What did you mod today?

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Chatika vas Paus
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Convoy BD06. Quad Luxeon V. LD-B4 9A driver. Blue GITD tape.


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Calaveras
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I was having issues with my Convoy S2+ (with biscotti) recently.  It was switching modes or not turning on.  I thought that maybe the switch or connection was bad. 

I bought a new soldering iron (TS80), but have never used one, so have been hesitant to try it.  This was a perfect excuse to practice by replacing a spring and seeing if I can fix it.  I replaced the original spring with a carbobronze spring. The soldering job was horrible, but it held. I may redo it, eventually.  I removed the front ring holding in the driver in order to replace that spring as well and noticed it was loose.  I tightened it back up and it solved my issue.  I am going to use it for a few days before messing with the spring on the driver, but it was my first mod/repair so I wanted to share.

 

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Calaveras wrote:
I was having issues with my Convoy S2+ (with biscotti) recently.  It was switching modes or not turning on.  I thought that maybe the switch or connection was bad.

I removed the front ring holding in the driver in order to replace that spring as well and noticed it was loose.  I tightened it back up and it solved my issue.
Yep, I had a similar issue with a Sofirn SP/SF/whatever light æons ago. Thought it was a wonky switch, too. Saw that the driver’s retaining ring was loose, snugged it up, worked perfectly ever since.

09 F9 11 02 9D 74 E3 5B D8 41 56 C5 63 56 88 C0

BlueSwordM
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@Calaveras, you need a flat tip to do most soldering jobs.

Here is one which will work well:
https://www.banggood.com/MINI-Original-Replacement-Solder-Tip-Soldering-...LCD-Soldering-Iron-p-1373556.html?rmmds=search&ID=557681&cur_warehouse=CN

A bit expensive, but totally worth it.

My very own high current Beryllium Copper springs Gen 3:
http://budgetlightforum.com/node/67401
Liitokala Aliexpress Stores Battery Fraud: http://budgetlightforum.com/node/60547

eas
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I agree that some sort of chisel tip is more useful for most soldering jobs. That iron is 18W, max? For a lot of flashlight stuff, I’d be looking at a high-power iron too. MCPCBs, springs and leads can pull away a lot of heat.

Calaveras
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@Bluesword
It comes with either the fine tip = TS-B02
or the chisel tip TS-D25 which I bought. I just checked and it is marked TS-D25 FR37
The picture cut off the end with formatting…

This is not a serious soldering station, but it should work for now. I liked the portability. I have a couple powerbanks that can power it. I do no like tools that sit forever on the table, but I may have to go that way in the future if I get serious

-X3-
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My TS80 is useful for some stuff, but for certain flashlight mods you’ll need a 60W soldering iron.

"-X3-, is there any place in your house without a flashlight ?" 

My Flashlight public album (mods, emitter swaps, eye candy)

My reviews channel (French language, Olight, Thorfire, Sofirn, Lumintop : 60+ lights tested)

My personal channel (including Olight SR mini, S1, S2, S1A and S-mini disassembly)

M4DM4X blog, saves you $$$ 

BlueSwordM
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Yeah. The TS80 works well on surfaces that wick heat away quickly, but not ones that can sink in a ton of heat, like springs and MCPCBs. It makes it hard to solder stuff quickly since they have high thermal mass.

There is one thing you should invest on though if you want to do mods like spring replacements, MCPCBs, etc. Hard stuff to do with a soldering iron, but really easy with the tool I am about to show you.

A hot air reflow station like this:
https://www.ebay.ca/itm/858D-SMD-110V-Hot-Air-Rework-Soldering-Station-for-SMD-SOIC-CHIP-QFP-PLCC-BGA/153083283502?ssPageName=STRK%3AMEBIDX%3AIT&_trksid=p2060353.m2749.l2649

My very own high current Beryllium Copper springs Gen 3:
http://budgetlightforum.com/node/67401
Liitokala Aliexpress Stores Battery Fraud: http://budgetlightforum.com/node/60547

DB Custom
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Chatika, I LIKE it! Smile Nicely done, and a nice light to choose as a host for that project! I took forever getting one and now have almost forgotten it…

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Warmed up one of my Wuben T046R lights with a triple emitter XP-L Hi U4 3000K 80+ CRI board from Mountain Electronics.


Agro
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Not sure about TS-80, but it’s predecessor is 60W.

eas
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I wasn’t sure either, that’s why I googled it before posting. Everything I founds said 9v, 2a.

g_damian
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Yesterday I put Luminus SST-20 J4 FB4 (4000K) in Reylight Pineapple.

Reflowed onto a bit crushed stock MPCPB:

The pill:

Stock 219C emitter was way above BBL in mine sample. This one (FB4) is as well, but not as much as the stock one. Quality of light is much better, very “soft” to eyes. Because of PWM design of the driver, tint shift with increasing drive current is not visible.

Also I upgraded the driver (back in August Facepalm ). Here is the picture of 2 drivers, both are stock, one is from older version (old clip design and no LVP).

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chadvone
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Put a reverse flush clicky in my Armytek Partner C1. Light now tail stands, Wizard clip for deep carry, grip tape for cold wet hands. Next step is a tail magnet.

DB Custom
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Built my big boy… 25,426.5 lumens at start, 22,700 at 30 seconds.

contactcr
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very nice! what emitters did you settle on? also, I assume your negative is a solid CU plate?

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You know the best thing about this mod?

