What did you mod today?

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jon_slider
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New AA Copper Tool mod from Cool White to sw45k

Before:

After:

modding sequence and tutorial

==

Modded a AAA Lumintop Tool head to sw45k and captive reversible hatclip.

Blahblahblahhuh
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Love the copper and the sw45k Love

Blahblahblahhuh
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After completing my first simple C8+ build (w/QLITE REV.A 8*7135 and XPL HI 5D), I wanted to make myself a new EDC light.

After getting my Jaxman E3 it was time to take it apart and fit it with an H17Fx driver, DTP MCPCB, and LH351D!

All the pieces (didn’t take a picture before installing the driver Facepalm ) ready to go! I used a dremel to sand down the inside of the retaining ring to make room for all those 7135s, trying to be careful to leave enough metal around the little grooves in the ring for easy screwing in/out.

I used my fly tying vice to hold the new MCPCB and put a dremel to it on one side to even out where it had been connected to its brethren during fabrication. I had accidentally sanded down the tips of the vise jaws in the process of using the dremel on the retaining ring Facepalm but it worked! I then thought I would use a flat file to thin the DTP MCPCB to make the head assembly easier. I quickly gave up on that idea after 30min of filing and almost no change in thickness. I figured an extra O-ring would save me a lot of labor!

I reflowed the LH351D 5000k 90CRI to the DTP MCPCB, which surprised me by taking much more time than with a thinner aluminum board. But that makes sense. It works!

Soldered the driver to the MCPCB after cleaning and then adding thermal paste. My soldering leaves a lot to be desired at this point. Always room for improvement. In this case, a lot of room!

I had to use a small hand file to make a wider window on the stock butterfly spacer to fit around the new emitter. I then attempted to flat file the spacer to make it less thick. Of course I ended up breaking it expertly. Cool So I grabbed a way larger spacer for a Convoy C8+ reflector and filed down its width and height to get it to fit and keep the reflector away from the LED and solder.

Due to the wonky spacer I ended up using, centering the LED was quite the task. After enlisting your help on the forum and tinkering for a while I finally got it centered “enough.”

The ultimate solution to that problem was a little DC Fix, as I wanted a nice floody beam anyway! It helped with the tint shift and looking at the slightly less than perfect LED centering. You can see the finished light with new(ish) not-quite-deep-carry-but-better-than-stock clip repurposed from an Olight Mini Baton.

Overall, this was a successful first mod and a great learning experience! I ended up swapping in a LH351D in 4000k a few days later for a warmer CCT which I find even more pleasant outside. The H17Fx is also fantastic! I love how customizable it is; I can get lower than 1lm all the way to “why is there so much light” and even make the bike flasher exactly as bright as I’d like. Truly wonderful!

Thanks for all your constant help here, everyone! This is a really wonderful and supportive place. Special thanks to MascaratumB for providing answers and lots support during my endless questioning.

More mods in my future soon!

jon_slider
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Blahblahblahhuh wrote:
I ended up swapping in a LH351D in 4000k a few days later for a warmer CCT which I find even more pleasant outside. The H17Fx is also fantastic! I love how customizable it is; I can get lower than 1lm all the way to “why is there so much light” and even make the bike flasher exactly as bright as I’d like. Truly wonderful!

outstanding first Rodeo!
congratulations Smile
Blahblahblahhuh
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jon_slider wrote:
outstanding first Rodeo! congratulations Smile

Thanks! Big Smile

I’ve been quite inspired by all the dedication and creativity around here. It’s infectious!

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Looks good Blahblahblahhuh! You could get a new LED spacer that will fit your needs with centering. I’ve struggled with this in the past. You can try over and over again to get the LED centered, and eventually with luck it will be close to centered. But with the right spacer, centering is so easy. Kadomain has a great variety of spacers: MISC PARTS.

I’d rather use my flashlight around the house than turn on the lights.

Blahblahblahhuh
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NeutralFan wrote:
Looks good Blahblahblahhuh! You could get a new LED spacer that will fit your needs with centering. I’ve struggled with this in the past. You can try over and over again to get the LED centered, and eventually with luck it will be close to centered. But with the right spacer, centering is so easy. Kadomain has a great variety of spacers: MISC PARTS.

Thanks!

And wow! Those are lots of different spacers! I’ll check those out. The impatient part of me wasn’t going to wait weeks to get them to solve the problem. But the future me will thank you when I order a bunch and avoid this problem altogether.

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I’ve purchased last year copper version of Astrolux C8. It was deep in the drawer until yesterday. I’ve swapped standard BLF Bistro driver and XP-L HI to some more fancy components.

Took L4P 9A driver and Luxeon MZ 3000K bought here and put things together. The whole set creates nice WARM Flashlight. Copper is kind of warm in touch (silky and smooth thread movement). True – heavier than the aluminium, but so much nicer.
Surprisingly Luxeon MZ (4 panel LED) and SMO went together very nicely this time. I like Simon’s new 3030 9mm hole gaskets. They get widened easily and allow to sit reflector deeper which results in more focused beam. In case of MZ it gave not round hotspot but “+” shaped, very unique looking with a functionality of 5050 wide hotspot.

Some pictures below, the housing of copper C8 is eyes pure happiness just by itself Cash Enjoy.

Blahblahblahhuh
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Very nice!

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Some sliced LH351Ds to replace the 2700K and the yucky 6500K SST-20s in a tint ramping Sofirn IF25 :


For reference : SST20 JA3 2700K on the left, LH351D 4000K on the right.

