Started http://budgetlightforum.com/node/66255
Put a XHP50.2 (4000K 80CRI J2) in a Jaxman M8 – OP reflector (mini C8)
With the 17mm MTN-BST2 boost driver I estimate about 1,950 lm
Good luck Docc!
Nice combination contactcr. I have a MiniC8 with a wrong mod, you remind me to do something nice with it.
link to djozz tests
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