What did you mod today?

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KawiBoy1428
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id30209 wrote:

KawiBoy1428 wrote:
e1000 wrote:
That looks awesome! Very cool
Thanks.. Thumbs Up

 


What pill has SPL-120 if you have seen them? I wanna add one to my lab but i’m nit sure about the driver


I have not seen any SPL-120’s just the SPA SPL-120’s and the 3 older ones I had with the SS Black bezel to me is the better ones of the SPA’s from my experience. I don’t know much about the other models.

Edit. Sorry.. I misread your question.. I had 120M locked in my head… I got a 120M coming.. a Black anodized with a clip.. my first… All my others have been in the weapon light kit SPA SPL-120’s.

KB1428 “Live Life WOT

CRX
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id30209 wrote:
What pill has SPL-120 if you have seen them? I wanna add one to my lab but i’m nit sure about the driver

I’ve modded a couple 120s, they can vary.

http://budgetlightforum.com/node/62987

id30209
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CRX wrote:
id30209 wrote:
What pill has SPL-120 if you have seen them? I wanna add one to my lab but i’m nit sure about the driver
I've modded a couple 120s, they can vary. http://budgetlightforum.com/node/62987[/quote]

Oh yeah, so anodized bezel ring has lower output than the model with black bezel ring. Bummer...

WTB Titanium 4sevens 2xAA tube

e1000
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Mine had the pill that has the skinny straight mcpcb opening.

I think the output is pretty good with the stock driver and an LED swap, it actually turned out better than I anticipated. Really happy with the light now.

id30209
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I agree on that. Novatac pills with HS opening just for a P4 emitter are the ones with most lumens after emitter swap.

Those with larger opening in the pill for emitter and mcpcb, those are the ones with less powerfull driver. 
I hope i’m right but as i read in Kawiboy and CRX posts, it seems it is like that.

WTB Titanium 4sevens 2xAA tube

e1000
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Anyone know a good place to buy a clip for these things?

KawiBoy1428
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e1000 wrote:
Anyone know a good place to buy a clip for these things?

I use a FW3 clip you just have to open up the I.D. a bit.. Ask Neal (neals gadgets) or Victor at Lumintop to hook you up.

KB1428 “Live Life WOT

e1000
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I’m an idiot, didn’t even think about that, thanks!

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buck91 wrote:
Just swapped a sw40 R9080 into mine and it looks so much nicer than the low CRI “NW” XPL. A little spottier but that offsets the marginal decrease in lumens. Mine also had arctic silver thermal paste (or similar), though it is now replaced with arctic alumina…
Must look amazing. I’m also very keen on the TH20. I picked mine up for $30 from the Thunite site when they had a sale. A BLF friend here swapped the emitter for me, with a Nichia 219B R9080 R9050 sw30 I supplied to him. It would be warmer than I normally go for, but wow… is it fabulous. Eyes adjust to it easily. Very reminiscent of incandescent. It’s under-powered with a basic AA Eneloop, but the main intention is close range task illumination & it does the job wonderfully. Good spill. Ramping is a touch slow, but I’d rather have that than too fast.
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jon_slider wrote:
Very nice tint. Your photo does a great job of capturing it. I’ve got a 219B 9080 9050 sw30 (3000k) in my TH20 and it looks very much like that.
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xevious wrote:
Your photo does a great job of capturing it.
Thank you for the encouraging words
The sw30 9080 is a fantastic LED, especially after sunset.

When Im daylight adapted I enjoy the sw45k option:

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Yesterday I got some “goodies” and made small mods.

Replaced a XP-L HI (4000K led on my FW1A for a Luxeon V2 4000K too.
The tint is not so much different, but I find it better than the XP-L HI.

Before (compared with a Nichia 5700K, on the right) > After (compared with a Nichia 5700K, on the right)

Comparison betweemn the 3 Luxeon V2 led (3000K, 4000K, 5000K)

—————-

I also moded my On The Road i3, through a “lego” with the battery tube with the On The Road M1.
Although there are differences in anodozing and knurling, the tubes fit well.
I used a 16650 (Sanyo UR16650ZTA, 3.7V 2500 mah) battery to put inside the “new” flashlight!
It uses a 15mm diameter driver, with Crescendo, and I am using a Samsung LH351D.
So far so good Wink


Compared with the FW3A and the FW1A (18500 version)

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MCM Underground Mechanical mods:

CRX Underground MCM Triple Nichia 219C 5000K - Lxl TA Driver - 18650 - Piston Drive E-Tail Sw - 2430lm.CRX Underground MCM Triple Nichia 219C 5000K - Lxl TA Driver - 18650 - Piston Drive E-Tail Sw - 2430lm.

 

CRX Underground MCM Nichia 219C 90CRI - C-MK 3A - 18350 - Rv Clicky Tail Sw - 600lm.CRX Underground MCM Nichia 219C 90CRI - C-MK 3A - 18350 - Rv Clicky Tail Sw - 600lm.

CRX MCM Undeground Mods

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Shocked Shocked Shocked
That is…WOW Shocked
And the “smoke” becomes light!!!
Looks awesome Wink

WillyD
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CRX, that is absolutely beautiful! I feel ignorant at the moment…so was that originally a vape? I need to know more. What did you fabricate yourself? What is used behind the lens on the triple? Need more info on the tailcap for the 18350 light Big Smile

KawiBoy1428
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CRX at first glance, I thought you made it out of Brass ESNA nut’s… I’m like damn I have some of those at work!

