What did you mod today?

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Scallywag
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gchart wrote:
Ever have a mod not go quite according to plan? Yeah, I’m having one of those nights Tired

I designed an aux board for the Wuben TO50R, which was my Peoples Choice Award prize in this year’s Old Lumens contest. The PCBs finally came in today. I built one up and it bench tested perfectly. Since I can’t reasonably reprogram the driver to control the aux board, I figured I’d use a JFET to turn the aux board off while the main LEDs are lit. Once voltage is detected at the gate pin of the JFET (wired to the main LED+), it would pinch off the ground connection of the aux board. Slick. And it worked great on the bench. Oh yeah, and it’s current controlled (3.0V LDO) and low voltage protected (a 2.93V reset monitor).

Well… when installed in the TO50R, apparently there’s always 5+ volts at the LED+ pad, its just a super low current that won’t turn on the LEDs. So my fancy new aux board wouldn’t light up until I disconnected the JFET and relegated it to being always-on. Bummer.

And then when I got it fully reassembled, I realized that I lost my moonlight mode. The flashlight thinks it’s on and in moonlight mode, but it doesn’t actually light up. It must have to do with where I tapped in to steal current for the aux board. The TO50R must be sensing/controlling current there. So hopefully I can remedy this aspect… I just need to take it all apart and find a new spot to steal battery voltage from. That’ll have to be another day.

Behold… the monstrosity of the TO50R driver. Triple stacked!

New aux board, fresh off the bench test

Selected placement of the aux+ connection (white wire)

Installed

First light

Behind the optic… thankfully, looks pretty good. At least I had one win for the night.

It’s a fun trek, but lots of stones on this path Sad


I knew the TO50R had quite the driver, as it was a high-output quad without our simple FET approach, but didn’t really know any details about it.

What a monster. I want one even more. But I don’t know if my budget will ever overlap its price point.

MascaratumB
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It seems that Wuben has great and well structured drivers! Crown
This is Tom E’s photo of the T70 driver:
Posted here: http://budgetlightforum.com/comment/1517499#comment-1517499

BTW, gchart, when I got my first TO50R sample for review, I had some “electronic” problem that after turning it on in Turbo 2 or 3 times, it stopped working on the Turbo level, I could only cycle between some modes (ML-L-M-L-ML – yeah, it was acting weird too!).
I sent it to Wuben again, to China, and they sent me another one! Jelina later referred that there was an hardware problem.

I do hope you can manage to make it work again, fully, and with those extra leds Wink It looks great! Thumbs Up

Unheard
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It’s a Wuben E05-I (TLF-version with much improved UI and Samsung LED). The 5000K LED was too greenish, so I decided to implant a 2700K LH351D. Hestitated a long time since this is or was a collectors item. My good taste won eventually.

Smile, you cannot kill them all.

MascaratumB
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Unheard wrote:

It’s a Wuben E05-I (TLF-version with much improved UI and Samsung LED). The 5000K LED was too greenish, so I decided to implant a 2700K LH351D. Hestitated a long time since this is or was a collectors item. My good taste won eventually.


You got one of those Shocked
I saw them on selected-lights but never ordered! The UI is better than the regular version, I am sorry that that version was never “implemented” in larger scale! Oops
Better tint now Wink
Geuzzz
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Unheard wrote:

It’s a Wuben E05-I (TLF-version with much improved UI and Samsung LED). The 5000K LED was too greenish, so I decided to implant a 2700K LH351D. Hestitated a long time since this is or was a collectors item. My good taste won eventually.

Good taste indeed!

Unheard
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Thank you, guys Blushing

This light is often offered in the sales section of the TLF. Just in case anyone is looking for it desperately.

Smile, you cannot kill them all.

e1000
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wow very cool gchart!

skinny_tie
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I decided to try an ammonia forced patina on my copper Olight i3t.

It was a spur of the moment decision after I absent-mindedly rubbed it with a rust eraser and wasn’t happy about the bright patch. I definitely could have done a better job with five minutes of prior research and preparation, but in the end I didn’t mind the result.

More photos of the process here: https://imgur.com/gallery/HL8k5ph

Yokiamy
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I think its cool, and if you dont like it, just polish it.

TrueRMS
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First [light] mod at the new place! WF2 in a BLF D80 V2. This is on my barn varmint gun. I’m super happy with throw, it’s doing 128kcd but I have no way to measure lumen output. No centering ring for proper focus, just 2 layers of kapton for electrical isolation.

