What did you mod today?

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pinkpanda3310
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Awesome mods Star Star Star Star Star Big Smile

 

xevious
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CRX wrote:

Green 40mm self powered glow cube XM-L2
USB rechargeable
160mAh Lipo cell
1×7135
Reverse clicky switch


Charged with 5000K LED:

Very cool! Reminds me of this:

This is STUNNING:

Hard to believe this was a vaping device! Looks like a curious Cool Fall Spy-007 variant. You should consider making a run of these.

gchart
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xevious wrote:
Reminds me of this:


What’s the funny looking thing on the desk? No, not the glowing cube. The grey thing with all of the buttons. Sick
BOO5TED
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gchart wrote:
xevious wrote:
Reminds me of this:
What’s the funny looking thing on the desk? No, not the glowing cube. The grey thing with all of the buttons. Sick

Isn’t that a fax machine?

"America has three cities, New York, San Francisco and New Orleans. Everywhere else is Cleveland."- Tennessee Williams

 

Lightbringer
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Naw, pretty sure it’s a copier. An ex-ee-rox, I think.

09 F9 11 02 9D 74 E3 5B D8 41 56 C5 63 56 88 C0

BOO5TED
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You got me, that’s got to be it.

"America has three cities, New York, San Francisco and New Orleans. Everywhere else is Cleveland."- Tennessee Williams

 

xevious
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gchart wrote:
xevious wrote:
Reminds me of this:

What’s the funny looking thing on the desk? No, not the glowing cube. The grey thing with all of the buttons. Sick
Actually, it’s just a touch tone multi-line office phone. Not a Xerox/copier. The back has a slot for holding papers… Back in the late 1960’s copiers / fax machines were much, MUCH larger.
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"America has three cities, New York, San Francisco and New Orleans. Everywhere else is Cleveland."- Tennessee Williams

 

G0OSE
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I finally finished my brass s2 clone triple – just waiting for the illuminated tail cap….




Marc E
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G0OSE wrote:
I finally finished my brass s2 clone triple – just waiting for the illuminated tail cap….
Wow!
How much current are you going to be running in that?
G0OSE
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Marc E wrote:
G0OSE wrote:
I finally finished my brass s2 clone triple – just waiting for the illuminated tail cap….
Wow!
How much current are you going to be running in that?

I have no idea – electronics is my weak point.. the driver is an A17dd as in the X6 – it’s powerful though and wipes out my fw3a totally when side by side. I thought the fw3a was more powerful, but it would ‘look’ not. Maybe it is on paper, I dunno lol (maybe it’s coz it’s slightly more focussed). I have the hi’s in my fw3a too!
pinkpanda3310
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Nice work GO0SE Thumbs Up

 

djozz
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Looks good. Since you use a lathe, maybe you can widen the bezel opening slightly (without compromising the slot for the o-ring) to get more light out.

G0OSE
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djozz wrote:
Looks good. Since you use a lathe, maybe you can widen the bezel opening slightly (without compromising the slot for the o-ring) to get more light out.

Now I discussed this……… I thought about ‘unholing’ the holes lol – as in rounding the bezel to the 3 circles/lenses.
CRX pointed out the o ring (which is kinda square and you can see in the pics) might pop out. I think he’s right. It would look funky, but you’d have to lose the ring – maybe silicone the optic in around top edge off the optic if waterproofing were a worry – but it could be done.
Still, I don’t think I’ll bother…….yet…..
I am looking to put goldish leds on the illuminated tailcap, and am getting some goldy/yellow gitd powder for a gasket.
I may get another one later and sell it/ them now I know what’s involved …. I’m kinda in love with this one now, it’s moved into my 3 faves….and because i made it, it’s all the better lol! (more so it works) Silly
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pinkpanda3310 wrote:
Nice work GO0SE Thumbs Up

Thank mate! Smile
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Wow. Some orsm mods and builds going on. Love the work guys. Thumbs Up Beer

 

djozz quotes, "it came with chinese lettering that is chinese to me".

                      "My man mousehole needs one too"

old4570 said "I'm not an expert , so don't suffer from any such technical restrictions".

Old-Lumens. Highly admired and cherished member of Budget Light Forum. 11.5.2011 - 20.12.16. RIP.

 

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djozz wrote:

Well done XXX-Man, a good old C8 mod! Smile


 


I swapped the led of my new Thrunite TH20 headlamp. I got the lamp for under 30 dollars in a Gearbest flash deal lately, well not that ‘flash’ because the link from the Gearbest deals thread up to now gives the discounted price Smile


 


I absolutely think it is the best head lamp you can get atm: it looks good (for a head lamp that is), it is small and lightweight, it feels very comfortable on the head,works on all AA-size cells, gives a good output and runtime even on an Eneloop cell, the tiny OP-reflector gives it a wide diffuse hotspot that is made for close-up work, great user interface with ramping and direct access to moon and high etc. etc.


