What did you mod today?

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gchart
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It’s times like this that I’m glad I’m colorblind and needn’t concern myself with things like DUV. Wink

hmm… I think that’s the first time in my life I’ve claimed to be thankful for being colorblind

JaredM
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I have a 4000k FW3A with an eliptical carclo and a Lee -green (not sure which) as a bicycle light and I gotta say it’s very pleasing to the eye. Very balanced colors and good saturation.

contactcr
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I think shaving or filters would be one thing but both, idk. Couldn’t you have just left the dome on and applied a slightly higher filter?

Knowing that you did both it really would benefit to know: output and kcd with dome on, shaved, and shaved+filter to see what tradeoffs you made.

Danthemanz
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I never intended to add a filter, it was just a test. I don’t like using them, but sometimes they just fix a green problem and make something perfect.
It could even be an 805 which is minor.

Shaving and filters are very different things. Filters have MUCH less effect and most importantly, take 10 seconds to install or remove by hand.

Without the dome the difference in throw is quite amazing, not to mention the cct and tint changes. Throw changes make it more like a Osram flat white than say a Nichia.
There is an output drop for sure so a multi is nice.

I don’t have a lumen tube but I might be able to do some lux measurements when I do the single 3500k.

The purpose of this light was a high cri throwy triple with usb charging.
Its proven quite a fun light to walk around the house at night lighting up coloured things with an explosion of saturation Big Smile

More of the emitters finally arrived so I’ve got more things to do. I want something with a much higher drive and no filter ideally, hopefully a multi.
Probably also a fw3a with the new lume1 buck/boost driver to improve efficiency.

Danthemanz
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gchart wrote:
It’s times like this that I’m glad I’m colorblind and needn’t concern myself with things like DUV. Wink

hmm… I think that’s the first time in my life I’ve claimed to be thankful for being colorblind

I’d never thought about that.
Out of interest, what do you see in cct changes? Surely 6500k and 2700k still look very different to you thought right? Do you not see tint at all?

gchart
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CCT, in general, yes. I can’t tell that a 6500K is particularly blue, purple, or green. But I can tell that when I turn it on in a dark room vs a 4000K light that it is stark and bothersome. But I’ve NEVER looked at a beam and been like “ugh, such green!” (or even “man, look at how this 95-CRI YUJI makes the colors pop!”)

Danthemanz
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A bless and a curse indeed!

gchart
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Yeah. I just received the Wuben E19UV light and thought it was a really cool shade of blue until my wife had to ruin it for me and inform me that flashlight is in fact purple.

Danthemanz
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Haha, don’t let anyone else’s opinion change what you like! While it’s fun to impress others, what you like is all that matters!

Hugs collection of warm/pink lights
For all I know my eyes are wrong too, but I like what I like.

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gchart wrote:
Yeah. I just received the Wuben E19UV light and thought it was a really cool shade of blue until my wife had to ruin it for me and inform me that flashlight is in fact purple.

Sounds like a matter of opinion, I’m with you, its blue. Wink
CRX
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Lumintop Tool AA 2.0 Ti XP-L HI 5A3 – Lxl Anduril – 14500 – Piston Drive – 1050lm.
Lumintop Tool AA 2.0 Ti XP-L HI 5A3 - Lxl Anduril - 14500 - Piston Drive - 1050lm.

contactcr
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Really cool mod. It’s like it addresses every aspect of the Tool I dont like and changes it to something amazing.

CRX
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Thanks, yes it is much better now Thumbs Up

CRX 16340 Copper Zoomie CSLNM1.TG – CMK – 16340 – RV Clicky Tail Sw – 445lm.
CRX 16340 Copper Zoomie CSLNM1.TG - CMK - 16340 - RV Clicky Tail Sw - 445lm.

id30209
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Wow. 
CRX is at it againcool

 

WTB Titanium 4sevens 2xAA tube

CRX
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CRX Atom Ti Zoomie CSLPM1.TG – LD-A4 6A – 18350 – Lighted Clicky Tail Sw – 820lm, 432lm, 369m.
CRX Atom Ti Zoomie CSLPM1.TG – LD-A4 6A – 18350 – Lighted Clicky Tail Sw – 820lm, 432lm, 369m.

id30209
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Shait...

I have dozen of Atoms just waiting for some love

WTB Titanium 4sevens 2xAA tube

contactcr
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Tiny AAA modded to shaved LH351D 5000K

Heat bezel to break glue, pliers + mouse pad to unscrew.

Reflow 219B, get polarity wrong cause XP-G2 confuses me.

Reflow 219B again (pre-heater + hot air + kapton tape stuffed in the bottom).

Discover tons of artifacts in beam. Undo glow tape again.

Reflow sliced LH351D.



On The Road Z821, 3rd LED change for this guy.

Now has CULPM1 “Boost HX” 64 – 70 kcd depending on driver setting. Done with this one, good enough.

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Some great looking mods and posts CRX! Love

I’d rather use my flashlight around the house than turn on the lights.

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Added FW3A clips to a couple Emisar D4.


(I apologize for the blurry second picture. I held my phone too close when taking the picture)

I really like the FW3A clip. It slips easily onto pockets and is very low-profile and comfortable.

The FW3A clip slips perfectly onto the D4v2 18500 tube. However, the threads on the D4v2 18650 tube and the original D4 tubes are just a tiny bit too wide. The clip won’t slip past the threads.

However, I noticed that it was really close. And while the clips did not slip past the threads when inserted straight, I could actually screw them onto the threads. In this way the clip travels through to the other side of the threads and can be used normally.