I’ve got more of the WF2’s, gonna toss one in the X6 on that 9mm Camp carbine, it’ll serve as the garage varmint gun (cause I’d rather not shoot 5.56 in the garage / next to the house). I’ll be happy if I get 90-100kcd from the X6 when I can get some spare time to swap it.

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TrueRMS, nice job with the WF2, looks centered to me. Looking forward to seeing some beamshot in the X6, I don’t have “flats” in any light yet.

———————-

My mod today, an Olight i5T.

I like and carried the Olight i3T since it first released, so I was excited when the i5T was announced and picked one up during the first Olight Covid-19 charity drive. It was pretty much what I expected, a larger longer running AA version of the simply forward tail-clicky 2-level i3T, nice. The only thing detracting from this excellent light was the green tint-shift, so I decided to tackle an emitter swap.

I replaced the original cool Osram P9 emitter, which is a nice clean/cool white tint by itself (when viewed without the optic/lens in place) but as mounted in the i5T with the optic, suffers from green tint-shift. Perhaps it was an action-reaction thing with the cool white because I decided go in the opposite direction with a warm LH351D 2700K emitter for this reflow.

On the photo left is the view of the inside of the i5T with plastic lens and optic removed. The lens is press-fit so there’s no easy way to gain access without sacrificing the lens to get at the emitter inside. Similar to the i3T, Olight once again used a wireless post-through-the-MCPCB method of mounting. Clean looking but tricky to re-work.

On the photo right is the final light with warm LH351D installed. I salvaged the lens the best I could with repairs using optical epoxy. I have a glass replacement lens on order and will replace it later.

This was my first installation of such a warm emitter. For those desiring incan-like color temperature, the LH351D did not disappoint. Here is a comparison of the 2700K LH351D (on the left) with a real Surefire incan P-61 (on right); a 5000K neutral is on the bottom between the two for reference. The wider hotspot from the optic gives the illusion of the beam being slightly warmer/more orange than the focused incan hotspot. Frankly I found it a little too warm and may opt for something in the 3-4.5K range when I replace the glass.

Seeking the light.

gchart
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gchart wrote:

And then when I got it fully reassembled, I realized that I lost my moonlight mode. The flashlight thinks it’s on and in moonlight mode, but it doesn’t actually light up.


(Continuation from post 9028) Eureka! So, the TO50R driver must have been monitoring current where I had tapped into the ground. I found a true ground connection and now moonlight works again!
Unheard
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Congrats. Really nice, I wish I could do this kind of magic. And thanks for showing the innards. Maybe that justifies the breathtakening prices Wuben takes.

Smile, you cannot kill them all.

gchart
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Agreed. At first I thought Wuben’s prices were nuts. But that driver really shows that they’re not messing around. They have been in business for almost 40 years which is pretty respectable for a Chinese flashlight company. They’ve certainly got experience.

skinny_tie
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pc_light wrote:
My mod today, an Olight i5T.

Nice work pc_light. I’d like to do the same but I’ve never been game to crack open an Olight before.

Do you have any more photos of the process, and could you post a link to the replacement lens?

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skinny_tie wrote:
Nice work pc_light. I’d like to do the same but I’ve never been game to crack open an Olight before.

Do you have any more photos of the process, and could you post a link to the replacement lens?

I didn’t take any in-process photos, I just dove in not sure what I would run into. Before I realized it, I was done.

I can describe the process. I drilled two tiny holes into the plastic lens on opposite edge/sides about 1mm deep. Then used some fine nosed tweezers to work the lens off. I used dual holes in case I needed to twist but as the lens wasn’t glued, perhaps a single hole would have been fine. In any event plan on replacing the lens when done, it’s soft plastic and would be impossible to extract without damage.

The lens measures about 0.8mm thick by about 15.7mm diameter. I ordered from ebay. The sizes available were 15.5 and 16 mm and I ordered the 16 thinking I could sand it down. If I were to re-order I would get the 15.5mm to eliminate the need to sand and simple fill any difference with adhesive (duh), We’ll see when the lens gets here if its worth the effort to reduce, otherwise I may re-order the 15.5mm.

The i5T is currently in active pocket rotation and the warm tint is great for night time use but I’ve decided I might like 3-4K better.

edit:
—————-
Follow-up. I had to sand the glass down to 15.5mm for fit, but in the end during install I still managed to crack the glass. Because of press fit I’m convinced that only a plastic lens will work.

Seeking the light.

MascaratumB
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After weeks (months) waiting for some things to arrive (a pack from Simon, at Convoy, and a pack from kiriba-ru), they arrived last friday.
So, I started working right away.