Neutral tint at the extremes and slightly rosy in the middle :

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thefreeman wrote:
Some sliced LH351Ds to replace the 2700K and the yucky 6500K SST-20s in a tint ramping Sofirn IF25 :

That’s awesome! So to be clear you replaced the sst20s with sliced 5000k and sliced 2700k? Or was it 5700K/2700K?

Either way the tint/cct range is awesome

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Thanks, I really like the tint ramping feature, I wish there was some better hosts/driver though, it would be great in something like a D4V2, or maybe a fireflies E07 or E12, with E27A for a large CCT range.

Yes it’s 5000K+2700K, I didn’t have any 5700K at the time, with 5700K or even 6000K (if the tint is good enough) it would have been better, estimation with sliced 5700K :

Crossing the -0.0050 duv mark in the middle.

jon_slider
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Modded Atom AL Mule w sw45 to Aspheric lens, for a more collected beam.

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Nice aspheric

jon_slider
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MtnDon wrote:
Nice aspheric

thank you for the encouragement Smile

I dont like mules, they throw light sideways too much
puts light in my eyes when tailstanding…

all three lights are on, only the mule glares at the camera:

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I have an aspheric I use in the workshop all the time, and a mule I like only for its short physical length and low moonlight mode.

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jon_slider wrote:
Modded Atom AL Mule w sw45 to Aspheric lens, for a more collected beam.

Where did you find the aspheric lens?

I’d like to add one to an old EagTac T25C2 Cool

jon_slider
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the aspheric came from Kaidomain

18mm Optical Glass LED Lamp Lens

I originally thought I would try it on an AA Tool, but quickly discovered that the reflector places the LED too far from the lens. The aspheric lens only works up close to the LED.

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jon_slider wrote:
The beam is not useable w aspheric on top of the glass at reflector distance from the LED.

Ah. Thanks for the insight!

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Blahblahblahhuh wrote:
I then thought I would use a flat file to thin the DTP MCPCB to make the head assembly easier. I quickly gave up on that idea after 30min of filing and almost no change in thickness. I figured an extra O-ring would save me a lot of labor!

Good, straight file works almost as precision ground flat stone – removes protrusions from the surface and leaves it flat. When the surface is already flat, it just slides back and forth without material removal.
Using sandpaper rolled around such a straight file can give some visible improvements in material removal rate.

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Nice mod jon_slider. Smile

Josen for young
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I am looking for a new tester for my flashlight and hope that he will contact me at next second.

One saler on Amazon.
I want to find some copartners who can help me to test my flashlight or other
If you are interested in my products, please feel free to contact me.

This is the link of some products on USA:
https://www.amazon.com/s?me=A2TYRXFYS75OTZ&marketplaceID=ATVPDKIKX0DER

The requires of seeking cooperation is valid for a long time.
Thanks for PM!

jon_slider
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Agro wrote:
Nice mod jon_slider. Smile

thank you
I see you posted a lot of links and info also
very helpful

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Modded few weeks ago but i’m still waiting for Yaijamei optic to show up.

Warrior Mini with 351D 5000K

I have used alu 1mm mcpcb for test but final build will be with CU board sanded down to 1mm thickness due to turbo Amps

WTB Titanium 4sevens 2xAA tube

contactcr
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What’s the best way to sand down a CU board in thickness evenly?

This comes up often but I almost think it’s easier to source a larger 1mm thick CU board and sand down the diameter instead. I thought the smaller Convoy boards were 1mm but according to their store only the 5050 footprint one is 16*1.0mm

I guess I should not disregard kiriba-ru as if I didn’t see his suggestion about using sandpaper wrapped file. I guess my question is then how to keep it even if that’s the best way. Rotate 1/8 or 1/4 turn for every few passes?

id30209
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Yeah, rotate every pass and even then it won’t be even Sad

Only good thermal paste helps using this method or if the host is copper or brass, soldering directly to the shelf.

WTB Titanium 4sevens 2xAA tube

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Parallelism or flatness? Flatness can be achieved but parallelism is hard with hand tools. I’ve done it to a noctigon before using wd40 and 80/120/300/800 sandpaper. I double-sided tape in a few spots to secure the paper to a piece of thick glass, and soldered a copper rivet (misc parts bin) to the thermal pad to get a grip on it, and about 45 minutes later I had reduced it to about 1mm and it was pretty darn flat. Due to the heat buildup, I actually drilled a blind hole in a thick dowel rod and used that as an insulator. This was years ago so no pics sorry

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Get a SS washer the thickness that you want the Cu star to be, drop it inside (bore out the hole if probably needed), then sand/grind away. SS is harder than Cu, won’t wear away as fast as Cu, so you could probably grind down the Cu to that thickness without going too much thinner.

09 F9 11 02 9D 74 E3 5B D8 41 56 C5 63 56 88 C0

contactcr
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Going to try to sneak in my other hobby.

Flashed a smart plug (Sonoff S31) to use open source local firmware to control some (flickering LED Sick ) Christmas lights:

Solder jumper wires to USB to Serial adapter to flash ESP8266 chip

Flash and setup device, web page is the local device IP with all configuration options. No more phoning home to the “cloud” and works instantly with my home automation (Home Assistant) running on raspberry pi.

Costco LED garland the wife really wanted hooked up to re-assembled plug. My 3yo daughter asked “why does it blink like that?” I guess she is already one of us.. Facepalm

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Time to gut the driver on that garland Wink

Maybe bring along the little one along for a lesson Smile

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