This was a very simple and easy to do mod. However, a couple other things were needed:

  • Before screwing in the clip, remove the tail o-ring from the body tube. Replace it on top of the clip after the clip is isntalled.
  • The clip has some thickness and will prevent the tailcap from screwing all the way down. It was necessary to add a spacer at the bottom of the tailcap to allow electrical connection. A thin copper washer or bit of sheet metal cut into the shape of a washer worked.

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NeutralFan wrote:
Some great looking mods and posts CRX! Love

This. Thumbs Up

 

djozz quotes, "it came with chinese lettering that is chinese to me".

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old4570 said "I'm not an expert , so don't suffer from any such technical restrictions".

Old-Lumens. Highly admired and cherished member of Budget Light Forum. 11.5.2011 - 20.12.16. RIP.

 

jon_slider
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contactcr wrote:

congrats on a difficult sounding mod

how do you reflow to that board?

contactcr
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jon_slider wrote:
how do you reflow to that board?

I cut 2 small pieces of kapton tape and stuffed them in the battery + side to keep those bits in place (removing the foam insulator cause I dont know how it handles heat), honestly gravity MIGHT be enough but better to be safe.

I stuck the whole head minus bezel, minus glow tape on the preheater we both have, set to ~200 I think.

Since the heat transfer is bad with Ti and all these connections even at 200 it really wont reflow yet, which is good. Around 190 on preheater I take hot air set to around 385F/19xC and fan speed all the way low and I apply heat from the top. Distance is maybe 4 inches away and I work my way around the LED sometimes going in a bit closer. Since you are removing the LED you could honestly just hold it there but I dont want other pieces to overheat or move. Keep trying to lightly pick up LED with tweezers till it gives in. (*** take a picture before you remove it so you know polarity!!)

To apply new LED it’s similar with one small change to make your life easier:

If solder on board looks good and even and you are using brand new LED then put the smallest dot of solder paste you can with toothpick on all 3 pads of driver. So small you think it wont even do anything (you cant easily squeeze out extra). Optionally you can continue to next step and additionally apply flux paste as well, probably recommended.

If solder on boar looks good and you are using a used LED dont apply any solder paste. Substitute with flux paste. Blob some on a napkin or something then dip your LED in it to cover the bottom. Blot the excess and spread it around with a clean part of the napkin and you should see a nice coating on the underside.

When you go to reflow it the flux paste and/or solder paste sandwiched between the driver and LED will allow the hot air to re-melt the solder even sooner than when you removed it the first time, give it a tap or center it if necessary.

jon_slider
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> I cut 2 small pieces of kapton tape and stuffed them in the battery + side to keep those bits in place

ah, thanks for those details

> I take hot air set to around [200C] and fan speed all the way low and I apply heat from the top. Distance is maybe 4 inches away

very useful details

> using brand new LED then put …Solder Paste …on .. pads of driver.

Like your strategy Thumbs Up

contactcr
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flux and solder paste really make re-flowing easy. kind of have to treat it like any other component. re-flowing on solid copper pcb is nearly foolproof and the extra heat sometimes lets you get away with joining two bits of crusty old solder when you probably shouldn’t. if you clean stuff first and apply flux paste the solder will flow like it’s brand new for several reflows. it’s easier cleaning up the sticky mess it makes after your stuff cools than to try to go without it.

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CRX wrote:

Lumintop Tool AA 2.0 Ti XP-L HI 5A3 – Lxl Anduril – 14500 – Piston Drive – 1050lm.
Lumintop Tool AA 2.0 Ti XP-L HI 5A3 - Lxl Anduril - 14500 - Piston Drive - 1050lm.

"America has three cities, New York, San Francisco and New Orleans. Everywhere else is Cleveland."- Tennessee Williams

 

 

gchart
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Parts finally came in for a full driver build from scratch using an Attiny1616 running Anduril, which I’ve recently ported over to the new 1-Series chips. I have other flashlights running Anduril on a 1-Series but they’re kinda hacked together with adapter boards.

This is a 20mm FET+1 layout. Installed it in a Sofirn SC31B. Somehow the stars aligned and it compiled first try, and when I flashed it, everything worked. I love it when something goes right for once!

sorry, I hadn’t cleaned flux off yet

There’s nothing revolutionary about the driver itself, but now we’ve got a full test model with the 1-Series.

contactcr
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Nice work! Those 3 holes at the bottom are for flashing right? Looks quite roomy.

gchart
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Roomy, yes. Being 20mm I didn’t worry about packing things in. Can easily go 17mm and probably 15mm.

Driver as Oshpark: https://oshpark.com/shared_projects/kUUG3I7M

Programming Key: https://oshpark.com/shared_projects/Nf5s0GMe

That 3 pin key really is nice, so small and those pads can fit anywhere.

JaredM
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So this is potentially a driver that could be wired to a USB charger port for flashing?

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gchart wrote:
Parts finally came in for a full driver build from scratch using an Attiny1616 running Anduril, which I’ve recently ported over to the new 1-Series chips. I have other flashlights running Anduril on a 1-Series but they’re kinda hacked together with adapter boards.

This is a 20mm FET+1 layout. Installed it in a Sofirn SC31B. Somehow the stars aligned and it compiled first try, and when I flashed it, everything worked. I love it when something goes right for once!

sorry, I hadn’t cleaned flux off yet

There’s nothing revolutionary about the driver itself, but now we’ve got a full test model with the 1-Series.


Congratulations gchart, awesome job. I know you been working on this for awhile.
Glad you got everything working as expected, which I knew you would Wink .

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