First thing I did was to finish a mod that I started and that went wrong some time ago: turn my Blitzwolf BW-ET1 into a 2×14500 flashlight with Anduril and 6V XHP50.2.
The story stared here and didn’t go well, as the LED burned (I didn’t use DTP MCPCB by that time).
Now, I ordered some 16mm DTP MCPCB*s from Simon and reflowed a *5000K H4-3A XHP50.2 (also from Simon) into one.
This was the final driver structure:

As for the LED, althouh I didn’t take photos the reflow and final soldering , I used a filed 16 × 1.5 mm old copper DTP MCPCB to help on heatsink. I put thermal paste + copper + thermal paste + MCPCB w/ the XHP50.2. I used a 5050 gasket and an+ OP reflector from the On The Road M1+ (I prefered the OP due to the tint shift that the original SMO reflector would aggravate even more).

I didn’t take beamshot, but it has – obviously – a shift in the beam Tired . I will get a 3000K led to fit there Cool
Now I just need to get some longer button top 14500 cells to fit well, as the 2 button top I have are small (Sofirn 14500 900mAh) Beer

——————————————————-

I also received a Convoy S6 +host from Simon and a S2/S6 +triple spacer from kiriba-ru!
So, I joined these with the 17mm driver with Bistro HD OTSM from Lexel and the triple aluramic MCPCB with 3 x Luxeon V 4000K 70 CRI from led4power (that I picked as prize from the OL Contest 2019 Crown ) and a aqua blue GITD gasket from CRX, and put this together Love Love Love

I only feel sorry (meaning: pissed off Facepalm ) because I thought I could do a 18350 S6 as seen here and here with an Astrolux shorty tube, but it didn’t fit in the tail of the S6 Tired
Actually, the tail of the S6 didn’t fit in any of the other Convoys I have. The head, however, and fortunately, fits in the 18350 tubes from the S2+ Party Meaning:I’m not pissed off anymore Innocent

The clip is a regular “screw-in” pocket clip and was “flamed” to become more blue Cool

BTW, the spring mod was inspired in this thread/post from Bocian Thumbs Up

BTW, this is a HOT rod!!! My go-to hot rod Evil Cool
(I’ve calibrated the temperature already, otherwise I’d burn my hands Silly )

gchart
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Nice work MB!

gchart
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Today’s mod is a work-in-progress.

I wanted to (1) test out my PIC to Attiny816 board and (2) get the recently ported Anduril for the AVR 1-series into an actual flashlight.

So I tried fitting it all together into a spare SC31B I had sitting around. I’m 90% there. I have 2 outstanding things that need addressed:

  1. It seems like the MCU power is routed through a 3.0 volt LDO for some reason. So I can tell when voltage is getting really low but I can’t actually get a voltage reading before that. I think I’m going to try and find the LDO and bypass it.
  2. The SC31B has USB charging and the status LEDs are controlled by the MCU. So I need to customize Anduril to properly react to USB charging status.

Sorry for the crappy soldering job, some of these close-quarters mods are frustrating and tedious.

To be continued…

tillylamp
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i burned out the driver in my nitecore mh41 and since the led was damaged i ordered the cheapest xhp50 and driver combo i could find.i was posted the 5 mode driver though iirc i ordered the 3 mode. the damn thing changes mode whenever its powered on though. here’s a link if anyone has any experience with it. i’d love to disable the strobe if i could.
https://www.aliexpress.com/item/32975900309.html

MascaratumB
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gchart wrote:
Nice work MB!

Thanks gchart Wink And…I don’t know what kind of black magic you’ll be doing there, but it sound fun Wink
I damaged a driver from the SP32A and I may try to mess with it some time, but not in that way (as I wouldn’t know how to do it Oops )

tillylamp wrote:
i burned out the driver in my nitecore mh41 and since the led was damaged i ordered the cheapest xhp50 and driver combo i could find.i was posted the 5 mode driver though iirc i ordered the 3 mode. the damn thing changes mode whenever its powered on though. here’s a link if anyone has any experience with it. i’d love to disable the strobe if i could.
https://www.aliexpress.com/item/32975900309.html

I don’t have any experience with that flashlight or the driver you linked, but…I wouldn’t put much trust on it!
There’s are some store that seem to have nice drivers, with better user interfaces:
https://mantaraylights.aliexpress.com/store/113294/search?SearchText=driver
https://www.aliexpress.com/store/708513/search?SearchText=driver
https://convoy.aliexpress.com/store/330416/search?SearchText=driver

I would rely more on the quality of these stores Thumbs Up
Or you can ask Lexel to make you a driver. Not as cheap as the combo one you managed to get, but certainly more reliable and with much better UIs Thumbs Up

xevious
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MascaratumB wrote:
After weeks (months) waiting for some things to arrive (a pack from Simon, at Convoy, and a pack from kiriba-ru), they arrived last friday. So, I started working right away.