It’s not even finished yet Smile

With 8 cells, you are going to push the emitters even harder.

He is perhaps going to get 30 000, or even slightly more with more cells Smile

My very own high current Beryllium Copper springs Gen 3:
http://budgetlightforum.com/node/67401
Liitokala Aliexpress Stores Battery Fraud: http://budgetlightforum.com/node/60547

DB Custom
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The tail end of the Q8 has a thick copper plate with dual Blue springs soldered on. No bypasses.
I have Noctigon Quad boards and a Maxtoch 25mm center board.
4 Samsung LH351D W6 5000K
4 Samsung LH351D U6 5000k 80 CRI
4 XP-L V3 HI, 2 ea of 1A and 3A
4 XP-L V6 HD, 2 ea of 1D and 3D
1 SST-40 dedomed and sealed from Richard

The HI’s and HD’s are on shared boards with the domeless emitters on the inside, tint’s oppose each other for mixing. The whiter W6 emitters are on the inside with the slightly warm higher CRI emitters on the outside. Tedious to layout and implement, managed to get one Samsung reversed and short a board and got one Samsung emitter poorly re-flowed, nada zilch sip solder on the positive contact. AND, something happened to the 7135 on the main driver and had the SST-40 on full time, that one required a complete disassembly, even removed the Slaves to get at the Master to swap in a new chip. Went ahead and removed the dual 12 ga copper ground posts and used a quarter inch copper rod instead.

Final tint is surprisingly just white, I haven’t noticed a tint or hue yet, of course it isn’t dark yet either.

Maybe now I can sleep without this crazy light build haunting my precious few brain cells! Lol

DB Custom
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Blue, I’ll ultimately be able to run 16 cells and have run time too!

BlueSwordM
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Wait.

At a conversvative 100lm/W(it is probably lower in real life), that means your light is consuming 250W+ at startup.

It is probably consuming more power, but you are pulling about 18A/cell.
That is a real monster.

And what do you mean brain cells?

If you only have a few of them, I can just say that yours are probably massive from all of the knowledge you built up over the years.

My very own high current Beryllium Copper springs Gen 3:
http://budgetlightforum.com/node/67401
Liitokala Aliexpress Stores Battery Fraud: http://budgetlightforum.com/node/60547

DB Custom
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When I was trying to estimate what all these emitters would output I was figuring they’d pull some 86A to get around 25,000 lumens. At a guesstimated 3.4V on the average, maybe a bit higher, yeah, it’s a lot of power. A scary lot of power! I was going to add in 4 Nichia 219C’s but the 106A resulting draw was probably going to be too much and in the end I left them out.

My wife and daughter bought me a T-Shirt on one of my birthdays, years ago, that reads “I Do Know It All, I Just Can’t Remember It All At The Same Time” And while knowing it all is a large stretch, the part about what I can remember of what I should know is spot on!

I don’t know what I’m doing. I get lucky a lot. Wink

Edit: When I built my Meteor M43 with 3 slaves to the one master, I got an actual at-emitter current draw reading of 58.8Amps from the 4 cells. That one has 12 Samsungs. So yeah, this one is seriously gobbling up some current!

DB Custom
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I put off getting a smart phone for a long time, but now I have a pretty new Apple i8, the camera is decent and I have an app to let me fully control it. That said, I thought I could step outside and get a quick beamshot without grabbing a coat and going the full camera tripod route. Maybe I was wrong. My phone doesn’t quite know what to make of this…

The white barn with the Flag flying at 610 yds distant is visible in the background, if you can get through the foreground. Silly

contactcr
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I mean I see room for 4× 10mm “mule” boards for 180 degree flood but I guess you did pretty good.

DB Custom
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I actually bought Carclo 10mm Optics to go with the Nichia’s I had but I needed the space for the wiring. I probably could have wired it differently, but still, didn’t want to piggyback them onto one of the existing 5 drivers and there wasn’t room for a 5th slave…

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@Dale, great light canon. More pic once you get that iPhone figured out Oops

————————-
My mod went the other way towards a tiny light.

I liked my new Olight i3T well enough to dedicate one of my last remaining Nichia 219BT SW45K R9080’s (but I apparently didn’t like it enough to leave it alone cool tinted; yes, I’m a tint snob Wink )

Here’s a peak at the inside, that’s a Philips LUXEON TX CW -

I replaced -

  • the Philips LED board with a copper MCPCB for the Nichia, and
  • the plastic lens (which got destroyed in the mod process) with a glass lens.

Now that’s it’s done, this simple 2-mode light has managed to ‘warm’ it’s way into my heart (beautiful neutral white) and into my pocket as an EDC!

Seeking the light.

DB Custom
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Excellent! Olights are typically well made but also typically lacking in the emitter dept. Nice upgrade!

SKV89
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pc_light wrote:

I replaced -
  • the Philips LED board with a copper MCPCB for the Nichia, and
  • the plastic lens (which got destroyed in the mod process) with a glass lens.

What size is the mcpcb? Was breaking the plastic lens unavoidable?

-X3-
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So you have to unscrew the bezel to get the LED, right ?

"-X3-, is there any place in your house without a flashlight ?" 

My Flashlight public album (mods, emitter swaps, eye candy)

My reviews channel (French language, Olight, Thorfire, Sofirn, Lumintop : 60+ lights tested)

My personal channel (including Olight SR mini, S1, S2, S1A and S-mini disassembly)

M4DM4X blog, saves you $$$ 

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