Very COOL! Big Smile Thumbs Up

KB1428 “Live Life WOT

CRX
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MascaratumB wrote:
Shocked Shocked Shocked
That is…WOW Shocked
And the “smoke” becomes light!!!
Looks awesome Wink
Smile Thumbs Up
WillyD wrote:
CRX, that is absolutely beautiful! I feel ignorant at the moment…so was that originally a vape? I need to know more. What did you fabricate yourself? What is used behind the lens on the triple? Need more info on the tailcap for the 18350 light Big Smile
There is a thread with more details
KawiBoy1428 wrote:
CRX at first glance, I thought you made it out of Brass ESNA nut’s… I’m like damn I have some of those at work!
Very COOL! Big Smile Thumbs Up
I usually use plumbing nuts Big Smile
e1000
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CRX: awesome work

Flashy Mike
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CRX wrote:

MCM Underground Mechanical mods:


Fantastic, love it! Looks so extraterrestrial …
xevious
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jon_slider wrote:
xevious wrote:
Your photo does a great job of capturing it.
Thank you for the encouraging words
The sw30 9080 is a fantastic LED, especially after sunset.

When Im daylight adapted I enjoy the sw45k option:

You’re welcome. Beer Actually, I made a mistake. My TH20 219B emitter is R9050 sw30. So it’s probably a touch warmer. Yes, I fully agree, the sw45 is also a great tint & would be my choice in brighter conditions. I bought 5 that are waiting to be implanted (thinking of using 3 on a triple, 1 on a single, and keep 1 for something later).
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K75 needed more run time.

K65 goes on the other end

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“Made” some programming keys Blushing and got Anduril working on a FT03.

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Added a FET driver to my Convoy L6 with XHP70.2 in 5000k, the 30mm 2S Momentary driver from MTN.
I love the spring bypass all the way through to the MCPCB Evil

Dam this thing gets hot, almost heats up like a FW3A…haha
Im running 2 x unprotected 5500mah Keeppower rated up to 15a.
This thing is a serious fire hazard. Doesnt look like ill be letting anyone else touch it and only pull it out to wow people i think.

I turned it on for the first time outside (just in case) and i could see the beam in the midday Australian direct sun, now thats some light.
Cant wait for the sun to go down now Sad

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xevious wrote:
My … 219B emitter is R9050 sw30. So it’s probably a touch warmer.

I like the SW30 9050 a lot.
It looks better to me than the 9080 in these single samples
they are very close, and things that affect the difference includes, how bright the light is, the type of reflector, and variations between LEDs.

I have not seen anything to suggest to me, in actual use, that the sw30 9080 is “better”. I think the variation between LEDs is a more dominant factor, than the CRI R9 of 50 vs 80

I was surprised. I expected the 9080 to kick ass and take no prisoners, but honestly, I would be just as happy, or happier, with the 9050, in this particular comparison.

the control shot surprised me (LEDs are not even close to sunlight, even at 9080):

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jon_slider wrote:

I like the SW30 9050 a lot.
It looks better to me than the 9080 in these single samples
they are very close, and things that affect the difference includes, how bright the light is, the type of reflector, and variations between LEDs.

I have not seen anything to suggest to me, in actual use, that the sw30 9080 is “better”. I think the variation between LEDs is a more dominant factor, than the CRI R9 of 50 vs 80

I was surprised. I expected the 9080 to kick ass and take no prisoners, but honestly, I would be just as happy, or happier, with the 9050, in this particular comparison.

the control shot surprised me (LEDs are not even close to sunlight, even at 9080):
![img]https://i.imgur.com/1ToAaZEl.png[/img]

Allot of things can be at play regarding the color appearance of daylight in a room not the least of which thought of is the glass. From Arch Lighting.

“Color By definition, the color of daylight is essentially perfect, with a color rendering index (CRI) of 100. However, almost every glazing system has a color characteristic, from very subtle hints of tint to strong variations of green, gray, bronze, aqua, and blue. Remember, just like any filter, the transmitted color is the opposite of the color that is most absorbed. Blue glass, for example, absorbs yellow light. While the color impact is often slight, a heavily tinted glass will cause the perceived color of daylight to change considerably, reducing the CRI of daylight considerably. For example, some green-glass systems have a CRI of 60, about as poor as old-fashioned “cool white” fluorescent.”

Also, higher efficiency glass cuts off a portion of the red end of the spectrum near the infra-red. It helps to explain why, in the Mandalay Bay hotel, why everything in the rooms has a strong green cast, it’s in the glazing. Other factors are also at play like that affect the color temperature of daylight like the time of day the picture was taken, prevailing weather conditions, and latitude. Then, what’s the white balance?

jon_slider
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yes, lots of variables
that is why I post multiple photos, to compare to each other,
in the same setting of variables

Im not even saying that the photos look exactly like what my brain says Im seeing. That is a fools errand. So I just post photos to compare to each other. I think that helps eliminate some of the variables and gives a reasonable basis for Comparing one sw30 9050, to one sw30 9080.

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Did you measure the LEDs to verify they are actually 9050 and 9080?

jon_slider
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hodor wrote:
Did you measure the LEDs to verify they are actually 9050 and 9080?

Im sure they are what I said they are

sent you a pm w more details, so as not to hijack this thread,
any more than I already have.. lol

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I put a royal blue G3 in a C8 just for funsies.

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