Looks amazing. Great work, MB! Thumbs Up
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MascaratumB wrote:
gchart wrote:
Nice work MB!

Thanks gchart Wink And…I don’t know what kind of black magic you’ll be doing there, but it sound fun Wink
I damaged a driver from the SP32A and I may try to mess with it some time, but not in that way (as I wouldn’t know how to do it Oops )

tillylamp wrote:
i burned out the driver in my nitecore mh41 and since the led was damaged i ordered the cheapest xhp50 and driver combo i could find.i was posted the 5 mode driver though iirc i ordered the 3 mode. the damn thing changes mode whenever its powered on though. here’s a link if anyone has any experience with it. i’d love to disable the strobe if i could.
https://www.aliexpress.com/item/32975900309.html

I don’t have any experience with that flashlight or the driver you linked, but…I wouldn’t put much trust on it!
There’s are some store that seem to have nice drivers, with better user interfaces:
https://mantaraylights.aliexpress.com/store/113294/search?SearchText=driver
https://www.aliexpress.com/store/708513/search?SearchText=driver
https://convoy.aliexpress.com/store/330416/search?SearchText=driver

I would rely more on the quality of these stores Thumbs Up
Or you can ask Lexel to make you a driver. Not as cheap as the combo one you managed to get, but certainly more reliable and with much better UIs Thumbs Up


thanks for the links, but i think i’ll wear out my driver first.
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Oh man, I’m so happy! Today after two years of lurking here I did my first mod! It’s nothing really complex, just an old s2+, a copper pill from kiriba-ru and an A17-dd driver.The reason I’m so happy is that it all went well and I FINALLY have a flashlight with moon mode!!!Now I get it guys, why you go to such lengths to mod your flashlights, this was such a satisfying experience!!! Now on to mod everything I got!!!!

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And that’s the power of BLF and mod friendly hosts such as Convoy, and off course, your own input

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Congrats on the milestone Weird_Beard. Now prepare yourself for a life of poverty buying modding goods. Silly

 

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gchart
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Weird_Beard wrote:
Oh man, I’m so happy! … Now on to mod everything I got!!!!

Well done! This is where the addiction gets real. A tool for this, parts for this… some builds you may never get around to. Facepalm Never look back.
gchart
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gchart wrote:
Today’s mod is a work-in-progress.

I wanted to (1) test out my PIC to Attiny816 board and (2) get the recently ported Anduril for the AVR 1-series into an actual flashlight.

So I tried fitting it all together into a spare SC31B I had sitting around. I’m 90% there. I have 2 outstanding things that need addressed:

  1. It seems like the MCU power is routed through a 3.0 volt LDO for some reason. So I can tell when voltage is getting really low but I can’t actually get a voltage reading before that. I think I’m going to try and find the LDO and bypass it.
  2. The SC31B has USB charging and the status LEDs are controlled by the MCU. So I need to customize Anduril to properly react to USB charging status.

Sorry for the crappy soldering job, some of these close-quarters mods are frustrating and tedious.

To be continued…


And… complete! I did get Anduril modded with a USB charge indicator function (specific to the SC31B, I’m sure it would vary for other lights).

Interesting mod, but I don’t think I’ll be doing this one again:

  • The bezel of the SC31B is glued tight. I had to use heat and channel-locks to open her up.
  • The driver is glued in. Careful tapping with a wooden dowel popped it out.
  • That adapter board is a bit of a PITA. An update board with some lessons-learned may help, but its not a walk in the park.
  • I did find an LDO that I needed to remove/bypass so I could read voltage at the MCU.

Overall, an interesting project. But I think my other SC31B will stay un-modded for now. Too many other projects to jack around with doing this one again soon.

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Thank you guys!!!I can’t even describe how much you ‘ve inspired over these two past years!I ‘ve read almost every review/mod/comparison you put out on this forum!

yokiami I've got a skillhunt M150 in my shopping cart because of you! MRsDNF I wish my motorcycle could get a led treatment from you! Wink
@gchart Because of you I ordered an sp40 and an sc31b last week!!!Can’t wait to mod them!

Keep up the good work!There are lots of people inspired by your work!!!

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Weird_Beard wrote:

Nice work and welcome!! Be warned though. The ‘budget’ in BLF is actually an element of foreshadowing. Meaning after you join, you’ll NEED to budget. HA

Also, it looks like that mod could use a DTP mcpcb to really extract the most out of the build.

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