 


I got the neutral white version but for a head lamp it was still too cool for my taste. I had a nice U5 7A3 80 CRI XP-L (3000K) from intl-outdoor sitting in the parts box for ages so that was to be the swap. The parts:



The white part is a bezel tool that I made from a plank holder. I made it because with my needlenose pliers I could not open up the bezel and even scratched it a bit Sad . This tool got it open nice and clean, there was no thread-lock, it was just screwed in tight.



There you go, here’s how the ledboard looks like, a dedicated little copper board that appeared to be DTP.



With the ledboard removed you can see that it sits on top of a groove that actually is the battery compartment, this is a tight design Smile . The thermal paste looks a lot like Arctic Silver.



I reflowed the new led and assembled the light without problems. and now the headlight emits a cosy warmish light that is to my liking, at high on a freshly charged Eneloop @30 seconds I measure 215 lumen (so a bit lower than stock), it is great for camping and reading books.


Stellar pictorial. Just swapped a sw40 R9080 into mine and it looks so much nicer than the low CRI “NW” XPL. A little spottier but that offsets the marginal decrease in lumens. Mine also had arctic silver thermal paste (or similar), though it is now replaced with arctic alumina…

e1000
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Finally got this one done. Dropped a 4000K 219C in a SPL-120. Unlocked the stock driver.

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e1000 wrote:
Finally got this one done. Dropped a 4000K 219C in a SPL-120. Unlocked the stock driver. !{width:100%}https://i.imgur.com/sHmWXdb.jpg![/quote]

Is the output noticably higher than before?

WTB Titanium 4sevens 2xAA tube

e1000
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id30209 wrote:

Is the output noticably higher than before?

It’s pretty significant, especially in the highest mode. I really hated the stock emitter.

KawiBoy1428
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e1000 wrote:
id30209 wrote:

Is the output noticably higher than before?

It’s pretty significant, especially in the highest mode. I really hated the stock emitter.


What pill was in it?

KB1428 “Live Life WOT

e1000
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The one on the right

KawiBoy1428
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e1000 wrote:
The one on the right

Cool the good one from my testing. I’m getting 589lm with just an emitter/board swap XP-L V4 3C tested on my T/A muakka tube.

.

Been removing the good drivers and putting them into the round mcpcb pills… Resistor modded a few… of the others.. just to play with..

KB1428 “Live Life WOT

e1000
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Wow, how did you get the potting out?! These things are built like tanks

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e1000 wrote:
Wow, how did you get the potting out?! These things are built like tanks

It’s a RTV silicone potting… I soak them in a very strong thinner. I take a small drill bit and by hand remove the silicone down to the driver contact board, the 2 holes opposite the lead holes are for filling/ venting the pill, remove the silicone from those 2 areas and soak in thinner. It takes time and patients but eventually the silicone breaks down enough to push the driver out. I used to hot air the spring contact board off, now I just soak them.

KB1428 “Live Life WOT

e1000
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KawiBoy1428 wrote:
It’s a RTV silicone potting… I soak them in a very strong thinner. I take a small drill bit and by hand remove the silicone down to the driver contact board, the 2 holes opposite the lead holes are for filling/ venting the pill, remove the silicone from those 2 areas and soak in thinner. It takes time and patients but eventually the silicone breaks down enough to push the driver out. I used to hot air the spring contact board off, now I just soak them.

You’re a better man than me, I know I’d get frustrated and mess that up.

I’d really like to do a brass bar 18350 conversion next, just trying to plan out how to do it

KawiBoy1428
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e1000 wrote:
KawiBoy1428 wrote:
It’s a RTV silicone potting… I soak them in a very strong thinner. I take a small drill bit and by hand remove the silicone down to the driver contact board, the 2 holes opposite the lead holes are for filling/ venting the pill, remove the silicone from those 2 areas and soak in thinner. It takes time and patients but eventually the silicone breaks down enough to push the driver out. I used to hot air the spring contact board off, now I just soak them.

You’re a better man than me, I know I’d get frustrated and mess that up.

I’d really like to do a brass bar 18350 conversion next, just trying to plan out how to do it


I made up some brass signal tubes for my FW3 shorty mods and machined the tubing smaller for the FW3/NovaTac mods. So I had 3-4 FW3 signal tubes left over. Now I’m out of brass tubing. But then I figured I would flap out the battery tube of the NovaTac which was about .005” and then I cut down the FW3 tube to fit. My Last FW3/NovaTac Triple using the FW3 driver and cut down signal tube…and clip..

KB1428 “Live Life WOT

e1000
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That looks awesome! Very cool

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e1000 wrote:
That looks awesome! Very cool

Thanks.. Thumbs Up

KB1428 “Live Life WOT

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KawiBoy1428 wrote:
e1000 wrote:
That looks awesome! Very cool
Thanks.. :THUMBS-UP:

 

What pill has SPL-120 if you have seen them? I wanna add one to my lab but i’m nit sure about the driver

WTB Titanium 4sevens 2xAA tube

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